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Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
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Hello all, here are a few photos of the model getting her last coat of primer. After letting it dry, I will pull the panel line tape off. Make sure you pull the tape back on it's self. In this way the tape helps cut the paint and makes a sharper line. Make sure you ground the fuse and wing when painting. Static builds up on the large part as you wipe it down with prep-sol, or degreaser. The static will make the paint stand up and do weird things. Will let it dry a day or two and start the color. Good day, Gary Webb
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Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
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Couldn't wait, Painted the model white today, and letting it have a sun bath. May start the tail colors next. will post more photos as I go. Good Day, Gary Webb
Posts: 1174
Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
OH, USA Status: offline
Hello all, took a break and enjoyed some great fellowship at the TORKs of Ohio giant scale fly-in. These people really know how to through a party! One of the nicest fields in the country, with an 800 ft hard surface and grass runway and no obstacles to run into. My kind of flying site. Terry(Mr. Top Gun) Nisch put on a great show with his Red Bull Jet. A lot of great scale models of all types. Great flying and seeing all of you! Any way, Got the juices flowing again just seeing all the new models. I masked off the tail and shot the red first. Used the wife's hair blow dryer to speed up the drying process. Then masked over the red and shot the blue. Out came the blow dryer again to get the drying process started. I then removed all the masking and set the plane out for a sun bath. I also found a trick way of removing that dreaded unwanted over spray. as good as I try to seal the mask, something always gets through. Now you can not use water, could affect the base coat as well. Seeing how the paint is still a little green. I found that the degreser dewaxer I used cleans off the over spray and leaves the bast color alone. Also I found that this product removed all the small pencil marks used to align the panel lines and rivets. Way to cool. Well I will let it set over night and then mask off the Black exhaust stripes on the side, and the Black glare panel on the cowl and front windshield.
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Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
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Well the paint dried sooner than expected in the sun, soooooo, I went ahead and masked off the areas to be painted flat black, and painted it with Testors rattle can enamel flat black. this seems to work very well with the latex paint. Here it is after the mask was pulled. this time got lucky with no over spray. Will start cutting out the decals and applying them. will have Kirby's Custom Grapics do some of the graphics. Will use some of the decales that came with the kit. I will cut the letters out, by removing all the clear from them, then using transfer paper used with vinyl graphics, pull them all from the backing keeping them in alignment. I will then apply them as I would the vinyl graphics. Good day, Gary Webb
< Message edited by gary9648 -- 7/25/2006 12:17:59 AM >
Posts: 1174
Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
OH, USA Status: offline
Hello all, Have installed the national insignias on the wing and fuse. Here are a couple photos of the fuse as it is now. Waiting of the remainder of the graphics from Kirby's Kustom graphics. Had to wait until the paint work was done to finalize the size of the remaining graphics. Also have completed the dummy radial engine that goes in the front of the cowl. In the instructions they tell you to remove the plastic between the cylinders for cooling. I only remove the material that is directly in front of the cylinder heads, (this being a twin). This way the air is forced over and through the cooling fins and is not allowed to just enter the cowl. Makes for more efficient cooling in my mind. Just like the full scale aircraft. Those panels are there between the cylinders so that the air only goes through the cylinder fins. This creates a high pressure area in front of the engine and a low pressure area directly behind the engine. This helps draw the air through the engine. I first cut a one inch ring from light ply, that fit snugly in the cowl at the correct position. I then glued the plastic engine to the ring. I then held the radial in place in front of the engine and marked the back side where the cylinder of the real engine was. I then removed this with a hot knife. ( one sold by Great Planes) I then painted it flat black. I removed the over spray from the crank case. I glued a piece of small fuel tubing to the case in front of the holes for the push rods. This simulates the ignition distribution ring. I then painted the crank case a blue Grey. I painted the ring bright silver. I dry brushed silver over the cylinders. I then painted the valve covers flat aluminum. I then added the spark plug wires. Made these from solid wire. I drilled hole for the wires through the ring into the case. This gives better glue purchase. I then glued the wires in place. I then painted the wires flat black, and painted the connectors at the plug boot and at the ring Gold. I will clear the engine when I clear the rest of the plane. I also refit all the control surfaces, and will install the hinges after the plane is cleared. Raining all day here, so can not do much more. Will be gone next couple days for the Dayton, Ohio air show. The Buckeye Aero Squadron Show Team performs the opening every day at the show, of which I am a part of. This is an AMA sponsored show team. Anyone going to the show stop by at our display and say hi. Also will be in the Tuskegee Airmen Booth. Good Day, Gary Webb
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Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
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Well, you are not going to believe this. Just as I finished the last post, Santa in the Big Brown Sleigh with wheels on it. Delivered the graphics. Here is the finished product. I will start clearing the model first of next week. Good day Gary Webb
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Joined: 1/21/2002 From: Terryville, CT, USA Status: offline
Gary, Keep up the great work. I am a huge fan of the T-28. I have never seen your paint scheme before, it looks like it is going to be really nice looking. I would love to build one someday but there are not to many kits out there. I think the Byron and the Platt are the most accurate. Anyway, I am really looking forward to seeing the finished product and hearing about the flight report!!
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Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
OH, USA Status: offline
Tony, the paint scheme is from a book called Final Tour of Duty, by Robert Genat. Actually the only book I have found showing color photos of a large cross section of T-28 A-D. This aircraft is civilian owned and was painted to represent a group down in Pensacola. I really like the way the colors on the tail stand out with the all white aircraft. I had a smaller one, Pica, painted in this scheme and really like the way it showed up in the air. This is an Iron-Bay kit. 98" wingspan. Gary
Posts: 2747
Joined: 12/13/2001 From: Litchfield Park,
AZ, USA Status: online
Here is a pic of the T-28, the only one I could find on the net. I seem to recall that this particular Trojan was written off in an accident. An N-number search reveals that the registration is now assigned to a Cessna Citation. Nice bird Gary, hope you have better luck with the model!
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RE: Byron T-28 Trojan - 
