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Joined: 9/30/2002 From: Omaha, NE, USA Status: offline
nebraska, yeah..... plenty of flying spots though. no more military, civilian life for me. we (well, my wife) just had a baby, and we're moving into our first house this weekend, so it'll probably be a while untill I get back to work.
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Aoccdrnig to a Cmabrigde Uinervtisy sudty, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tih
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quote:
nebraska, yeah..... plenty of flying spots though. no more military, civilian life for me. we (well, my wife) just had a baby, and we're moving into our first house this weekend, so it'll probably be a while untill I get back to work.
Yea, I can understand that. Babies can keep you very busy! No hills in Nebraska are there? Lots of open spaces if I remember, so you should have a good flying site for sure. No building for you, ok... well you can just sit back and enjoy my build I guess! Now a few little updates:
As I said before I was planning on opening up the air intakes on the wings. I do hate non-functioning stuff on my planes, you know me if it's got a tail hook then it must work! Sliding canopy, must work! I hate fake scoops on cars too Doing this will add a lot of realism, and I’m hoping that when I put the little deflectors in there that when air rushes through it will make a whistle! I glued the ply sub leading edge on and the balsa centerpiece. As I said before I used plywood so that I could mount the retracts as far forward as possible and I needed the reinforcement for the functional intakes. For the intakes I just used a balsa block on one end in typical balsa basher style, then just some rolled 1/64 ply on the other.
The ailerons need to be in and working perfectly, as mine are now. The setup shown here is typical Dion style, simple, light, easy to install and no hatches or wires hanging from the bottom of the wing! All that is needed now is to install some extra supports where the flaps will be located, and then I’ll be able to sheet the top of the wing. The only area not sheeted at this time is over the retract bay.
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Sheeted the outer panels and some of the inboard section. I had to stop sheeting to plan and prepare for the flaps.
Here you can see the wing bolt block in the center section. Also the small strip added that marks the cut I’ll make for the flaps. This strip will keep the sheeting from warping once it’s cut. Behind that I added a 1/8 support strip. The balsa on the flaps will be cut back to this strip and capped with 3/8 balsa to form the rounded edge shape.
The flap area can then be sheeted. Yes, more bell cranks! The area around the bell cranks will stay open until the flaps are cut capped and hinged. Notice the position of the cranks, this will give each flap the same travel.
Another look at the wing, it’s still glued to the table, not much left to do now and I’ll be popping it off of there. Then I can start on that fuselage…yes! Daddy like!
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ORIGINAL: Maiden Voyage
Luke
You are truly an artist!
I'm still waiting on the "Professional Corsair Building" picture CD Should be in stores soon, yes?
Kerry
Thank you Kerry! Glad ya like it so far and thanks for dropping in! I like the term balsa basher better though! Don't hold your breath for that CD!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I drew a centerline on the table and blocked the fuselage up.
I use small scrap sticks with the centerline drawn on them to make sure the fuselage is straight.
The nose of this thing is a little tricky. I made another piece called F-4B, it's just the top of the original F-4. The top scoop will cover most of this area anyway.
I glued on the stock F-16 sidepieces. Man when you start bending that stuff around the fuselage it starts wanting to go all kinds of ways!
< Message edited by dionysusbacchus -- 5/2/2004 5:16:05 PM >
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A couple more pictures. I removed it from the jig and now it's ready to have the tail wheel fitted, so yes another Corsair tail wheel tutorial. This one is minus a tail hook so that will make it a little easier to build.
Next picture, if you squint, stand back about 10 feet and use your imagination you can see the F2G emerging! Yea!
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Man Luke, I can really see the MAJOR discrepancies in the TF corsair Fuse When I compare up the Aft formers to the formers you are using. seems the TF designers weren't too worried about it But hey with some minor Mods the TF is pretty decent looking BUT your work is AMAZING!!!!!!! very nice sir. It is good to see someone with an eye to scale accuracy. Too many scale airplaneshave wierd deviations from scale outlines. yours looks just about perfect.
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ORIGINAL: US185Damiani
Man Luke, I can really see the MAJOR discrepancies in the TF corsair Fuse When I compare up the Aft formers to the formers you are using. seems the TF designers weren't too worried about it But hey with some minor Mods the TF is pretty decent looking BUT your work is AMAZING!!!!!!! very nice sir. It is good to see someone with an eye to scale accuracy. Too many scale airplaneshave wierd deviations from scale outlines. yours looks just about perfect.
Thanks amiani Yes the TF Corsair uses flat sided formers, just rounding them would not help either because they are the wrong shape on top. Most Corsairs that I have seen look like they were just drawn free hand. But they have a purpose, give the masses a plane that looks like a Corsair. This works for the majority of people, cover a Sig Kadet in yellow Monokote and you will have people say "nice Cub"! Learn to tread lightly around here when you talk about scale outline, even if it was the original intent of the designer to make a semi scale plane, it's weird but it's considered a slam to bring that point up. Just about perfect, ok!
I’ve been working on the scale tail wheel retract. It is mostly made out of Printed Circuit Board and some brass. When I made my last one I didn’t take very good notes so the drawings I have from that are not very helpful. I’m updating them now to make it much easier for others that may want to attempt building one. Remember this is an F2G land based tail wheel so it has no tail hook or associated levers, but I will show those on the plan.
I printed the patterns on card stock and traced them on the PC board, but all your holes first on the drill press.
Next picture shows most of the parts needed all ready for assembly. Some brass pieces are not shown.
The parts for the shock will take the most time depending on the equipment you have in your shop of course. The shock piston is machined from ¼” aluminum rod. (this can be done on a drill press) A small brass ring to the right is slipped over the bottom of the shock piston, this slides in the brass shock base just at my finger tips. Partially assembled, the spring will be held in with a small brass pin that goes through the shock base. The top shock support is shown at the top right.
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Luke, I can see the SMOKE from your garage up here in Georgia Boy you build fast. Looking super as usual. What are you planning for engine? A four stroke would be sweet.
Pete
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ORIGINAL: Rocketman612
Luke, I can see the SMOKE from your garage up here in Georgia Boy you build fast. Looking super as usual. What are you planning for engine? A four stroke would be sweet.
Pete
Thanks Pete, yea I’ve been going pretty fast on the easy stuff but it’s fixing to slow down here pretty soon! The harder parts are the flaps cowl and canopy. Four strokes are nice, but I want to keep it all in the cowl. It will be an upright engine installation too so I don't want the valve covers sticking out! This is my last small Corsair for a while, so I just want to get it done using parts and engines that I already have.
Speaking of flaps, if anyone can show me a good picture of the inner most flap hinge next to the fuselage I would really appreciate it. Juice, you took some excellent pictures of the F4U-1D, but unfortunately none show this area.
I can’t show every step on the tail wheel construction, to many pictures! I have taken some and will share them, I don’t think many will attempt the tail wheel project anyway. Those that do will have the mechanical ability, so these pictures will assist those folks.
The first picture shows the major portion assembled.
Next is a picture of my fancy jig for the wheel forks!
Here you can see how I hold the parts together for soldering, notice the brass brackets on the corners. Drill a hole in the center for the brass control rod and then remove it and solder the backside of the corners.
Here you can see the control rod soldered into the top of the wheel forks.
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Soldering the shaft on top of the forks may seem tough, but it can be easily centered by placing small hex nuts over the control rod, then sliding the tube over that. After you solder it on the hex nuts can be taken out.
This shows a small PC board piece that holds the wheel from bouncing up and down.
When the wheel is pushed up into the main assembly a small piece of brass tube is cut to go over the control rod. Then the control horn is soldered on top of that. I will have drawings that show these parts. Everything is coming together great on this one, it's pretty straight.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: F2G Corsair Build Sneak Peak!!! 
RE: F2G Corsair Build Sneak Peak!!! - 
plenty of flying spots though. no more military, civilian life for me. we (well, my wife) just had a baby, and we're moving into our first house this weekend, so it'll probably be a while untill I get back to work.
Now a few little updates: 
Doing this will add a lot of realism, and I’m hoping that when I put the little deflectors in there that when air rushes through it will make a whistle! 
I glued the ply sub leading edge on and the balsa centerpiece. As I said before I used plywood so that I could mount the 
RE: F2G Corsair Build Sneak Peak!!! - 
Should be in stores soon, yes? 
Just about perfect, ok! 
