RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (Full Version)

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gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/24/2004 8:13 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli


1) How did you "connect" the internal flexible antenna and the external rigid antenna?

Anthony


I used a 1/8" dia. X 1/2" L nut & bolt available at your local hobby shop.
Splice the end if the "soft antenna" by 1/2" to expose the copper core. Twist this part and wrap it around the bottom part of the 1/8" dia. bolt & "secure it to the bottom part of the hull with the lock washer & nut that goes with the bolt. (pls refer to the 1st pic.)
To seal off corrosion from pond/ swimming pool water, apply silicone sealant (automotive) to the nut. (pls. refer to the 2nd pic.)



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/24/2004 8:32 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli


2) Is the external rigid antenna now susceptible to rusting from the chlorine in a pool?

Anthony


Nope, the "wire antenna" I used on this mod is made of stainless steel. Very thin, but corrosion resistant.



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/24/2004 8:48 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli


3) Does the external rigid antenna create any drag IF USED WITH THE STOCK PROP?

Anthony


I really can't say, I never liked the "stock" prop. Too small, plus it's INSIDE the sub's body. [:o] Here, have a look and compare the "stock" prop & the TRAXXAS prop I used for my mod.



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/24/2004 9:09 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli

4) The "additional sealant" you suggest... do you mean replace existing seals with something better or actually adding sealant? And what sort of sealant did you use?

Anthony


I used automotive "silicone type" sealant. Add this to the "joints " of the "sealed" plastic motor casings or housings. ( Pls. refer to the pics.) This is just an added safety measure IF you are planning to take this sub way past it's recommended operating depth of 3.5 feet. This is NOT a "must do" procedure & is the sub owner's OPTION.



analli -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/24/2004 9:16 PM)

Thanks VERY much. Outstanding work!



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/24/2004 9:22 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli

4) The "additional sealant" you suggest... do you mean replace existing seals with something better or actually adding sealant? And what sort of sealant did you use?

Anthony


Here's a few more areas where I would recommend the silicone sealant.



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/24/2004 9:39 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli

4) The "additional sealant" you suggest... do you mean replace existing seals with something better or actually adding sealant? And what sort of sealant did you use?

Anthony


And a few more ...... the 1st pic. is the joints on the sub's "dive" & "surface" motor. The 2nd pic. is the joints on the sub's " sealed" receiver box or module.



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/24/2004 9:59 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli

Thanks VERY much. Outstanding work!


You're welcome! Don't forget to add styrofoam material IF you plan to mod the stock prop. You will also need it when you mod the antenna. Here, have a look:



analli -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/24/2004 11:33 PM)

quote:

Don't forget to add styrofoam material IF you plan to mod the stock prop. You will need it when you mod the antenna.


I don't mean to keep buggin' ya, but yoo certainly da man! I can see why you'd add styrofoam with the prop mod with the change in the center of gravity (or something), but why add foam for the antenna mod? Would that not make the rear of the sub too buoyant?

Oh, FYI, the reason I want to stick with the stock prop is that I see subs as slow moving, so tossing this baby in my pool I don't want to see it zipping around. That's why I didn't get a one of those boats. As long as the stock prop propells the sub reasonably. I think I'll be happy. (I just got the subs two days ago and haven't even seen them in action yet). Does my rationale seem reasonable or is the prop mod a must-do?



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/25/2004 12:10 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli

I don't mean to keep buggin' ya, but yoo certainly da man! I can see why you'd add styrofoam with the prop mod with the change in the center of gravity (or something), but why add foam for the antenna mod? Would that not make the rear of the sub too buoyant?



[:D] LOL , I'm just here trading ideas. I don't mind the Q's . I think this toy can can DO MORE than it was designed to do.
You will need just a SMALL amount of styrofoam material when you mod the sub's receiver antenna. The sub's CG (Center of Gravity) is now toward the REAR of the sub. That 1/8' dia. X 1/2" L nut & bolt plus that 1/32" dia. X 11.5 " L stainless steel "wire" antenna does affect this sub's buoyancy. Balancing this sub with ALL the mods I made took a good 2 hrs. of trial & error with the tiny weights that came with this RTR sub kit.



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/25/2004 12:26 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli

Oh, FYI, the reason I want to stick with the stock prop is that I see subs as slow moving, so tossing this baby in my pool I don't want to see it zipping around. That's why I didn't get a one of those boats. As long as the stock prop propells the sub reasonably. I think I'll be happy. (I just got the subs two days ago and haven't even seen them in action yet). Does my rationale seem reasonable or is the prop mod a must-do?


Your rationale is valid. As long as you don't take the sub near the suction ports of your pool's filter pumps you'll be doing just fine.
Otherwise, you'll have to dive in or scoop up the sub with the pool cleaning pole when the underwater currents pull it in. That's why I decided to mod the stock prop.

gulfstreamI



tsunami -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/25/2004 7:29 AM)

did anyone try to use a aero bird batt yet its my only sub 9v recarge batt and ive got two da boot wiating to be use (okay ones in my other wall mart custum). thanx for all the seal help ill take a pic when i think its worthy and get my $2 digi cam working.id love the deisal sub conversion stuff (grandfather was in one)



turbulus -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/28/2004 1:02 AM)

for those who cannot find a different prop or just dont want to, you can use the same one. Just extend the prop shaft. All you need to do is use a the ink tube from a pen and cut in half. It is a little messy to get all the ink out but it nothing a little rubbing alcohol cant handle. The pen I used had a brass ball point holder which fit almost perfectly on the prop. The prop now sticks out of the stern of the sub like it should. It did not affect the trim too much either, didnt even have to mess with my weights. The thing cuts through the water nicely. I did notice the sub tilt a little bit when the prop spins, but not too much. I would like to put another prop however, only because the existing one does not look like a sub prop. I will try to send a pic later.



analli -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/28/2004 1:09 AM)

I'm having trouble finding one of those "rubber duckie" antennas anywhere. I've checked that product number and browsed the Radio Shack website as well as my local store. No luck! [:o]



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/28/2004 2:30 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli

I'm having trouble finding one of those "rubber duckie" antennas anywhere. I've checked that product number and browsed the Radio Shack website as well as my local store. No luck! [:o]


Have you tried http://www.radioshack.ca? The website for Radio Shack in the U.S. does not have a spare part support link.
The "rubber ducky" antenna is from a 2003 r/c controller unit of an r/c truck called the "Raminator" made by Radio Shack. The product # 60-4357. Click on "need a part?" The other alternative is the 2002 Radio Shack product called the "Carnivore" # 60-4328. The r/c controllers of these two products use THE SAME "rubber ducky" type antenna.

gulfstreamI



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/28/2004 2:50 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: turbulus

for those who cannot find a different prop or just dont want to, you can use the same one. Just extend the prop shaft. All you need to do is use a the ink tube from a pen and cut in half. It is a little messy to get all the ink out but it nothing a little rubbing alcohol cant handle. The pen I used had a brass ball point holder which fit almost perfectly on the prop. The prop now sticks out of the stern of the sub like it should. It did not affect the trim too much either, didnt even have to mess with my weights. The thing cuts through the water nicely. I did notice the sub tilt a little bit when the prop spins, but not too much. I would like to put another prop however, only because the existing one does not look like a sub prop. I will try to send a pic later.


The original multi-blade sub prop that you might be interested in is available from a u.k. r/c modeler website. I'm just not too happy spending $ 10 -$15 plus shipping & tax for a brass prop to put on a toy that costs only $20 [&o]. The prop that I used in my mod does cause my sub to tilt to the right. This mod gave my sub that "crash dive" capability by just pressing the "forward" control button. Hope to see your pic(s) when your done.

gulfstreamI



tsunami -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/28/2004 3:33 AM)

instead of routing the stainless antena trough the back run it up the old antena location and solder a 1ft soft antena extension. i got maybe 150+ ft surface range. i cant wiat to get to a pool or lake to see how its runs in open water now.



analli -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/28/2004 3:59 AM)

Does anyone have any information on the PRE-MOD specs for the sub are? Our resident guru has already posted these POST-MOD specs:

quote:

Modified Wal-Mart Sub spec: Operating range 40 to 50 feet (on surface)

........................................ Max Diving depth 6-7 feet ( in swimming pool water)

........................................ Max speed (submerged) with modified TRAXXAS prop #1534 , ... 50-55 feet per min.

........................................ Sub power source: Four AA 1.2 Volt Ni Mh 2300 mAh


I am wondering how these figures approximately compare to the sub WITHOUT mods.



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/28/2004 4:07 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: tsunami

instead of routing the stainless antena trough the back run it up the old antena location and solder a 1ft soft antena extension. i got maybe 150+ ft surface range. i cant wiat to get to a pool or lake to see how its runs in open water now.


How about some pics? [:)] If you plan to run your sub in a pond, be careful of underwater obstacles.
I almost lost my sub today. I ran into those "hydra" weeds growing from the bottom. You can't easily see them from the surface.
My prop got tangled in them & my sub got stuck 1 ft. below the surface of the water. The pond was 6 ft. deep & I'm not happy diving in after it. [:o]
I had to send in my "recovery" sub to help push it out. I used my other mini-sub from Radio Shack called the "Mako".

gulfstreamI



tsunami -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/28/2004 4:37 AM)

actually its more like a slow stream but ya thanx for the tip also im worried about the gar in their. im trying to waste film so i can get a cd made and post em (mybe i should take a few more pics of my biuld area)
hope fully soon ill get it done.



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (3/28/2004 4:46 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: analli

Does anyone have any information on the PRE-MOD specs for the sub are? Our resident guru has already posted these POST-MOD specs:

quote:

Modified Wal-Mart Sub spec: Operating range 40 to 50 feet (on surface)

........................................ Max Diving depth 6-7 feet ( in swimming pool water)

........................................ Max speed (submerged) with modified TRAXXAS prop #1534 , ... 50-55 feet per min.

........................................ Sub power source: Four AA 1.2 Volt Ni Mh 2300 mAh


I am wondering how these figures approximately compare to the sub WITHOUT mods.


analli,

The 50 to 55 ft/ min surface speed was based on 3 runs that my buddy & I did with the Radio shack twin motor "Mako" mini-sub VS a mod Wal mart sub. Their approximate surface speeds were roughly the same. The spec for speed of the Radio Shack mini-sub (on the owner's manual) is 50 ft / min.

The power source I'm recommending 1.2 V(2300 mAh) is to increase the sub's RUNTIME. The rechargeable alkaline batteries 1.5V drains flat in approximately 20- 25min of sustained use.

The recommended max depth for the Motor works sub is indicated in the owner's manual: BEST OPERATING DEPTH - The Submarine works best at 1 meter. (approximately 3 to 4 feet) depth. Do not dive the submarine below this depth.

The operating range with the mod receiver antenna on the sub (40-50 feet) was based on 3 test runs my buddy & I did with a "stock" Wal mart sub VS a mod Wal mart sub.
I used fully charged NiMh batteries of the same mAH rating on both subs.
Like all r/c toys this sub's operating range drops as the batteries on the sub & the sub controller start to run flat. I have three Wal mart subs to tinker with as I try to figure out what mod works best for a particular use.

gulfstreamI



Sypro -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (4/5/2004 12:06 AM)

Slap a 540 motor in one with a esc and as many cells you can cram in there. That would be cool, i bet it would do like 25, 30



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (4/18/2004 9:16 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: Sypro

Slap a 540 motor in one with a esc and as many cells you can cram in there. That would be cool, i bet it would do like 25, 30


Good idea! [:D] Sorry I can't put in the 540 motor & an upgraded ESC [:o] . But I did figure out how to cram in those extra cells and get MORE POWER to the sub's 3 drive motors.
As you can see the stock battery tray limits the sub's power to only 4 AA batteries. If extra speed is what you're after then pls. refer to the 2nd pic.
Remove the 2 small srews to open this terminal compartment. There are 3 wires, BLACK, GREEN & RED. (3rd pic.)
Note: Use a 25-40 watt desoldering iron for this task. Desolder the RED wire from it's terminal & resolder it with the GREEN wire terminal. (4th pic) The GREEN wire supplies the power to the sub's receiver. Be careful when doing this... you may burn your fingers or melt critical plastic in the battery compartment!
The RED wire is the POWER terminal for the sub's 3 drive motors! The stock wire set up LIMITS the supply voltage to the motors to only 4.0 volts ( if you are using 4 X 1.2 V batts.) & 4.5 volts ( if you are using 4 X 1.5 V batts.) The wiring re-configuration done here boosts the power supply to the sub's motors to 6.0 Volts.
If you're still not happy with this ... pls. refer to my next post below. [:D]



gulfstreamI -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (4/18/2004 9:59 PM)

This is how I crammed in those extra batteries. I bought two pcs. of a AAA X 3 battery holder from the local Radio Shack store. Cut off the edges of the battery holder with a Dremel Tool micro-disc cutter & glue them together with superglue. Re-configure the battery holder wiring in SERIES so that the total combined voltage is 7.2 volts. I insulated the soldered connection with a piece of 1/8" silicone fuel hose (3rd pic.) This sub's power source is now at 7.2 volts, 700 mah with the AAA batteries. The small piece of stryofoam is used to keep the battery tray from sliding forward during the sub's dive & help keep the C.G. from shifting. (4th pic) Solder the negative (black) & positive (red) wires to the contact plates in the sub's battery compartment. Pls. refer to the 4th pic. in my previous post.



tsunami -> RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! (4/18/2004 10:13 PM)

wow this has turned into one heck of a article. now we need torpedos ^_^



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