jpmorgan

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Can someone give the specs. to this kit?
Iron Bay list the kit but no specs. as of yet.
Surley somebody here will know.
Thanks,
Perry

fireflyer

Span= 75"
length= 58"
power= (2) 40's
Weight= 10.5 lbs (wishful thinking) I've heard of them coming in at 15 lbs. and more.

six channels with retracts and flaps. about a 40oz wing loading.

jpmorgan

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fireflyer,
thanks for that information.
I suppose that 40 OZ. wing loading is a bit much?
You wouldn't want to tip stall that one one hu!
Perry

kingair41

My Feedback: (13)

Perry, I have built three baron 58 models and powered them with 46's up to 61's. Iron Bay has no intentions on producing this kit in the near future. You'r best bet would be searching e-bay for any left over kits. Mine came in at 15lbs and flew very nice. I'll try to get some pics here for you if you'd like.
Doane

Homebrewer

My Feedback: (8)

I got one that is about 90% built. Only thing left is to sheet the wings which depends on choice of retracts or fixed landing gear and do final sanding. I'd like 150 for it plus shipping. I got twice that for the kit and the labor (I hired somone to build it).


OOPS, just realized my kit is a Royal kit. Sorry!

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Doane
I just bought a Byron 58 and it weighs 16 lbs with a bunch of nose weight about a pound in it. The plane was supposely flowen if it has it has been a long time. Where did yours ballance at? Is there any thing else that I should be aware of?
I have flown several twins with pretty good luck. The Baron has OS 46fx , pluss flaps and retracts. Thanks

kingair41

My Feedback: (13)

rich,
My aircraft flew on 46's on up to 61's. Mine were all decked out with cockpits and interiors, flaps, retracts,navs strobes and landing lights. you'll want to pull the 46's and install 61's as the results were immediate. Use 10-15 degrees of flaps on takeoff and use full flaps with 1/4-1/3 throttle on landing. Keep both 46's running as they will be working hard to fly the plane. Use 2 bladed props though I used 3 bladed on my 61's. I even contacted Beechcraft and received some brochures and paint schemes used on the plane. Keep the power up with those engines and be absolutely sure of their reliability. I had a couple of engine outs with the 46's but was able to save the plane each time. When I up graded to 61's it was like night and day. You may want to do the same especially if you fly from grass as I do. I have a couple of pics if you're interested that I can email you if you'd like. Good luck.
Doane

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Doane
Thanks for the info. I sent you a PM.

clscale-RCU

My Feedback: (7)

One thing my friend and I noticed that the wing chord is too small. the wing outline is flat wrong. My flying buddy who built the Royal Baron kit who also looked at the Bryon kit discovered that the wing outline was not correct on the byron kit.

He took a Beechcraft factory 3-view and compared it to the Bryon kit. He noticed that they took a wing and then added a extension of foam to get the correct span, but the wing chord is too small. He ended up buying a Byron kit and will use the fuselage from the kit but will cut a entirely new wing for the model so that it matches the 3-view.

We forwarded the factory 3-view to Bob Banka if you need a copy of this 3-view. (www.bobsairdoc.com). If you compare the fuselage width, and other dimensions you will find the wing chord is too small.

The aircraft that we saw fly took off with grish 3-bladed props that did not give enough thrust and it stalled and crashed nose first.

Based upon the research we did, the kit is great, but it needs a new wing that which will also decrease the wing loading. Also use a prop at creates some thrust.

Good luck!

Ch0pp3r

My Feedback: (3)

I have a Byron Beech Baron 58 kit. I bought it 8 months ago on ebay. Only the wings were completed when I bought it. The fuse is still NIB. I decided that I did not like the job on the wings and ordered a new pair from Iron Bay along with some 64th ply and a few small parts. So essentially, I have a new kit.

Having read this thread, I am interested in hearing about how they fly and possibly some photos. I am also curious about the .60 engines vs the .40-.46 class. Also, what about the prop clearances with the .60 size? If going the .60 route, are 3 bladed props more feasable? I know a 2 bladed prop would be more efficient all things being equal.

Concerning documentation, I am searching for a Navy version, primary instrument trainer. I have photos of the Army version. I have also seen Navy Beech Kingair photos. It just seems I can never find the stuff I need. Maybe I should choose my next plane on the documantation first. Then I am sure I would never find a kit.

kingair41

My Feedback: (13)

Flying barons for 16 years or so you'll want take the 40's and toss them and replace with 60's. Since yours is new take the nacelles and reinforce them on the inside with two coats of 2oz glass cloth. Also overlap the lip on the nacelle where it joins the wings with 2oz glass as well. Protect those fuel tanks good with rubber foam and when you strengthen the inside of the nacelles be sure to overlap the plywood ring ( firewall ) too because the engine mounts to those rings. The heads will stick out of the cowls allowing good cooling. I decked mine out with every thing I could get my hands on, so the added power paid off. If you see another one let me know. Iron Bay told me they have no intentions of reproducing this fine aircraft any time soon.

Ch0pp3r

My Feedback: (3)

Wow, excellent information!
When you speak of glassing the nacelle where it joins the wing, do you mean to glass the outer edge of the nacelle to the wing when I also glass the wing? Also, the full scale version has fairings on the outboard only sides of the nacelles to the wing. I could replicate this in glass.
I too have a McDaniel full lighting system, interior etc. that came with the kit when I purchased it on ebay.
Have you tried running three bladed props on the .60's?

If you like you can reply offline to me at [email protected] if you think it's appropriate.

Do you have any more detailed photos of your Baron's? The paint on the one I saw looks fantastic. I have a million questions... Being a twin I assume it's pretty fast. A duelist is my only twin experience. I had much trouble making high speed passes due to flutter on the elevator. I never solved it but my building skills are a little better than ten years ago. How is the low speed flight performance at 15 lbs.?

Thanks, Chuck

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Chuck
Was ther any other parts avaible from Iron Bay for the Baron? What did they charge you for a new wing. I was thinking fo redoing the wing on the Baron I have. Thanks

rvnrcer

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Thanks for the info. I bought one on Ebay too and would like to read anything you can post. Pics too.

Keith

Ch0pp3r

My Feedback: (3)

Iron Bay only has a few left over parts and tid-bits. 5 months ago I purchased a pair of foam wing cores. They were damaged during shipping. The replacment cores were not as nice and they said they might be out at left wings at that point. So, they may not be available now. I also got a replacment abs belly pan. I believe the wings were $48 or $58 each, including the tip extensions to convert them from bonanza to baron. I am leaning towards the later. I had to get the large size sheet 1/64th ply from National Balsa.

I am interested in hearing about landing gear choices and experiences.

Chuck

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Chuck
Thanks for the info on the wings. My Barron has Rom air retracts and them seem pretty light for this size of bird. Hopefully we will find out how they work this week.

kingair41

My Feedback: (13)

Guys,
The rhoms worked OK. I upgraded mine to spring air units which fit in the same mounting holes to simplify the gear operation and to increase their reliability. Less moving parts and sturdier as well.
Use 3/16" gear on the lite side. Grease the landings and check the struts often to make sure they stay straight to retract in the wells.

Ch0pp3r

My Feedback: (3)

Can somebody tell me what the difference is between all the different Springair units? I know some are different sized. The gear mount size on the Baron is 1" X 1 3/8". There is more than one Springair unit this size. Some are wire and some are oleo. Which is prefered and what model is best on the Baron?

Chuck

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

I just found out that the wing on my Baron wasn't sheeted with anything. Just covered with fiberglass cloth. He said this is normal for Byron kits. That seems a little strange. I think it would be easer to build a new wing than try to redo this one. Does anybody else cut foam wings for Byron kits? Thanks

Ch0pp3r

My Feedback: (3)

Nobody else cuts wings for the Byron Beech Baron that I have ever heard about. I do have a brand new pair of foam cores including the extensions. You could take measurements from them if you need to do so.

I also have the originals. They are not crashed and have never even flown. They just were not contructed to a professional manner that I like. I could sell them or better yet, I could cut them up into slices to make measurements to build a wooden built up wing.

I am willing to help in some way if need be. BTW, great looking Baron you have there. It it crashed or still flying?

Chuck

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks Chuck
I haven't flowen the Baron yet. I bought it finished from another modler. There is a crack in the wing just pased the engine necesel. I have patched the wing with Epoxy. I plan on flying it this week. If I like the way it flys I would like to build another wing. I would be interested in buying your spar wing. I would make a coulpe changes like seperate servos for the engines and servos for each aileron. I would beef up the necesels to take 91 4stroke . I will keep in touch thanks

clscale-RCU

My Feedback: (7)

Just a word of caution about the wings on that kit:

The original kit wing chord is too small and even the span isn't right. My friend has one of these kits and found that the tail (elevator and rudder) has the correct scale outline and even the fuselage is correct.

However the wing outline is way off and is too small. If you check the model against a Baron 58 3-view and use the fuselage as a reference point the wing is too small.

The wing chord and span need to be adjusted. A new foam wing could easily be cut to match the 3-view and the bonus part is that you will have more wing area and the wing loading will go down.

Bob Banka at Bob's aircraft documention has a 3-view that was done from a factory 3-view. Get hold of Bob at...

www.bobsairdoc.com

Good luck and cut a new wing, the model will fly better.

Don Perry

My Feedback: (51)

I have two Byron Barons, puls two real ones a 1965 B-55 & a 1981 B-58.

i am stripping one and having it repainted to match my real B-58.

I have the full interior kit with lights strobes, flaps and retracts on both. One is powered with OS and the other is powered with Super Tiger.

I plan on keeping the 40 size engines for the scale look.

Hope to fly one this week or next week.

Pics in my gallery and on my web page

http://www.rnlinc.com/rc/rc.htm

Don
www.rnlinc.com

Ch0pp3r

My Feedback: (3)

Baldeagle, Have you flown your Baron yet? Please do report all the details. I am planning to start building mine in October. Unless you think it's a turd, then I might reconsider.

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Chuck
I have been out twice to fly the Baron . The first time we had about a 20 mph cross wind and the second time I had a problem with the right engine, Clunk stuck in the tank. I prefer a little wind on a heavy bird like the Baron it helps slow it down on landings. But not a crosswind on a new bird. We fly at 6000 ft so fast landings are pretty common. I will try again Wedsday and let you know. Thanks