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new sirio 12 evo 2 help please! - 5/29/2004 4:00 AM   
Mtx3XXXSJunkie



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From: Richmond, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I just got my sirio 12 evo 2 from the ups guy. The manual doesn't have near-enough information(not to mention they need to fire their translator). First, what is the removable piece in the inlet of the carb? Is it some kind of restrictor to be taken out later when I need more power? And, there is no o'ring for the base of the carb. It needs one right? If so, how am I supposed to know which one? And how about some break-in procedures. All it says is to run rich for a while with 15%. After the break-in, what % am I supposed to use? All help will be appreciated. Thanks.

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RE: new sirio 12 evo 2 help please! - 5/30/2004 2:07 AM   
newbie003



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From: Los angeles, CA, USA
Status: offline 		i have a sirio too, try these needle settings......

Sirio .12/15/18 (General Carburetor Settings)
High Speed - 5.5 turns
Low Speed - 2-1/2 (Generally this should be flush with the end of the slide)
Mid Range - Flush then one turn out

also my sirio did not come with a o'ring in the base of the carb you could get one just ask your lhs for one


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RE: new sirio 12 evo 2 help please! - 5/30/2004 6:37 PM   
Mtx3XXXSJunkie



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Joined: 2/27/2004
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From: Richmond, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Yeah, I got the needle settings off their website too but I was hoping someone could tell me the break-in procedure. Like: Run rich, don't go past 40% throttle, for 8 tanks or something like that. Thanks for trying though. Do you know what that removable piece is at the inlet of the carb? Some sort of restrictor? And, what percent fuel do they recommend with this motor? Thanks.

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RE: new sirio 12 evo 2 help please! - 5/30/2004 9:50 PM   
newbie003



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From: Los angeles, CA, USA
Status: offline 		well so far i heard running your engine on idle through out the whole break-in is that your engine will have less life...... you can read about it here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Break_in_Thread/m_1694658/tm.htm


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RE: new sirio 12 evo 2 help please! - 6/1/2004 6:08 AM   
rcuser


 

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From: Apopka, FL, USA
Status: offline 		i used this method to break my sirio in http://www.wildhobbies.com/news/default.asp?cmd=view&articleid=1054 (the heat cycle method)

but i'm pretty new to all this myself so don't hold me responsible. Anyways, that engine is very tight, everytime it got stuck at TDC i had to take the engine off the chassis heat it up with a blowdryer and turn it myself. Try adding after run engine oil to lube it and heat it up prior to trying to start it. I just finished my break in. i'm waiting for my venom speed meter to come in to see if i'm getting decent speeds out of it, and to see if my break in was proper. good luck.

by the way, what restrictor thing? i must have overlooked that. tell me if you find out what it's for. thnaks.

also read this http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/when_do_u_put_the_glow_plug_in%3F/m_1830009/tm.htm
it's a previous thread of mine and has trinity support's method of breaking it in (i had emailed them before)

< Message edited by rcuser -- 5/31/2004 10:11:00 PM >

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RE: new sirio 12 evo 2 help please! - 6/2/2004 2:32 AM   
Mtx3XXXSJunkie



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Joined: 2/27/2004
Last Login: 7/7/2006
From: Richmond, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the info. I'm going to read through all of it and then decide. I'll probably go with Trinity's recommendation but we'll see. My friend told me that piece on the inlet of the carb is a restrictor. You can remove it and buy different sizes depending on what you need for racing different types of tracks. I doubt i'll ever get into stuff like that. I'll probably run it with it in and pull it out and see what's it's like. In case you don't know what i'm talking about: If your carb is like mine, there should be a aluminum piece that is actually the air inlet for the carb. The rest of the carb is black composite so the silver aluminum is easy to see. Well, you can grab it with your fingers and twist/pull and it will come right out. So, there you go. And thanks again.

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RE: new sirio 12 evo 2 help please! - 6/7/2004 3:59 PM   
tjnmt-delete


 

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From: lakewood, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I have used this method for the past 12 years, It is a excellant choice and you will seee the results in the long run as well
1. Mark with a permanent marker pen all the initial factory needle settings. Use at least good quality 20% nitro fuel. Do NOT use low nitro content fuel. Use the fuel that you will run regularly.

2. Mark on the flywheel with a permanent marker pen for the BDC position.

3. Richen the HSN HALF a turn from factory settings. Don't touch the LSN and MSN (if the 8 port has one).

4. Run in the engine for the first 2 tanks slowly doing figure 8s on a smooth hard surface (25% throttle max), don't stay in top speed for longer than 1 second. After EVERY tank, let the engine cool down at BDC. Monitor the temperature - it should be running around 80-95C and no more, no less.

5. The same thing for the next 2 tanks but a max 50% throttle travel. Don't stay WOT for longer than 1 second. Slowly increase rpm, slowly decrease while driving. After EVERY tank, let the engine cool down at BDC.

6. Same again, 2 tanks, 75% throttle max. Heat cycle after every tank. Monitor temperature

7. Same again, 2 tanks, 100% throttle. Heat cycle after every tank. Monitor temperature.

8. You can start leaning the engine out, 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time - making sure after each needle change, you run 2-3 minutes of hard driving. Normal operating temperature should be above 95C and below 120C.

9. Tune the HSN first then, tune the LSN, then retune the HSN to accomodate any changes.

10. Keep leaning the HSN until at WOT you notice the engine is starving for fuel or losing power. You have reached the max - richen 1/4 turn.

11. To tune the LSN, keep leaning it out until you achieve the strongest acceleration.

Don't touch the middle mixture needle (if the 8 port has it). If touched, it will make some very erratic tuning which will be hard to fix later on.
1.

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