RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers  
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pattern Flying >> RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers
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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 2/29/2004 5:02:04 AM   
Eric.Henderson



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Mike,
I have learned not to crow about any good weather we have up here.... something about payback....

Hope you enjoy your Focus -2. I think they improved on the old one and the Temptation genes crossed over nicely...

Eric.

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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/3/2004 2:58:24 AM   
Jeff-RCU


 

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OK, I'm almost done. It's seems to be balancing per plans with the batterpack up front. How and where do you guys put the sleeve for the antena wire?

(in reply to Eric.Henderson)
       Post #: 102

RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/3/2004 4:00:23 AM   
Eric.Henderson



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It was not an easy route to make. Basically I drilled a hole in the fin base prior to gluing on the fin. Then I threaded the antenna tube up and over the fuselage formers and into that hole from inside the fuselage. I tacked the tube to the foam with some balsa scraps and epoxy. (Don't use CA).

This kept the antenna as far away as possible from the pull-pull wires.

Not pretty but effective.

Regards,

Eric.

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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/3/2004 12:24:46 PM   
Jeff-RCU


 

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Thanks, my usual forward planning has left me with a little problem doing that. I'll have to take a better look tonight.

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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/3/2004 3:59:37 PM   
Eric.Henderson



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You can still make a hole in the last former by using a sharpened 36" piece of 3/16" piano wire. Once through the bulkhead it goes into foam. Funnily enough, I had to open mine up that way due to glue blocking the original hole. The antenna tube can go right back to the stern/rudder post. That length of antenna tube matches the length of my antenna perfectly.

I used a vari-speed drill at slow rpm to get through the wood and finished it off by hand.

Regards,

Eric.

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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/5/2004 2:41:32 AM   
Mike Hill


 

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Well the snow has melted and I got to fly it today.





[image][/image]


Mike

< Message edited by Mike Hill -- 3/4/2004 9:55:18 PM >


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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/7/2004 11:20:40 PM   
Eric.Henderson



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My buddy Earl was up from Myrtle Beach this weekend, so I was "forced" to go flying in South Jersey. Sat it rained, Sunday turned out to be just right. (55F, winds SW 5-12mph)

I put the second flight on my Focus-2. Added a few trim clicks (beeps) and it was showtime! I tried to say that there was not much to report in the last post. What I finally figured out was that I really could not find anything to fix. Usually there is something to chew on but not with this ship.

I then copied it into Earl's 10X (He flies mode-2. We could use the buddy box but then he can't dial the throws to his taste. What we do is have both radios on the same frequency so that he can switch off and let my radio take over so I can do the landing honors!)

Earl put the plane though a series of rolls, snap, spins, KE's, up and downs etc. There wasn't anything aerodynamic that he wanted to change. I have always thought that it is a good idea to let someone else fly your plane, just to see if you are fooling yourself. I submitted earlier that this will become a great plane for all classes. It comes from a strong pedigree and there is not much for you to sort out.

My biggest mod was to enhance the ARF colors to get some differentiation from the std. ARF.

I hope you all have similar experiences.

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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/8/2004 6:23:15 PM   
Pro pattern



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Hello everyone,

I’m currently finishing my FOCUS II and now wonder how should fit the engine box.
( how much right and down trust should I be putting on to the engine box )

I don’t have a clue where I should start.
I’ll be using the Webra 1.60 Aero XP.
Could I use the info that Don has put in post Nr. 32 ?
Is that a good starting point for mine set-up, or should I use the stock setting “alignment" that the box came with??


Any info will be appreciated.

Danny

< Message edited by Pro pattern -- 3/8/2004 2:24:26 PM >


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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/8/2004 9:48:57 PM   
Eric.Henderson



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The good news is that the angles are all there for you. If you slide the pre-assembled piece into the slots it will give you the correct side and down thrust. Take care to put it in the right way up. The plane is supplied with 3 degrees side and 1 degree down.

I added 1/2 degree of side thrust for my 17 x 13 prop set up. All I had to do was trim a tiny amount from where the engine-box touches the front former on the right hand side.

The fuselage sides are parallel and the front former is square to the sides.

As another tip I found that the top deck cut line is also parallel to the bottom of the plane. Made alignment pretty straightforward.

Are you also asking about aligning the engine.???

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RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/8/2004 9:53:48 PM   
Eric.Henderson



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Current throws BTW are

Alierons 12 degrees
Elevator 14 degrees
Rudder about 2.5" each way (Just eyeballed it for now.)

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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/8/2004 11:01:17 PM   
Pro pattern



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Eric.Henderson

Are you also asking about aligning the engine.???





If it's posible that you could give me that, it will be great.


Danny

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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/8/2004 11:07:48 PM   
Pro pattern



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Any other opinion " setting [alignment] " will be also appreciated.


Danny

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RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/9/2004 3:09:12 PM   
Eric.Henderson



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Ref the fitting of the engine...

Putting the engine on the fire/engine/box can be very difficult, but if you follow this procedure you can ease the frustration.

1. Mount the engine on your hydemount.
2. Dry fit the firewall box
3. Install the cowl
4. Measure the distance from the cowl to the firewall. This distance should be the same as from the back of the mount to 1/16” short of the spinner backplate.
5. If it is not you can cut the firebox to move it back. Mine needed approx ¾” off for the OS 1.60. The tongues stick out more into the fuselage which is no big deal. You can cut them flush if you like.
6. You can glue the fire box in now. I just tack it at this stage in case I need to change it.
7. Point the fuselage up in the air and lay the mount and engine on the firewall.
8. Fit the cowl and spinner backplate.
9. Mark as best you can with a pencil approx where the mount sits.
10. remove the cowl and engine etc
11. A) If the Hydemount has a threaded hole in the backplate you will use it. The idea being that you will cut about a 3/8” hole in the firewall and F1 approx at center of the hydemount position. Then bolt the back of the mount (and engine) to the firewall using a large washer or ply plate. This will let you put on the cowl and spinner back on,
12. You have access to the bolt through the fuselage. Loosen the bolt and accurately position the engine to match the cowl and header exit etc. Then tighten the bolt.
13. Remove everything except the mount.
14. Drill the holes for the blind nuts etc.
15. Reassemble once more to check everything.
16. Proceed to add triangle stock and top and bottom covers on fire box etc,

11. B If it is a doughnut type back plate then make a 1/4” ply disk bigger than the hole and tap it for a ¼ x 20 wing bolt. Drill a 1/4“ hole in the firewall and F1. The plate will allow the mount to move and the bolt stays still.

Hope this helps

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If it has wings I''ll fly it....

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       Post #: 113

RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/9/2004 4:41:58 PM   
Pro pattern



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Thanks a lot Eric Henderson for the info.
It’s now crystal clear for me how I should do this now.

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Nobody is perfect, I’m nobody
3rd place, is just 2nd best loser

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       Post #: 114

RE: RE: RE: RE: FOCUS II ARF construction by-the-numbers - 3/9/2004 11:44:10 PM   
LeeDavis


 

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To mount the engine I drill a 1/4" hole on the face of the motor box. Use a 1/4-20 bolt with either a large washer or metal bar to temporarily secure the engine mount. Tighten the bolt enough so the mount will not slide on its own but you can still move it around the face of the motor box with your hand. I then tack the engine to the mount with a couple of drops of CA. You can guess pretty close to where it should be by measuring before hand.

Attach the cowl.

Slide the motor box fore and aft and move the engine mount until the spinner backplate aligns with the front of the cowl.

Remove the cowl and verify correct right thrust with the top and/or bottom motor box plates. Correct thrust is pre-cut on the front edge of the plates.

Mark everthing for permanent attachment.

It takes longer to type it than it does to do it.

Lee Davis
Piedmo