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A Glassing Question...? - 1/26/2004 8:37:01 PM   
Boss248



Posts: 401
Joined: 12/4/2003
From: River City, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I want to use 3/4 oz. cloth on a fuse that is solid balsa(no bays) and I remember reading somewhere in RCU where someone used something other than finishing epoxy. I seem to recall they used water based acrylic polyurethane from a can and brushed it on.
I want something that is easy to apply with no or little sanding needed after the cloth/resin has set up. Also I have been trying some different spray paints that I can buy locally but I keep seeing Rusto-leum's name pop up. Can someone that knows FOR SURE please tell me what paint they have found that is fuel proof. I know I can go the PPG route but I have to buy a pint at a time @ $30.00 a pint. I guess I can do the base painting with Rust-oleum or Krylon and get a pint of PPG clear which the paint shop can load into spray cans but I am open to other ideas.

Thanks
Boss
       Post #: 1

RE: A Glassing Question...? - 1/26/2004 8:51:23 PM   
barto



Posts: 519
Joined: 11/2/2002
From: Belgium, BELGIUM
Status: offline 		Cafeen is the man to answer your questions
This is his site www.airfieldmodels.com

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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 1/26/2004 11:03:30 PM   
HuskerBoy


 

Posts: 1576
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Macho Grande, KS, USA
Status: offline 		All the epoxy enamels are fuel proof and I've used Krylon lacquers too.
I'm not a fan of the Rustoleum since it is oil based and it's best to stay with their top colors.


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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 1/27/2004 1:45:20 AM   
Azcat59


 

Posts: 1008
Joined: 5/30/2002
From: Phoenix, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		One of the easiest ways to stick the light glass to your fuselage is nitrate airplane dope. Sig sells it, and there are other sources. Two coats on the raw wood, few hours apart, light sanding, drape the cloth over part of the fuselage, and apply the dope on top the cloth. It will soak right on through. Give it several coats of dope, very little sanding required, preferably no more than two coats a day. Then give the whole thing three days to chemically cure before you put anything else on.

Follow it up with the grey Rustoleum primer out of the spray can. It sands easily, and is fuel proof. I even use it for the grey color on the bottom of WW II warbirds, but spray on a light coat of Varathane satin finish poly-U to harden the primer slightly and protect any ink lines.

The Rustoleum colors in the spray cans are likewise fuel proof, at least with 10-15% nitro fuel, but I wouldn't pour raw fuel on them and leave it.

Clair
AMA 15654

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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 1/27/2004 6:01:07 AM   
FHHuber



Posts: 4931
Joined: 1/1/2003
From: gone, , USA
Status: offline 		You want to avoid the epoxy and/or poly resin... and still want a strengthening layer of cloth to aid in smoothing the aricraft... how about silk and yellow glue

Easy to sand.
LIGHT.
strong.
Inexpensive!

And you mix some yellow glue with talc and water for a fillercoat before your first fuelproofing/coloring coats, for a cheap, easy to sand light filler.

(based on tricks used in the 1930's using white glue. Yellow glue is superior to white for just about everything.)

The use of Nitrate Dope... similar, but more expensive. And you have to deal with the toxic base of the Dope. (which is flamable and smells like nail polish remover) And Dope NEVER stops cureing and never stops shrinking. Yellow glue stops shrinking in 24 hrs. any paint other than a laquer over Dope will eventually crack.

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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 1/28/2004 12:35:54 AM   
Boss248



Posts: 401
Joined: 12/4/2003
From: River City, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Does anyone else have any ideas or know about the use of water based poly urethane to go over 3/4 oz. cloth???????

Thanks for all the suggestions guys....


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Boss248
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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 1/28/2004 1:48:22 AM   
CafeenMan



Posts: 3907
Joined: 1/19/2003
From: Spring Hill, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Why does it have to be water-based polyurethane? No matter what you use to apply the cloth, you're going to have to do the same amount of sanding after it dries. There actually isn't much sanding to do if you put the resin or poly on properly.

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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 1/28/2004 7:41:33 AM   
Boss248



Posts: 401
Joined: 12/4/2003
From: River City, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Cafeenman...don't get me wrong...I have always used the method you described but I am only looking for an alternative. I have used the dope method and the white glue method all with success but I want to stay open to other ideas.


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Boss248
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       Post #: 8

RE: A Glassing Question...? - 1/28/2004 12:10:45 PM   
grahamd1



Posts: 934
Joined: 7/8/2002
From: East of England, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		I think the product your thinking of is Minwax, here in the UK it is no longer available (European rules), so a UK company mixed up an alternative, and added some extras. However its almost the same stuff.

Heres a link to a short article on how to apply it.

http://www.rcworld.co.uk/polyc.htm

I've been using the stuff for almost a year now on several differnt types of model, from all foam to scale WWII warbirds, and would need to be forced to go back to Epoxy. For smaller models (<70" I have now switched to using Tissue paper (shoes come wrapped in the stuff), as this only requires about 3~4 coats, and sanding can be done in minutes with little effort to achieve a very hard smooth finish.

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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 1/28/2004 1:45:00 PM   
Boss248



Posts: 401
Joined: 12/4/2003
From: River City, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Graham...that is the info I was looking for.
Ha ...the 3Styla is not looking to bad either. I have not seen it in ads here in the USA but I guess there are hundreds like it all over the globe.


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Boss248
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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 1/28/2004 2:31:00 PM   
grahamd1



Posts: 934
Joined: 7/8/2002
From: East of England, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Your welcome, the tail in the pictures is from my BF-109.

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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 2/1/2004 4:07:36 PM   
ZeppelinIII


 

Posts: 104
Joined: 7/23/2003
From: brookline, NH, USA
Status: offline 		I have done a couple of models using water-based polyurethane to put down 0.5 oz cloth (0.75 is basically the same)...to answer one question, the reason to use a water-based poly is for clean up, you can just rinse out your brush with water. As to the process, my opinion as too the best approach is to put on a light coat to get the glass down, and it'll take a few different pieces, so do all of them first with a single coat, then add a second light coat once the entire fuse/stab/wing/etc. (whatever you're working on) is done, then add a final coat of polyurethane mixed with corn starch....I prefer to add a heavier coat of that, and then sand more (to help even everything out, but if you put a very light coat of that on you could probably get away with very little sanding....

pic is best example I could find off hand, using that approach on the fuse of a sig Kavelier...

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 2/1/2004 5:37:35 PM   
Boss248



Posts: 401
Joined: 12/4/2003
From: River City, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Zepp...what do you use for the final color???....I did a test piece and it looks like it will work well but I was wondering about the Corn Starch...is that working as a filler to make sanding and filling of the grain.
I need to know what people are using as a final color or clear coat that is really fuel proof.


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Boss248
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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 2/1/2004 8:11:54 PM   
3dd



Posts: 884
Joined: 12/16/2002
From: pyote, TX, USA
Status: offline 		the only problem with water based products is the real chance that it will warp balsa planking even after it is glued down.solvent based sanding sealers will work better and will not warp anything.they do stink but the finished plane will be lite and have a good finish

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RE: A Glassing Question...? - 2/1/2004 9:56:31 PM   
Boss248



Posts: 401
Joined: 12/4/2003
From: River City, TX, USA
Status: offline 		You have a point...I did notice a warp because I was painting it over 1/16