RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710  
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RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 2/14/2004 11:52:57 PM   
lil_duece_coupe32


 

Posts: 7
Joined: 2/14/2004
From: , CA, USA
Status: offline 		Here is my input for what it is worth. Since everyone does have an opinion and there truly are so many cars out there that are awesome and all of them are different, I won't be pushing a car in particular but more so how to decide on your own.

I have a NTC3 RTR that I got as a Birthday present last December and I personally love it. I took alot of time at my LHS when I chose this car. I decided on this car based on it being recommended by the store workers after I (repeating I) told them what I wanted. They have at least 75 models there that I could have chosen but only one that fit MY needs. So when you look around, first decide what YOUR needs are. Just like buying a real car, you must personally know what you are looking for and know what you don't want to deter the saleman from pressuring a different car. First off, I too knew that I love to work/build my own cars. I wanted a fast car, easy to work on, non belt driven, proven design, and loads of hop-up options available. I know what most people are already thinking....WHY THE HECK DID YOU CHOOSE A CRUDDY RTR? Well, simple and logicle! I know the RTR is lesser in durabilty as well as price. I KNOW I will be crashing and replacing parts left and right eventually. At the same time, I am LEARNING THE CAR!!! I have taken my car apart completely bolt for bolt at leat 50 times and I must say I have had a blast doing it! Just because it is an RTR does not mean YOU CANNOT take it apart and have fun with it. And it may save you tons of money in the long run! This path was best for ME but do what feels right for you. Since I have bought my car I have upgraded quite a few things and I bet I CAN BEAT JUST ABOUT ANYTHING THAT I FIND MYSELF UP AGAINST at my local track. Yes, I lose at times...but not too often. The hobby itself is what drives us all here right?

Keep all this in mind when you start asking for opinions...be very open minded and realistic about what you want and dont want. Stay away from BUYING THE MOST OUTRAGEOUS kits out there full of hop-ups and all that great stuff unless you know for sure everything in it is what you want. Otherwise, in the long run you are wasting money. My car is now approximately only 25% RTR stock and I now have tons of spare parts for repalcement at the track if I do break my hop-ups. Since new though, I have only broken one RTR stock Shock Tower and Arm...but even an aftermarket hop-up will break at 35+mph...."ooops". So dont be too worried about fragility of RTR's either. I mean to fix it was only $8.00 anyway. I have since put about $600 into my car including the new radio and the car is all custom for me! I Built IT!!!! It's awesome!!!! And I'll race it against anyone who claims other cars are better. Maybe they are, maybe not, but I'll shred tires with them anyway!!!

So whether you are considering kits, rtr, NTC3, GT-4, Team Associated, OFNA or anything...it doesnt matter...know what you want in YOUR car first. Everyone changes their NEW 1/1 Scale CAR when they buy it anyway right? I mean they are RTR too...and I changed My intake, exhaust, wheels, radio etc there. Why would it not apply here too? I hope some of this helps and makes sence. Have fun!!! Deciding is the best part anyway!!!!!!!!! Good luck and happy racing!

(in reply to rscarawa)
       Post #: 26

RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 2/15/2004 1:17:18 AM   
Blackjaxx360



Posts: 403
Joined: 6/18/2003
From: Allentown, PA, USA
Status: offline 		How did the 4-tec get into the comparison????

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RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 2/15/2004 6:13:11 AM   
dgmorr29


 

Posts: 76
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Mississauga, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		The NTC3 is fragile??? I don't know about that. I was coming around the bend on my street at full throttle and full speed, it then did a 180, and crashed at full speed into the curb backwards!!! No protection back there! The only thing i broke was the rim and the hub carrier. I was expecting a full write off. But anyhow, this is my first nitro car, and I love it.

What would be a recomendation for a second? I am just in it for fun. Race my friends for fun. I really like the LD3. Any other in comparison to price and quality...etc?

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RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 2/16/2004 4:15:33 AM   
lil_duece_coupe32


 

Posts: 7
Joined: 2/14/2004
From: , CA, USA
Status: offline 		DGMORR..i had the same result once when i slid rearwards!!! At about 25mph...only a broken rim too...no biggie...LOL

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RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 2/16/2004 12:57:32 PM   
rscarawa


 

Posts: 543
Joined: 1/26/2004
From: Dallas, NC, USA
Status: offline 		I saw on some of the NTC3's that the ring gear in the differential is made of plastic. In which kits are they made of metal? I had heard that is a weak point if the differential is tight.

Scot

< Message edited by rscarawa -- 2/16/2004 8:23:13 AM >

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RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 2/16/2004 4:25:57 PM   
eMeNeX



Posts: 10
Joined: 10/14/2003
From: Queens, NY,
Status: offline 		Scot.

Almost every Touring car out there has a plastic Spur gear. Because Aluminum isn't good for gears, metal spur gears are made of hardened steel. Hardened steal is pretty heavy in comparison to plastic. A metal spur gear isn't needed on a touring car because they don't go through the same type of load that say a buggy or truck does. A plastic gear on a buggy or truck will strip due to the load that is put on the car. Such as hills, climbing, going over rocks, jumps, and other offroad abuse. One important thing is to make sure that you set the gear mesh properly. To set a proper gear mesh put the engine in place and hold the spur gear so that it does not move. then with your free hand turn the clutch bell (where the metal gears that are on the engine are) back and forth a little. If you can feel a little bit of play between the gear's teeth than you're good to go. If there is no play then your mesh is too tight which will cause binding which will slow your car down and increase the chances of stripping the gear. Make sure that it's not too loose when the gear doesn't spin the spur gear and breaks the tips of the teeth off.



Tom

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       Post #: 31

RE: RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 2/16/2004 5:09:25 PM   
Nitroaddict



Posts: 3452
Joined: 7/17/2003
From: Round Rock, TX, USA
Status: offline 		In addition to eMeNeX's response, which is spot on - An easy way to set gear mesh is the famous paper trick. Simply insert a small strip of notebook paper between the gears, then tighten. When the paper is removed, the mesh will be perfect, usually.

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RE: RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 2/16/2004 5:13:25 PM   
rscarawa


 

Posts: 543
Joined: 1/26/2004
From: Dallas, NC, USA
Status: offline 		But the gear I am referring to is the ring and pinion gear in the differential. Not the gear coming off the engine going to the transmission.



Scot

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RE: RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 2/16/2004 6:23:44 PM   
eMeNeX



Posts: 10
Joined: 10/14/2003
From: Queens, NY,
Status: offline 		Scot,


What I said about the spur gear also holds true for the ring and pinion gear in the differential... As long as you lube the diffs with a good lube such as lithium grease, or associated's "stealth grease" which is pretty much the same thing, you won't have to worry about those gears. The only time you'd have to worry is if you get dirt in the housing, or your gears aren't lubed and they get hot and warp from lack of lube. What you might want to do is get a couple of extra chassis screws for the NTC3 and plug the open hole on the top of the diff housing to keep any dirt out. The reason for that open hole is for the Electric TC3, as these diffs are universal. The ring and pinion gear should not be tight and bind at all. They ride on Bearings which keeps them in place and running smoothly... If there is any binding, it might be due to a high spot on the gear. If that's the case try to mesh that high spot to a low spot on the connecting gear. Or file down the high spot using minimal amounts of filing. Better to under file then over file. But once again these gears from the factory seem to mesh fine. No need for metal gears in the Diffs, unless you're going to be using your touring car as a rally car and plan on some offroad abuse. In which case just get an Ofna Ultra GTP since it's a buggy converted to be a somewhat touring car. (take that as sarcasm... that car is a disgrace) You could always get delrin gears, which are lighter and stronger as well as self lubricating although you'll want to lube them a little, but not necessary.


Tom

(in reply to rscarawa)
       Post #: 34

RE: RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 2/16/2004 6:49:14 PM   
rscarawa


 

Posts: 543
Joined: 1/26/2004
From: Dallas, NC, USA
Status: offline 		They make a delrin rear for the diff case?


Scot

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Scot

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RE: NTC3 vsHPI EVO vs Traxxas 4-tech vs Serpent 710 - 3/11/2004 1:17:16 AM   
nitrospeed3306


 

Posts: 2
Joined: 3/10/2004
From: melville, NY, USA
Status: offline 		The ideal car for me is the 4tec right now. Before everybody boo's me and trashtalks, I would like to simply say in agreement to lil coupe that I based this strictly on what I wanted : Fun. I want to be able to just run my car on the streets or occasionaly in parking lots against others, but most of all i wanted to just have a blast doing it. I just want you to know as well, that the 4tec is not all that bad. For somebody like me that uses it for recreation, its really great. It may not be the best for racing, but it does too have a heck of alot of hop-ups. I find this hobby fun and new for me and I was recommended the traxxas by my LHS. I really must say I wasnt expecting this and thought he might try to sell me an HPI, but I was won over by the traxxas. (Although I have heard storys of some traxxas 4tecs winning races at the track too.) They are certainly not last in the herd of RC cars but not first either. For your situation (and i have done a TON of research), I would either suggest an HPI r40 or a Tc3 for starting. This is just my opinion and I respect everyone elses out there too. As of now I just use my Traxxas happily on the streets and find no problams with the belt system, but I might get into competitive racing soon and change cars.
Thanks for listening and if you have any opinions or suggestions for me seeing as im an entry level in racing (but know very well how to drive) please leave me a message. I just signed up to RCuniverse and I have learned so much by talking to other people.
Nitrospeed3306

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       Post #: 36

NTC3 ENGINE BREAK-IN - 3/11/2004 1:52:40 PM   
pit_basher


 

Posts: 131
Joined: 2/19/2004
From: Green Cove Springs, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Im about to do the break-in on my stock NTC3. Can anybody tell me the factory settings for the the needles? Also if I can get some input on a proper break-in. Thank You

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