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RE: Marder big foot - 5/29/2004 3:26:26 PM   
yoiforgot


 

Posts: 185
Joined: 12/16/2003
From: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
Status: offline 		I still wish I could see one face to face....I will simply like to know what I'm getting into, that's all.

I spoke with one of the guy's at Molzer Mowery, he says that the current G230/4 is producing more power than the G260...Anyone know why? The G260 clearly has a larger cylinder to allow more power, so what's the deal?

Have any of you had problems with your Zenoah? How reliable is it? How does it perform in cold weather ? / hot weather, are there any tuning adjustments that will need to be made?

I would imagine there is a break in procedure as well, right? Is it difficult??

I'm new at this, so the information is vital for me...thanks.

Ben

(in reply to Vintage_Duff)
       Post #: 51

RE: Marder big foot - 5/29/2004 5:23:21 PM   
gibbobaz


 

Posts: 20
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		The G230 will have better top-end power, but the extra capacity of the G260 will give more torque - just what you need for off-road.

As for the reliability - the're bullet-proof. You will have to change the piston ring mabey once every 6 months to keep it on top form and that's it. The pistion ring is coated in a bedding compound so the running in needed isn't much - a tankful keeping it below max revs will be plenty, then simply adjust the mixture (usually they will need leaning out) and that's all.

The engines will happily sit there and tick over all day long no matter what the weather, the flywheel has fins on it to blow cooling air over the cylinder head, obviously as with all engines they run better in cool air but overheating isn't common. As for tuning adjustments, once you have set it right you shouldn't need to alter it at all, unless the air temperature alters drastically in which case it will simply be a tweak to get optimum performance.

(in reply to yoiforgot)
       Post #: 52

RE: Marder big foot - 5/29/2004 9:52:49 PM   
fmolzer


 

Posts: 76
Joined: 2/2/2004
From: Shoreview, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Hi everyone. On the discussion about 26 cc vs. 23, The New Zenoah G230 Gen4 produces more power and will be on par with the 26 cc conversion kit/engine bacuase the G230 is what is raced in all 1/5 scale classes, so it has a lot more development into it than the 26 cc. cc:s aren't everything in this world. A good comparison would be a Traxxas 2.5 .15 size engine putting out 1.35 hp or so and a .12 Novarossi NS3 cranking out close to 1.5 hp out of the box. Why? Because it has been tweaked for more power, ported etc. etc. On drivability of the Big-foot, I expect that it will be as well handling as a Marder, with more ground clearance for even better rock climbing.

(in reply to gibbobaz)
       Post #: 53

RE: Marder big foot - 5/29/2004 11:20:29 PM   
ZiPi


 

Posts: 2
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: Celje, SLOVENIA
Status: offline 		On this picture you can see how big monster truck is

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< Message edited by ZiPi -- 5/29/2004 11:24:05 PM >

(in reply to fmolzer)
       Post #: 54

RE: Marder big foot - 5/30/2004 1:46:34 AM   
yoiforgot


 

Posts: 185
Joined: 12/16/2003
From: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
Status: offline 		Hello

About what temperature should the engines run? I've had a couple of nitro trucks and they're almost impossible to keep cool...Is it a good idea to buy a thermo for the engine? Do the engines usually keep at a regular running temp?

The fan on the flywheel is awesome, nitro engines don't have that and I think that's why they burn out faster.

Ben

(in reply to gibbobaz)
       Post #: 55

RE: Marder big foot - 5/30/2004 3:03:44 AM   
yorkshireboyo


 

Posts: 13
Joined: 2/22/2004
From: scunthorpe, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		has anyone actually seen the bigfoot!!?? i was in a model shop the other day and someone brought one in.Ive no idea where he got it from but yeh it looked the dogs!!,but my problem is this,it weighs much more than the marder,its very heavy indeed but has the same engine so will be much slower than the marder even with the big bore kit,i agree that it looks impressive but without a bmx track to run it on it would appear very slow.

(in reply to Doohan)
       Post #: 56

RE: Marder big foot - 5/30/2004 7:16:20 PM   
gibbobaz


 

Posts: 20
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Yoiforgot - In answer to the temperature they should run at, all I can say is hot. I've been running 1/5 on-road for over nine years and never once taken a temperature gauge to one, if the carb. settings are right they will simply run until the tank runs dry - whether you're flat out or on tickover it doesn't make any difference.

At an educated guess i'd say 130C+, but it's not something to worry about. Having the fan on the flywheel deals with the cooling effectively so it really isn't an issue.

As a point to note, the two-stroke oil that you use is critical - make sure it's fully synthetic! I used to run Rock Oil which is mineral based and would have to change the piston ring every couple of months, I now use Castrol TTS which is excellent - you don't get any carbon deposits and it keeps the engine in as new condition.

Why does everyone keep using the word slow? It's got a 4.7BHP+ motor in it - I don't really think slow comes in to it!!! Sure a Marder will be quicker but the point of a monster truck isn't outright speed - if you wanted that you would be looking for an on-road.

(in reply to yorkshireboyo)
       Post #: 57

RE: Marder big foot - 5/31/2004 1:35:21 AM   
ammdrew



Posts: 927
Joined: 2/2/2004
From: golden valley, MN, USA
Status: offline 		only two trucks exsist today. both are at FG , one is the show one for images and the other is the test and durability one. the hold up on production is the arm molds which should be ready to use very shortly. we just got back from Germany a couple of weeks ago and you will not be dissapointed in the truck. I am sure after we catch up with the current demand of trucks then we will start to see some images and videos emmerging.

(in reply to gibbobaz)
       Post #: 58

RE: Marder big foot - 5/31/2004 2:56:07 PM   
Doohan


 

Posts: 289
Joined: 10/17/2003
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		How good are Multiplex servos and do they work with JR, Hitec or Futaba radios?
I was going to use the Hitec 5735MG 1/4 scale for steering...Torque: 263.85 oz/in and Speed: 0.13 sec/60 degrees at 6.0V. ($70 US)
How does this compare to the Multiplex?

Also the MT does not have front brakes.....who makes front brakes for it?.... I want to run cable, anyone got a good set fitted to their Marder, or on road etc...that they can recommend?
Doohan

(in reply to gibbobaz)
       Post #: 59

RE: Marder big foot - 5/31/2004 8:35:45 PM   
gibbobaz


 

Posts: 20
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		In my opinion the Multiplex servos are the best available - I used to use Hi-Tec on my 5th but changed to Multiplex after killing quite a few. I have been using Mulitplex servo's for about 7-8 years and have only ever had one fail in that time.

The spec for the Jumbo running on 6v is:
Torque:255oz/in
Holding Power:460oz/in
Speed to 60 degrees:0.19 sec.

The servo is fitted with the universal plug and will work with any of the mentioned radios.

Over here in England they retail at £70 - £80.

If you want the best steering servo money can buy, check out the Tonegawa - it's torque is over 920oz/in!!! One of these monsters will set you back 220+ euros.

As for the brakes, FG make a cable operated set which are pretty good - they cost around £100 here, you will need a pretty strong servo to get the best from them (120oz/in +). The car will only come with the standard layshaft brake which to be honest isn't brilliant, especially when it gets hot.

< Message edited by gibbobaz -- 5/31/2004 8:40:36 PM >

(in reply to Doohan)
       Post #: 60

RE: Marder big foot - 5/31/2004 9:16:38 PM   
ZiPi


 

Posts: 2
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: Celje, SLOVENIA
Status: offline 		I use two Futaba 3801 in my 1:5 and I have no problems with them. Maybe you can use FG hidraulic brakes, they are very good, and I'm going to put them on my Monster truck.

(in reply to gibbobaz)
       Post #: 61

RE: Marder big foot - 6/1/2004 4:39:52 PM   
Doohan


 

Posts: 289
Joined: 10/17/2003
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Do you know a web site where I can buy them from... or some photos for the front brakes?... I want to see what the discs and callipers look like.

Also, whats the best way to hook up the servos to run straight from the battery and not the receiver. I dont think it will like all that power sucked through it from 1 or 2 1/4 scale steering servos plus 1 brake and 1 throttle servo. Do you use any high current leads or connectors?
Doohan

(in reply to gibbobaz)
       Post #: 62

RE: Marder big foot - 6/1/2004 5:49:05 PM   
gibbobaz


 

Posts: 20
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		The only website I know of selling them is http://www.modelspot.com/mpx/digiservo.htm which is a UK based shop, I'm not sure if they ship wordwide (I think they probably will).

You should be fine running the servos straight off the reciever at 6v, i'd only go to sepearate power if you want to run full 7.2v through them. I run two Mutliplex powers and a Jumbo on my 1/5th straight off the reciever and it's fine - they tend not to draw many amps which is what fries electics more than voltage. The standard leads are fine.

As for the brakes, I have some pictures of them on the rear of my 1/5th which can be seen at www.5thInsight.co.uk. They are pretty good brakes, I'll most probably be fitting a set to my MT when i get one.

(in reply to Doohan)
       Post #: 63

RE: Marder big foot - 6/1/2004 6:03:35 PM   
Doohan


 

Posts: 289
Joined: 10/17/2003
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Hmmmm...decisions, decisions!...ive been told its heaps better to run the servos straight from the 6.0v battery pack....now you recommend not doing this! Is there any advantage at all to run direct from the battery?....doesn't the receiver put it down to 4.8v anyway?

The brakes on your car look great....where can I buy them???? I prefer cable to hydraulic....can I fit the drilled discs with red callipers you have on the front of your car to the MT? or will only the rears fit?
Doohan

(in reply to gibbobaz)
       Post #: 64

RE: Marder big foot - 6/1/2004 6:27:08 PM   
gibbobaz


 

Posts: 20
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		To be honest, running the servo's directly from the battery is more hassle than its worth. All modern recievers of any quality can easily cope with supplying 6v over three channels.

In terms of the brakes, yep the drilled laser cut ones on the front look much better than the pressed steel rears, but the hyraulics cost £250! You can't use the hydraulic disks with the cable calipers as the disk is too large. The red calipers are the hydrualic units, there's no way to run them with the cable brakes i'm afraid.

< Message edited by gibbobaz -- 6/1/2004 6:29:06 PM >

(in reply to Doohan)
       Post #: 65

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