Wot's monokote for?  
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Wot's monokote for? - 7/6/2003 3:01:58 PM   
csisfun


 

Posts: 484
Joined: 5/24/2003
From: SG, SINGAPORE
Status: offline 		Heard of Monokote and Ultrakote, but what are they for?
       Post #: 1

Wot's monokote for? - 7/6/2003 3:19:38 PM   
FHHuber



Posts: 4931
Joined: 1/1/2003
From: gone, , USA
Status: offline 		MonoKote and UltraKote are types of iron-on covering material. They replace the old paint and fabric covering used on models. (though some people still do use the paint with a fabric or special grade of tissue paper)

(in reply to csisfun)
       Post #: 2

Wot's monokote for? - 7/6/2003 7:41:23 PM   
ballgunner



Posts: 2109
Joined: 2/1/2003
From: Payson, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Fred hit it when he said they're types of iron on covering. They are film type plastic with the color in the adhesive on one side. If you are going to use either be sure you have the adhesive side on the wood. I would like to have a couple of bucks for each time I have forgotten to remove the clear backing before trying to iron on. That is the first step after you have determined what size piece to use. There are other types of covering which are basically fabric. Coverall, Solartex and Coverite come to mind. They also have adhesive on one side and can be ironed on. The drawback is that they are heavier than Monokote or most other film coverings. Also, being fabric, they have a weave pattern that should be filled with dope or primer before you try to paint. The fabrics also come in colors if you don't want to paint. I usually use fabric types for larger or scale type applications such as WWI aircraft. You can use the antique style and clear dope it or paint it for that type application. Film type coverings are usually very difficult to paint but it can be done. The best way to add color to film is more film on top of the original cover. The wrapper will suggest the degree of heat you should use to apply the material.

(in reply to csisfun)
       Post #: 3

Wot's monokote for? - 7/6/2003 11:20:40 PM   
LouW



Posts: 804
Joined: 1/1/2003
From: Moreland, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Koverall isn’t an iron on covering. It is a light weight polyester fabric that is heat shrinkable. It is applied to the structure using dope or one of the full scale fabric adhesives such a Fab-Tac (or I have used Balsa Loc and ironed it on but it works better with the adhesives). The finished weight is comparable to the iron on plastic materials but it is a lot tougher and more puncture resistant. I am currently flying a .15 and a .10 powered plane as well as a Saito .80 powered biplane that are all covered with Koverall. It also doesn’t sag in hot or damp weather.

There is also a lighter weight non-woven material called Polyspan. It looks like the old silkspan but is heat shrinkable and much stronger. It must be attached with dope, etc. rather than ironed on. It is waterproof also and unaffected by the weather. It is suitable for smaller models from about .10 size down to .020. It is only available in white but takes dope real well.

(in reply to ballgunner )
       Post #: 4

Wot's monokote for? - 7/7/2003 1:41:04 PM   
Jim Thomerson



Posts: 2825
Joined: 10/9/2002
From: Austin, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Topflite has a video on monocoat. Worth looking at.

Jim

(in reply to LouW)
       Post #: 5

Wot's monokote for? - 7/7/2003 6:24:41 PM   
dr_wogz



Posts: 2006
Joined: 7/17/2002
From: Pointe Claire, QC, CANADA
Status: offline 		The vidow is pretty basic, but those are the step a beginner needs! MAN magazine (model airplane news) offer a 'how to cover' book, two in fact, that also teach teh basics, and a few advance steps. Harry Higley has one as well. The best though, is practice, practice, practice. you'll soon find that one covering is better than another, and easier than another..

Also, the best is become chummy with one of teh local pilots, who'se got teh best looking planes, and bug (ask) him to lend a hand, show you the ropes!

All 'iron on' covering is basically a heat activated glue on a heat shrinkable polyester film.

(in reply to Jim Thomerson)
       Post #: 6

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