Mustang Exhaust
- Kit
Seller:tony-howard Details:
$35.00
| 9/21/2008
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Posts: 281
Joined: 10/5/2005 From: York ,
PA, USA Status: offline
tubig, my TF Spitifre arrived today with a couple of extras that I hadn't planned on, an unexpected surprise was a cockpit kit as well as a 4 bladed static prop. It will be a while before I start on it but that will give me time to get my retracts and air system and to choose an engine, I like the 4 strokes especially Saitos so maybe a .91. I will have to read over your build several times to learn how you made chin scoop.
I will have to read over your build several times to learn how you made chin scoop.
if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask here or pm me. the carb intake is actually fairly easy to make using the "lost foam" method and i think it adds a lot to the model for just a little weight. the only problem could be engine cooling. i haven't yet cut out a hot air exhaust opening for the engine. i'm waiting to see how the engine reacts inflight. if an opening is required then it will have to come out of the carb intake which means most of the intake will need to be cut away. however, the outline will still be there. just something to think about. happy building!
Posts: 70
Joined: 3/10/2005 From: Box HillVictoria, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
I have admired the craftsmanship shown throughout this thread. You have inspired me to begin emptying my wallet! Spotted the TF Spit kit at my LHS and bought it. I am away from home so construction will have to wait. (No free cockpit kit and display prop tho!) I thought I might offer some tips re cooling given your last post. I have limited experience but have read a lot of advice. 1.The cooling exit area is more important than the inlet. 2:1 is recommended. 2.Putting a baffle in the cowl which closely fits around the cylinder and head will direct any airflow through the cooling fins to give better efficiency 3. Instead of cutting big inlet and outlet holes, I cut slots with a needle file. It looks like a grill but I think it looks better as you retain the shape of the cowl better. The photo is a sportsman aviation spitfire ARF which is a similar size to the TF but very light. 3.5kg all up. The engine is a OS91FS. I never had cooling problems with this arrangement. 4. I read that many Spits had a letter marking on the cowl under the spinner and one smart bunny actually cut the inlet in the shape of the letter (M, I think) to make it less obvious.
I haven't gone through the whole thread so I hope I'm not telling you to do what you have already done but i would hate for you to have a dead stick at just the wrong moment due to overheating and lose such a beautiful plane. (Ask Mr Jolly!) Good luck with the maiden.
PS. Thats a TF Spitfire spinner on my ARF. Do not use! This one fell apart in mid air. I got down in one piece fortunately. Replaced with Al.
PPS. I am tossing up whether to get Robart retracts and oleos or the CJ ones designed for this kit. The CJ are more expensive. Are they worth the extra money? Which are easier to fit/use?
You have inspired me to begin emptying my wallet! Spotted the TF Spit kit at my LHS and bought it.
oops, sorry. anyway, you have some good tips about engine cooling. i like the slots idea, one i hadn't thought of before. right now i have a pretty big "slot" in front. i know of the usual 2:1 convention for exhaust vs. inlet opening sizes and using baffles. at this point i'm really trying not to cut the rear opening from the carb intake. but if need be i will. today might be a good flying day so maybe i'll get the chance to do the maiden.
good luck with your kit build.
oh yeah, about the CJ's. they are not a "drop in" fit as advertised. close but you will have do some surgery for the air nipple. so i guess it really depends on what you're looking for. i don't have any first hand experience with the Robarts so i can't make a comparison. i have heard of problems with a pin (forgot the exact name) in the CJ retract that bends too easily if the landing is not spot on so not sure how robust these are. also, unless you spend $40 extra for the 4-way selector valve (to vary the retraction/extension speed) you can expect the gear to slam up/down fairly hard. this has already caused a little cracking in the upper wing sheeting on mine.
< Message edited by tubig -- 5/20/2006 2:34:12 AM >
Posts: 2245
Joined: 12/6/2003 From: Northridge,
CA, USA Status: online
The way I've decided to deal with the scale carb intake and the exhaust hole is to make the carb intake removable. The intake will be on for static display, and removed for flight. I thought about making it hinged so it would open in flight, but that seemed like more work than I wanted to tackle. I look forward to seeing your solution.
Posts: 1448
Joined: 2/2/2002 From: Lakeside, AZ, USA Status: online
If you don't have an adjustable air valve you can use line restrictors. for the retracts. Tubig the bird is looking good. you are a busy man. I just acquired a Platt Spit 88 ws. I was not looking for another Spit , but the price I couldn't turn it down. Rich
well, she finally had her maiden flight yesterday. only one flight and a short one but she does fly. here's the report.
i finally sorted out the remote glow problem. the lead to the glow plug was shorting out against the cylinder so just a little bending and adding a silicone sleeve to the lead solved this. after starting and warming up it was time to taxi. well, let me tell you that castoring tailwheels DO NOT work. it was very difficult at best to taxi to and from the pits and turning around on the runway was a challenge as well. short bursts from the engine moving air over the rudder will get the model moving in the right direction but once the tailwheel gets past about 30-40 degrees it just keeps on going to 90 degrees and the model spins in place. once stopped another burst will start turning her around but then the wheel just flips over to the other side, a lot like a progressive spin in a full size plane. i think a solution to this will be to add a small spring on each side of the tailwheel anchored to the fuselage to keep the tailwheel from over extending.
for takeoff the winds were light at about 5 kts and down the runway. once i got her pointed into the wind the takeoff roll was actually pretty easy. she tracked straight with just a little rudder input. i think all that right thrust that TF built into the kit helps there. i also add power slowly on takeoffs instead of jamming it so that helps keep the torque effects down. she lifted off in about 50ft. and slowly climbed out. here i found out two things. first, an OS91FS really doesn't have enough oomph to fly her well. granted, this is a brand new engine that isn't fully broken in (so i was running it a little rich) but i'm not sure if it will improve enough to make using it comfortable. will see. secondly, she felt very tail heavy as she was very sensitive in pitch. i made two circuits of the field and then my transmitter battery low warning sounded so i had to put her down. landing was tricky due to the aft cg and i really didn't have a good feel for her yet. it was ugly but i got her on the ground with a slight wingtip scrape.
so, it's done. i think with a few more adjustments (and possibly a stronger engine) she will be a good flying bird. i guess that probably pretty much wraps up this thread. i would like to say thanks to everyone who looked in here and offered advice, suggestions or comments. sorry it took so long to get from the beginning to here (2 1/2 years!) but then again it's just a hobby, right?
needless to say, i didn't get any inflight pics but i did take one of the me and the guys i fly with. these guys are my "maintenance crew" as they usually are the ones repairing the field damage i do on my planes.
< Message edited by tubig -- 5/21/2006 4:40:41 AM >
Posts: 382
Joined: 11/16/2003 From: Doncaster, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Nice one Tubig. Those "free" tail wheels may certainly be free, but they are a pain. I suffer the same problem with my Spit, it certainly needs some form of taming!
Great feeling the maiden as you now know for these works of art. Ye ha!
Posts: 2245
Joined: 12/6/2003 From: Northridge,
CA, USA Status: online
Congratulations with your maiden. I'm sure once you get your cg set, it'll be a fun plane to fly. I used a MAS prop on my 4* and then tried an APC. The APC really made a big difference in performance.
Congratulations with your maiden. I'm sure once you get your cg set, it'll be a fun plane to fly. I used a MAS prop on my 4* and then tried an APC. The APC really made a big difference in performance.
scott, i've been thinking the same thing. currently i have a Master 13x8 turning about 9300 rpm at a rich setting. but i do have a couple of APC props that i may bolt on to try to get some improvement. i don't want to lean out the engine to max rpm with the limited amount of cooling i have. i'm hoping the APC's give it the performance i'd like to see before making an engine swap.
Nice one Tubig. Those "free" tail wheels may certainly be free, but they are a pain. I suffer the same problem with my Spit, it certainly needs some form of taming!
jolly, do you fly off grass or pavement? our field is paved. i wonder if it's easier for castoring wheels on grass.
Posts: 382
Joined: 11/16/2003 From: Doncaster, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Tarmac is the only surface so far so the effects are at their maximum. I will be trying grass late this year.
Had some engine trouble myself last week, result is the Spit is in surgery having a new front end in and the cannons re- fitted Slow speed, dead stick & downwind = tip stall
Still there you have it build : crash : build : crash : build : crash : build : crash etc. etc.
I might be looking at on board glow before I fly again. We will see.
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RE: TF Spitfire build - 
RE: TF Spitfire build - 