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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/13/2005 7:00 AM   
Condor


 

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From: Bogota, DC, COLOMBIA
Status: offline 		Tubig,

I've been following your thread with great interest since the beginning, and by now I've gained a lot of respect for your building skills and your resourcefulness. I have one question: How are you planning to hinge the hatch? I've used the same method as you successfully on several occasions, but I've never been able to create a hinge that is at the same time believable, sturdy, and practical.

Keep up the (very) good work!

Juan M. Villaveces

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/13/2005 7:32 AM   
RCWalker



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Status: offline 		Tim,
I am sure the fiberglass should be around at least 2 oz.

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/14/2005 4:08 AM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		colin, yes, mr. platt is a brilliant modeler. i just used his idea.

juan, thanks for the kind words. my plan now is to just use magnets to hold the hatch in position. there really isn't enough room to use the offset hinges which would be the more scale thing to do.

wallace, yes i bet your right. i'm sure you know the glass i'm using!

< Message edited by tubig -- 2/14/2005 4:12 AM >

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/14/2005 4:21 AM   
US185Damiani



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Status: offline 		Tubig,
Thats fantastic!
glad to hear it worked for you, I use it all the time in full scale airplane work


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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/17/2005 3:51 PM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		spent the last five days prepping the fuse for glassing. spent a lot more time than i wish to tell with trying to get the fin-fuse fillet shape right. still not real happy with it but it's time to draw the line. also got the elevator and rudder bottom half hinge gap covers glued in and blended. she's now ready for the glass.

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/18/2005 12:52 AM   
saramos



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Status: online 		Tubig,

What did you use as a filler?
Can't wait to see it glasses.

Scott


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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/18/2005 7:50 AM  1 votes
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		i use hobbylite mostly. the white filler is a very lightweight spackle by DAP that i've used but i'm beginning not to like it as much because it doesn't sand quite as well as the hobbylite.

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/25/2005 5:56 PM   
Larry S



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Status: offline 		Great threat going here. Just finished a Pica FW and next project is the TF Spit. I have glassed my last three planes. For what it's worth, my "tricks". I use West System epoxy, very thin and works nice. You just have to be sure to bloat up ALL excess epoxy. I found toilet paper works great. Just roll the tissue over the surface then rip any paper off the roll that has epoxy on it and roll the surface again until your toilet paper doesn't pick up any more epoxy. As for a weave filler, I use thinned down DAP that I spread with a foam brush. Use 150 or 220 paper to get a smooth surface. IF you see any dings, now is the time to fill those in with DAP that isn't thinned down. Then I go over the surface with Krylon primmer/sealer, again thinned down BUT not as much as you thin the DAP. Then I use 220 sand paper and will get a surface as smooth as a cat's ashtray. On my FW I did an experiment. I weighed my wing before and after glassing and found I only gained 2 ozs. Just some ideas, hope this helps. Larry

< Message edited by Larry S -- 2/25/2005 5:59 PM >

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/2/2005 2:55 PM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		well, i was almost ready to 'glass the fuse. i decided to blend the top of the plastic wing fillet in with the fuse now to avoid any possible gaps in the glass when i lay it down. i also found a few more depressions in the sheeting to fill in. hopefully tomorrow i can sand everything down and then start 'glassing.

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/4/2005 3:15 AM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Tubig,

Great to see you moving along, what type of filler have you used to blend the wing fillet?

I've made some progress on mine, finishing up the fuse and radio/servo installation. I like to get this all done so I can pre-balance before I start the finishing/painting.

I'm using a Laser-80 4 stroke and it all fits neatly within cowl. I got the cowl from Stans Fibretech and its a beauty very smooth with no flex and a perfect fit. I spent a bit of time fabricating a hidden mounting system. Its going to be a shame to chop holes in the cowl but I do have to let some air in and exhaust out

I also moved my battery and throttle servo in front of the firewall in a custom built enclosure where the 2 stroke exhaust would normally go. This also allowed me to move the rudder and elevator servos plus reciever and retract gear all forward as well.

Also I decided to fabricate my hatch covers (I have two) using the balsa plug I cut from the fuse. It worked very well and I have used magnets to secure everything.

I fitted everything in place and tested the balance and it came out perfect so hopefully after everything is covered/painted will have very little adjusting to do.

Now I just have to decide whether to glass or monokote, i've never glassed before and figured if I monokote it I can always rip it off later and start again.

Rob

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/4/2005 3:16 AM   
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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/4/2005 5:44 AM   
saramos



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Status: online 		Kiwirob,

I've been curious about the cowl from Stans Fibertech. It sure is nice to see a photo of it. I've been debating whether or not to get one. After thinking about it, I've decided to hold off until I get some flights in to best determine the location and size of cutouts using the ABS cowl. Once that's done, I'll pick one up.

Tubig,
Nice to see the progress. A back problem has been keeping me from doing much building. I did manage to build an instrument panel. I posted a photo in my gallery.

Scott


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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/4/2005 6:01 AM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		looks good rob. the wing fillet-fuse filler i'm using is Holt's Thin Putty. used for small auto repairs.
glad to hear your's balanced correctly. have you weighed it yet? you should be pretty good especially since you didn't have to add any weight in the nose. just remember if you paint, painting the tail area may change your balance location depending on how heavy you paint aft of the cg.

i like your hatches. that is really slick about hiding the cowl mounting screws with the blister and making it removable. my plan is to use those rare earth magnets as well.

why don't you try your hand at glassing? it's really not hard at all and i think it will give a better look than moneykote. if you have any questions about glassing just ask around. i'd be glad to answer what i can. i remember i didn't know what the heck i was doing my first time glassing but it turned out pretty good anyway. if you rip off moneykote you're likely to pull off some the balsa as well which will require more filling and sanding. go ahead and glass it now while it's perfect.

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/4/2005 6:15 AM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		scott, your instrument panel looks fantastic! care to drop any hints as to how you made it? (that's what i need to start working on now)

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/4/2005 10:25 AM   
saramos



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Status: online 		I used a number of materials and resources. The full scale panel is made up of two panels. The front panel, containing the flight instruments, is bolted onto the base panel. The base panel contains engine and other systems instruments. I made these separately, then glued the front panel onto the base panel.

Each one is made of several layers. The back most layer is a printout of the dial faces on glossy photo paper. The next layer is 1/32 balsa. On top of that is a layer of clear plastic, giving all the instruments a glass with a single piece per panel. The face of the panel is .015 sheet styrene. I used various bits for finishing touches.

I started by using some repositional glue to layer the balsa and styrene with a printout of the instrument layout as a template on top. I made hollow punches by sharpening the inside of various diameter brass tubing,( 3/16" the smallest, to 13/16" on the largest.) and punched out the holes through the paper template, styrene, and balsa.
Once the instruments were punched out, I cut the outer shape of the panels. I separated the layers, discarding the paper template.
Next I made the square instrument bases from .030 styrene, for the two O2 regulator valves Upper left and the one meter below the oil pressure guage (lower right). first I punched the holes, then cut the squares and attached them to the panel. Next came the instrument bezel rings. I used a technique described on the rcscalebuilders website. I took 22 guage and 24 guage wire and wraped them around brass tubes that were 1/32" smaller in diameter than the tubes I used to punch the holes and cut them to form rings. These were then glued into the panels. I cut two small squares for the switch bases on the top left. Next, I used a syringe to put drops of canopy glue to make the bolts for the instruments and panels. At this point, I airbrushed the assemblies with a color called grimy black. It's kind of like a faded flat black.
At this point, I cut out the two clear plastic pieces for the lenses, and glued them to the back of the styrene, and then glued the balsa onto the back of the assemblies. Then I created the instrument faces in Corel Draw (which I used for creating the templates too). I used the two photos posted below, and scanned the intstrument faceplate printout from an old Royal products Spitfire cockpit kit as guides. Once the faces were made, I positioned and scaled them using the panel template I had made, and printed them out. This gave me the same positions as I used for punching the holes. I cut them out and glued them onto the back. The dials, switches and lights were bits of plastic cut from some plastic toothpicks and styrene rods (plastruct). The oil pressure guage was cut from .030 styrene. The landing gear indicator is two layers, the bottom is printed and cut from glossy photo paper, and the top faceplate is printed and cut from matte photo paper. The placards were printed and cut from matte paper. I then painted the various switches, faceplates and bolts, using brass, aluminum, red, white, metalic amber, and green paints.

Scott


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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/4/2005 2:48 PM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		alright, good deal. what you've just described is pretty much what i had in my mind's eye about how to go about this....including, believe it or not, using the instrument guages from an old royal kit (albeit a corsair and not a spit....but at this scale i don't think it will make much difference.) my biggest question was the bezel rings which looks like you're method will work just fine. i started today making a template for the "larger" panel to fit around the interior using card paper (manila folder). i thought i would use balsa as the panel base with clear plastic for the "glass" and then put the card paper on top. we'll see how it works.

also, today i managed to get the second coat of wb sanding sealer on the fuse so tomorrow she'll be ready to apply glass. and i put on the filler coat to the wing top and other items such as the ailerons, flaps and aileron servo covers. lots of sanding to be done now.

thanks for your input scott.

< Message edited by tubig -- 3/4/2005 2:51 PM >

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/5/2005 8:14 AM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		began glassing the fuse starting with the bottom.

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/5/2005 3:42 PM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		did some work on the smaller parts today. after sanding the filler coat with 60 grit i put on a coat of Bondo's Glazing and Spot Putty to fill the sanding scratches and minor depressions, let dry and then sanded with 320 dry. as you can see virtually all of it is sanded off and the 320 grit leaves a silky smooth surface.

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/5/2005 7:14 PM   
saramos



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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/6/2005 3:01 PM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		thanks scott.

one-half of the fuse covered today.
also, sanded filler coat on wing bottom. then added spot putty but not yet sanded.

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/7/2005 9:35 AM   
saramos



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Status: online 		I had a bad time this evening. I had some low spots on the top left wing that I tried to level out using ultralite spackle. After applying, I was getting ready to work on the the right wing and was turning the wing around. I had the wing in a position that the light from my lamp was at a low angle which showed that the moisture from the spackle had warped the skin. I'll let it dry and check to see how bad it is. I really don't want to have to try and remove and re-skin the wing. I skinned one of the ailerons this evening with 1/64 ply. I still have to do the second. The RCV bolts directly to a firewall so I had to extend the engine mount box to get the engine in the proper position. The RCV also has a fair amount of torque and vibration. To add some more strength, I epoxied some carbon tissue to cover the mount box.

Scott


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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/7/2005 2:03 PM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		yeh, let it dry thorough and then go look at it. i had a similar problem when using wb sanding sealer on some thin sheeting of a mustang. took many coats of filler but i finally managed to level it.

today saw the other side of fuse glassed.

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/7/2005 7:52 PM   
saramos



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Status: online 		Looks like you're approaching the home stretch!

I checked the skin on my wing today. Looks like it will survive.
I am going to have to make a decision on what to use for glassing. The three methods I'm considering are West Systems epoxy, Deft brushing lacquer, or water based polyurethane. I am concerned about warpage with the wb poly after my mishap last night, but those that use it claim it is very light. The brushing lacquer has the advantage of being easy to apply and i have a well ventilated area to do it in. The epoxy gives known results and is probably the hardest of the finishes. I'd like to get started with the glassing this week.

How much detail are you planning on for your cockpit?

I am finding it hard to come up with something that looks very scale for the sidewalls. The cockpit rails and wing saddles use up a lot of real estate. I don't think I'll add much detail on the walls. I'll add a floor, control yoke, seat and backrest, and some detail in the back portion of the cockpit, but not much more. If I put a pilot in, that would cover up a lot of the space but I cannot find a 1/7th scale pilot anywhere.

Scott




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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/8/2005 3:12 AM   
tubig


 

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Status: offline 		for the cockpit i'm just planning on the instrument panel, seat, stick, floor and a pilot....trying to keep it light. i have documentation showing where mkix's had gas tanks in the area just aft of the seat which would take up the space of the elevated floor. but it would have to be light. i have a 1/7 scale pilot but he's a very tight fit...he must have been a body builder because his arms pinch against the side rails. i'm looking for a 1/8 scale pilot now....i think this kit is really more 1/8 scale than 1/7th.

as for the finishing, i would go with the hardest finish to help prevent hangar rash.

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/8/2005 9:23 AM   
saramos



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Status: online 		I had been thinking that a 1/7 scale pilot would be a tight fit. The real plane was small, and the cockpit rails and fuse stringers that Top Flite designed are massive in comparison to the full scale construction. You can tell how oversized they are by compairing the instrument panel I made to fit vs. the photo of the real panel. Estimating from drawings and photos, if you were to scale down the stringers to 1/7th scale, they would be about 3/32 square. The profile and width of the upper half of the fuse on model follows the scale outline well. From the 3 view I have, the wing saddle on the model is higher. I don't know if the fuselage is shorter than scale, or if the wing chamber is thcker than scale.

A 1/8 scale pilot may be easier to find too.
I am leaning towards the epoxy, but the ease and cost of the lacquer is attractive.

Scott


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