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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/11/2004 8:01:22 PM   
yard-dart



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Zagnut,

I'm sorry, I misworded what I was trying to say. What I meant was that nobody has ever stated that if one decides to run castor, that it must be total castor. I, myself, don't think that running pure castor is a bad thing, but I wouldn't choose that myself simply because of the mess, and how it could affect a four stroke in the long run (sticking valves). But, I am now a firm believer in the stuff! I think that "EVERY" engine needs "SOME" castor.

John

< Message edited by yard-dart -- 6/11/2004 2:17:44 PM >

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/11/2004 9:23:06 PM   
djlyon



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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/11/2004 9:57:36 PM   
TNRabbit



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OMG! Is this thread STILL going? It's worse than the Engergizer Bunny....


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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/11/2004 10:40:33 PM   
William Robison



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Gary:

quote:

It's worse than the Engergizer Bunny....

I think you mean "Better."

On second thought, maybe worse is the correct word.

Haw.

Bill.

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/11/2004 10:44:45 PM   
AirGar



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quote:

ORIGINAL: DarZeelon


It has been running on Model Technics Duraglow 5% nitro fuel, with Klotz BeNOL Castor oil added to a total of 20% oil.
This shows how clean Castor oil can can keep the engine, if a DEGUMMED grade is selected.


quote:

ORIGINAL: DarZeelon
The Castor oil in Duraglow is a first press and the BeNOL is specifically degummed (although some people have rumored it is bean oil...).



Aren't you contradicting yourself with these two statements or am I reading it incorrectly? First you say Klotz Benol castor oil, and then you say it's rumored to be castor?


On the Klotz label.....

"Klotz Benol is an extra fortified and de-gummed blend of virgin castor and hi-performance lubricity systems".

Also contains: "seal conditiners and preservatives".

So we can only assume, additives were blended with pure virgin castor to enhance the protection qualities.

What do you mean by "first press"? Do you mean pure virgin castor?

Gary

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/11/2004 11:25:31 PM   
ZAGNUT



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quote:

ORIGINAL: AirGar



What do you mean by "first press"? Do you mean pure virgin castor?

Gary


hebrew word for "virgin" just doesn't work when talking about oils so we use"first press"

and i've always wondered about "extra virgin".....seems like that would require a titanium chastity belt with a kryptonite lock....


dave

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/12/2004 1:54:47 AM   
William Robison



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Gary:

The beans are run through the press with a fairly wide gap first, this gets the purest oil, the easiest to squeeze out. The beans are then run through again with higher pressure to get the rest, and the second and later runs get a lower grade of oil.

Bill.

PS: Zaggie. did anyone ever tell you the Julian family was a bunch of wise guys? Haw. wr.

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/12/2004 2:21:29 AM   
AirGar



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Wow, 5 pages of "final words"....

And for those who wanted to know, but were afraid to ask:

http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/c/casoil32.html#pre

I did a search after the last few posts.... :

Gary

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/12/2004 2:49:39 AM   
Motorbrain



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Someone tell Dars that castor oil comes from castor beans. That's why
they call it castor bean oil.

MB.

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/12/2004 2:49:42 AM   
Flyboy Dave



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quote:

ORIGINAL: ZAGNUT

just the other day i mixed a batch of gas for my chainsaw....
guess what type of oil i used.

dave


I'll bet a sixer it wasn't Cruel Power !

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/12/2004 10:02:00 AM   
XJet


 

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Here's another data-point for the castor versus synthetic debate.

I have Norvel 061 (yeah, it's a tiny engine but runs real sweet).

The first liter of fuel I put through it contained 10% coolpower synthetic (blue) and 10% castor oil.

The engine ran just fine and dandy but did blow a plug and left the filiament a dull white colour after about an hour's running.

Now I'm running all castor (20%) and the engine runs just as sweet -- except that if you idle it for more than 10-15 seconds, it coughs and splutters like hell when you open the throttle. In fact, if you ram open the throttle it blubbers and dies immediately.

It's amost as if the castor is building up in the crankcase and gets blown out (into the cylinder) as the revs come back up. This is actually a real pain because it means you have to nurse the throttle open if you decide to do touch-and-gos or other such things.

Has anyone else noticed a deterioration in throttle response from idle when using straight castor versus synthetic or a synthetic/castor blend?

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/12/2004 10:12:31 AM   
DarZeelon



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Bruce,

It sounds like your Norvel's idle adjustment is set too rich.
Does this engine have an idle mixture control?

Also, are you using a home-brew 20%, or is it a commercial pre-mixed fuel?

If the Castor oil falls out of the mixture, your mixing technique may not be the best.
If it is just excess fuel collecting in the crankcase, lean the idle mixture.

Many modelers are fearful of touching the idle needle, but it needs adjustment, just like the main needle does.

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/13/2004 3:40:53 AM   
downunder



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quote:

ORIGINAL: DarZeelon
If the Castor oil falls out of the mixture, your mixing technique may not be the best.

I was unaware there was a correct technique to shaking the can...or have I just been lucky the last 40 odd years? I do however use the James Bond method, shaken, not stirred.

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/13/2004 3:57:14 AM   
William Robison



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Repeating myself: A little amyl acetate does the job.

Bill.

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/13/2004 7:23:09 AM   
XJet


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: DarZeelon
It sounds like your Norvel's idle adjustment is set too rich.
Does this engine have an idle mixture control?


There's no air-bleed or low speed needle on the Norvel but I don't think it's simply loading up due to running rich because there was no problem transitioning with the synth/castor blend and I've set the needle for a nice sweet song at full throttle in both cases.

quote:


Also, are you using a home-brew 20%, or is it a commercial pre-mixed fuel?

If the Castor oil falls out of the mixture, your mixing technique may not be the best.
If it is just excess fuel collecting in the crankcase, lean the idle mixture.


It's homebrew but the castor isn't falling out of the solution -- the litre I've mixed up shows no sign of separating.

quote:


Many modelers are fearful of touching the idle needle, but it needs adjustment, just like the main needle does.


Not a problem when you don't a have one :-)

I guess it's just a trait I'll have to learn to live with. When I've half-used this litre of fuel I'll add 500ml of the fully synthetic blend I've mixed for larger engines and that'll put me back to a 10%/10% oil blend.

< Message edited by XJet -- 6/13/2004 2:24:16 AM >

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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 6/13/2004 7:24:47 AM   
Ernie Misner


 

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Bruce,

(straight) Castor is taking away too much of the tiny engine's heat with it to keep the fire reliably lit. We used to run straight castor in all the small engines, but back then they did not idle or transition at all.

Also, I don't think the idea behind this thread was to compare synthetic to straight castor. Most of our modern fuels have only a small amount of castor in the mix.

Ernie

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