Navy0968, your plane looks great, list all the stuff you did to it ,so other that might want to do the same to their hanger 9 corsair ,I wouldn't think it was a arf. nice job.
Posts: 75
Joined: 9/16/2003 From: Denver, CO, USA Status: offline
Navy0968, Thumbs way up on your corsair mods. Really nice craftsmanship and detail. What paint did you use?
I have finally got mine back in the air this spring after its long hiatus and am really enjoying it. Love the look with full flaps on the final turn in but scale improvements are never really finished and I almost ready to install my front gear doors. I am thinking of using springs as door straps to the struts to allow for gear rotation but would like to see other working set ups. Could you post a pic of how yours operates? I would really appreciate it.
Flew the F4U-2 it at Warbirds over Denver this year and got 1st place small scale. Thanks again to Corsair Jock and Dion!
Posts: 27
Joined: 7/11/2007 From: Pinecliffe,
CO, USA Status: offline
Ed,
Congratulations on your 1st place at the Warbirds over Denver meet! Judging by your photos it was much deserved. The detail on your Corsair is incredible and the weathered/worn finish is very authentic. Yours has mine beat hands down! What a beautiful bird. Because I was a complete newbie to the RC hobby when I started this project last winter, I didn't have the confidence to tackle the flaps, but now I wish I had. They really make a Corsair. What is the weight of your airplane and what engine are you using? I installed a Saito .91 but now have serious doubts that it will provide adequate power at this altitude, since the planes finished dry weight turned out to be 10.2 lbs.
The paint I used was Sherwin-Williams automotive acrylic enamel (computer matched to Testors Model Masters Dark Sea Blue FS15042) with Top Flite Lusterkote flat clear top coat. The photos aren't quite an accurate representation of the real color.
I too obtained a great deal of information and great advice from the tutorials of Corsair Jock and Dion. I can't thank those guys enough.
I will take a couple pics of the gear door attachment and post them within a day or two.
Posts: 75
Joined: 9/16/2003 From: Denver, CO, USA Status: offline
Having you beat would always be debatable. Your craftsmanship looks looks like a well honed skill you've had before you recently started this hobby. My Corsair weighs 11.75 lbs fully loaded to fly. Very heavy compared with the unmodified arf but it flys great. Very predictable slow speed with flaps. The flap mods and fiberglass are not weight makers, its my overuse of paint to make deep panel lines.
I have a satio 100 and it gives me a fairly large loop. Think the new 115 would be a perfect match to my heavy metal and its shorter so the valve covers might stay in the cowl. Think an 91 will give you a scale flight at this alt but I always like a little extra up here. The 115 has the same lower case as the 91, your bird deserves it.
We are having a scale fly in at Cherry creek state park next sat. You should come on out and will fly some formations. We'll have trophies, prizes, and food. Think its a $20 registration and you get a nice tee with that.
Posts: 27
Joined: 7/11/2007 From: Pinecliffe,
CO, USA Status: offline
Ed,
Thanks for the info on your corsair. You have read my mind, I have been contemplating the Saito 115 for weeks, thinking it would be the perfect match for the plane.
I kinda put the cart before the horse when I built my corsair this last winter. I had never flown RC. I am currently taking lessons using the H9 Mustang PTS. It is going to be awhile before I will have the proficiency/confidence to take the Corsair up. However, someday, maybe next summer, I would love to fly formation with you. I am tied up with a wedding next weekend, otherwise I would drop down to Cherry Creek and visit with you. I am going to the Warbirds over the Rockies in Ft Collins at the end of September and may bring the corsair along just as a static display. Do you plan to attend?
Here are some photos of my gear door attachment. I used epoxy to attach a metal tab to the back of the fiberglass door. A metal band was then cut out of thin sheet metal. The band is three sixteenth of an inch wide and was simply squeezed around the gear struct to get the proper shape. I took a curved file and filed the inside edges of the band to remove the sharp edge so it wouldn't grab the strut during operation. I also applied silicone to the struct to allow the band slide more easily. To be perfectly honest, I am not sure this will be my final attachment configuration. Most of the time the band seems to slide pretty good, but once in a while it still grabs, I think due to the play in the CJ strut. If anyone else has a better method for attaching the doors, I am certainly open to suggestions.
Posts: 364
Joined: 9/25/2002 From: East Greenwich, RI,
RI, USA Status: offline
Great Thread!
I decided to get back in the air after a long layoff. Not a building layoff but a flying layoff. I have a ARF Corsair in my stash. I'll dig it up and see what it is and let the thread know.
I'm inspired again and the ARF Corsair should be a great new and interested beginning.
Unless, of course, the one I have is "not worthy."
Posts: 75
Joined: 9/16/2003 From: Denver, CO, USA Status: offline
I will be at WOD in september. I am sure we'll spot each others plane quickly so I'll see you there.
Your door set up was my first idea. Think it will work fine on your gear. Maybe add another bolt to attach your strap to keep it from swiveling and binding on the strut. You've probably designed it to swivel a little because the door is not always perpendicular to the strut but if you make the strap diameter a little bigger it could allow for that varied angle. Just an idea.
My sierra gear have several different diameters up and down the strut so a sliding strap will not work. I think a spring strap to expand around these strut segments will be my solution but I am know there other engineering ideas so if anyone has one please share.
Thanks for posting your example Navy and enjoy learning to fly. The learning process never ends in RC but that first landing is a great feeling. I keep building new planes to relive that first solo.
Posts: 364
Joined: 9/25/2002 From: East Greenwich, RI,
RI, USA Status: offline
I guess the first thing you guys do is to "strip" the H0 model of ALL covering materials. Is this correct?
If that's the case, I can start on my H9 Corsair. Strip the thing then put it back in the box till I have time for the next task.
I would love to have working flaps, especially with the use of one servo. I guess it's never been done with only one servo?
I do have a plastic model at 1/32 scale. This could help with panel lines and other detail. Anyone use plastic models for this purpose or just hunt around for photos?
Posts: 196
Joined: 8/4/2007 From: Louisville,
KY, USA Status: offline
Navy0968 - I had the same situation with my CJM retracts and I found it was caused by the width of the band...something to do with metal on metal I figured. I solved my problem by using wire and removed the band. Since I've changed mine I've always wondered if rubbing graphite on the strut would have solved my problem. Might be worth a try because the band looks better.
Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance 
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate ... - 
