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RE: <span class= - 12/23/2003 10:26 PM   
jetfreak



Posts: 442
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Joined: 12/27/2001
Last Login: 11/27/2012
From: Tomball, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Geistware

ya...at first i thought it was a lil excessive to....But i pulled the motor off and my mounts. Then i just laid the motor and the standoffs onthe firewall and it looked about the same.....they are pretty even......That is just how much thrust is built into the firewall.

Thanks
Sean

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XMAS - 12/25/2003 8:33 AM   
jetfreak



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From: Tomball, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Well xmas is over and this is what i have to show for it.......

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RE: XMAS - 12/25/2003 8:34 AM   
jetfreak



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From: Tomball, TX, USA
Status: offline 		last one

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RE: XMAS - 12/25/2003 4:08 PM   
Geistware



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From: Locust Grove, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Well, I have the motor mounted, the servos installed and the horns mounted. After we have Christmas this morning, I will hinge the rudder and install the receiver and all the linkage for the tail section. I still have to sand on the wing tube. I found to my dismay, that one wing socket is smaller that the other, and chance had it that I took my wing with the bigger wing socket to work to sand it down to fit. From a balance check, it looks good. About 2 inches ahead of the wing tube without the receiver battery installed. The receiver battery will go on the rudder tray I also may have to fatten my pilot up so that he supplies a little aft weight!

A Saturday flight is still lookin good if I don't decide to fly my Patty with the new engine.

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RE: <span class= - 12/25/2003 10:50 PM   
rthorne


 

Posts: 331
Score: 100
Joined: 1/18/2002
Last Login: 5/9/2013
From: Amarillo, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Jetfreak:

How are the linkages on the DA-50, are they setup and ready to hook up control rods or is there some engineering to do?
The DA-100 was ready to go (other than the choke).

If you can take a picture of the carb showing the throttle and choke linkage, it would be helpful.

Thanks in advance.

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Rich Thorne
Amarillo, TX
ARS: N5ZC
AMA: N5ZC

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RE: <span class= - 12/26/2003 12:05 AM   
splais


 

Posts: 3308
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Last Login: 5/19/2013
From: Yuma, AZ, USA
Status: online 		rthorne,

The DA50 will hook up fine. Needed no alterations for throttle or choke. I used Sullivan ball links on the existing throttle/choke arms. If you go to my TF P-51 ARF review in the User Product Review forum you can see a picture of it. I would post it, but I'm not at home.

One thing. Before you install the engine you need to remove the choke arm and dump out the spring and ball that provides an excessive amount of tension to the servo. I have't done it on my P-51 yet, the servo still works the choke fine. But one of these days when I demount the engine I will do it.

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       Post #: 56

DA-50 Install - 12/28/2003 12:08 AM   
Abraxxas



Posts: 342
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Joined: 5/2/2003
Last Login: 8/22/2011
From: Plover, WI, USA
Status: offline 		Here are a couple of pics and some info on how I installed my DA-50...

The standoffs are 2.5" DA parts and my spacer blocks are 1" X 4.25" X 3/4" thick birch plywood (three 1/4" pieces laminated together with 30 minute epoxy). I clamped the spacers to the motor box then clamped the engine to them with mini slide-bar clamps going from the standoff mounting ear on the engine to inside the motor box, the small slide-bar clamps were small enough to allow me to install the cowl with them on to get the alignment correct. Just clamped them loose enough to allow me to tweak alignment with the cowl on, once correct I removed the cowl, tightened the clamps and traced the standoff end placement on to the blocks and the spacer block placement on to the firewall with a pen, then removed it all. Then I used a 1/4" flat washer centered in the traceout to mark the 1/4" hole in the center (good idea from a previous post) and drilled them on a drillpress, then place the blocks back on the firewall, set the engine on the blocks, lined up the trace lines on the standoffs and the spacer to firewall lines, clamped in place, lifted off the engine and drilled the firewall using the blocks as drill guides. After that I attached the engine with 1.5" long 1/4-20 stainless bolts and washers, all worked pretty nicely. The slit on the bottom of the cowl was required to get it on over the exhaust, I am going to make a small plywood joiner for the slit and use two small hex-head cap screws on either half to fasten the halves of the slit together once the cowl is installed.

Brian

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       Post #: 57

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