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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 1/20/2011 9:21 PM   
Big_Bird



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Status: offline 		Welcome to the thread Dave. That is an interesting upgrade you have started. Please keep us posted.

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 1/25/2011 11:58 AM   
fredo



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Status: offline 		Guys,I have a question for you. I'm in a process of rigging flywires but found that it's quite tricky to do it on a uncovered wings. They can warp or twist easily as you try to put tension. Personally I would like to have them covered so they are stiffer.
I have made the front wing connection bars but not the rear ones as that can hugely affect the incidences. What is the best method of doing this?
Thanks

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 1/25/2011 2:57 PM   
Big_Bird



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Status: offline 		If you put the outer wing struts on with the X bracing the wings will get pretty stiff torsionally. Then start to rig the flying wires. Make an incidence meter your best friend.

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 2/14/2011 4:36 PM   
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Status: offline 		Took a few pics of my landing gear strut fairings I worked on this weekend. The real airplane has the ribs free floating around the brace strut, but I thought it might not be a strong enough method for a model. So I used 1/8" plywood between the strut and brace and to form the trailing edge.

Half ribs are some ply and lite ply with balsa filler at top and bottom. Wrapped some fiberglass tape around the main strut and a slot in the ply so hopefully the ply will stay put.

Covered with Sig Koverall.

Now just need to make the brackets to mount the gear to the bottom of the airplane and see how it works.

Dave

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 2/22/2011 3:35 PM   
dabrown



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Status: offline 		30 percent Jungmeister.

Got the landing gear assembled and mounted on the airplane. Using a piece of 1/2" plywood as surrogate for the wing since this model has a one-piece wing.

The gear seems to function correctly although right now the struts are extended a bit more than scale. But I think that's better than having them bottom out.

Also made the cockpit door for the right side. Used sheet alum. and a nail set to make some rivets. Non-functional...

Now am looking for any inputs on how to make an exhaust collector ring. I have a Bob Diveley dummy 7 cylinder engine which should work OK but I notice the most prominent thing you see when looking at the engine is that exhaust collector and the pipes running to the cylinder heads. Thought about making it out of balsa but not sure how to do the pipes....

Dave

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/15/2011 10:22 PM   
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Fellas, These are some great looking Bucker Jungmeisters!  I build 1/4 scale Stearmans and am getting back into the hobby after a ten yr. break.  Recovering a stock two aileron job and hanging a "new" old air hobbies twin on my 4 aileron "super stearman"  Will be back in the air soon.  Again, enjoyed looking at everyones models!   Joe



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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/15/2011 10:28 PM   
Big_Bird



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Status: offline 		Joe, welcome to the thread. When you find time why not build this model? You won't find a vintage biplane that flies better.

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/16/2011 3:52 PM   
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Status: offline 		Big_Bird, Yes, the Jungmiester is a wonderful airplane!  Definately in "my hangar of desires".  Honestly, though, I need to get my  25% Stearman projects back up and going!   I have plans for these & more are lurking in the attic!  Joe

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/21/2011 5:37 AM   
fredo



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Status: offline 		Hi folks
I haven't put any progress of my build here for a long time. My Bucker was originally geared up to house Moki 150 but a long ongoing fight to get this engine from SLengines ended up in near disaster where I would loose all money with no engine in hands.
Fortunately partner of this crook decided to do the right thing and send me one of his 150cc (used to be SL-150 now called PRM-150) Sure it's a pretty thing and runs well too. The only problem is it's a bit heavier than Moki 150 but despite of it's heaviness after all my preliminary calculations my final weight should be about 16kg. For a 2.3m wingspan I don't think it's too bad. I also had to modify the firewall as the mounting of this motor is different from Moki.
I'm planning to build a cowless version. There's quite a few challenges to overcome but I'm getting there. Here are a few pics.

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/22/2011 3:50 PM   
450strmn


 

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Status: offline 		That's a great looking engine!  ..and model.  150cc should deliver plenty of ump!  Anyone seen the 90cc engine on authenticscale.com site?  It turns a 27X14 prop.  That would max out the ground clearance on my 25% stearmans.  They weigh just under 9 pounds (my airhobbies 5cubic inch twin weighs just under 7)  Authentic scale says they are soon to produce a 50cc 5 cyl.  might look more like a Siemens and give a scale amount of power and turn a 24 in prop. 

Is the Bucker built from Gary Allen plans?  Thanks, Joe

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/22/2011 4:10 PM   
450strmn


 

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Status: offline 		Also, here are a few photos from my bucker collection.  these are full scale, original airfoil.  note the "flat bottom" airfoil that the fabulous Frank Price modified on his infamous "Texas Buckers" to more of a semi-semetrical naca 23012.  I believe this is the same airfoil Sam Burgess Bucker was built to.  Joe

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/24/2011 12:02 AM   
fredo



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Status: offline 		Yes, that is from Gary Allen plans but have been scaled up to 35%.
Your wings look beautiful. Are you building the whole thing?

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/24/2011 5:37 PM   
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Status: offline 		No, I DID NOT build these.  Those are some photos of wings a guy in France builds.  I built a full scale Super Emeraude, and that took me ten years!  Those Bucker wings are something I wanted to look at, though.  Thinking maybe...someday...The photos of the jig tables used to build them are amazing....work, work, work!   It would be best just to have a set built!  The hardware, the plywood for the leading edges...etc.  Hour after hour of highly skilled labor.  $$$!  Joe

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/25/2011 7:02 AM   
fredo



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Status: offline 		I always wanted to tackle something like that but too many obstacles to overcome. Ideally, if you have loads of money, adequate space, lots of spare time and a very understanding wife. Time wouldn't bother me.
I was helping my friend to build full scale RV-4. ....lot of riveting and jig building. His was one of the first kits released, where you had to build everything right from the scratch. These days most parts come prebuild.
Me personally, I like wooden structures. I think it's easier to work with.

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/25/2011 11:12 PM   
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Status: online 		Fredo,
Can you give us a little more info on the engine, I did a search for PRM-150 and I cannot find anything? I have just the plane in mind for that engine. What is the approx cost and where to buy?
Thanks!!
Anthony

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/26/2011 8:16 AM   
fredo



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Status: offline 		Hi Anthony
The company is Italian and the guy's name is Diego Lazzarini. You can try to contact him on diego@meccanicaprm.it
To my knowledge, at the moment he is doing some improvements on the engine so he is not advertising yet. It's a small company and everything is done by one person.
The engine runs on petrol and costs 2300 Euro without exhaust ring.

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/26/2011 10:05 PM   
WacoNut



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Status: online 		Thanks!!!
That is not a bad price for such an engine. I will have to wait untilI get the plans for my plane and see if the engine will be a good fit.
Anthony

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/30/2011 3:36 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Anthony,

We just got back from Tahiti. Had a great time. I see you are asking about the radial. Are you planning another model? How is the Hatz bipe coming?

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/31/2011 12:12 AM   
WacoNut



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Status: online 		Hi Ken,
Glad you guys had a nice trip. I am sure the weather was much better than anything around here.

I am looking at a new model. I have ordered plans from Henry Haffke for his 25% Gee Bee model Y. I am considering blowing it up to 33% just to make it more interesting. The Hatz is on hold due to other issues and I will send you an e-mail about that one.
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 3/31/2011 4:04 PM   
dabrown



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Status: offline 		Been making slow progress on my 30 percent Jungmeister. During some really crappy weather I spent some time trying to lay out an exhaust collector. Don't know if it will post correctly, but here is a drawing I did in AutoSketch then pasted into MS Word. The dimensions are full scale.

OK, that didn't work. I'll try making it a jpg.

My plan is to make the ring out of balsa/ply and come up with something for the pipes. Some sort of flexible plastic tubing. 1/2" and 3/4" dia. for my 0.3 scale.

Dave

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 4/18/2011 4:13 AM   
bunsen



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The last few months I have spent some time adding a few scale details to the 29% Bucker U 79 (Gary Allen 33 % reduced plans) that was finished last spring and I had posted some pictures from the field.  The sort of things that wanted to do last year but ran out of time before the flying season.

Posted a few pictures below relative to:
1. Cockpit documents on the side access hatches. 
2. Fuel guage that is prominant on the front of the fuselage.  Made from Plastruct clear and styrene tubing.
3. Added N-Strut fake leather boots following the pictures from Big_Bird. 
4. The Pitot Tube on the left wing. Made it from brass tubing and brass strip that was soldered together.  The fake tubing to the strut  is solid aluminum rod.
5. Fake push rod covers at the rear of the fuselage.  Vacumn formed from 0.030 Styrene sheet plastic on  my small vacumn form fixture.
6. Fake radial engine.  Made from Balsa/ply, Williams Brothers cylinders and Plastruct ABS tube with 90/45 tubing angles.  Painted the exhaust ring and the exhaist below the cowl with Tamiya AS-12  Bare-Metal Silver which was the closest I could fine to simulate the Stainless Steel that is used on U-79. The Cylinders were sprayed with Black Klasskote and the Blue for the crankcase is acrylic paint from a craft store.  Sprayed the whole thing with Klass Kote Clear.  The fake radial is a pretty tight fit around the MOKI 210.  It came out a little heavier than I would have wanted, about 10 oz, but I had extra lead up front to balance it anyways which I removed so was sort of a wash. I checked the balance afterwards with the Vanessa rig and is slightly nose heavy which is what it was before.

Offer some picture below.

Really appreciate the posts to this thread that kept me going.  :-) 

Ray




 



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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 4/18/2011 5:51 AM   
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Status: offline 		bunsen,

The details are great and look real good. Nice job on the exhaust and the colors are good on the engine.

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 4/18/2011 4:09 PM   
dabrown



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Status: offline 		Great work Ray,

Everything you did is outstanding. i've done some of them fuel gauge and pitot tube. Ha, I did my pitot tube back in 1988 and all I had to go by was a three-view drawing. No photos, no internet back then. So it's not right and I may fix later.

Right now I'm still repairing structural wing and fuselage mouse damage but almost done with that. Now need to get back to the cowl and dummy engine. Your exhaust collector looks great.

Mine is U-60 and the exhaust will probably be more like a rust/brown color.

What is your source for the plastruct material? I spent about 15 minutes searching the Plastruct site and Tower, etc. but didn't hit the 90 and 45 elbows.

Dave

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 4/18/2011 4:41 PM   
Big_Bird



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Status: offline 		Ray, that is very nice detail work. A plane to be proud of.

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RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister - 4/19/2011 2:17 AM   
bunsen



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Status: offline 		Thanks guys. 

Dave

Plastruct web site is:  www.plastruct.com

You can download the catalog as a PDF file which runs 152 pages.  Online ordering is a pain unless you know what you want.

They have several versions of Butyrate tubing fittings on pages 34 and 35 of the catalog in various diameters.
For example 90 degree Elbow for size 12 tubing  is E-12, 45 degree elbow is EL-12.  Have various configurations.
THe tubing itself can be found on page 20 such as TB-12 which is white.

I find that the Plastruct Bondene cement works best for me. 

Tubing cleans well with Alcohol.  Lacquer thinner tends to soften up the surface. 

Attached a couple of pictures of the exhaust collector in primer and a view of the rear of the cylinders.   I was worried about mounting the fake engine to the MOKI but have run the engine for a while and nothing feel off.... yet.....  at least.

What I did for making the engine was to enlarge several close up front views of the BU-133 engine at the Fantesy Of Flight in Florida I took a while back to model size and they sort of used that as a guide.  That combined with some engine shots of the full size U79 engine both in the cowl and without the cowling was helpful.

By the way if you use epoxy to attach the tubing to the balsa/ply ring make sure that you roughen up the surface of the tubing well and get plenty of epoxy into the middle of the tubing to hold it well.  Don't ask me how I know......

I used the same type of tubing for the intake manifold on a 1/4 scale Albatros several years ago and it has held up well. 

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Ray



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