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All Forums >> Glow Engines, Gas Engines, Fuel & Mfg Support Forums >> RC Fuels >> Cool Power - Nonringed engines
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Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 7/26/2003 2:06:07 AM   
thumbs17


 

Posts: 4
Joined: 9/21/2002
From: Marietta, GA, USA
Status: offline 		I have been using Cool Power fuel in ABC engines for over 30 years and have NEVER had to replace an engine part due to wear. We used to turn the engines at over 13000 static with a pipe on pattern airplanes. We now turn them at 11000 with much more prop, but my fuel stays the same. Cool Power.

Morgan fuels are NOT using Klotz or Ucon oils. The oil used in Morgan fuels is totally unique and is proprietary, unless somebody stole their formula. The Morgan oil is superior to anything available today. It has super lube properties, plus additives that virtually eliminate rust during storage of the engine. I have engines that have been stored for 15 years that have not one fleck of rust on them.

I see the ongoing debate over how much oil is necessary. The people who say Morgans fuel does not have enough oil have no idea what they are talking about because they are making the judgement on what they know about castor oil, Ucon, Klotz and maybe a few others. Morgan's fuel with 16% or 17% will protect your engine better than the other fuels with higher percentages of an inferior lubricant. It's what is used rather than how much. 50% maple syrup might sound good percentage wise, but your engine will be destroyed, if it runs at all.

If you present me with ten engines run on different fuels, one of which was run on A Morgan fuel, I can identify that engine by pulling the backplate. Morgan's fuels leave a very slick residue on the engine parts that is unique. It is this plating action that protects the engine from wear and rust. It is also the reason that you do not need after-run oil when you use Morgan fuels. It is counterproductive.

I found what works over 30 years ago, and I am sticking with it.

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 26

Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 7/26/2003 3:28:26 AM   
Dr Nitro


 

Posts: 162
Joined: 11/12/2002
From: The Great Midwest, USA
Status: offline 		I would like to add my two cents.
Although Morgans Cool Power is a very popular brand, I'll have to agree with Fuel Dianosaur and some of the other threads by Fuelman. CP is not the best choice for every application.
Certain applications should be run with at least some castor in the blend; anything without a ring.
I've seen guys with lapped iron bushed engines ruin them rather quickly because they insisted on using Cool Power, regardless of what the instructions said. I've seen several fellas and one gal peel the nickle out of an OS 46FX or 32SX by insisting they must use Cool Power, most of them experienced engine tuners.
In some cases the quality of the oil just is not enough, if it is the wrong type in the first place.
Feed your engine what it needs based on type and the engine will (when run correctly) will thank you in the long run.

_____________________________

Dr Nitro

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 27

Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 8/1/2003 8:10:19 AM   
BigSTIK40flier



Posts: 262
Joined: 5/12/2003
From: houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		for those who use all synthetic fuel, if you have no oil what so ever on your plane after flying, evern if you have castor in your fuel. if your plane dosnt have oil on it that is really bad, the reason it means your fuel either 1:dosnt have enough oil or 2:is being burned off which its not supposed too. this is probly off topic but i thought i should add that

_____________________________

KellyLeak- #2791 Dayum it is good to be back!

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 28

Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 8/1/2003 4:36:21 PM   
Dansy



Posts: 355
Joined: 3/2/2002
From: Kingston, NS, CANADA
Status: offline 		Well very simply put....your are wrong IMHO, been flying strictly CP in either 40% nitro....when nitro was cheap, and for the last few years only the 25% 2 cycle W/ OUT any PROBLEM! in the following engines with this fuel, Supertiger .29, .91 and 2300, 61 SH, OS 32 F abc, 32 SX (2), 32 SH (4), 61FX, 46FX (2), 50SX, 1.40RX (3), YS 140L, .91AC, 53FZ, 45 FS, 45FR, Enya 61CRX H, .45 S, Webra 32, 61 RH,

I usually burn about 5 to 7 cases every summer, do not fly in the winter, and I never damage any of my engines.


[QUOTE]Originally posted by BigSTIK40flier
for those who use all synthetic fuel, if you have no oil what so ever on your plane after flying, evern if you have castor in your fuel. if your plane dosnt have oil on it that is really bad, the reason it means your fuel either 1:dosnt have enough oil or 2:is being burned off which its not supposed too. this is probly off topic but i thought i should add that [/QUOTE]

_____________________________

Daniel D.

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 29

Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 8/1/2003 10:05:24 PM   
yard-dart



Posts: 925
Joined: 3/6/2002
From: West Monroe, LA, USA
Status: offline 		The bottom line is, run what YOU like. If Cool power has treated your engine good,and especially after many years like some of you have said, then keep using it. For those of you who say Cool Power is crap, don't use it. I can't see telling a man, who has had no problem with his engines running on CP for years, that it is bad for his engine. Yes, a "little" castor is good for all engines. I personally think that at least 2% castor needs to be run in four strokes. I too have been running 15% CP in my engines 4 & 2 stroke, but when I use up all of it I'm swithching over to Coopers Custom Blend 20/20 (20% nitro w/ 18% synthetic-2% castor). I don't think that there is anyone out there that can really argue with this fuel mixture, and still have a leg to stand on. Everyone at my flying field has been running Coopers for at least the past two years and they all love it. As for the CP, I have been satisfied with it, but I think I'll get a little more sleep at night "knowing" that my engine has a little more lubrication. And NO, this small amount of castor is not going to come anywhere near gumming up my 4 banger. I spoke with Bryan Cooper, owner of Coopers Custom Fuels, personally on the phone. If there is anyone who knows fuels, he is the one! He'll never bash another fuel or it's maker, but he will give you the "facts" on fuel, regardless if it's his own or another maker's. If you've got doubts, or questions about "any fuel", email him with your phone number an "he'll call you". I've read hundreds of different opinions on fuels here on RCU, and what I think people need to uderstand is if a fuel has treated your engine right, keep using it. If another man has read some things about that same fuel that he doesn't like, Hey, he doesn't have to run it. There is more than one fuel manufacturer out there, simply buy from the one of your choosing, regardless of what other's opinions are.

John

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 30

ocrrection - 8/2/2003 6:51:03 PM   
yard-dart



Posts: 925
Joined: 3/6/2002
From: West Monroe, LA, USA
Status: offline 		The fuel I will be using in the near future will Cooper's 15% nitro with 20% oil content (18% syn./2%castor). In my previous reply I stated that it was 20%nitro, which was incorrect. Cooper's does put out a 20%/20% all synthetic also, which I will probably try out since it has a higher oeverall oil content compared to CP. CP only has 17% oil content which does not meet a lot of engine manufacturers warranty specs.

John

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 31

Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 8/4/2003 10:44:44 AM   
Jarsu


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 8/4/2003
From: Oulu, FINLAND
Status: offline 		How about adding about 3% castor oil to CP, would it make it safe to use in ABC/ABN engines?

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 32

JTS Reply - 8/5/2003 2:47:58 AM   
Fuel Dinosaur


 

Posts: 83
Joined: 6/25/2002
From: Warrenton, GA, USA
Status: offline 		When you ask about how much castor to add to a fuel, you are basically asking the same type questions I always attempt to answer. If you can, find a fuel MORE suited for your ABC and ABN (and AAC) engines in the first place try to identify one. OR, you can add some more lubricant to your green stuff. Herein lies the rub, how much, which lubricant? If you want your engines to last a fairly LONG time, with reasonable performance, just add 20% lube, half castor and half synthetic, just like SIG has been doing for eons (much more than years). Use reasonable nitro levels between about 5 and 15%, depending on your engine and it will last between a long time and forever. Will get back to you on the latter. :-) I would suggest about 20% low castor (of the TOTAL oil) up to 50% castor. Adding 3% castor to your CP does help, but it not really optimal for these ABC and ABN engines. You might add 5% castor during the summer. Notice the last fellow who used CP fine for his engines was from Nova Scotia. :-) Okay, guys in northern Canada, Nova Scotia and the Ukraine might be able to use it, also the North and South Pole folks. You need to consider the way you fly and what you want out of your engine. Several piped engines will run fine on 10% nitro and 18% -20% oil. Depends on how you fly and what you want out of your engine, including performane and a trouble free life. Some of these fuels just have too little and sometimes cheap oils in them. Aim for 18-20% lube and 5-15% nitro for sport flying. If you want a long lasting engine, put some castor and synthetic in your fuel. Go easy on the castor for 4-strokes, 0-4% castor is okay, but do not go much higher. Some prefer all synthetic, I do not personally, but everyone to their own taste said the farmer as he kissed the cow. Enjoy your flying. Terry Joe

The old fuel mixing dinosaur

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 33

Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 8/5/2003 10:50:05 AM   
Jarsu


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 8/4/2003
From: Oulu, FINLAND
Status: offline 		Fuel dinosaur,

thanks for your reply. Why I would be using Cool Power is because 1) I'm a bit lazy to mix the fuel myself (up to this day I've been using 12% Aerosave 6% castor 10% nitro, and it has been good) 2) we can't get for example Omega here, and some of the other brands are too expensive. And although the weather here near the arctic circle (at least during the winter) resembles that of Ukraine or northern Canada, this summer has been mostly 25-30 deg C, so concerning the amount of oil, we should be using 20% in the summer and maybe 17% in the spring and autumn : so going with 20% (by adding castor oil to Cool Power 10%) I guess would be a good compromise for normal sport and fun flying.

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 34

Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 8/5/2003 8:22:24 PM   
bigbadbowtie



Posts: 674
Joined: 8/21/2002
From: Huntsville, AL, USA
Status: offline 		Just so you guys know.... some of us land guys are running the Omega. GREAT fuel and 1/2 the cost of the so called "CAR" fuel.



_____________________________

Ray in Bama

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 35

RE: 4 Strokes - 9/24/2003 4:11:03 PM   
StarskiPZ


 

Posts: 256
Joined: 11/10/2002
From: cheshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		One of the properties of castor oil is that it doesn't burn at 'glow' engine temperatures - where most synthetics do, giving it better cooling properties at the expense of fouling up you model.

One question I have for you - it has been mentioned that 4-strokes running on castor oil based fuels will have a problem of carbon build up within the head, and on the back of the valves...?

I would expect this to be the other way round, but one must take into account of the normal 'gumming-up' effect of castor oil...

comments..?

thanks,

starski

(in reply to bigbadbowtie)
       Post #: 36

RE: Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 9/25/2003 9:46:57 PM   
Bax


 

Posts: 11559
Joined: 4/26/2002
From: Champaign, IL, USA
Status: offline 		4-stroke engines run cooler than 2-strokes. What usually happens with castor oil fuels is that the head, exhaust valve stems, and the exhaust port of the cylinder head have carbon precipitate out of the exhaust stream. Eventually, enough carbon can coat the back of the valve and the valve stem so that the valve isn't sealing and/or closing all the way.

You'll also get varnish buildup on the cylinder liner and the piston. Once or twice a season, the engine should be disassembled and cleaned of the buildup. How fast or how much buildup depends entirely on how much you fly.

_____________________________

Bill Baxter, Manager Hobby Services/Futaba Service/North America
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Ste. 1 Champaign, IL 61822 USA
Service Phone: 217 398-0007
Email: hobbyservices@hobbico.com

(in reply to jdan)
       Post #: 37

RE: Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 9/30/2003 2:55:43 PM   
POWERMASTER


 

Posts: 46
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Elgin, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Having worked for 36 years with Union Carbide who manufacture the Ucon oils, I can attest that there are other oils out there that are as good and some better than the Ucon oils. Ucon and Klotz are by all means not the only oils that can be used in the modeling fuel manufacture.
Wendell Hammond - Powermaster Hobby Products, Inc.

(in reply to Sport_Pilot)
       Post #: 38

RE: Cool Power - Nonringed engines - 10/5/2005 2:02:56 PM   
Piet Le Roux



Posts: 140
Joined: 4/22/2005
From: BloemfonteinFree State, SOUTH AFRICA
Status: offline