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    • All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> ARF or RTF >> u-can-do 60
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    u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 4:02:38 AM   
    kroflite54


     

    Posts: 170
    Joined: 1/7/2002
    From: warren, OH, USA
    Status: offline     		just bought a u-can-do 3d 61.I am putting a 91fs surpass 2 in it and am curious as how well the engine runs inverted and starts.Any feedback would be appreciated.Its not the pumped version and is the covering on it monocote.I've read posts as to the right thrust and main gear problems and plan on glassing or using triangular stock to strenghen the area.anything else i should know?

    thanks .ken
           Post #: 1

    RE: u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 5:19:50 AM   
    taildragger21



    Posts: 502
    Joined: 6/24/2003
    From: park city, KY, USA
    Status: offline     		I have the same setup. Mine runs perfect with a good low idle. I use an os f plug.

    (in reply to kroflite54)
           Post #: 2

    RE: u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 5:22:10 AM   
    rfw1953



    Posts: 1346
    Joined: 7/9/2002
    From: Hampton Cove, AL, USA
    Status: offline     		I'm finishing up on mine and also put a 91 Surpass in it. I have the original version of this engine. NITB and just didn't have a model to put it in until I purchased the U-Can-Do. Honestly, I was pretty impressed with the model from the get go. Saw one fly at our field and liked the way it flew. I didn’t buy it to do 3-D, but sure I will experiment with it. Here are a few things I realized when assembling that may help.

    1. I used an OS aluminum engine mount that fit the pre-drilled holes perfectly. This does put the cowling back further. One thing to note here is that the sky blue covering is not lined up well even with the stock mount. If you use the aluminum mount this will be exaggerated in that this pulls the engine back more than the stock mount. I used sky-blue monocoat to fix this in the picture below.

    2. I did use the canopy glue and wish I hadn't. Even though it cures clear, it still shows up with a nasty appearance under the canopy against the dark blue covering. Fixed this with 3M pin-striping tape. If I had mine to do over again I would have placed scabs behind the fuse and installed the canopy before mounting the tank or anything else in the fuse. Do this early if you plan to use screws to mount the canopy.

    3. I also fiber glassed the wing in the middle on both sides to add strength.

    4. The directions say to mount the battery and the Rx under the wing hold down. I mounted mine forward of the wing saddle behind the tank and balanced right 5 7/8" as suggested in the book. I don't see how the guy in the directions can suggest mounting these under the wing hold down. Maybe I read this wrong, but the picture even shows this.

    5. Odds and ends - Put a True Turn spinner on to replace the plastic one. Also used a Sullivan 13 oz tank vs. the stock tank. Used solder clevises on 440 rods with threaded Sullivan threaded clevises on the adjustment ends for all control surfaces. Mounted a remote glow and used Slimline rubber wheels - same size. Hitec 475 servos with a 7 channel Futaba PPM Rx. Mixing the elevators on 2 and 7 and the ailerons on 1 and 6.

    I'm ready for the maiden flight hopefully tomorrow if the weather is good. Been cold and windy with rain in the forecast for tomorrow, but will see.

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    _____________________________

    Good Luck and Good Flying,
    Roger

    (in reply to kroflite54)
           Post #: 3

    RE: u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 5:24:11 AM   
    rfw1953



    Posts: 1346
    Joined: 7/9/2002
    From: Hampton Cove, AL, USA
    Status: offline     		I forgot to mention that I also put a fuel valve on that you can see in the pictures above. Below are the wing mods. I covered the top side of the wing over the fiberglass and then attached the belly pan over the fiberglass on the bottom side.

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    < Message edited by rfw1953 -- 2/1/2004 11:30:56 PM >


    _____________________________

    Good Luck and Good Flying,
    Roger

    (in reply to rfw1953)
           Post #: 4

    RE: u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 5:48:19 AM   
    autoguns



    Posts: 758
    Joined: 3/9/2003
    From: ANCH, AK, USA
    Status: offline     		I have had VERY good luck with the os 91 fs in the ucd3d ...However if you haven't bought the engine yet then go with the YS110fz I did a swap and found that the plane will hover @ 1/3rd throttle instead of 3/4 or more with the OS...The YS is the perfect engine for the ucd3d-60... I'm swinging a 16x6 APC prop, the OS liked the 14x6 top flite and the 14x4 APC....Good luck ...JW

    (in reply to kroflite54)
           Post #: 5

    RE: u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 8:16:12 AM   
    kroflite54


     

    Posts: 170
    Joined: 1/7/2002
    From: warren, OH, USA
    Status: offline     		thanks for your repies fellas..

    I am putting 605s on all controls except rudder which will have a hitec 645 mg ,i to am putting a remote glow on it and a fueler.As to glassing the center of wing ,Has there been reported prob with wing at center line or is this just your preferance.I don't plan on doing much in the way of extreme 3d.I just want a good honest flier.Did you glue your stab in place or use the supplied bolts RFW.Oh,what size props you fellas using?This is my first 4 stroke.


    thanks .ken

    nic pics RFW

    (in reply to autoguns)
           Post #: 6

    RE: u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 12:51:19 PM   
    lord lucan



    Posts: 716
    Joined: 1/16/2004
    From: England, UNITED KINGDOM
    Status: offline     		Cant believe i just "stumbled" across your info on th U-Can-Do !...finally managed to get one two weeks ago,exactly the same reasons for buying it as yourself,had a new O.S..91FSIIP 'in stock' so to speak and that O.S mount, but i thought that was going to be about an inch or so short ? I WAS going to use canopy glue, thanks ! Bought the 475's and tank last week, got some carbon fibre ( fiber ?! ) rods and M3 clevises yesterday ! and would you believe..i ordered the True Turn 'wide' cut spinner & a couple of Zinger 15x 6pro props from Tower round midnight last night !....Sounds like i've got the same R/C gear as you ...Now then !... how do i mix the elevator and ailerons ? is it PMX1..PMX2..or what ? i've wrestled with this one into the small hours, till i Knew i was the only one on the planet to stupid to grasp it ! regards sir !... & HELP !

    (in reply to rfw1953)
           Post #: 7

    RE: u-can-do 60 (reply to Lord Lucan) - 2/2/2004 3:15:06 PM   
    rfw1953



    Posts: 1346
    Joined: 7/9/2002
    From: Hampton Cove, AL, USA
    Status: offline     		You didn't mention which radio you are using. If you are using a Futaba Super 8 radio then you aren't stupid. It's not the easiest radio in the world to program. I guess this is why they came out with the 9-C, which will be my next radio when I feel the urge to splurge. For now, the S-8 is just fine for me.

    Here is all I did. Gee, where to start. Might be helpful if you have someone in your local club to walk you through each step, but I will try. Also not sure what you know and don't know about doing this.

    First thing I do is make sure the servos are in the neutral position and then check mechanically to be sure that all moveable surfaces are in the neutral position to the trailing edge of the wings, horizontal stabilizer for the elevators and the vertical stabilizer for the rudder. Then I begin program step.

    P-Mix 1 for elevators on channels 2 and 7 - You will need to reverse the slave servo. Then in ATV make sure both 2 and 7 at 100%. In PMIX-1 you will see a light blinking 'off' on the left side between PMIX-1 and ELV. With the '+ and -' keys change this to the 'ON' position Then using the 'cursor keys' go to the slave servo and then using the '+ and -' keys change this setting to ch-7. Using the cursor keys again go to the next setting which should be the throws. You will need to move the elevator stick to change from one servo to the next, and hold the stick in place while using the '+ and -' keys to set to +100% on each side. Next use the 'cursor key' to go to Link, Using the '+ and -' keys change to 'On'. Next, using the 'cursor key' go to Trim, and then use the '+ and -' keys to change to 'On'. Using the cursor key go to OFST and leave this at 0. Then set the PMIX by pushing both mode keys at the same time. Two steps left - Since the elevator servos are offset from each other you will notice the throw is slightly different from one elevator to the other. Use the ATV selection in the Basic Menu to adjust the high and low end for one servo only to get the throw to match the other servo. Otherwise the elevators will act like an aileron when you are trying to climb or descend. The next step is to set the throws to your liking and skill level. Maybe 100% throw on the elevators is too much to begin with. You will want to refer to the direction book for the proper throw settings for low rates. Same for Dual Rates.

    P-Mix 2 for ailerons channels 1 and 6 - follow the same steps as above but you won't reverse the slave servo. You will change the slave so it shows Ch-6 or flap servo. You won't have to make any adjustments for the servos being offset like you did with the elevators. Be sure to set the throws by the book or to your personal preference.


    _____________________________

    Good Luck and Good Flying,
    Roger

    (in reply to lord lucan)
           Post #: 8

    RE: u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 3:30:59 PM   
    rfw1953



    Posts: 1346
    Joined: 7/9/2002
    From: Hampton Cove, AL, USA
    Status: offline     		kroflite54 - I did epoxy the stab in place with the bolts as well. I pealed back the covering and then applied epoxy top and bottom. I had a bad experience with the Giles with a wing that sheared. Also many thread comments on wing failures with the Giles. I just always add this step as a mod in any ARF I put together these days. Interesting though, when I pealed the covering back on the wing I had a crack in the balsa right where the fuse would make contact with the wing in the wing saddle. This is why I do this now. Not aware of any history, but didn't want to take the chance. I learned this from 'Geistware' on an RCU thread. I also added thin pieces of tristock to the formers around the wing saddle. The fuse on this airplane, like the Giles, is very narrow in this area. With the long fuse there may be flexing that did happen in the Giles. The Giles has also broken in half at the formers fore and aft of the wing saddle because of this flexing and lack of strength in this area. Just an added precaution I chose to make. Yes, this all adds a bit of weight which I realize you don’t want in an airplane like this, but feel the weight is minimal vs. the added strength. Keep in mind that I still have not done the maiden on mine, but she is ready to go. Using an APC 14X6 prop. I have provided another picture of the remote glow set up from the back side. I used a piece of brass that is tied into the cowling mounting block and also one of the engine mounting bolts. This one will hold.

    Attachments
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    < Message edited by rfw1953 -- 2/2/2004 9:38:32 AM >


    _____________________________

    Good Luck and Good Flying,
    Roger

    (in reply to kroflite54)
           Post #: 9

    RE: u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 3:59:31 PM   
    AcroJo



    Posts: 2279
    Joined: 1/25/2003
    From: Clarks Summit, PA, USA
    Status: offline     		RFW, Of the 1000 + posts on the UCD this is the first mention of an aluminum engine mount. The supplied mount, aside from offering vibration isolation, also enables you to tap out for the engine mount bolts and drive them right in to the mount struts, resulting in the option of not useing the supplied nuts, realizing a weight savings. Small, but it does add up. With the supplied mount, you can still get the engine back to the firewall. On the canopy the only way to go is with the canopy glue. Unless a pilot is installed, many have just sprayed the inside of the canopy first with paint and the glue is not visible. I tried the screws, what a mistake. Although you did a beautiful job with the pin stripeing. As far as the wing, with a one piece spar its very tough. I have destroyed a fuse with no damage to the wing. On more severe impact the part of the wing that does survive is the center, due to the rib doublers in that area. I have a few. Radio gear placement is always different for balance even though this plane is a production line clone. Out of five of these they were all slightly different. 4/40 rods is surely the way to goe. I used a quick fueler but chose not to go with any more optional conviences for weight reasons. I did do a pull/pull on the rudder. Good luck on your maiden, you will love this plane!

    Kroflite, Unlike the forgiving wire landing gear of trainers which kept me in the air long enough to learn, any bolt on gear can get knocked off. The mount block is enginered as a shear block in the event of a rough landing, it will pop off without damaging the fuse too much. This plane lands like a feather and I have found that compared to other aluminum gear, the UCD gear is very forgiving and flexible. I havn't even had to bend one back into shape. ( even when destroying the plane) One tip that really works. Don't shorten the length of the axles. Drill a hole on the outside of the wheel pants inline with the other side and let that last 1/8" of axle stick out. Havn't lost a pant yet. Joe

    < Message edited by cumn thru -- 2/2/2004 11:05:05 AM >

    _____________________________

    Stranger in a strange place.

    (in reply to rfw1953)
           Post #: 10

    RE: u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 4:10:49 PM   
    SunShyne



    Posts: 3766
    Joined: 12/25/2002
    From: Centreville, VA, USA
    Status: offline     		thanks for the pics and info Roger. I am finishing up mine as well and have a details to go over before I maiden. Mainly the weather


    Joe/Roger I am contemplating taking out my 4/40 rods and going with carbon ones. I dont want to lose this thing cuz of a bent rod. I have heard even the 4/40's are prone to bending/snapping with this bird. I intend to fly the wings off it and my pursuit of being a 3D pilot so we will see



    matt

    _____________________________

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    Revver Bro #86

    (in reply to AcroJo)
           Post #: 11

    RE: u-can-do 60 - 2/2/2004 4:35:20 PM   
    AcroJo