Posts: 1803
Joined: 7/6/2003 From: STATESBORO,
GA, USA Status: offline
[This is what I like to see. No rust, crud or burnt anything. Just clean, shiny, metal coated with oil-- the way an engine should look]
That is the way my engines look. BS- all run with castor. I can't imagine what you fellows who have problems with castor are doing wrong. Perhaps there is some common factor that will provide a clue???
Posts: 6978
Joined: 4/9/2003 From: Rosh-Ha'Ayin, ISRAEL Status: offline
Jess,
Anyone who has had any problem with Castor oil, has been running a medicinal (sugar added) grade, or another type of non-degummed Castor.
With Klotz BeNOL, Morgan CleanCastor, Baker's AA (Sig), Model Technics (UK), or other brand of first press, degummed Castor oil; will only have the hot sections (combustion chamber and exhaust port) with an appearance of anodized brown.
The rest of the engine remains clean.
Castor oil is still the best and most protective lubricant and everybody is trying to find a replacement for it. Someday maybe they will.
I always use some Castor oil (8.5-11%) in my lubricant package.
Posts: 7651
Joined: 1/21/2002 From: Acworth,
GA, USA Status: online
Blown oil of oll poorly stored oil will be darker in color. Our castor oil will not dry or oxidize readily in paints. By blowing air at high temperatures the oil partialiy oxidizes and an H2O molecule is peeled off and it becomes a drying oil. As a drying oil it will gum and harden readily. There is no gum acutally removed from castor oil as I know of. I think some manufactures have removed the term degummed. Medical and cooking castor oil is tested for traces of ricien poisen.
Bill, that is the remainder of a 3x5 card cut muffler gasket.
Motorbrain--Yes, it does look like a new one doesn't it-- It's only 4 1/2 years old and 5+ cases of Coolpwer and WildCat 100% synthetic. It has a gold spot on top of the piston that wipes off easily.
Jim-- exactly, acidic conditions do promote rusty steel. Hygroscopic fuels promote moisture and more rust but the aluminum will still shine. I like my steel to shine too.
Sport pilot- I know a rusty bearing when I see, hear and feel it. With your comments on how our clean, shiny synthetic oiled bearing is really rusty, and a 'gravely' sounding Castor bearing that looks like these really isn't rusty, you obviously don't have a clue.
Except for a two or three bushed engines and a couple new ones, I've had to replace the bearings in all my engines run on castor at least once.
Here's just a few:
1- TT.46, 8 years old, many cases of fuel, two sets of bearings 2- TT 120, 10 years old, two sets of bearings. 3- OS 46FX's, one 3 years, other 7, lots of fuel, older has had bearings replaced, both need it again.
Posts: 7651
Joined: 1/21/2002 From: Acworth,
GA, USA Status: online
quote:
Sport pilot- I know a rusty bearing when I see, hear and feel it. With your comments on how our clean, shiny synthetic oiled bearing is really rusty, and a 'gravely' sounding Castor bearing that looks like these really isn't rusty, you obviously don't have a clue.
I didn't say the bearing rusted, just worn out from poor lube, or just a poor bearing after about 6 months. If you are talking about the congealed oil on bearings, especially ones that have been stored for a long time, you are looking at the geled oil, not rust, you have been unnecessarily replacing oil. I don't know what you been by 'gravely' unlest the bearings are making gostly sounds, but sometimes the bearings can get stuck when sitting a while, just flood the engine with fuel, let it sit and the castor oil will dissolve. If you use the engine continously it will not congeal and look much as Will Robinson has shown.
Posts: 7651
Joined: 1/21/2002 From: Acworth,
GA, USA Status: online
Those bearings look good to me, wrong color for rust. Hard to say though, you would have to clean off the castor to be sure. Same for the crank, looks as though it was stored for a time.
1- ST GS40, 4 years old, only 10 flights and not even broke-in, bearing rusty and noisy. 2- Saito FA.72 new with only 1.5 gallons of break-in, surface rust on bearing races already. 3- LA40, 3 years old, no bearings but lots of rust. 4- same .72 exhaust valve, lots of build-up already, no wonder they stick after a few gallons.
< Message edited by Boomstriker -- 6/14/2004 7:17:05 PM >
Posts: 1992
Joined: 10/7/2003 From: Austin,
TX, USA Status: offline
My dad gave me a few CL motors once that he used when he first flew...they were about 40 years old at the time. They only had Castor really back then. They were completely frozen. Took them apart and cleaned them. The castor was a light to dark brown color gel plastic that had turned into the color of dried varnish in the bottom of an old paint can. The stuff was hard as plastic. After 24 hours in alcohol, cleaned up real nice...NO RUST! The alcohol was brown rust colored.
I don't believe you should see much rust with any kind of "oil" though...castor or synth unless your motor is sitting out in the rain. Oil is aliphatic and hydrophoebic. A motor with 10 flights and broken bearing, an engine with 1.5 gallon of fuel, can't be blamed on any oil....or any fuel. You have to be doing something else extraneous to be destroying your engines. No engine is made that can sit at the bottom of your pool for the season.
Again this is the wrong color for rust. Rust when removed with a solvent leaves the solvent the color of red clay, though mixing with motor oil and dirt can turn it reddish brown.
Posts: 1992
Joined: 10/7/2003 From: Austin,
TX, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot
quote:
alcohol was brown rust colored.
Again this is the wrong color for rust. Rust when removed with a solvent leaves the solvent the color of red clay, though mixing with motor oil and dirt can turn it reddish brown.
though mixing with motor oil and dirt can turn it reddish brown. EXACTLY!
I don't want to get in to a symantic discussion about the color of rust. It looks reddish-brown to me though. When I think of red, I think of Old Glory Red...and that it ain't. Anything close to brown in my book, is brown. And rust is the oxidative process of steel. Besides the screws, the glow plug and a few odds and ends...there is virtually NO significant amounts of steel in a glow motor. The oxidative process of Aluminum turns the aluminum from shiny to dull...so the color is grey/black. And, in that case, I see aluminum oxidatation (AL rust) and pitting in virtually every picture here.
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RE: Castor oil - A final word? - 
