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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/23/2008 8:14:31 PM   
simplecj



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From: Cedar City, UT, USA
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Some good bits about what parts to upgrade to aluminum or composites and which to leave plastic...

quote:

ORIGINAL: Jolly Roger Pirate
And then the aluminum bends in a crash and you cant bend it back because it will just crack, and then you have to pay EVEN MORE MONEY to buy new aluminum parts. Stick with the plastic for things like suspension arms people, because in the end, they will cost you less overall.


That's why you don't go ALL aluminum!! You gotta choose what parts to have as your "breakables". In a hard crash, something's gotta give, you'd better plan for it to be something cheap and easy to fix. Personally I'm staying with plastic suspension arms and a plastic chassis. All carriers, stearing blocks, camber blocks and tie-rods are metal. Also, a major one is to replace the tranny box with an aluminum one with aluminum suspension arm mounts which are separate from the tranny box. The stock plastic tranny box is all one piece in the Rustler, break the arm mount and you have to replace the whole box which is both expensive and a lot of work!! By going aluminum on the tranny, arm mounts, the carrier bocks and linkage, you isolate the weaker plastic in the suspension arms themselves. If they break, they're both easy and cheap to replace at about $5-10 per set on ebay. (alot of people will sell their new plastic ones from cars they upgraded to composites or metal)

And, I also recommend upgrading to a large plastic bumper like the one from RPM, this will also dramatically reduce shock from both head-on collisions and cartwheels... DO NOT get the solid metal front bumper like the one from Integy, that's about the stupidest "upgrade" you can make because it's got no flex and therefore completely contradicts what a bumper is supposed to do; absorb the impact! Now I just need to find a good plastic wheelie bar that will do the same thing as the RPM bumper, but for the rear end. Another RPM bumper with some wheels mounted?? That could work!

I also dremeled out a bunch of the centeral part of the chassis to give the whole frame some flex or 'give' when I wreck it and it does like 10 cartwheels or whatever... I know, supposedly a stiff chassis provides better handling, but I'm not racing and I'd rather stay a bit flexible to save myself from replacing a lot of parts.

EDIT: I really wanted to do the wide arm mod, but have decided against it until I can find cheap plastic extended arms. It's a cool mod, but very expensive if you break the arms!

< Message edited by simplecj -- 5/23/2008 8:21:01 PM >

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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/24/2008 3:49:01 AM   
Chris_RC



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Joined: 11/19/2005
From: La Quinta, CA, USA
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my friend just got a rustler xl-5. But for some reason the body looks just like the VXL version. Here is a pic of it.

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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/24/2008 3:44:32 PM   
daywalker121800



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From: huntington, NY, USA
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the picture comes up too small to actually see, but it looks like the stock xl 5 body to me

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DrDaywalker-obsess much???Rustler vxl. custom 2 speed rustler Jato aka JESTER 2.5r, tmaxx 2.5, nitro rustler 2.5, Losi xxxt

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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/24/2008 6:01:30 PM   
Chris_RC



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From: La Quinta, CA, USA
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OK, I'll adjust it.

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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/24/2008 6:03:38 PM   
Chris_RC



Posts: 2628
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From: La Quinta, CA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: daywalker121800

the picture comes up too small to actually see, but it looks like the stock xl 5 body to me


here, but it might look a little blurry.

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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/24/2008 6:08:02 PM   
daywalker121800



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sorry buddy, looks the same....lol But like I said, it looks like the xl 5 to me.

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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/24/2008 6:08:27 PM   
simplecj



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Dude, seriously... learn to crop a pic properly... looks like you took it with a cell phone then somehow put that tiny picture on a full page canvas... I'm quite sure it's not a VXL body. Is the back fin held on by screws or tape??

EDIT: I apologize for being a bit harsh. I'm just giving constructive criticism. You can't post a pic that's so small we have no way of telling what it is, if you zoom in on it to see the details all you get is pixels... and honestly I have no idea how you got the pic in the middle of a bunch of white space, it's like you printed it off then used a crappy scanner with the pic somewhere in the middle and auto-crop turned off. There's not a single camera out there that would render a pic like the one you posted.

My question about the fin should answer your question, if the fin is held on by tape then it's an XL-5 body as should be expected. The bodies do look very similar, but the VXL is a bit lower profile and has screws holding the rear fin on. It's still a Rustler, so of course they look nearly the same...

< Message edited by simplecj -- 5/24/2008 6:54:52 PM >

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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/24/2008 6:12:00 PM   
daywalker121800



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From: huntington, NY, USA
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come on man, you dont need to be mean to him....not everyone is a computer pro.

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DrDaywalker-obsess much???Rustler vxl. custom 2 speed rustler Jato aka JESTER 2.5r, tmaxx 2.5, nitro rustler 2.5, Losi xxxt

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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/25/2008 3:33:29 AM   
Chris_RC



Posts: 2628
Joined: 11/19/2005
From: La Quinta, CA, USA
Status: online

quote:

ORIGINAL: simplecj

Dude, seriously... learn to crop a pic properly... looks like you took it with a cell phone then somehow put that tiny picture on a full page canvas... I'm quite sure it's not a VXL body. Is the back fin held on by screws or tape??

EDIT: I apologize for being a bit harsh. I'm just giving constructive criticism. You can't post a pic that's so small we have no way of telling what it is, if you zoom in on it to see the details all you get is pixels... and honestly I have no idea how you got the pic in the middle of a bunch of white space, it's like you printed it off then used a crappy scanner with the pic somewhere in the middle and auto-crop turned off. There's not a single camera out there that would render a pic like the one you posted.

My question about the fin should answer your question, if the fin is held on by tape then it's an XL-5 body as should be expected. The bodies do look very similar, but the VXL is a bit lower profile and has screws holding the rear fin on. It's still a Rustler, so of course they look nearly the same...


My friend sent me that picture the 1st day he got it. It had a picture of him in there and I he looked really stupid in hte pic so I didn't want to show it. So I used Paint and got the picture, then erased the side with him and wa la. But it was only a 3MP camera so the picture quality was really bad, thats why I made it a little smaller to minimize the pixelated looks. But as you can see there still is some. Where the wing is there is 3 blue screws that fit with my allen wrenches. It isn't held together w/ tape. But the normal XL-5 body is squarish while this one is kinda round like the VXL. I looked in the manual and the pic with the rsutler coming out of a turn kicking up dirt looks like the same body.

I am actually pretty good with compters.

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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/26/2008 12:32:36 AM   
HeliSmith



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From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
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If you weren't too concerned about lipos costs which motor would you go with? Money is an issue but I have a solution for lipos.

Traxxas Velineon motor
CC Sidewinder
CC Mamba Max (Are there 4 different stags of motor? Which one is best?)

I want tons of power and I hear the Sidewinder delivers but without too much top end and gets a little warm. The Mamba Max I guess stage 4 is 289.00 which is nuts so I guess I would be comparing the stage 3? Then the Traxxas Velineon motor is recommended by Hobby People guys.

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RE: Official Rustler Thread - 5/26/2008 12:56:24 AM   
simplecj



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From: Cedar City, UT, USA
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Chris_RC: If you have screws holding the wing on, then I guess either you got the VXL body or Traxxas has started selling the XL-5 with the same body... either way that's crazy!

HeliSmith: Personally I'm ditching the Velenion ESC for the Sidwinder. My Velenion has had serious cogging issues at slow speeds and it's just too annoying for me. I don't need insane speeds which end up costing me more $$$ for broken parts in high speed wrecks. The Sidewinder provides adequate power for 1/10 scale and gives you the same programming features that the Mamba Max gives you for about $70 less and it can accept Lipos with the 4600 or Velenion Motor. I've heard that the Mamba Max has enough power for even a 1/8th scale, so for the Rustler I think it's a bit overkill. Of course that's just my opinion, some people out there like the insane speeds of 70+, I'm fine with a max around 40 for realistic control of my truck. Unless you're just drag racing or running on a long straight track, you'll never really get going over 40+ without completely loosing control and breaking parts.

As for batteries, I'm running 2s A123 LiFe cells at 6.6v nominal. These cells are high current and low voltage drop, they run comparable to Lipos but I never have to worry about my car bursting into flames. A123's are completely stable and good for over 1000 cycles AND can be charged at up to 10 Amps per cell in parallel for a 10 min quick charge! For about $120 I purchased a 36v DeWalt pack (10 cells), shrink wrap and connectors and built myself two packs, one at 2p 4600 mAHr (20 minute runs), the other 3p 6900 mAHr (30 minute runs).

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