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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/14/2004 5:40:30 AM   
tubig


 

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From: Jungli, TAIWAN
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these photos show the gaps created by some of the formers being too small.

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< Message edited by tubig -- 2/14/2004 1:55:45 PM >

(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 51

RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/14/2004 6:46:35 AM   
JGrc



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Joined: 2/24/2002
From: Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
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Tubin, if you want to make the TF Spit more scale I recommend buy a set of BrianTaylor plans from Bob Holman. Taylor Spits have won many scale contests. For .60 size retracts I would go with Spring Air if I had the choice. They fit straight in the wing and safer specially for first retract set. Also here is a good thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Best_spitfire/m_1228372/tm.htm
Have fun,

JG
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/warbirdscale/

(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 52

RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/14/2004 12:03:08 PM   
tubig


 

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From: Jungli, TAIWAN
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jg, i've already gone with the CJ retracts. they look good and i think i will like them.

as far as the BT plans go, i could use them but then i would probably want to shelve this project and just scratch build the BT which isn't really what i wanted to do. i know the TF is just sport scale so i'm trying to change just the smaller things which won't require a major overhaul to make this particular kit as scale as I can make it. i wanted to go with a kit for my first time building with flaps and pneumatic gear. thanks for the link.

(in reply to JGrc)
       Post #: 53

RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/14/2004 2:19:52 PM   
Wayne22



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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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I have the CJ retracts in my spit. I think I got one of the first sets they made, and I hope they have improved them since. When I went to install the retracts on the mounting rails, the airnipple sticks straight out and I actually had to cut a slot in the rail to get the whole mechanism between the rails. Then when it is time the drill and screw the retract mounts to the rails, the mounting brackets on the retracts are too narrow for the mounting rails. I could screw one side down, but the other would be dangling in mid air! I made some metal clamps to attach the other side, but it is pretty mickey mouse, and I won't be surprised if they pull out one day. I sincerly hope that CJ has made improvements since I bought mine...........

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       Post #: 54

RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/15/2004 1:58:39 AM   
DMehalko(DM)



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From: Denver, CO, USA
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Lookin good tubig,

Makes me want to go work on my Sea Fury!!! I've just been busy since my laccross season started up



David

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RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/15/2004 7:22:57 AM   
ketil


 

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From: , ,
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NEO has this homepage and its the best "learning" site i have ever seen ,he tells in detail how to do anything under the building,glassing,painting progress.
see this site .
this tread is in this warbird page,building the sbd dantless.




http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD


Ketil

< Message edited by ketil -- 2/15/2004 7:24:49 AM >

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       Post #: 56

RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/15/2004 12:48:02 PM   
tubig


 

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nony, you have me just a little worried now. i haven't actually placed the gear on the plans to check for fit. supposedly they are just a drop in fit....at least that is the way they are advertised. guess i'll have to pull out the plans and check.

ketil, been to his site many times.

david, thanks!

(in reply to ketil)
       Post #: 57

RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/15/2004 4:37:06 PM   
Wayne22



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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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yeah, that is the way mine were advertised too....but I have never seen anyone else mention this concern, so maybe they fixed it....

If you dry fit the retract rails into the two ribs you can set the retract on it and you will find out really quickly. There were two problems - one the air nipples should have be 90 degree ones to keep everything as close as possible to the air cylinder, and, secondly, the mounting lugs were much narrower than the spacing of the rails that Top Flight provided....

(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 58

RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/15/2004 5:05:31 PM   
coupar



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From: Leesburg, VA, USA
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I've been watching this thread with great interest since I'm also building a TF Spit. I'm not trying to build a contest model but I want a reasonable job. Using retracts and flaps. There seems to be so much good advice here I thought I'd post my own questions (hope you dont mind).

I am getting to deciding on covering and finish. There seems to be no shortage of advice on glass/monocote/latex paint etc. etc. but they only served to confuse me further on what the best solution is to cover and finish. I returned to modeling after a 30 year absense. When I stopped modeling I had given up on Monocote as a bad idea and used nylon coverings doped. These days monocote STILL is'nt fuelproof but my last two models with monocote seemed to work pretty well. So, my original plan was to use a base grey monocote with Lustercote Olive per the plan. It seems the TF spit is very heavy and this looked like the lightest approach? I can't seem to find light fiberglass and I'm confused on the best resin - epoxy or polyurethane or?

I read with interest Jimmbbo's finsihing suggestion. Silkspan used to be tissue back 30 years ago. We used to use it all the time on sheeted planes and doped it as Jimmbbo describes......only the K&S silkspan I can find looks like real silk. Is this the right stuff? Is 00 gauge light enough? Or should I be using tissue?

Same issues on paint. Is there a light fuelproof paint? Is Lustercote really that bad? It sure is expensive!

Before I make a mess of this thing HELP!


Cheers for now!

George Coupar

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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/15/2004 6:50:00 PM   
HUMMERH3



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From: new port richey, FL, USA
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hehe try this

http://www.rob.com/matt/videos/ohmygod.wmv

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RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/15/2004 10:10:19 PM   
Doug D.


 

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Hey tubig! I've attached a couple of photo's of the CJ retracts install in my Spit. Hope they help a little. Ask questions if you have them. I'll try and answer the best that I can.


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(in reply to tubig)
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RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/16/2004 2:56:19 AM   
tubig


 

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doug, thanks for the photos. did you have the same problem as nony? i'm glad i found out about this before building the wing so hopefully i can make the necessary modifications during the building process (not afterwards!).

george, feel free to post away. as far as i'm concerned this thread is all about putting out info on the TF spit by anyone that has anything to contribute. i know you will a dozen different opinions on what you should use to cover and paint so i'm just going to tell what i'm planning on using. i just bought some .6oz fiberglass cloth from CST. i will use that and Z-Poxy finishing resin. i have used this technique before and i think it works well. i have also used tissue applied with thinned pva (elmers) glue followed with several coats of wb polyurethane. this is also easy to work with but doesn't produce as hard (read ding resistant) a covering as the glass/epoxy method. for painting, i will be using tamiya acrylic paints with a fuel proofer on top of that. i would like to try to latex method but my painting is done in taiwan and it's not quite as easy as walking into your local sherwin-williams store and asking them to color match a quart of latex paint for you.

< Message edited by tubig -- 2/16/2004 11:05:48 AM >

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       Post #: 62

RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/16/2004 2:01:49 PM   
Doug D.


 

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Tubig and Nony! I can't remember what I ran into when installing the retracts. It's been over a year since I have worked in that area. But I always test fit first and fix things the way I want before glue is applied. The old saying measure twice and cut once can be applied to everything in a round about way. Adjustments will be made for the pressure fittings and cylinder.
The CJ units aren't a drop in fit exactly. But I still like them better.

(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 63

RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/17/2004 1:25:48 AM