RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers  
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RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/21/2004 9:14:12 PM   
Doug Cronkhite


 

Posts: 2153
Joined: 12/20/2001
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		My only complaint so far with the Focus 2 is like the Focus 1, its pipe channel cannot handle the long ES pipe properly. Need to figure out a way around this.

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Doug Cronkhite

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RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/21/2004 9:26:29 PM   
bla bla


 

Posts: 1580
Joined: 9/19/2002
From: Oslo, NORWAY
Status: offline 		Cut it back, further towards the tail. There'e plently of room... and make a perminate fill piece out of say 1/16" ply from the fire wall to say the UC area. I'd glue the whole tunnel in place anyway.
I did this years ago on my Hydeout and made the access through the canopy area... still works perfectly.
The removable tunnel concept as used on the Hydeout and the Focus 1 is just a hopeless design concept and a real downer on my Focus.
Lets hope it's gone for ever.

< Message edited by bla bla -- 1/21/2004 4:26:34 PM >

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       Post #: 27

RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/21/2004 9:34:03 PM   
Pro pattern



Posts: 354
Joined: 4/19/2003
From: Savaneta, ARUBA
Status: offline 		Hi there bla bla,

I’ve not thougt that , putting the tank on the side.
I did some measurements and it looks like it will fit in, not a mm to spare.

Thanks a lot,

< Message edited by Pro pattern -- 1/21/2004 5:32:28 PM >

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RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/21/2004 9:44:36 PM   
Pro pattern



Posts: 354
Joined: 4/19/2003
From: Savaneta, ARUBA
Status: offline 		And also, what is the set-up that would not fit in the pipe tunnel. (length of pipe etc, etc)
I’m planning on using the Webra 160 with Jayson header and the engine mount
will be the Hyde A-type with the Greve Pipe.
Would I also need to enlarge my pipe tunnel?
Length of the pipe is 25”.

Thanks, in advance for the info

< Message edited by Pro pattern -- 1/21/2004 5:42:46 PM >

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3rd place, is just 2nd best loser

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RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/21/2004 10:02:35 PM   
bla bla


 

Posts: 1580
Joined: 9/19/2002
From: Oslo, NORWAY
Status: offline 		Remember that the tank will expand if your using a pressurised setup so make sure it isn't to tight!
Just want to share something with you. Some guys like their aeroplanes spick and span, even going to the trouble of having a little pilot in the cockpit, hummm... I'm not quite that way.
I've even stopped using a cockpit floor. Sounds strange untill you've tried it. Even with the canopy in place you have a total visual on what's going on in there, at a glance. You can see the servos, the linkages, the aileron leads and conections. You can eyeball the tank, and know exactly how much fuel you have left... it's, well in my humble opinion, the only way to go after you've tried it.
And belive it or not, it kinda looks cool. Real business like, real Formula 1. No nonsence frills.
But then again, those who like a pilot, will never understand.

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       Post #: 30

RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/21/2004 10:12:10 PM   
Pro pattern



Posts: 354
Joined: 4/19/2003
From: Savaneta, ARUBA
Status: offline 		That is not a bad idea at all!!


Thanks again,

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Nobody is perfect, I’m nobody
3rd place, is just 2nd best loser

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       Post #: 31

RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/22/2004 3:50:56 AM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		OK, sounds like just about everyone is finishing up theirs. I'll give credit for starting this kit to my son, who kept asking me when "we" could build it.

Fit the engine box. As Doug said on his, trimmed 5/8 for a perfect fit. I looked at both my FOCUS I's and realize I prefer a little more down and right thrust. I built this in to try and get it a little closer to start out... I trimmed the right engine box side 1/16 less (9/16 rather then 5/8). Attached is the diagram with the Hyde ARI mount and YS 140DZ engine.

Drawing attached....

Don

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RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/24/2004 5:19:04 PM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Mounting Blind nuts on the firewall.

When putting the Hyde mount on (without dissassembling the beams) it was difficult getting a drill in for the holes. Here are the steps to get them in. By the way, I found the Hyde ARI mount to be quite expensive, but worth it. I've never had problems with any of the ones I've run, and servos last longer, batteries don't run down as fast and the plane just seems to last longer.

1. With the mount positioned and secured with the 1/'4 x 20 knob in the back, took a drill (just fit in the holes) and hand-turned some holes (the plywood is soft enough). then remove the mount and drill the holes from where the hand-drilled marks are.

2. Now, install the blind nuts (not like I did by hammering in from the back or through a punch for the two on the left side) but by first cutting away some of the triangle stock to clear the blind nuts on the left, then start the screws through the mount, start to tighten (half way) and put in a few drops of CA, then tighten up all the way.

3. Done. I then mounted the box with some CA and put triangle stock behind and in front of the firewall to secure the ply sides; then added the top and bottom. I took a hole-saw (about an inch and a quarter) and drilled a hole in the middle of the top plate to access stuff inside if needed in the future.

Next step is hinging. I tried the elevator pushrod and yes, as others have discovered, its a right snug fit in the rear support block. I'm going to drill a hole from the back tail post and enlarge the pushrod support hole some. (then hinge all the surfaces to include the rudder).

Going to the hobby shop for some thin CA.

Don

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RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/24/2004 5:28:01 PM   
Pro pattern



Posts: 354
Joined: 4/19/2003
From: Savaneta, ARUBA
Status: offline 		Hello Don Szczur,

I’ll will take a pic of what I use to enlarge the rear busing.
Wait a sec .
I’m assembelling it right now.

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       Post #: 34

RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/24/2004 5:50:20 PM   
Pro pattern



Posts: 354
Joined: 4/19/2003
From: Savaneta, ARUBA
Status: offline 		Hello Don Szcur,

This is how I did it. See pic for the assembly.
This will pass through the plane just like you will assemble the elevator push-rot.
But longer.
To do this you will need the following:
A 5mm drill, than you’ll need a coupler to hold the drill on the push-rod and with this
rod you will put it on a wood rood to extend it as long as it need to pass through the fuselage and still has a grip to hand drill the hole. See pic.
The wood is soft and off to do this by the hand.

So you will not need to drill a hole in the and of the fuselage to enlarge the Pushrod Bearing.

Hope this helps.

Danny

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< Message edited by Pro pattern -- 1/24/2004 1:51:57 PM >

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Nobody is perfect, I’m nobody
3rd place, is just 2nd best loser

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RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/25/2004 7:12:22 PM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Danny, I had drilled it before seeing your post. However, if I had already mounted the rudder I'd be using your technique. Thanks!

Attached is a drawing of what I did. It only took about 5 minutes and the results are pretty much invisible. Cut the covering away, drilled the hole, then folded the covering back and glued with a drop of CA.

Hinging...

I really like the directions. I've never done this right (always ended up with a little binding). What's the secret? The instructions state to bend the control surfaces and then put in the thin CA. I normally push the control surface in hard to reduce gap, and then drop in the thin CA, but there is no where for the surfaces to (give) and this creates the binding. By bending the surfaces first, it creates about 1/64th inch gap which gives the surface enough to move freely without binding.

Backing up a little, carefully drew a centerline on each wing and stab plus the rudder and single knife cut on the centerline resulted in well-centered contol surfaces. I cut the supplied hinges in half then glued them in 6 per surface. For the Stab and rudder, I put a hinge on each side of the control hard-points.

Finally sealing the gap with some transparent covering.

Mounted the elevator and rudder servos per instructions, from the bottom in the back bay, against the forward bulkhead of the rear bay.

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RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/25/2004 8:57:25 PM   
pminmo


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 11/6/2002
From: St. Peters, MO, USA
Status: offline 		I'm building one, and as this is my first pattern ship build up, I'd sure like to see some pictures of the finished linkages, radio installation, tank... If somebody would take some I'd post them on a website.

Phil

NSRCA newbie

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RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/26/2004 1:13:12 PM   
Jeff-RCU


 

Posts: 332
Joined: 3/8/2002
From: columbus, IN, USA
Status: offline 		I tried to tint my canopy yestserday with little success. It's been in the dye for 12 hours and is barely colored. I'm using the fabric dye that comes as a liquid and hot water?

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       Post #: 38

RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/26/2004 4:54:02 PM   
fishgod



Posts: 433
Joined: 12/5/2001
From: Wasilla, AK, USA
Status: offline 		If it has not taken dye it probably won't. Some plastics just wont take dye. You can try a little hotter water but you run the risk of deforming the canopy. I would paint the inside with lexan r/c car paint. Then you would'nt have to worry about messing up the dye job if a little fuel gets on it.


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Regards
Michael

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RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 1/26/2004 5:03:55 PM   
Jeff-RCU


 

Posts: 332
Joined: 3/8/2002
From: columbus, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks, I'm about over trying to dye it. My wife is having a fit about the plastic trash can in the laundry room with about ten gallons of disaster waiting to happen!