Steve Campbell
Posts: 4195
Joined: 12/8/2001
From: Zachary,
LA, USA
Status: offline
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Tex, as to fuel, I run mine on 10% Omega. And you can go back and forth between nitro contents at will. Just give the engine a few tanks to settle in with the new fuel before doing any serious needle-tweaking.
Now, some will vigourously disagree with the above. It is true that an engine from which you are trying to extract the absolute last bit of performance out of, such as a racing engine, needs to be pampered with one specific fuel blend, nitro content, oil, etc. But for "bashing" or general sport use, it just isn't that big of a deal. These little engines are remarkably resilient, and as long as you don't run them too hot they will give you good service over a wide range of use parameters.
Personally, I am FIRMLY convinced that the great majority of all this fuel hype is controversy created by marketers and fuel-mongers. I realize that this is probably throwing a grenade into the hen house, but, at least in the US, the pricing structure of fuel tells the story. Specialized "car fuel" costs up to twice as much per gallon as "airplane fuel"; yet it has LESS oil and equal or less nitromethane.
All I know is this; when I got my first r/c car a bit over three years ago, I bought a gallon of "car fuel" and was quite surprised to see that a gallon of 10% nitro Blue Thunder cost $6 more than a gallon of 15% Cool Power. The engine was obviously running hot, and that's when I discovered that the 'car fuel' only had 14% oil content. I began running that "awful" airplane fuel in it, with 18% oil, and haven't looked back. You read it all the time in fuel ads, magazines etc.; "Running airplane fuel in your car/truck will ruin the engine." That statement, Tex, is pure and absolute BS.
In over three years of running a couple of stadium trucks, and 17 years of running airplane and helicopetr engines, I have switched nitro contents, many times, for various reasons, and it simply isn't an issue in terms of engine reliability. Performance will differ, certainly. But you won't damage anything.
"Bleeding" shocks refers to getting all the air bubbles out before you close it up. Basically, you leave the plunger all the way down while filling the body almost to the top. Now, slowly move the plunger up and down a few times, "pumping" it so any air bubbles will be moved to the surface of the shock oil. Then top off the oil and screw the top on. Depress the plunger as far as it will go; you want to get a quarter-inch of rebound at least. This is for off-road stadium trucks, which is the limit of my land vehicle experience. I'm sure track cars, etc., are different.
I agree with you regarding a two-speed tranny for the MT2. It would probably be more trouble than its worth. For that matter, hard driving is, I think, the reason for the diff problems with the MT2. I run mine on the street and in grass; no jumping or other exteme stuff, and my diffs are still good.
Now, I am NOT saying that HPI should be absolved of responsibility; this thing is billed as as off-road vehicle, so it should stand up to some abuse.
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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Nitro Stadium Trucks >> RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread 
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread - 
Has anyone had any experience with diff locking grease? I was looking on badhorsie.com at their shock socks and saw said grease, and am tempted to try it in the rear...