RE: new spad

RE: new spad
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RE: new spad - 7/23/2004 11:34:01 PM

acam37

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From: lufkin, TX, USA
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Omaha, that looks good. On the top cap did you make it wide enough so when you do the fuselage they will be the same width? I couldn't tell from the pics. The skewers come it two diffrent sizes. I have used both. I got the big ones from the supermarket. They fit real tight and you have to jam them in. The best way I found to put them in is use a nut driver with a small size socket. Then you can drive them in the rest of the way.

(in reply to Omaha_RC_Flyer)

RE: new spad - 7/24/2004 2:33:48 AM

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acam37,
I did make the top wider than the pipe, so the seams would line up. Since I'm not using
the same size engine as you. I figured making the fuse pipe in front a little longer would give
me close to the same wing location as you, not to mention some added support. On the aft part
of the fuse did you put a top on that and glue the turtledeck to it, or did you leave this somewhat hollow?

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RE: new spad - 7/24/2004 3:21:02 AM

acam37

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Omaha, Go back to post #10 and I have a pic of the fuse. You can see that I did glue a piece to the top to strengthen it up. Cut it to fit inside the fuse not on top.

(in reply to Omaha_RC_Flyer)

RE: new spad - 7/24/2004 4:41:01 AM

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acam37,
When I first looked at it, I couldn't tell if it was on top or bottom. Going back
and looking I see it was on top. Thanks for pointing that out.

Have another question for you on the welder. I bought some from Lowes the other
day by Devcon called weldit. Is that what you use or is it more like a plastic epoxy
type substance? I did a few test pieces with it and it didn't work so well (the weldit).
If that is what you use tell me what I'm doing wrong?

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RE: new spad - 7/24/2004 4:23:32 PM

acam37

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The stuff I use is welder. You use it like contact cement. Spread a THIN line on each side and let it set about 5-10 minuets. I then use masking tape or clamps to hold the pieces together. It will set up in about an hour but I set the piece aside and let it dry overnight. For small pieces and the tail area I just glue and stick and then wait until it dries.After the pieces have dried you can use laquer thinner to clean off the excess from the coro. It makes the build a little longer but you will be happy with the finished result.

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RE: new spad - 7/24/2004 6:22:17 PM

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acam37,
I bought two tubes at wal-mart about 15 mins ago.

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RE: new spad - 7/25/2004 2:10:41 AM

acam37

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Sad news, I was out flying today and went into about a 45 degree dive and at the bottom, NOTHING. It went in full throttle. I don't know what happened,I was full back on the stick and no response. Most definitly make the elevator about 1/2" bigger. I'm not saying that was the cause but a post crash range check and battery output check showed every thing was fine. I've had it in a straight down full throttle dive and pulled out with no problem. Maybe it was radio interferrence. As you can see in the pics it actually came out pretty well considering the impact. I was especially pleased that for the most part the plug in wings recieved very little damage. The only thing broke was one lattice spar and the inner wing cap. If I can figure out how to replace the lattice the wing can be salvaged. So in a way this is a blessing. I get to build another plane and since I have a camera now I will take step by step photos of the build. I was so happy with the way this plane flew I don't plan on any design changes except I will try to put the elevator push rod on top of the elevator so it will be pulling in a climb instead of pushing.

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RE: new spad - 7/25/2004 2:38:39 AM

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there's a dimension missing on the hor stab/elevator drawing, but, guesstimating, i'd say you got about 80" of elevator area. If your running a standard servo, its not surprising that it wouldn't pull out. That much elevator needs a high torque servo. In general, about 1 oz of servo torque per square inch of control area. I didn't check the details, but a standard servo on 4.8v won't cut it. Increasing the size of the elevator won't help the problem, it'll make it worse. Make the elevator smaller, so long as its not less than 1/3 of the total hor. stab area, it'll work fine for a sport plane, don't change the actaul area of the hor. stab, just the elevator itself, go to a 6v pack, and keep it about 60" or less, and you won't have that problem again.

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RE: new spad - 7/25/2004 4:23:16 AM

acam37

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Chris thanks for the info. I don't know much about servo sizes compared to control surface but what you say does make sense. I'll do some research on the subject and make the apropriate changes. I'm still learning about designing and building spads and sometimes it takes a major design flaw to learn a lesson. From all accounts maybe the servo just could'nt move the elevator in a fast dive.

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RE: new spad - 7/26/2004 4:16:28 AM

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acam37,
Sorry for the loss of your bird. Now you and Throttle can build one at the same time.
Some of the guys in my club can't believe how well it's turning out. I may just build two
and have one for a back up in case I have a mishap. Quicker knows about me and my mishaps.

I may consider putting a High torque servo on my elevator or have dual elevator servos.
Mounting the control horn/servo on the top may help. I'm going to put a pull pull on the rudder.
What do you think?

Keep us posted on the new build and let us know of any changes.

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RE: new spad - 7/26/2004 5:10:27 AM

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quote:

Quicker knows about me and my mishaps.

Yeah. I just gave Omaha one of my balsa profiles....wonder how long it will last

(in reply to Omaha_RC_Flyer)

RE: new spad - 7/26/2004 5:15:23 AM

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Quicker,
Hopefully longer than my last plane. If I quit trying to knife edge so much it might be ok.

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RE: new spad - 7/26/2004 10:09:58 PM

acam37

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Omaha, last night I started on #4 and #5. I am building it exactly like the plans. I am also taking a lot of pics so I can get some plans together. I re-measured the somethin extra tail and it is almost exactly the same size as mine. So I am thinking I may have a bad receiver. I have been flying that plane real hard and the dive it was in was not extreme enough for zero elevator response. I believe I will invest in a new flight pack for the next one and put the old one in a deb and fly it to see if It fails. If you have a high torque servo it wouldn't hurt and I believe I will go with a 6 volt system next time. I should have it finished by the end of the week.

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RE: new spad - 7/27/2004 12:20:30 AM

Cajun

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From: Nacogdoches, Tx
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Going with a 5 cell pack in that size plane is a litttle overkill, and has some disadvantages. Mainly the five cell pack, when at full charge, many times causes the servos to jitter. Also, you must have a higher output charger. Switching to a heavier servo or two servos on the elevator would be a better choice.

I have built and flown scads of this size plane and have never overloaded a servo. It is possible the servo was weak and faulty. It was also possible the servo to control horn geometry was wrong. There could also have been an intermittant receiver problem. Range checks on the receiver after the crash showed absolutely no problems, but it's still possible.

I hate it when an airplane crashes and no definable cause can be found. You never quite trust that equipment again.

Cajun

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RE: new spad - 7/27/2004 5:10:11 PM

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acam37,
When you say "#4 and #5" does that mean you have built three SSExtra's already?
In post #68 you mentioned

quote:

Another thing I forgot to mention is to use skewers generously especially on the tail feathers. On the bottom of the fuselage, every other flute for extra strength and to keep the coro from crushing when you tighten down the landing gear bolts.

Does that mean from the canopy attachment forward, or do you also mean on the bottom tail piece of the fuse under the turtledeck?

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RE: new spad - 7/28/2004 12:29:09 AM

acam37

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Omaha, yes on the planes. The first two were test planes to work out the CG and radio placement. They also had 4 mil wings. One had a PVC inner structure but it weighed too much. The third one was the one in the pics. I'm happy with the final plane I built so when I post a full set of plans it will be identical to that one. I'm already half finished with my replacement plane. As for the skewers I place them in every other flute on the bottom of the fuse, mainly support for the landing gear and to keep the coro from crushing when you tighten the bolts. use the entire length of the skewer.

(in reply to Omaha_RC_Flyer)