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RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/22/2004 12:18:59 PM   
tubig


 

Posts: 963
Joined: 2/17/2003
From: Jungli, TAIWAN
Status: offline 		i've put the fuselage aside for now and will concentrate on the wing. today, i started the left wing per instructions. pretty straight forward. the rib die cutting was pretty good overall...just a couple spots of crunching. the rib balsa is very hard...so much so that i split a couple of them when trying to put pins through them. just an annoyance really since i had to spend time ca'ing them back together. on a positive note, the part's fit was very good...just a couple of areas, notably the t.e. in front of the aileron, where there were some small gaps between the t.e. and the ribs. this was easily remedied with scrap balsa sandwiched in the gaps. also, TF has done a good job of lightening the ribs. i made the slots for the spars a little deeper to allow the spars to sit deeper because i've found it's infinitely easier to then put a thin strip of balsa on top of the spar and then sand down to match the ribs than try to sand a hardwood spar that's a little high down to the rib without damaging the surrounding balsa. you can see my high tech "tools" for doing this in the photo. at this point the top spar is attached only at the outer two ribs.

i didn't like TF's method of gluing the ribs to the lower spar. the instructions have you remove the pins that are holding down the spar and then glue the ribs to the spar while pushing down on the rib and pulling up on the spar. HUH? i only have two hands...left ones at that. their method would make it very difficult to keep the ribs vertical and square to the spar. so i kept the pins in place and used a wedge to raise the spar up into the ribs while gluing. much easier. the photo shows what i mean.

this represents about 2 1/2 hours work for me.

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(in reply to Doug D.)
       Post #: 76

RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/22/2004 12:24:36 PM   
tubig


 

Posts: 963
Joined: 2/17/2003
From: Jungli, TAIWAN
Status: offline 		regarding the CJ retracts, i placed them on the plans to check for fit. i think by installing the retracts to the bearers first and then installing the bearers in the wing i can get away without having to cut into the bearers for clearance for the air nipples. initial observation is that it will be a good fit. we'll see.

(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 77

RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 2/23/2004 1:00:34 PM   
tubig


 

Posts: 963
Joined: 2/17/2003
From: Jungli, TAIWAN
Status: offline 		finished adjusting the retract bearers to fit. i went ahead and moved the bearers closer together. CJ calls for 7/8" between bearers and TF used 1 1/8" so i cut out about 3/16 from each inside corner to bring the bearers closer to each other. it was a good call because without doing it the holes in the retract housing would have missed the wood (1st photo). then it was a matter of adding the false leading edge and finish gluing in the the top and bottom spars and trailing edges to the ribs. i also added a thin strip of balsa to the top of the top spar which i had inset slightly more into the rib. this allows me to easily sand down to the rib without gooning up the softer balsa by trying to make the harder basswood flush to the rib. finally sanding the l.e., t.e. and spar to match the rib profile. my technique for this is to apply masking tape to the ribs to protect them so that as i sand the harder wood around them i don't gouge the softer balsa. when i have sanded down to the tape i switch to finer grit of sandpaper and sand until the wood starts to show underneath the tape and then go very slowly until the tape finally wears off. when that happens i can run my finger over the rib/spar/rib area and it's a perfect contour. this technique works well any time something needs to be sanded down to match a profile (ie. te to rib, le to rib, spar to rib, wing tips, matching fuselage formers, etc). admittedly it is rather time consuming but in the end i think it's worth it since i haven't altered the airfoil by sanding too much from adjacent ribs. in the 3rd photo you can just make out the tape running along the top of the ribs. the last photo is after sanding.

all in all about 5 hours of work with at least 1 1/2 hours fiddling with the retract bears.

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(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 78

RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/3/2004 11:30:08 AM   
tubig


 

Posts: 963
Joined: 2/17/2003
From: Jungli, TAIWAN
Status: offline 		i've put in the remaining three shear webs as recommended by some fine modelers on another site and finished sanding the bottom parts of the ribs, l.e. and t.e. please don't hestitate from setting me straight when i try to screw something up (i'm real good at that). the top picture shows the bottom of the wing with some of the masking tape i use to keep from gouging the soft balsa still on ribs. that raps up the left wing for now as outlined by the instructions.

the second picture shows the right wing under construction. had to take a few days off to play with a new toy......GWS electric P51D....fun little bugger.

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(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 79

RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/4/2004 12:08:44 PM   
tubig


 

Posts: 963
Joined: 2/17/2003
From: Jungli, TAIWAN
Status: offline 		today i got some more done on the right wing. went a little faster this time around especially with the retract bearers. you know, there's something to be said for fixed gear aircraft! the right wing on the plans shows the installation of fixed gear so to make sure i had the gear in the correct position i first traced the outline of the gear from the left wing, then turned that over and traced it so that i would have the correct orientation for the right wing and then placed that over the plans. if anyone knows a simpler way to do this accurately please tell me. the first photo shows the tracing from the left wing. the second photo shows the tracing after placing over the right wing on the plans. this also shows the gear after adjusting the placement of the bearers. and finally, the third photo shows where i am at the point of sanding the leading, trailing edges, spar cap and ribs to profile. hopefully, will get that and more done tomorrow.

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(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 80

RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/4/2004 12:16:17 PM   
tubig


 

Posts: 963
Joined: 2/17/2003
From: Jungli, TAIWAN
Status: offline 		for anyone considering this kit with the CJ gear here is a shot of how much i had to bring the bearers closer together to fit the CJ retracts. i'll have to fill in the gaps, which are plugged with shims now, after gluing in the bearers which comes later.

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(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 81

RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/5/2004 12:12:17 PM   
tubig


 

Posts: 963
Joined: 2/17/2003
From: Jungli, TAIWAN
Status: offline 		i did just manage to finish up the right wing to the stopping point in the instructions. again, as with the left wing, good parts fit and everything went pretty smoothly plus it was a little quicker this time. if you look very closely you will see where the flap ribs on the right wing ended up a little shorter than on the left. a little disappointing because i thought i had done a good job with the sanding. nothing that can't be fixed some a little more wood and sanding. guess i'll do that as i go along. about 7 hours for right wing to this point. next is the center section.

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(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 82

RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/6/2004 4:16:20 AM   
saramos



Posts: 2245
Joined: 12/6/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: online 		When you build your center section, and are getting ready to glue in the aft and forward dowel plates (steps 7 - 9, page 19), check the alignment with not only the two dowels, but also check the alignment along with the Leading Edge jig that will be used when you attach the outer wing panels ( step 3, page 21). I assembled, aligned and glued the dowel plates as instructed on page 9, and the dowels aligned well to each other, but when it came time to place the wing on the jigs ( steps 5 - 7, page 21), the dowels did not line up perfectly with the pre cut holes in the jig. Also check the alignment against the dowel holes in what will become bulkhead B1 (page 37) and the wing dowel doubler (page 43).

Scott

(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 83

RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/6/2004 8:21:53 AM   
aglikman2000


 

Posts: 4
Joined: 11/9/2003
From: Shoham, ISRAEL
Status: offline 		Hello all

I am planning on building 1/3 scale Spitfire , just got the idea
any comments on that

Thanks
Arye G.

(in reply to Doug D.)
       Post #: 84

RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/6/2004 11:47:25 AM   
tubig


 

Posts: 963
Joined: 2/17/2003
From: Jungli, TAIWAN
Status: offline 		scott, that is great info but a little late for me. i finished up most of the wing center section today and those little buggers are already glued in. hopefully someone else doing this kit will learn from it. i guess i'll have to make it happen as i go.

the center section is complete to the point of sanding the ribs, leading and trailing edges to profile before sheeting the top(couldn't quite get it all done today). a couple of gotcha's for anyone building or contemplating building this kit. first, some of the parts are mislabeled. for examle, the forward and aft ply dowel plates are mislabeled in reverse. i'm beginning to realize that i need to double check every part against the plan before using it (which is probably a good technique anyway). secondly, the holes in those pieces are not quiet centered so make sure you check the positioning of the dowel hole with the dowel shown on the plans as you place the ply piece into position otherwise you may get an alignment error. thirdly, the instructions don't mention it but the front ends of the ribs need to be sanded to make an even support for the sub l.e.

part of the instructions has you drill holes for the wing dowels through the sub leading edge and leading edge with the two taped together. the leading edge is preshaped (rounded) and needs some sort of support to prevent it from rocking for accurate drilling. the third photo shows what i did. i placed the taped pieces on two blocks and then supported the middle with shims of the correct height as i drilled. worked good. if anyone has a better way, please post it.

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< Message edited by tubig -- 3/6/2004 8:04:26 PM >

(in reply to aglikman2000)
       Post #: 85

RE: RE: RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/6/2004 12:10:44 PM   
tubig


 

Posts: 963
Joined: 2/17/2003
From: Jungli, TAIWAN
Status: offline 		arye, uh, it would be a LOT bigger than the TF .

< Message edited by tubig -- 3/7/2004 8:13:19 PM >

(in reply to tubig)
       Post #: 86

RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/7/2004 4:33:57 AM   
Old Navy Flyer



Posts: 152
Joined: 12/12/2003
From: MEMPHIS, TN, USA
Status: offline 		Navy18, I also flew P-3s (as a NFO). I recently retired from active duty and became addicted to the RC hobby. I am inheriting a TopFlite Spitfire from my brother who flew it for several years. He loves the airplane, but wants me to have a good warbird (after I get another season of flight training under my belt). His (now my) Spit is on the heavy side, but flys great with an OS 91 four stroke. It is only a hand full on landing as the airspeed bleeds off. The Spit easily handles windy days when most other planes are grounded.
By the way, I also instructed in P'Cola, and my fond memories of the T-34C inspired me to buy the Hangar 9 T-34. It's not a Turbomentor, but I really like it for a semi-scale ARF.

(in reply to Navy18)
       Post #: 87

RE: TF Spitfire build - 3/7/2004 12:47:08 PM   
tubig


 

Posts: 963
Joined: 2/17/2003
From: Jungli, TAIWAN
Status: offline 		today's work got the flap servo in place and top sheeting on. the instructions don't specify but make sure a space is left around the servo rails when they are glued in place. i just used some scrap 1/16" sheet as a spacer between the servo and rails and the servo and plywood mount. i love the way epoxy soaks into wood when it is heated up with a heat gun. i stick some on the parts to be joined and apply the heat and the epoxy soaks right into the joint. i think it actually makes working with it less messy as it's easy to manipulate. should provide a very strong bond without much weight gain. i also made a small fillet around the servo rail/plywood mount for a little extra security. the photos show the top sheeting being glued, the flap mount and its corresponding mounting plate in the wing. again, even though not specifically instructed to do so, i put some CA into the screw holes for the flap servo.

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