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Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 1/4/2004 6:29 AM   
XJet


 

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From: Tokoroa, , NEW ZEALAND
Status: offline 		When I bought a Hitec Eclipse 7-channel transmitter a while back (with the Specturm module) I found that they only seem to come in Mode 2 configuration (throttle on the left). Now in this part of the world most people (including myself) fly Mode 1 (throttle on the right).

On enquiring, I was told that a mode change was something that could not be done outside of a certified Hitec service center -- which would have meant sending the damned thing back to the USA -- with freight charges that would have almost cost as much as the transmitter was worth and would have completely negated the savings made buy purchasing a lower-cost unit.

So, I simply hoisted the back off and changed the mode myself. Of course, having a few decades of professional electronics experience behind me didn't hurt.

Now, having done the job, I'm considering writing a simple "DIY mode-change" guide for others who might find theselves in the same situation as me.

Despite the claims of Hitec, it is quite practical for anyone with average dexterity and the ability to follow simple instructions, to perform this change in a single evening -- so if anyone want's those step-by-step illustrated instructions just let me know and I'll format them up into a webpage or two (or PDF) and post them to the Net.

For what it's worth, if Hitec had spent just $0.02 on extra parts and some slightly longer leads, the conversion would be as easy as it is on most other transmitters. However, because they appear to have been more than a little tight-fisted (surprising when you consider their excellent reputation for value and support), the task is a little more infolved than any other gear I've worked on.

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RE: <span class= - 1/8/2004 5:14 AM   
dclittle


 

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From: Vilonia, AR, USA
Status: offline 		I also have a Hitec Eclipse and have considered changing the mode. Other than swapping leads to the stick pots, trims and moving the ratchet mechanism over is there anything else? The trims are digital and without looking inside the radio I would assume it is nothing more than a SPDT momentary switch with three wire (just like the stick pot).

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RE: <span class= - 1/8/2004 11:59 PM   
XJet


 

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From: Tokoroa, , NEW ZEALAND
Status: offline 		For some reason, known only to Hitec but probably related to pricing, there are three pins, a spring, a lever-arm and the ratchet arm which must all be swapped between stick units when changing mode.

We're talking about $0.05 worth of components here and goodness knows why they didn't simply set up both gimblals so that the mode could be changed simply by simply shifting the spring and swapping the PCB connectors -- this would have produced a no-soldering, no disassembly mode change capability much like other transmitters have.

Unfortunately however, the leads are too short to simply simply swap around the PCB plugs and you have to disassemble both stick units in order to swap the pins over. You also have to extend the wiring that connects the pots to the PCB connector.

So, it's a little more work than normal -- but there's no rocket science involved.

I've had a couple of people request details so I'll throw my pictures and step-by-step instructions onto a webpage and post the URL.

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RE: <span class= - 2/8/2004 7:03 PM   
Taylorcraft_ASEL


 

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From: Lake Dallas, TX, USA
Status: offline 		When I converted my Futaba 8U to mode1, all that was required was to swap the ratchet and spring on the gimbals. Futaba has a menu selectable software change which then puts the trims, dual rates, etc. in their proper places. No movement of wires was required. Is the Hitec not this simple? I am considering purchase of the Eclipse, but if modification is a hassle, I'll buy another Futaba.

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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 2/9/2004 12:22 AM   
XJet


 

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From: Tokoroa, , NEW ZEALAND
Status: offline 		Yes, most other computer radios allow you to do the mode switch simply by changing the relevant stick gymbals between rachet and spring-center then using a menu option to change the channel positions -- but I fear the Eclipse doesn't offer such luxuries.

However, when you consider that mode changes are probably only ever going to be done once in the entire life of the transmitter, I guess that's not such a big issue (unless you live half a world way from Hitec USA and fly Mode 1 that is :-)

Maybe they were pushed for space in the ROM that holds the computer routines and decided to leave such a facility out - or maybe they just figured that everyone flies mode 2 so why worry :-)

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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 2/9/2004 6:37 AM   
3DFanatic


 

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From: Tacoma, WA, USA
Status: offline 		I love where the manual talks about Mode I "If you do not know what this means, than you do not have to worry about it"

_____________________________

-Aaron
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RE: <span class= - 7/12/2005 10:40 PM   
coliin


 

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Status: offline 		Did you ever get round to writing up the mode change intructions, XJet? I find myself in the opposite situation to you - I have a mode 1 transmitter and would like to switch it to mode 2.

I'm happy to open it up, but advice from somebody who has been there before would certainly be invaluable.

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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 9/16/2005 3:26 PM   
DELBOYDEKA


 

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From: West Mids, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		I've got this problem too. Just joined a club in the UK & they all fly mode 1 & the Hitec radio gear I've just bought in set to mode 2(doh!). I'd be gratefull for any instructions on how to change. Surley there's a Hitec service centre in the UK that could do the change? Anybody know of any.

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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 9/18/2005 2:50 AM   
Javier Garcia


 

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From: BadajozBadajoz, SPAIN
Status: offline 		There is another way:
In the main PCb board there are two connector bridges. YOu must to unscrew the PCB, look for them, they are green, they are together, and invert the position, each one in ITS other position (in you interchange betwen them, you wil not get anything). This way you change software and trims.
Of course, you also have to change the rachet and spring. It is not complicated.

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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 10/8/2005 10:20 PM   
coliin


 

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Status: offline 		The Hitec website has a list of international distributors - http://www.hitecrcd.com/Support/DISTRIBUTOR%20LIST2.pdf

For the UK, it's Amerang. They advise me that the cost is £20 including return postage, which doesn't seem too bad - just getting round to sending mine in. Since yours is mode 2 and mine's mode 1, it's almost tempting to do a swap ;-)

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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 1/26/2006 11:18 PM   
mrfixitwhite


 

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Status: offline 		i to have one of these in mode 1 and would like to change to 2
i really am a noob at this! but not (too)thick! so i can follow directions!! so any helpful advice would be gr8t!
swapping the connector bridges sounds easy enough though
dont spose you would have a picture of the parts you mean?
and does it mean to turn them round where they are and reconnect or swap each side AND turn them round?

thanks

UPDATE*
i contacted UK hitec and they advised me it was £15! or to phone them and they would run through it on the phone with me!!

UPDATE **
all changed,really easy actually!
Javier was nearly there
All i needed to do was remove battery
undo the 6 screws
undo the 5 screws on the large PCB and turn it over
on there are 2 sets of paired jumpers
for BOTH sets change them across to the other pins so if pins are 123 and jumper is on 23 change to 12
do this for all 4 jumpers
that changes the software
then you need to change the rachet and springs over
you need to dismantle the Gimbals(i think thats wot their called! the stick bit!!)
you need to change the rachet which is just one screw
but the sprung side is the 2 pins in the side and also the spring arm and spring holder at the bottom
bit of a fiddle but not to hard
undo the 4 screws on the front of the case that hold the stick assembly in
then on the back again there is a small silver flat metal clip at the side of each assemmbly
these just pull off
that releases the wired piece on the side ,sorry im not up on the proper names of things
slide that out and then you can pull out the center piece to remove and swap the pins over .
when you take the spring off the arm, the bottom spring holder will fall out so be ready to catch it!
there are 3 pins in all to swap over
now just put it all back together!
obvious but if your new to it (like me!)the 2 sides are the same but when it comes to swap things it looks like they are upside down
I hope this helps at least one person out ,Saved me £25 postage and charges!!
Please feel free to change this or add in the correct names of things if you have power to do so!





< Message edited by mrfixitwhite -- 1/30/2006 10:06 PM >

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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 6/20/2008 1:23 AM   
Musiator


 

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I am very grateful to mrfixitwhite for the Hitec mode conversion instructions above. I followed the instructions and it worked fine! I have taken some photos of the process which may be useful.

DISCLAIMER!!

I have to say that whilst this worked for me, please don't hold me responsible if your transmitter blows-up. Without care you could damge your transmitter. Please point out any errors or extra suggestions.

I'll take the instructions above and elaborate. It's not a task to be carried-out without some confidence in your abilities. I like to fiddle around with stuff and I am a cheapskate so I did not want to send the thing back to Hitec. The costs shown above seem fair to me though.

You will need a selection of small cross-head screwdrivers and a pair of long nose pliers. You need to remove some parts from one joystick and fix them on the other. Take time to examine and understand your TX and these instructions before you start.

1. Take the battery and the RF module out. Unscrewing the aerial is a good idea as this lightens the back cover which flops around while you're trying to do this mode change thing.


2. Remove the 6 screws holding the back cover:


3. Undo the 5 screws on the large PCB and turn it over


4. On this photo, I also show the metal ratchet strip that needs to be moved from one joystick to the other :




5. The PCB will not lift up much more than 90 degrees but that's enough. Move the jumpers as shown. You will need a pair of long nosed pliers for this. I am changing from mode 2 (throttle left) to mode 1 (throttle right):



Leave the PCB loose for now. (I screwed it back in & had to take it off again. You'll see why).


6. Now remove the whole joystick unit by unscrewing the the 4 screws holding it in from the front of the TX. You'll need to do this to get access to the bits & pieces you need to remove.


7. There is a flat metal clip on the side of the joystick assembly. This holds the potentiometer in place. To remove this clip, grab it with long nose pliers, bend it slightly inwards towards the center of the TX (2mm max.) and pull it up to remove it:



Slide the potentiometer out towards the edge of the TX.


8. The rocker arm can now be removed. Unhook the spring but catch the lower spring retainer as you do so. This spring retainer is only held in place by the spring itself.




9. Remove the pin that held the rocker arm. This is very tight. Grab it with pliers and CAREFULLY pull it out. This requires some force so try not to break wires etc. There is no thread on it.


10. In this picture the pin is still in place and you can see the other 2 pins that need to be removed.



11. To get the other 2 pins out, you need to pull out the central portion of the joystick! In this photo, the tricky pins have been removed. They are just as hard as the rocker pin.

12. Now look at the state of things!!! Phew!!

13. It's OK- be calm!. Reverse the work done on the joystick but put the 3 pins, the spring, the lower spring holder and the rocker to one side.

14. Now, dismantle the other joystick and fix these parts in place. Remember that the other joystick is rotated 180 degree so it's upside-down! I pushed the pins in with the flat back of my pliers. I put some silicone grease on the lower spring holder to hold it in place whilst fiddling with the spring. I hate working with little springs. I have a pair of very fine nosed pliers- very useful for hooking springs back on.

15. Reassemble and screw the PCB and the back cover.


And that's all there is to it!


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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 6/20/2008 10:40 AM   
mrfixitwhite


 

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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		HeHe! glad it helped!
and yes your comment near the end is quite right -it does look quite daunting when its all in bits but keep going and all works out gr8
V.nice photos and instructions by the way

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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 10/3/2008 1:06 AM   
Scoun


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Musiator



I am very grateful to mrfixitwhite for the Hitec mode conversion instructions above. I followed the instructions and it worked fine! I have taken some photos of the process which may be useful.

FANTASTIC and Usefull.

Thanks

< Message edited by Scoun -- 10/3/2008 1:08 AM >

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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 10/18/2009 9:33 PM   
rejekz|gaz


 

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From: manchester, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		hi m8i i dont seem to view ur pics as im having trouble knowing were to change the plugs on my pcb i have done every thing els but just stuck on were to put the plugs please can u help me cheers

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RE: Mode change instructions for Hitec Eclipse - 12/1/2009 1:37 PM   
Cho


 

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From: SofiaSofia, BULGARIA
Status: offline 		Musiator

Can you post again the picture with jumper positions for mode1 or 2? I got an used Hitec Eclipse, it works fine, but the jumpers are messed up and I have problems with throttle trim.

I'm flying in mode 2.

Thank you,
Cho

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