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RE: YS CLUB - 12/13/2009 4:53 AM   
Barry Cazier


 

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From: Idaho Falls, ID, USA
Status: offline 		I just refered back to my notes. On 5-7-08 I did a thrust and RPM test. I was getting 8.5lbs thrust and 11200 RPM. Runs like a top. Very nice engine.
Thanks
BArry


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RE: YS CLUB - 2/24/2010 10:03 PM   
Union Models


 

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From: Manchester, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Hi guys,

Wondering if you could help.

I have a YS110s running on Optimix 20/20 MV ( Medium Viscosity oil ) the engine runs well, and you say... my problem is, it drinks fule like crazy. I didn't use to. I'm running a tetra standard clunk 14oz tank and I'm getting 8 minuites of flying patton schedual.

When I bought this engine, it never used as much fuel as this before.

Is my regulator open too much, or am I running it too rich ?

My settings are as follows:
Prop APC 14x12
engine is inverted in model
new YS 4 stroke plug
Fuel Optimix 20 MV fourstroke
reg set just in from flush
high speed needle 1 1/4 turns out
low speed needle 2 1/2 turns out


I appreciate anyones help.

Thanks
Mike

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RE: YS CLUB - 2/25/2010 4:30 PM   
Basement Troll



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Status: offline 		It sounds like your regulator is stuck open. You might try taking it apart and cleaning it with alcohol. Make sure you put it back on facing the correct direction. I have 2 110's, one running with a 10oz tank and I get 9-10 minutes out of it. It's on a light model, (Reactor Bipe). The other one has a 12oz tank and I get at least 10 minutes on it. It the transition on the engine still ok?

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RE: YS CLUB - 2/25/2010 7:05 PM   
rlipsett


 

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From: hingham, MA, USA
Status: offline 		if your regulator is stuck open check to see after you run the engine for a few seconds if your inverted engine is free flowing fuel out of the intake, if its open it should be pouring fuel out of the intake

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RE: YS CLUB - 2/25/2010 11:15 PM   
Union Models


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Guys,


Thanks for your posts.

The transision is smooth.
On tickover holding 2k rpm I can pick the model up, hold the model inverted, and smartly put it back on the ground again, and it still on tickover. No problems there.

When the engine stops, theres no fuel dripping out of the intake. This is what puzzles me, the engine appears to run great, but eats fuel at an impressive rate.

If the regulator was open a little too much, and the high speed needle open a little on the rich side, would this contribute to appear like too much fuel being passed.

I'm wondering, if this can be possiable, I have the engine setup at present on the rich side. If I were to wind the regulator in reset the H/S needle and then L/S needle, would I have shifted all the settings to one using less fuel ??

The tapets are set to 0.05mm

I heard of another guy with the same problem, but he just lived with it.

Mike

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RE: YS CLUB - 2/26/2010 12:06 AM   
Basement Troll



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From: Caledonia, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Most of the time my HS needle is turned out a bit more than that, (1.5 to 1.75 turns), but I'm flying in fairly cold weather and that changes the HS setting. If you're going to adjust the regulator make the adjustments in very small increments. I would still try cleaning the regulator. That amount of fuel use sounds excessive.

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RE: YS CLUB - 3/5/2010 6:57 PM   
Union Models


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Guys,

I revisited the setting on the YS. However, if I start the engine slightly above tickove ie 3000rpm, let it warm up for 30 seconds, roll the throttle to full, back to tickover, everythings fine.

If I start the engine on tickover 2000rpm leave it to run for 30 seconds then roll it to full throttle, the engine coughs at 1/4 - 1/2 throttle.

Is this because the low speed needle is too rich, filling the engine with fuel, therefore it struggles to burn it off for a smooth transition ?

Thanks

Mike

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RE: YS CLUB - 3/6/2010 5:15 AM   
Basement Troll



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From: Caledonia, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Hi Mike,
Remember the idle screw is opposite most engines. When you turn the screw clockwise you are making the mixture richer. Counter clockwise is leaner. In my experience, the regulator is the only thing that effects response. The idle screw is only to set idle. I would suggest you mark where your regulator screw is now, then turn it clockwise about 1/8th of a turn and try it again. Keep doing this until it stumbles when you advance the throttle quickly. Then turn it back the 1/8th until it transitions quickly. I have never had to play with the idle screw much. Pay close attention to how much you move the regulator screw so you can move it back to where you started if things go badly. Without having the engine to listen to, it's hard to give good advice. Try this link as well. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_197/tt.htm You may find something here.
Don

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RE: YS CLUB - 3/6/2010 10:00 PM   
Union Models


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks Don,

I'll give the link you posted a look into.

Thanks for the advice, I'll try the engine again.

Mike

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RE: YS CLUB - 3/12/2010 6:38 PM   
Union Models


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks for your help, my YS is now running perfect.

Mike

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RE: YS CLUB - 4/29/2010 2:43 AM   
MRMcFarlandM



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Status: offline 		Hi Guys,
I am wanting to put a 140 DZ on a big profile. Any ideas on what type of muffler to use? I was wanting to stay away from the articulate pipe/muffler setup like I use on the P-plane.

Thanks Mike,

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Mike

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RE: YS CLUB - 4/29/2010 4:36 AM   
Cyberwolf



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Status: offline 		What type of noise restrictions do you have at your field or for you own personal prefference?

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RE: YS CLUB - 4/30/2010 2:34 AM   
MRMcFarlandM



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Status: offline 		No special restrictions, but I am not a big fan of running just a header pipe on a 4c. I am looking for something similar to what I have on my YS 110S or satio 125.

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RE: YS CLUB - 4/30/2010 7:39 PM   
Cyberwolf



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Status: offline 		Either the mufflers for the 110 -91FZ sounds like what your looking for then, one word of caution though the 3 screws that hold the back half of the muffler should have lock tite on them, *S* don't ask how I know this. The mufflers than originally come on the 91 AC may also be a good choice. I have one NIB and never been ran so I can't comment on how well it performs.
Myself I run the original straight pipe that come on the 120 SF models on all of my YS engines except the 91FZ, I just use the stock muffler with the baffle out of it. Works great and has gobs of power, while still muffeling the noise fairly well.
Good luck with whatever muffler you decide on.I'm sure the YS will have more than enough for the plane.
Richard.

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RE: YS CLUB - 5/1/2010 2:13 AM   
MRMcFarlandM



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Status: offline 		I figure as long as I am looking for help I might as well ask before I give and send it it to YS parts and service.
I recently put bearings in my YS 110S and now the thing won't run below full throttle. It acts like I have a massive air leak or
the regulator is messed up. It has good tank pressure and compression, I have check the cam timing and it looks good.
this is the first time I have taken one of the engines with the ring on the crank and rubber seal behind the front bearing apart.
Any ideas on what I messed up.
1 more bit of info when you close the carb with the line to the carb unhooked fuel quits pumping out below about half throttle,
when spinning it with a starter.

A trivia question, on these engine with the seal on the crank how do the pressure impulses get up to the regulator.

Thanks Mike,

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Mike

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RE: YS CLUB - 5/1/2010 3:49 AM   
Cyberwolf



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Status: offline 		Sorry on that one cause i'm in the same boat as you were. I have never had one of those apart yet. But I think it gets it pressure back thru the case like the 140's do, But I could be totally wrong here.
What all did you change besides the bearings, any gaskets or Orings?
Maybe someone with some experence could shed some light on this?
Also a call to YS service to Richard Verano could maybe answer all of your questions W/O sending it in to them. I don't think we have anyone in the YS manufactures forum anymore since Troy left.
I forgot one thing Somewhere I read about a brass bushing that gets turned blocking off the fuel flow in the 110S series, since you have the engine you would have a better idea than I of where it might be at.

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RE: YS CLUB - 5/1/2010 5:11 PM   
MRMcFarlandM



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Status: offline 		I did change the gaskets, but not the O-rings they all looked in very good shape.

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Mike

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RE: YS CLUB - 5/16/2010 6:42 AM   
nitro wing


 

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Status: offline 		YS 140 sport just broken in (last season) was running very well

Running Cool Power 30% Heli synthetic
Died on Taxi, starts, runs fine, settings seem OK,.pull glow driver, 20 seconds later dies everytime, change settings,no improvement.
Repeat 20x no results
Change glow plug new OS #F

Its now 8 months later
Starts runs fine settings seem OK,pull glow driver,dies 10 seconds later every time. adjust seetings,no change..lots of swearing now..

now what? maybe a fresh jug of fuel?

It runs as it should with the glow driver attached, pull it and it dies after 10 seconds. Why the flame outs?




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RE: YS CLUB - 5/16/2010 7:03 AM   
Cyberwolf



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Status: offline 		Sounds like its to rich on the bottom to me. If a YS is tuned right they will run in any mounting position, let me guess yours is inverted Correct?

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RE: YS CLUB - 5/16/2010 7:06 AM   
nitro wing


 

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Status: offline 		mounted sideways. I keep leaning the low end,the manual states that its counter clockwise to lean it,Correct?

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RE: YS CLUB - 5/16/2010 6:30 PM   
Cyberwolf



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From: Blackfoot , ID, USA
Status: offline 		Humm thats a supprise, the low end adjustment is nothing more than a airbleed type adjustment , so yes by turning the Screw CCW allows more air to enter the system.
Are you doing the HSN first to obtain Max RPM's then idle it for a few and see how the transition is, but mainly see if the engine gains RPM's or looses them, at a idle 2000 RPM's or less anything above that is a false reading. Also is the screw on the reg flush with the housing. As a rule that is a good place to start out at.
One more item before you go twisting the heads off of the needles, have you checked valve lash? I know you said you had changed the plug, but inmproper valve lash can and will give a undesirable running condition.
One thing I didn't ask before but will now when you pull off the glow starter and the engine dies, does it speed up and die or slow down and die.
Also check the one way check valve to make sure there is nothing in it and it's holding good tank pressure.

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RE: YS CLUB - 5/16/2010 8:40 PM   
nitro wing


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks for the suggestions
I will go thru each one later

Yes the HS was set for maximum and then turned rich a 1/4 turn.transition and idle were nice only with glow driver installed. when I pull it, the engine runs the same revs up and idles fine,then just flames out without rrpm changes either during higher or lower rpm or idle.

Tank pressure seems low,not getting the usual hiss when I unplug the lines, just a little "pft".
I will pull the cowl and go thru all lines filters and check valve.

Is the a valve lash procedure on line somewhere? not sure if the small manual covers this or not.

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RE: YS CLUB - 5/16/2010 10:49 PM   
Cyberwolf



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Status: offline 		I am sure it's covered 0n several sites aircraftprovinggrounds.com i'm sure has it as well as ysperformance.com.
But its not hard to do, the main thing is to have the correct feeler gage, which is .004 or 1 mm thick.Some like to adjust the intake a little bit different than the exhaust, but I myself don't, I set them both at .004 and be done with it. One thing most don't mention is to warm the engine up before you adjust the valves. I do this myself although it may not be a necessity, it make's me feel better doing it like that.
Ok I will run thru it for you real quick here and if it's as clear as mud please tell me and I will try to straighten things out.
There are two ways to adjust the valves one at a time or you can do both at the same time, remove the plug and put a tooth pick or small wood dowel in the hole and gently turn the engine over untill to fell the piston come to TDC, there is a timing mark that should line up when your there. At that position you can adjust both intake and exhaust valves at the same time, but care needs to be taken to insure that the engine is not turned away form the TDC mark. Also turn the engine over the same direction it runs in.
Break the jam nut loose before you start to do any adjustments, sometimes they can be real snug. While holding the gage under the rocker and valve stem use a allen wrench to snug it up just so it a slip fit with very little pull pressure on the gage,do this a few times to insure you have got the correct clearance required, most if not all of the time the clearance will change slighty when you tigthen down the jam nut.
The other way is to watch the valve your working on when it stops moving with just a slight turn the other valve will start to move that is whats called the valve overlap and is the correct place to adjust that valve . Repeat the same for the other valve cylce the engine thru a few times and recheck it to make sure it was indeed in the correct place, put a new gasket or reuse the old one if it's in good shape.(IMPORTANT REMEMBEER A YS ENGINE CAN'T LEAK AIR ANYWHERE EVEN AROUND THE VALVE COVER SO BE SURE THE OLD GASKET IS IN GOOD SHAPE AND ABLE TO CREATE A SEAL).
Button it back up and your good to go.
One other thing crossed my mind and that is the fuel, how old is it ,what kind and what nitro and ol content does it contain?
Where your saying it dosen't have the tank pressure it has leads me to think it maybe the regulator, checkvalve,tank or the lines.
All it takes is a very minute piece of dirt or gum in the reg to really create havock with these engines or a pin hole or and debris in any of the fuel deveverly system. If this don't get you there PM me for a number that I can be reached at if you so desire.
I don't think that there is much wrong with it ,just finding out what it is can sometimes be the tricky part.
Richard.

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RE: YS CLUB - 5/17/2010 12:08 AM   
nitro wing


 

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Status: offline 		Very helpful, thank you.
I will go thru everything methodically. Fuel is 1 year old now, cool power 30% heli synthetic.thats the first thing I wanted to swap out

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RE: YS CLUB - 5/17/2010 9:12 AM   
nitro wing


 

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Status: offline 		Here are the adjustments so far

checked all lines = good
removed and inspected regulator = good
removed and installed low end needle = good
ran engine = good with ignitor on, fuel dripping from carb
adjusted LS 2 full turns in = runs good/better
now runs on its own without ignitor.
idle is a bit rough 1890-2100 but reliable and revs up fairly smooth.
Not sure why the LS was so far out...was running in another plane and performing well.
Its running as it should,not sure exactly why, only some minor inspections were performed.
I would call it flyable with a reliable idle at this time.
Thank you for the suport and suggestions. I hope to fly it next week without further complications.

Further steps would be new fuel and a valve adjustment,and new fuel lines.
Thank you Cyberwolf

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