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PLEASE help me find a good thermal ship?? - 6/8/2004 7:26:53 PM   
4shizzle



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Joined: 5/22/2004
From: , NY, USA
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Hey... im looking for a good thermal ship at a good price. Ive been flying glow for years and some cheesy gliders. I want something that i can really learn to soar with. I live in NY so i figured i would deal with NES but ive heard that some people have had problems with threm. I saw their Renny 2M and with such a light wing loading I figured theres no way it wont thermal. Is there anything more to the equation than just light wing loading??? Well thanks for the help.
Rick

< Message edited by 4shizzle -- 6/9/2004 5:50:50 PM >
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RE: looking for a good thermal ship?? - 6/9/2004 12:37:19 AM   
Rick K


 

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From: Fontana, CA, USA
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Hey guy, You need to give us a little more detail about what you want: 2m, standard or open? 2ch, 3ch . . . full house? A full build kit, a ARF,RTF etc. What kind of flying ya gonna do? Fun flying, casual Comp. , serious Comp. RES or NOS? What to you is a 'good' price? $500 can be a good price for a full on Comp. ship as is $30 for a simple 2ch full build fun flyer. Give us that Info. and we'll point you in the right direction.
A new guy with lots of dough can go out and spend a good hunk of it buying a $1000+ 'Super Buzzard' RTF glass/carbon Comp. slipper and be very un-happy with the result where he'd been very happy with the $25 'Chepo Skate' fun-flyer 2ch full build wood kit. Spending big money doesn't always equal big fun, especialy for a beginner, that holds true for just about any endeavor.
Most everyone starts with a 2-3ch, 2m fun-flyer costing (these days) between $50-$125 depending on Const. type (you do it/they did it). Some examples of these that are 'classic' designs are: The 'Gentile Lady' by Carl Goldberg models, The 'Spirit' series of planes by Great Planes. There are many others that fit this bill. These and others are available from the major mail-order places: Tower Hobbies, Hobby People etc. The two planes I mentioned are the ones your going to hear recommend over and over again . . . with good reason, either one is a good place to start for a new guy, even one with previous power plane experence.
Rick

(in reply to 4shizzle)
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RE: looking for a good thermal ship?? - 6/9/2004 2:16:56 PM   
4shizzle



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Joined: 5/22/2004
From: , NY, USA
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Ok.well i guess we are starting to get somewhere... thanks for the post... Im looking for a sailplane in the 2M category. Im not gunna be a serious comp. flyer just some crusing around looking for thermals. I really like a AFR because time is an issue. I would also like it to at least have ailerons, rudder, elevator. It can have spoilers and flaps also. Price range would have to be in the 200 dollar area. I would also like it to be strong and handle a good winch launch and be a good performer in slow and fast speed ranges. Also.. like i said before... how much does the wing loading play into how well it will thermal??? And if you guys have any good sites that can teach me about soaring that would be great... Im really looking for something thats not a straight beginer ship. well... thanks fellas see ya
rick
p.s. this is one plane ive been looking at.. what do you think???? I heard some bad feedback from some people that have dealt with them tho...
http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=1185

(in reply to Rick K)
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RE: looking for a good thermal ship?? - 6/10/2004 3:27:59 AM   
Rick K


 

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From: Fontana, CA, USA
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HI, Well I followed the link you posted . . . That Renny 2M looks like a really nice plane, before looking at it I was going to reccomend the Spirit Elilte ARF but as I like a light wing loading I would have to really think about it, if the 4oz Sq/ft difference favoring the Renny is worth the extra $100 it costs. I really like a plane with as light a wing loading as possible and by any standard anything less than 7oz is light. As I recall the Spirit Elite is at around 9.5oz Sq/ft. You asked what the deal is about wing loading . . . Geez, now we're going to open Pandora's box, for some folks wing loading 'discussions' can lead to fisti-cuffs. Seriously, different people have different opinons and Ive seen popular majority's shift twice since Ive been in the hobby. First light as possible was thought of as the way to go (mid to late 70's) They designed plane so light and, as a result, fragile that you'd be lucky to get more than a few flights on them. Folded wings were very common as were snaped tails. Remember: Carbon fiber was still a secret, brand new material just beginning to be used in full-scale aircraft.
The reasoning was that lighter planes needed less lift (thremal activity) to stay up and had as a result a higher L/D ratio. large, long high aspect wings (13/1+) were also the rage, as much as 4M and more. The planes did fly very well in dead calm conditions as long as you didn't overstress them. There was a problem tho' they didn't fly up-wind well, if at all making spot landings almost impossable. as most contests were (and are) won in the landing circle because of the much higher number of landing points to flight time points, It didn't matter very much how well you did as to time if you could nail the landing. In the late 70's some guys got wise to this and started to build planes with higer wing-loadings and shorter wings to lower drag, both to increase penatration into the wind. If there was anykind of wind these guys won. The 'floaters' couldn't compete and converted to the 'lead sleds'. Another arguement for the lead-sledders was that they flew faster, allowing them to cover more sky: increasing their chance of finding lift.

The thing was/is that these planes fly fast except when going into a stiff wind, they don't like (can't) go slow unless you start to add flaps and start wondering how much and when. flaperons, spoilerons, multi ch mixing, expensive computer radios to do it. Spending hours you could be flying trying to learn how to program the radio , spending more time between flights 'tweaking' the mixs than flying the plane and when flying thinking more about futher 'tweaks' than enjoying the flight . . . Where did the fun go? What happend to the simple fun contests. As in everyother sport, there are those who have the money and willing to 'buy' their wins, the other guys either pony up or just quit competing.

Back to the future: Enter NOS and RES competition, the rules make it imposible to out spend or out tech everyone (so far) in NOS Comp. The three control surface requirement of RES also tends to keep costs low. Both also tend to keep speeds down. When I thermal I like to go slow, if I want to go fast I'll go sloping. After thinking about it, I'd go ahead and get the 'Renny'
Rick

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RE: looking for a good thermal ship?? - 6/10/2004 9:51:12 PM   
4shizzle



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From: , NY, USA
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ok.... well thanks for the insight. Im still not sure what im gunna do but ill be making my mine up shorty and ill let you know how i made out. If anyone else has any comments.... feel free!! Thanks again
rick

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RE: looking for a good thermal ship?? - 6/11/2004 4:47:21 AM   
BMatthews



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From looking at the site and looking at the numbers on the airfoil from Profili I see this is a model with a mixed outlook that may just be a great performer. The overall weight is very light and the model is quite compact with just under 500 sq inches. But the airfoil is thin and low in camber (2.15%). This would certainly be an interesting model to fly. The light weight and slippery airframe reminds me of Mark Drela's Allegro-Lite sailplane.

However did you notice the 6 servo requirement? We are talking small stuff here. Mini and/or micro. Also you obviously need a mixing radio for the V tail and since it's there you may as well mix in some elevator compensation for the flaps and plan on mixing in full span camber changing for the flaps and ailerons.

In other words this is not normally a model that will respond well to 1/2 measures in the radio and setup. Although I suppose for sport flying you could just put a locking pushrod onto the flaps and ground adjust the flap and aileron droop angles for how you want to fly. That way you could add the flap servos later if you want.

Regardless of how you work it for the model and radio this is not a model that will be easy and relaxing to fly like a radio'ised free flight style like a Gentle Lady would be. Models of this type require constant flying and gentle nudges at the levers to maintain trim in the turbulence. Speed maintanence in turns and due to upsets from turbulence is probably the biggest skill that you will need to sharpen up in a hurry. You may think as a power flyer you know how to do this but I can guarantee that a sailplane of this type will humble you real quick. Once you master smooth turns that maintain constant speed you'll be a better pilot though.

It'll be a challenge but once you get used to this model I think you'll have a winner. Just don't be surprised when your first few flights are dismally short. This ship is a hotrod and it'll take a few days of flying to come to terms with it and sharpen your precision flying skills to control the model with the finess that it needs. It'll also take some time to learn the best speeds for minimum sink and maximum penetration with minimum altitude loss. And my final hiint is learn to use the elevator trim as a regular control. You can really go places if you know how many clicks of trim there are between the various flight settings for minimum sink and best L/D. I use mine so much I've got a one inch 2-56 screw threaded into the lever so it sticks up like a third control stick.

Best of luck and come back with your results when you've flown it. I'd be very interested in how you make out with the power to "proper" flying conversion...

BTW for what it is this model is a screaming good deal $ wise from what I can see.

_____________________________

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RE: PLEASE help me find a good thermal ship?? - 6/11/2004 3:47:53 PM   
FLYBOY



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Look at the gentle lady. You can't go wrong. Best flying 2 meter bent wing bar none. The ARF is about $100. I thought that was steep till I looked at the price of the kit, covering, glues and time. Its actaully not that bad. I have had probably 10 of them in the last 25 years. Great glider.

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Fly it till the wings come off.

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RE: PLEASE help me find a good thermal ship?? - 6/11/2004 5:43:11 PM   
4shizzle



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Joined: 5/22/2004
From: , NY, USA
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Awesome... im glad to get a few different angles on it. As far as camber... no idea what that is all about and L/D... well what does that stand for. I dont think because im a good power pilot that ill be great at this.... I think it will be a much harder skill to master but i just wanted to give you an idea of where im at. So thanks for the help and if you guys could fill me in on some other technical things about soring that i should be aware of as well as clearing up some of this terminology i would appreciate it greatly.
Rick

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RE: PLEASE help me find a good thermal ship?? - 6/11/2004 7:49:23 PM   
BMatthews



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Camber is the middle line of any airfoil. If you draw a line halfway between the upper and lower surfaces of any airfoil you get the camber line. If you download Profili 2 at www.profili2.com and go into the airfoil directory they are listed with the %thickness and % camber values. The camber value on sailplanes is often a good indicator of the speed range the airfoil will be happiest flying at. For general thermal flying I tend to like stuff around 2.5% as it offers a good speed range with decent slow speed operation. Getting down near 2% and less and you've got a good speed ship that really wants to see full span camber changing to get a bit of a boost in the slow speed area. Going up to 3 and more % and you usually have a floater on your hands that often doesn't not like flying fast. Using flaps/ailerons for camber changing alters the camber line and can help shift the airfoil's happy spot to a new range. Low camber can be increased and high camber decreased this way. But it's not all gravy. Altering the camber this way is usually not as good as a proper purpose designed and shaped airfoil of the same camber. But for small amounts it can be a great advantage. Some special airfoils are designed to work with flaps over a 3 or 4 degree range with a minimum of bad side effects. The Helmut Quabek range and a few of the special Selig offerings come to mind. The HN 1033A also looks to be one of these with a noticable "kink" at about the 80 to 85% mark in the lower surface shape.

L/D is Lift over Drag. The best L/D refers to the speed that the model covers the most ground for the least altitude loss. The sink rate at this speed is higher than the minimum near stall speed but you can cover ground the most effectively. This is commonly the speed you would want to fly in order to get over "there" where you see a buddy circling in lift. Or if you get caught downwind and low you set it to this speed or a trifle faster to get home depending on the wind velocity.

The minimum sink speed can often be hard to spot with advanced models like the Renny. Common practice with floater type models is to just fly close to the stall speed. With "hot" airfoils like the HN1033 the minimum sink speed will probably be a few mph faster than that. When on the edge of the stall these airfoils can often suffer from higher drag. But in this case it's a good thing. Aileron gliders often suffer from tip stalling so a slightly higher minimum sink speed is an advantage because it'll tend to make you avoid that speed range.

Sometimes turbulators can be used to extend the low speed hang but this is a case by case thing. However looking at all the open covered area on the Renny I suspect it would be worth playing with turbulators after you get to know the model.

A couple of hints you'll need for this conversion to gliding. Use lots of differential throw in the ailerons. Lots of up and very little down. This will really help to avoid tip stalling. But even with that do not be tempted to horse it around with large aileron movements when low and slow. It'll bite you and cartwheel. Best to be gentle on the sticks and use minimal movement when slow.

To set the optimum CG location you'll want to do the "dive test" after you get used to the model. Do a search on this forum and you'll turn up some good writeups on this.

And last but not least. Do not be tempted to set up this model with sport stunt type throws. It'll make it VERY hard to fly when it's in a thermal way out at the limit of your vision. It should be set up so it feels very much like a trainer or mild sport model in every axis. This will make it much easier to fly on "autopilot" when you need to depend as much on your instincts as your vision.

I also mentioned that speed management on these models is imperative. A trick I learned is to guage my speed by looking at how many fuselage lengths per time the model flies through. It's a visual judgement method that has the advantage of working at any distance unlike the usual zoom past your head style of speed judging. Of course this changes for each model but with some stick time it works pretty good for me.

I often say that flying a glider is one of modeling's easier ways to just fly. But flying a glider WELL is one of the harder things to do. The precision and challenges needed for successful piloting and model observation in order to soar has kept my intrest up for years.

_____________________________

Witty saying to be plagarized shortly.....

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RE: PLEASE help me find a good thermal ship?? - 6/11/2004 9:37:30 PM   
4shizzle



Posts: 38
Joined: 5/22/2004
From: , NY, USA
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well.... I keep learning more about this with every post. The renny was on sale for 189.00 last week so i wrote them an e-mail to see if they would be able to cut me a deal. So... if all goes well... i should have one here shortly or i might have to find another. So... if you have some other info let me know!!! Thnaks again!!
Rick

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RE: PLEASE help me find a good thermal ship?? - 6/11/2004 9:58:18 PM   
Rick K


 

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Rick, In perhaps somewhat simpler terms than Bruce uses, the lift to drag ratio (L/D) is a percentage measurement of how much drag (bad) you will get for the ammount of lift (good) generated with various airfoils at various speeds. The deal is to Generate enough lift to overcome the weight of the plane while making Min. resistance to the air (drag). You can make the lift quite easily by using a thick/fat, flat bottomed aifoil . . . but it's not going to go very fast (because of the induced drag caused by the air having to go a 'long' distance over the top of the wing) or 'penatrate' (go up wind) well. A typical example would be the airfoil on a 'Gentile Lady' You could also generate the same amount of lift using a 'thinner' or more symmetrical airfoil and going faster. Example: a Sagitta 600. Sounds like the way to go except one little thing . . . ya gotta land at some point. That thiner wing needs to go at a faster speed than you'd want when landing in order to keep making enough lift to fly at all. Most pilots and their planes like things to happen as slow as possible at this point so to get that wing to need less speed you change the airfoil by adding flaps which will both slow things down by increasing drag and gererate enough lift to keep flying at the slower speed.
On a high lift, slow speed airfoil where it doesn't seem to want to slow down enough you'd use 'spoilers' to get rid of all that slow speed lift to get it to land exactly where you want it to and not float endlessly down the field 6" off the ground, two-hundred feet past the landing circle. But now youv'e added more weight which requires more lift which . . . which means trade-offs, you just need to decide where to make them and what's going to be traded for at what cost (performance and $'s)
Camber: looking end on to a section of the wing, the concave shape of the bottom wing surface, = more lift but more drag
Reflex: A convex shape of the upper 1/4 to 1/3 of the TE wing surface, =less drag but (I bet you figured it) less lift, nothing's free here!

Both may be designed in or may be changed by varing the airfoil's shape, moving the flaps and ailerons up (reflex) or down (camber) together. You can move them in opposite directions, flaps down (+++drag ---lift), and ailerons up(+drag -lift) for landing, the plane does't quite fall out of the sky but comes down smartly and yet controllably

The Spirit series of planes approaches these 'trade-offs' by using different wing designs, a semi-symmetrical poly wing in the 'sport' Spirit wood U-build it kit or ARF. using spoilers for glide control and 3ch. Or you can go for the Spirit Elite straight wing 6ch with ail's & flaps.

I hope this makes some sense to somebody . . . anybody!
Rick K

< Message edited by Rick K -- 6/11/2004 10:14:49 PM >

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RE: PLEASE help me find a good thermal ship?? - 6/12/2004 6:32:40 PM   
BMatthews



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I was checking something else at the NESail site last night and happened to click on the weekly sale button. The Renny is on sale for under $200 right now. A bargain from what I can see.

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RE: PLEASE help me find a good thermal ship?? - 6/12/2004 7:04:12 PM   
4shizzle



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From: , NY, USA
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yea.... thats the electric version not the plain one. Idont know exactly what the differences are.

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