RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ??  
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RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 12/17/2006 9:00:44 PM   
pd1


 

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Joined: 11/24/2006
From: noydb, MA, USA
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The basic process is: Blow the picture up to a larger size. Add pixels, usually from 72dpi tp 300 dpi.
Now the fun, blur the photo to reduce the effects of the dot picture, add layers and "paint color." Reduce opacity on the layer to allow the detail to show through. Do this for each color. Flatten image, return to original size and resolution.
That's why I can only get good results with a good quality B&W. The picture was so poor,it generated an argument as to who the kid in the blue sweater is. 2 votes it's me, 1 (mine) it's not.
I used light red on Lou's shirt, he had quite a few pink or light blue shirts.
Glad you liked it, but I wish I could do better. I'm not that good with photoshop.

(in reply to HighPlains)
       Post #: 151

RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 12/18/2006 3:26:25 AM   
Lloyd


 

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From: Milpitas, CA, USA
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I just read all the posts in this entire thread. And feel compelled to recount my encounter with an Andrews Aeromaster Too. Not all of these fly well.

Set the wayback machine to 1978. Me, flying pattern contests and doing fairly well. These were the old ballistic pattern events. However, I had several sport planes as well and flew the wings off an old Alley Kat and put on exhibitions that other flyers commented were "thrilling" to watch.

Anyway, I got the biplane bug and started investigating which to get. Just about everybody said the Aeromaster was one to have. But, I never got to fly one for one reason or another. Then I got wind of a completed one available to purchase. It had the double swept wings. T'weren't cheap, though. 250 1978 dollars was a LARGE dent in my wallet at that time. This was an era before ARFs and I usually built all my planes and they came out light. This plane LOOKED very nice and appeared to be a good quality assembly. I had seen this guy fly an ugly stick at our field. And, between crashes, it was clear that this plane could easily be beyond his current abilities He, and others, were certain I would thoroughly enjoy this plane. The weight was "only 10 pounds". And, the balistic pattern planes of the era all weighed at least that, what with retracts, pipes, and what not, and often much more. Here is where the "what you don't know can hurt you" phrase applies. No weight specs on the plans. And, a much better saleman than informed purchaser.

Okay, purchase made, radio and engine installation complete, K&B pumped .61 installed (came off my trainer Ugly stick). In retrospect, it was a phenomenally good decision to put a known reliable engine on this plane.

A note about my tail dragger experience at that time. Only one other plane, a profile Messersmit Me 109 (a $15 ARC Kit). This was an extremely docile airplane leaving me to wonder why anyone would have difficulty converting trike to a taildragger. However, on the third flight of the ME, the elevator hinges all separated. T'was a lot fun 'til then.

Oh my, a 10 pound Aeromaster is a frighting handfull on takeoff. And, I soon learned that brown pants were highly recommended attire. If you could get it airborne it was a fairly nice performer, provide you kept the throttle above the halfway position. Figuring out which way the airplane was going to go at the top of a loop was always a challenge. Recovery proceedures were quickly learned that elevator would NOT save the airplane, only airspeed would help in that regard. No, this was definately not a pattern ship. It was a good thing that I had learned with a previous plane to fly a plane with speed all the way to the runway before the throttle could be brought down. And, good lord, stay off the rudder when only the mains were on the ground, or prepare to have everyone run from the runway edge.

Okay, the wings weren't balanced. Added some nails to the light wing side. Now, if the loops were small enough (but not so small as to cause a snap) it would go over the top without random direction changes. Cool. In an effort to limit the agony of take off, more power was an attempted fix. So, a Rossi 60 with a tuned pipe was installed from one of my pattern planes. Takeoff roll now half of what it was, but still a "puckering" experience. And, after each flight I was wondering when the airplane would be fun to fly instead of intense concentration and limited predicabity of it's omnidirectional ground qualities. (yes, I adjusted the wheel tow correctly) After, 25 flights, I hung it up as a VERY attactive ornament, while there was still an entire, intact, airplane to display. All offers to buy it were retracted when I honestly told them of it's flight characteristics. Okay, nevermind.

Okay, so why was this airplane a disappointment. I have to think a major contributor was its portly nature as I checked all incidences and alignments repeatedly, and with help when I thought I was overlooking something. The airframe had been glassed, epoxied, primered, painted, painted, painted, painted, and trimmed. Such paint belongs on a car, NOT an airplane. The tail surfaces were so heavy, 4-5 inches of lead bar solder were added up front to put the CG at plan.

About 5 years ago, I got the biplane bug again and decided it couldn't have been as bad as I remembered. Well, I was wrong, and my reflexes aren't what they were in 78 either. Cartwheeled the plane twice on a takeoff attempts. Repair not difficult. Aparently a lead airplane doesn't damage that easily. Then it did it again upon landing it after the third flight. "What was that?" ...was all I could say in disbelief. It happened so fast, I can't even do a mental replay of what went wrong. But, there's a wing over here and a wing over there and the fuse has the wheels in the air. Okay, surprising little damage, actually. Perhaps there is more glue than balsa in this plane hidden under all that paint. I fixed it again and it now hangs as an ornament and will continue to do so until someone removes all the covering and about 4-5 lbs of very pretty, but deadly finish.

No, I don't hate all Andrews Aeromasters... just this one. I bought plans off ebay to scratch build one a couple years ago Turns out to be the great planes version. But, the time hasn't come yet. I even bought a big round fiberglas cowl to put on it with the big bumps like a Jungmeister. Then, a few months ago I found an original kit at an estate sale for $30. And now, all that pretty paint on Mr. portly is beginning to crack and peel.

Anybody, know how to remove K&B superpoxy (thick), and epoxy glass finish without destroying the airframe balsa? Easily, of course.

Cheers,

(in reply to pd1)
       Post #: 152

RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 12/18/2006 1:12:20 PM   
mcmike


 

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a 10 pound aeromaster... no wonder it wants to fly like a handful of sand! Removing K&B Superpoxy?... you might try straigh MEK, but I don't think that will do it. Sounds like somebody was building a display model, not something that one would want to fly. I've never had to add nose weight to an Aermaster, let alone the amount you mentioned. They've always been a big 'squirrly' on take off, just ease the power on, They usually start flying at about half throttle. My final suggestion would be to put the Great plans version up for sale on Ebay, build the original AAMCO kit. My personal preference... Large swept upper wing, shorter straight lower wing.

Good Luck!

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Real airplanes have 2 wings and round engines!

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       Post #: 153

RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 12/18/2006 1:55:47 PM   
HighPlains


 

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Great story about a lead sled, it reminded me of a kid in college 34 years ago. He had a Midwest Tri Squire with a green head Torp .35 engine. I had a grand total of two years of flying RC, so he asked me to help him fly the airplane. We did a few times, passing the transmitter back and forth with me grabbing it to save the airplane from time to time. I was doing all the takeoffs and landings. What didn't impress me was the engine, quite a bit weaker than my Fox .45 powered Sweet Stik. Anyway, it flew OK. We agreed to meet again after a holiday break and fly again...

A few weeks later we got together to fly again. He brought the same airplane, but he had repainted it. It looked good. But where it floated off before, it now took full throttle and a long run before it broke ground. It was now so heavy that it would not hold altitude at less than full throttle. So I kept it up with full power, hoping than by the time the tank was about dry that I would have enough elevator to flair. In the end, it got to the point where it would fly level at half throttle and I managed to fly it to the ground. Afterward, I found out that he had added about 12 coats of paint over the break. I told him to sand it all off before we would try again. Never saw him again.

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(in reply to Lloyd)
       Post #: 154

RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 12/19/2006 12:35:37 AM   
jrbmoto


 

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From: Glendora, CA, USA
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I built a Great Planes Aeromaster kit years ago and loved every minute of it! I went with the long swept wings top and bottom with ailerons on the bottom wing only, however if I had it to do over again, I think I would opt for the shorter wings with ailerons top and bottom. I powered it with an OS Surpass .91 and it flew beautifully! I think the only real differences between the GP version and the original is the cowl and the bolt on wings. I suppose Mr. Andrews probably did a better job of selecting the wood for the kits. Maybe thats why everybody seems to comment that the origionals fly better than the GP....

Johnny

(in reply to HighPlains)
       Post #: 155

RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 12/26/2006 4:08:33 AM   
cwahl


 

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From: New York, NY, USA
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I have Andrews plans (3 sheets) and the construction photos for the Aeromaster Too, and plans (two sheets) for the Sportmaster in full-size PDF format. The file sizes are anywhere between 2.2 and 3.7 Mb, and several of the sheets are 38" tall, which might be more than the standard copy-shop can print out. But they're available for the asking, just send me an email.

AMA sells the plans for $50 and $28 respectively (they were in John Pond's catalog) -- so that's another course of action.

(in reply to pd1)
       Post #: 156

RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 12/27/2006 1:11:22 PM   
mcmike


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: cwahl

I have Andrews plans (3 sheets) and the construction photos for the Aeromaster Too, and plans (two sheets) for the Sportmaster in full-size PDF format. The file sizes are anywhere between 2.2 and 3.7 Mb, and several of the sheets are 38" tall, which might be more than the standard copy-shop can print out. But they're available for the asking, just send me an email.

AMA sells the plans for $50 and $28 respectively (they were in John Pond's catalog) -- so that's another course of action.


Sent you an Email... Very interested in getting the pdf files for these...

thanks!
mcmike

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RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 12/28/2006 6:03:55 PM   
donhef


 

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From: Hamilton Square, NJ, USA
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I received the gift of an "Aeromaster Too" kit in July and I'm about 3/4 finished with it. Talk about a builders kit! I'm using Futaba S3004 servos throughout and have it set up for single servo w/bellcranks in the lower wing. I went along with the short straight bottom wing and longer swept top wing build. The question that I have, is there a easy way to set up interplane struts on this aircraft? I know that they are not functional, but they make the plane look so much better (IMHO). Plus, I will be using a Webra Speed .61 engine with a Perry Carb and 12X6 Master Airscrew propellor, which my fellow Club Members say will fly it fine.

Another observation is that the plans had these huge servos on it, and when I started to fit the center servo, I had to make a framework to lift the servo up to have the arm assembly level with the bellcrank system. It looks ugly, but it fits into the fuselage without any problems.

I hope that this one will fly as good as the ones you have all spoken about. It's been great reading all the anecdotes and seeing all the photos. Keep it up Ladies and Gentlemen!

Don

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(in reply to mcmike)
       Post #: 158

RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 12/28/2006 6:39:24 PM   
mcmike


 

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If you look on the plans, there are locations shown for the interplane struts. What I've done in the past, is to reinforce the ribs that support the struts with some 1/16" plywood with some tabs on it that protrude through the covering. Then I make the struts so that they screw into these tabs.

Those 'huge' servos were the norm back when the plans were drawn. If you ever take a look at the sportmaster plans, they've plainly got 'Kraft" labeled on the aileron servo. They were slow, but had a bunch of power to 'em!

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Real airplanes have 2 wings and round engines!

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RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 1/6/2007 1:11:40 AM   
aeomaster32



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Joined: 11/4/2006
From: Maroochy River, AUSTRALIA
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Sounds like the Webra may be about the same, power wise, as a current .40 . Would that accurate?

NI
[/quote]

roughly the same, just in different power band. Those older .60's did tend to have a lot more torque at lower rpm than our current crop of screamin' 40's do... I know I used to use a 12x4 or 12x5 on my k&b 61 on my Aeromaster all the time. Flew it much better than the 11x7-1/2 which was the accepted 'standard' prop for a 60 back then. Best thing to do is get a few wood props, in various pitch values, and try them. you'll find one that performs much better than the others.

[/quote]
My experience was that a topflight 11x 7 3/4 wood was better than the 12x6 on my OS60H Goldhead, but a lot depends on weight and your engine charactaristics. Try both.

I posted my details on an earlier thread on this wonderful airplane. Those interested in seeing how it survived a midair, can see pictures and more information here:


Andrews AeroMaster - Post No7 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4560887/tm.htm





< Message edited by aeomaster32 -- 1/9/2007 11:53:38 AM >


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RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 1/9/2007 1:00:21 AM   
wayjer66


 

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From: Durango, CO, USA
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Aeromaster32....

Please see my post #142 on page 6 of this thread....wayjer66

The Webra is a lot stronger than a modern 40 but a bit less than a modern 61. It is more about torgue than RPMs...it will turn an 11X7 1/2 very well and 12X6's have worked well for me for years. Of course it all depends on the plane's weight, design, etc. Gook Luck

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RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 1/9/2007 11:46:52 AM   
aeomaster32



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From: Maroochy River, AUSTRALIA
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With my third Aeromaster, I decided that a 4stroke suited it better than a screaming 2 stroke. I wanted power, but not weight. Just in time, the Saito 82. Weighs what my old OS60 did, but turns a 13X6, not a 12X6. I'm not a power junkie, and normally build light with small motors, but in this case, the Saito was so light that I went with it. It makes for lively performance, good vertical (can do a top hat now). A Saito 56 or OS52 would be sufficient for sensible flying though.

A picture of the Saito 82 installation can be found at post no 14 down the page of this earlier thread.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4560887/tm.htm

< Message edited by aeomaster32 -- 1/9/2007 11:48:27 AM >


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It's better to break ground and head into the wind than to break wind and head into the ground.

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       Post #: 162

RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ?? - 2/17/2007 2:29:37 AM   
mred33


 

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From: Glenwood, GA, USA
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Greetings all;
I can remember back in the good old days when I was flying my Aeromaster with an HP 61 and is was the best plane I ever had. Silk and dope all the way. I used to take it up as high as I could and start spinning down under full power just to count the spins. I made it to 109 one time before I had to pull out. With full power, it was a flat spin and came down slower then if spun at idle. The only thing I didn't like about flying it was the take off. I never did learn to do it right. I just did a couple S's to get a little flying speed and jerked it off. After it was in the air, it handled like a dream. Landings were a bit differant too. Let it tuch down and go where ever it wanted to. If I tryed to correct it, it would ground loop. That thing was so sensitive to rudder on the ground I could not go in a stright line. In the air, it groved like it was on tracks. I finally had to sell it when I got transfered and could not afford the extra baggage. I always planed to build another, but could not find one. By the time I was out of school and ready to build, it was off the market. Never did get another set of plans, but would love to build one now. The only problem is, now that I am retired and have the time, I can't find the plans. Oh well, maybe one of these days. By the way, I used an 11-7 on the HP and it would do vertical just great. Figure M, top hat and so forth no problem. Would not hang on the prop like they do now, but I was never interested in that and still not.

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