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Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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I've never done this before, but I thought I would share my construction steps of the World Models Super Sports Senior with you guys...
The ARF comes in a single box, well packed and extreamly complete down to the fiberglass cowl and pants and even a painted pilot figure! All of the parts are packaged in a logical manner so when you build the kit, it's easy to find things, and more importantly, not to lose them!
The first thing I noticed was the construction of this pretty plane, WONDERFUL! This is a very well built plane with smart use of lite ply. The grade of balsa and ply is very good to excellent. All of the joints were glued well with an unidentified epoxy type resin, not hot glue.
The covering is another Ultracoat/Oracover derivative. I tested it at 300 degrees and it irons out nicely. Of course there were no wrinkles on the plane at all! The covering job is excellent, say, 9 out of 10.
I would rate the hardware 7 out of 10. This usually means for me that I will use most of the hardware while tossing some. I believe in this case if you used all of it, you would not be dissapointed, I just am pickey about some things.
Although built well, this plane will come out light even with the RCS 1.44 that I plan to put on it. With the large wing, (over 1000 squares), the wing loading will be light and it will have no problem landing like a trainer.
Here are the weights of the parts in oz. to give you a feel for what it will weigh with your setup.
Vertical Stab 2.3 Horiz Stab 5.7 Right Wing 17.5 Left Wing 17.2 Cowl 4.5 Pants 2.0 Pilot 1.0 Canopy 3.1 Hardware Pack 21.2 WIng TUbe 4.0 Fuse 23.2 Decals 2.3 TOTAL---------------------------- 104 oz. *16 = 6.5lbs (no engine or electronics)
Posts: 725
Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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The manual is sparce at best with very little if any descriptive text. If you have ever built a Kyosho ARF, you will recognize this construction guide. It looks like the same person wrote it, (or drew it) The nice thing is that the plane is so easy to put together, you almost don't need a guide, and the drawings while not descriptive, are detailed enough to guide you along in the construction.
The first thing I did was cut a small hatch in the bottom front of the fuse. I did this for two reasons, first, I wanted access to the RCS electronics without digging in from the center of the fuse. Secondly, it made it easier to work on the firewall which I wanted to reinforce because of the gas engine.
The firewall is plenty sturdy, but I glassed it anyway. I also used about 1 oz. of 2 hour eposy thinned out 30/70 with alcohol and brushed it on the forward hatch and wing saddle area. I usually reinforce the wing hold down, but this one is very beefy, so I just coated it for good measure.
(don't be fooled by the discoloration of the wood in the pic, I had just epoxy coated it when I took the pic....)
< Message edited by pequeajim -- Jun 26 2002 12:23PM >
Posts: 725
Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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The wing is a two piece fit with a fairly heavy wing tube. The tube slides into the phenolic receivers snugly, but not too tight. The dihedral is pre set and the rear alignment dowl fits perfectly. The wing fits perfectly in the saddle.
Once you slide the wing halves together, you just bolt the wing in place with two hold down bolts, just like any 40 sized plane, neat!
Posts: 725
Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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Man, they installed the hinges for me! THANKS! Heavy ones too!
Since the hinges were already installed, (and checked with a good yank!), the next step is to install the servo, and control horn. The included hardware looks a little like a Rocket City post type of horn and installs easily. I like this type of control horn as it allows you to "fine tune" your aileron throw by adjusting the height of the link on the post. This way you can closely match your aileron differential pretty easily A little hint here. When you cut out the covering over the servo well, start at each corner and cut and "X". Now iron down each piece of excess covering inside the well. This will keep the covering from lifting later in flight.
Another nice touch is the fishing line that they placed in the wing so I could easily pull my servo extension through. I used an 18" extension. Make sure you wrap the connector with tape which will help to keep it from coming apart.
I'm using Hitec 605s on the ailerons. They have plenty of torque for this application. Of course I'm not flying IMAC competitions with this plane anyway, so they will work just fine.
Install the servo, arm and control rod. The control arm should be pointing to wards the wing tip, not the fuse.side. Place the control horn on the aileron and line it up with the control rod. The rod should be parallel with the servo side. Now mark the holes with a fine felt tip marker. Drill through the hardwood insert and screw it together and you're done.
One note here... There are two different lengths of screw, 20mm and 25mm. The two longer screws go in closest to the hinge line and the smaller one to wards the back edge of the aileron. Don't screw them down too far as you can crush the wood. You should have about 2-3mm of screw sticking out of the bottom piece, that's it.
(more tomorrow...)
< Message edited by pequeajim -- Jun 26 2002 12:27PM >
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Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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Well, I finally ran into something with this model that I do not like. Althought not a big issue, the landing gear wire axle section is a tad bit too long and the inside of the wheel pant needs additional support, (more on this later). Otherwise, the gear wire is robust and the pants look like a new car, perfect. I just want them to stay that way.
The next step for me was to attach the landing gear wire. The gear is supported by a generous hardwood block and slides into this with a perfect and snug fit. You hold it down with some gear hold downs and heavy screws.
(I wish that these guys would use socket heads instead of phillips!!)
When you cut the covering before putting the wire in place, just make a single slice right down the middle. The gear will mash it down from there, and you will have a little protection from the fuel. Make sure you pre-drill the hold down holes so you will not crack the hardwood.
Now on the Pants, I felt like I needed to add a little ply to reinforce the locking hole inside the pant. See the pic. I just cut a rectangle and drilled the hole to fit. I then pushed it on the axle and glued and clamped it in place. Then I pulled out the axle, simple and adds support.
In order to make the pant fit correctly on the gear wire, I had to grind the end down about 5mm. No biggie, grinder and 30 seconds was all it took. (Thanks Mom for the grinder!)
< Message edited by pequeajim -- Jun 26 2002 12:30PM >
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Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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The pants are really pretty and the fix makes them a little more impervious to breakage. I did however, have to sand down one of the wheels about 2 mm as it was binding on the top of the pant once mounted.
When attaching the pant to the landing gear wire, be careful to drill the pilot hole for the screw, and then drill a shallow hole that is just under the size of the screw that you are attaching the pant with. The bigger hole and a little masking tape will help to keep the pant from cracking.
You can see in the pic that I had a brain cramp and forgot this on the first pant I did. After going back and doing it the right way, I added a little 2 hour epoxy with a 55% epoxy/45% hardener over top to keep the crack from going any farther.
Here's what the pant looks like with the wheel installed.
< Message edited by pequeajim -- Jun 13 2002 1:12PM >
Posts: 725
Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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The horizontal stab and elevator are already hinged. Give them a yank to make sure everything is glued in properly.
Now you need to make a decision as to if you want a removable, or a permanent stab. I usually opt for a permanent stab, but this time decided to go for portability instead. The thing looks pretty robust with two hold down dowels and a screw, what the heck...
I used 2 hour epoxy and added a foam piece inside the pan for additional support. Make sure everything is lined up properly by laying the stab on the fuse, screwing in the hold-down screw, and measuring for squareness. Now put the pan in place and mark along the pan with a felt tip marker so you know where to cut.
When gluing the bottom stab attachment pan on, make sure you are gluing balsa to balsa, not balsa to covering! I cut away a little covering from the stab, and the pan. Make sure you do not cut too deep as you will create a weak area and "snap"... pile of sticks!
Hold down the pan with a heavy object and go do something else...
< Message edited by pequeajim -- Jun 13 2002 1:13PM >
Posts: 725
Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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Gluing in the vertical stab couldn't be easier. In fact, they use a really neat hinge that once installed, will tear the balsa before it comes out, (see pic). I used 2 hour epoxy and glued it in place. Check the alignment and use masking tape if necessary to hold it straight while the glue sets up a dries. Mine went in perfect.
Oh yeah... If you coat the hinge (shown on the bottom) with vasoline before gluing, it will keep the epoxy out of the hinge gaps. When the glue drys, wipe it off and you have a clean hinge that moves freely. (Thanks IMAC guys for that tip)
(more tonight)
< Message edited by pequeajim -- Jun 13 2002 1:16PM >
Posts: 725
Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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They have come up with a pretty nice bellcrank assembly that is smooth and eliminates the differential throw that you get with a two servo setup, or "Y" type arrangements.
It installs very easily and the only thing I saw that needed help was that I ended up adding a spacer on each side between the fuse and the control horn to keep the slop out.
Don't forget to add the holding screw for each control horn.
< Message edited by pequeajim -- Jun 15 2002 10:04PM >
Posts: 725
Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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A nice heavy duty servo tray is provided and glued in well. I did however, switch the elevator and rudder servos as I thought there was potential for the rudder pull-pull to rub with the elevator, now it does not.
Remember to put the little white tubes on the wire before you put the ends on the pull-pull. Install these in the slots in the side of the fuse. This will keep the wire from cutting into the sides.
Another Senior Pilot told me that he used longer tubes and ran them in past the former up from the exit holes, (to wards the front). He said that this eliminated the wire rubbing against the former. I can see how it would do this. With the servos switched, there is just a little bit of rub. I'm going to replace my tubes as well after a few flights.
< Message edited by pequeajim -- Jun 26 2002 12:34PM >
Posts: 725
Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
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The engine mount is a really neat contraption and hefty too! I decided to use it for the RCS. The mount is adjustable both ways so you can mount your engine however you like.
I put the engine on the mount and heated up a wire with my torch, then pushed the wire through the engine mounting holes, burning a small hole in the mount where the mounting hole is.
This gives me a clear place to drill and the proper alignment for the engine. MrBonk noticed a slight upthrust in his mount and I have not noticed this with mine. If you have this problem, a couple of washers can be used as shims to take this out.
The cowl is big enough that the engine will fit inside with the pitts muffler. I love the clear plastic practice canopy. Make the cuts you want with that, get it right and then transfer the cuts to the real canopy.
(More tonight...)
< Message edited by pequeajim -- Jun 26 2002 12:37PM >
Posts: 725
Joined: 12/24/2001 From: New Holland,
PA, USA Status: offline
With the RCS, you can run a Nickle Mh pack and in order to keep things light, I decided to go with a 700Mhr NiMh pack, AAA cells, very light.
As you can see in the pic, I mounted the ignition up next to the firewall. Some tack spray, and velcro was all that it took. I mounted it to the opposite side of the exhaust port on the engine as there is a little excess muffler on that side, and this will help to balance things out a little.
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World Models Super Sports Senior Construction Diary and... - 
