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Joined: 12/12/2002 From: Blue Collar TV ,
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Richard,
Very nice work on the doors, I was expecting to see a single servo system so I was a little disappointed to see all those servos, but they are light and it looks good. When you paint the wheel well just paint over the servos, that will help hide everything. I see the end point for doors closed will keep the servos from buzzing, nice work!
I like your cowl flap hinge idea, be interesting to see what you come up with! I've got other project to finish before I tackle those details, but I like seeing the ideas, so keep em coming.
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Joined: 7/28/2002 From: Redmond, WA, USA Status: offline
Hi Luke, what is the official color for the wheel wells on the F2G? I've seen some painted in yellow zinc chromate and some in gray, but I'm not sure what shade of gray.
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Joined: 12/12/2002 From: Blue Collar TV ,
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Richard L.
Hi Luke, what is the official color for the wheel wells on the F2G? I've seen some painted in yellow zinc chromate and some in gray, but I'm not sure what shade of gray.
That's a good question Richard! I've seen all kinds of colors on the plastic model F2G's, but the inner doors are always the color of the fuselage. I admit to drifting from scale on my plane, the struts and tail wheel should all be blue. It's just that when you paint them all blue and the plane is blue you can't see any detail, so I deviated! This plane is just for fun anyway and I can always give them a new paint job if I don't like it. Post some pictures of the wheel wells if you come across them again. I'm thinking about going with the Zinc Chromate for my wheel wells to help bring out the detail. I love your F2G by the way, very nicely done! One interesting thing to note about the paint job on your F2G is that the blue squares on the cowl were a lighter shade of blue than the rest of the plane. I know because I was considering that paint job, but it had a tail hook and I didn't want that option.
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Joined: 12/4/2004 From: hastings, MN, USA Status: online
Hi luke I ask the same question of Dave Bronk, he came back with, out of the factory a greeanish zinc cormate, and in the fied or ship yellow, green, and an off white was used. I was not able to confirm or discount from my limited ref; books
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Joined: 2/9/2004 From: Riverdale,
UT, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL:
The other pic is my first thinking on getting the cowl flaps working. I'm thinking of springing the flaps open and using the cable to pull them in. Not sure how to do the infill bits between the flaps.
This and the cowl flaps are the next issues to be tackled. I will also have to rethink the best way to retract the tailwheel. I've never had any major problems with air systems but the servo route would be simpler.
Thanks again Richard
Richard,
I do believe that the servo is simpler, but when retracting Mains and Tail, the question was how to operate them together. I had built a single servo dual arm operation, with the air valve on one, the tailwheel on the other. The linkage for the tail wheel ran the length of the plane. Talk about binding... My problem was it never seemed to have enough push to FULLY retract. I went with air instead...
It looks like you have used aluminium for you cowl flaps. Mine are made the same. The picture shows prestages of the operation. This was about 1 month ago. My camera has been down since then, but I will submit the updated flaps soon.
How it works... Im sure you have seen the "disc". All of the "actuators" (However many you want to operate) are at perpendicular to the disc when fully opened. The holes are predrilled on the disc, but they can be redrilled any where you want them. Although, I had to be carefull about the tank deck. In the retract position, the lines may hit the deck. Im not sure if it the same on the Royal (again, I have a TF GE Corsair). To avoid the deck, I had connected the two flaps together where it gave me problems.
Hopefully this helps. Im not sure if you are to far in the build to consider this design but just a suggestion.
Thanks, Jon
< Message edited by NuttyPilot -- 11/21/2005 4:29:21 AM >
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Joined: 7/28/2002 From: Redmond, WA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: dionysusbacchus
I love your F2G by the way, very nicely done! One interesting thing to note about the paint job on your F2G is that the blue squares on the cowl were a lighter shade of blue than the rest of the plane.
You are right. The blue squares on the cowl should be a slightly lighter shade of blue. On the other hand, the rest of the plane should be much darker as glossy sea blue is a very dark grayish color.
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Joined: 12/20/2003 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Hi Jon
And thanks for the input. Interesting idea on getting those cowl flaps to work. My situation is a little different. I'm using an AXI 5330/18 to power this 82" Corsair and to get the right sound I'm trying something new. A company in Germany can put any sound on a chip smaller than a postage stamp and I've sent over some real R-2800 sounds. I will then play these thru a 120watt speaker and 70 watt amp mounted in the nose all controlled by the throttle channel. This speaker needs a sealed sound box to get the most noise from it so the whole nose is a sealed plywood box. Hope the pics show this. This doesn't leave much room for cowl flaps around the outside of the speaker box - next challenge!
Tail wheel is still a work in progress. Due to lack of radio channels to work everything, I'm thinking the canopy will be on the retract channel being open when the gear is down and closed when the gear is up. Since the canopy will probably be air operated it makes a lot of sense to work the tailwheel from the same air lines. If I go the servo route I will more than likely use another JR Matchbox to drive two servos but this is more complication - air is looking good.
Thanks again for the input and please post some more pics
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Joined: 7/28/2002 From: Redmond, WA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: dionysusbacchus
Post some pictures of the wheel wells if you come across them again. I'm thinking about going with the Zinc Chromate for my wheel wells to help bring out the detail.
Posts: 57
Joined: 12/20/2003 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Hi All
Can someone please help me understand how the actual cowl flaps were/are attached to the actuator arms? From the pics attached and from my readings I think the actuator arms were sprung and the perimeter cable pulled them in to close the cowl flaps but how did the cowl flaps 'slide' across the actuator arms as they opened and the wedge between the individual flaps opened up?
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Joined: 2/9/2004 From: Riverdale,
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Bundy
Hi All
Can someone please help me understand how the actual cowl flaps were/are attached to the actuator arms? From the pics attached and from my readings I think the actuator arms were sprung and the perimeter cable pulled them in to close the cowl flaps but how did the cowl flaps 'slide' across the actuator arms as they opened and the wedge between the individual flaps opened up?
Thanks
Richard
Well, that certainly looks like cables to me.... Great picture Richard. The F2G MUST be cable run obviously. In early pictures, and other versions, the flaps could be opened in sets. Im not sure that is possible with the pictures you have. Looks like that all open or close together... If you get it rigged like that, WOW, you the man! Cant wait to see the finished results.
Damn this thread... to many ideas and new thinkings, I love it!