novabill
Posts: 1773
Joined: 9/17/2003
From: Hudson,
FL, USA
Status: offline
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I had a couple P.M.s from people wanting a little more info on the build process and thought I'd post my reply
The rods are .156 and that equates to 5/32. You do'nt have to use a pull-pull on the rudder, I just thought it was cool. I have all the rudder I need at appx 50 degree throws and I have never doubled up on the coro. It is plenty strong with one layer of 4mm. Go to chrisspad's website and borrow his fuse drawing for the coro-edge. Then, figure how long you need it. (front of fuse at edge of motor plate and rudder hinge at the end of EFI fuse) work out the percentage to enlarge and take it to the UPS store and for $3 you'll have a perfect outline. Or, print it and use to freehand the fuse like I did. Remember this spad stuff is all TLAR (that looks about right) on the rudder, just make it big and make it extend down to the bottom of the coro fuse, so you are getting rudder above and below the horizontal stab. Drill the aft stab hole 1/8-1/4 from the rear of the fuse and the front one to fit the front flute of the stab half. The elevator part of the stab hangs behind the fuse. With the extra 10 or so SQin on the stabs and extra inch on the fuse, I think yours will fly better than mine and that's hard to inagine. It's funny you mention encasing foam in coro for the fuse, because this is the construction method for my next plane. It will add alot of complexity to the build and 4mm would not be a good idea for the skins. It will be a 60" span with airfoiled wings that plug in. But, hey let's get through this one first. I will provide you with the bellcrank diagram shortly and as for hardware dor it, use only 4-40 threaded rod and ball links and sockets. Mine has too much play and will be converted to this.
Build the wing first, and make sure you put the wing inside to dry. I left mine in the garage for 4 days at 38 degrees and it never cured. One day inside and it was hard as nails. When tou have the two foam peices laminated for the wing spars, sand a leading edge in them and figure out where you want a compartment for your rx and batt. The coro wont perfectly follow the LE of the foam when dry, but will be close. Please dont try to glue it without really woodpeckering the coro surfaces to be glued. This is the secret to having a strong joint.
While the wing is curing, finish the rest of the plane. What I do, is make all the rest of the parts. I mount the motor to the mount, put a prop on it and collect a fuel tank. Make your servo cut-outs in the fuse and mock-up the stabs. When the wing is cured, slide it on (This will lift the coro slightly at the cutout, dont worry) and slide in the motor/mount assy. and rubberband the fuel tank on. Balance at 6" form the LE for starters using the wing to achieve balance. Oh, the filler peice for the motor mount is also made from poly with two screws countersink to attach itto the mount. Here's my theory,the rudder and horns and pushrods and tail skid will make up the weight of the LG and screws. It worked for me and the RX and batt offset the servos for the wing. To perminately mount the wing, put a generous ammount of goop on the wing where it meets the fuse and slide the fuse through from the back of the wing and wipe off residue goop with mineral spirits. Use two #6 screws with pvc backers one at back and one up front.
For hinging the elevators, hinge like you normally would. That's all for now, let me know if you need more help.
William
P.S. Emmitt, did you get the fax?
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design >> RE: SPA3DEFI-PROFILE-Flight Report & Pics 
RE: SPA3DEFI-PROFILE-Flight Report & Pics - 
RE: SPA3DEFI-PROFILE-Flight Report & Pics - 
