Acetone

Acetone (Full Version)

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Graham-RCU -> Acetone (9/3/2002 9:23:29 PM)
[QUOTE]Originally posted by downunder Now this is where using metrics makes things so much easier :) Say you want to mix 1 litre (about 2 pints) of fuel with 12% nitro, 18% oil and 3% acetone. Now 1 litre is 1000cc so go from there. 120cc nitro 180cc oil 30cc acetone Top up with methanol to make 1 litre Shake....... If you want to make 4 litres (slightly over a US gallon) then just multiply the figures by 4. [/QUOTE] First I had heard of Acetone in the mix, is this an error or am I missing something????

Dave Harmon -> Acetone in fuel (9/3/2002 9:39:51 PM)
Yes, you are 'missing something' as so many like to say these days. Here is a quote from a previous post... "Acetone is a handy additive at about 3-5% because it increases the combustion flame front speed, reduces the tendency to pre-ignite with lean mixtures (helps stop throwing props on 4 strokes) and reduces the ability of methanol to absorb water from the air." I don't use it because my engines (YS 140-L) don't have the problems that are mentioned. If I did have those problems, I would fix those problems instead of slapping an acetone bandaid on them. You only need 3 ingredients....oil, nitro, alky. Your engine size and make and application will determine what the mix will be. By the way, in the upper right hand corner of this screen you can search for the word 'acetone' and it will find every post re this subject. Dave

Dave Harmon -> Fuel Price (9/3/2002 11:33:48 PM)
Capgains....Dan, using your percentage numbers and the price I am paying for oil, nitro & alky, I come up with $9.50 gal for mixed fuel. I figured this up using Klotz KL-200 straight synth oil at $19.20 gal, nitro at $27 gal, alky at $3 gal. The Klotz KL-100 synth/castor oil is the same price. Dave

Graham-RCU -> Home-brewing fuel (9/4/2002 12:34:58 AM)
Thanks Dave... need to be straightened out on that one..

Capgains -> Home-brewing fuel (9/4/2002 3:19:00 AM)
Thanks Dave, You gave me a mark to look for now. Like JS3 I am having trouble finding a supplier for Nitro and Methanol in my area ( I've just never gone looking for it). We just don't have many speed shops. However, I do have a neighbor that races dragsters, and the manager of the local Chevy dealer is a funny car driver. They must be getting it from somewhere. I found a web page [url]www.cometkartsales.com/[/url] that has kl-200 for $5.95 qt. I like the idea of knowing what is in my fuel, and if I can save a few bucks as well.....great. This whole thread brings up something that I think a lot of us take for granted. Fuel quality is not a constant when it comes to running our engines. How many times have we chased low needle and high needle settings because we thought they were messed up when really the fuel we were using was junk? Most of the time we don't even think about it. Dave, do you have an optimal batch size? I really don't want to have a drum of methonal sitting around getting stale because I didn't need to make anymore fuel or ran out of another ingredient. Do you buy in batches to make a certain amount? Dan

Dave Harmon -> Fuel Price (9/4/2002 5:28:14 AM)
Dan....great! You have it 3/4 made already....those racers will know exactly where to get it. This is what I recommend...VP Fuels is the only mfg of nitro and it is available in a sealed 5 gallon can. I pay $27 gal in 5 gal quantity. If your seller does not handle nitro in that small of a container, you can pick up empty fuel bottles at the field and use those, or you can buy a 5 gallon 'race bottle' from the seller and put it in there. Race bottles are about $10 and very worth it as the top is sealed with an 'O' ring. Definately buy a race bottle for the alky...that 'O' ring will keep out all the moisture...buy the alky in 5 gal quantitys too. Please enquire the seller if he will order cases of KL-200 too as you are getting ripped off at $5.95 qt. Cases consist of 10 qts @ $48 = $4.80 qt. I use a lot of nitro because I use 30% nitro and 24% oil (HeilGlo) in my pattern and helicopter engines. 18% if I use KL-200. I use the HeliGlow oil all the time now as the idle is somewhat improved due to the thinner oil not loading up the plug as much as the KL-200 even though the % is 5% more...less oil drag too because it's so thin = more rpm. Also, if you are concerned about how much oil gets on the plane from the exaust, the HeliGlow has a LOT less mess. Remember that the main way you can save money, if that is a consideration, is to buy the ingrediants in quantity to get the price down. The quality of the ingrediants comes with the product no matter how much you buy or how much you pay. Alky will last a very long time if properly stored....in a race bottle. During a slack period for me, I had a couple of gallons in a 5 gal race bottle in my garage for almost 3 years. When I used it there was no problem. I will say though, when you start mixing fuel, get a large plastic funnel with a screen in the outlet that will fit into a used fuel bottle you scrounged from the trash at the field, put a coffee filter in the funnel and pour the nitro & alky through it. You will be surprised at the dirt that gets into that stuff from the mfg. When you mix, use a graduated, glass measuring cup...pour the oil in the fuel bottle FIRST with out the funnel & strainer, then the nitro & alky through the funnel & coffee filter using the glass measuring cup. Then fill the remainder of the fuel bottle with alky 1/2 way up the handle....no need to measure the alky. I mix only 1 gal at a time...cuz I might change my mind...haha...and that's one of the advantages. Lemme know how you make out... Dave [email]K6XYZ@attbi.com[/email]

fiery -> Homebrew fuel (9/9/2002 2:59:49 AM)
Hi Dan To answer your earlier query 1/ pre mix fuel in Australia is dearer than what you pay in the US 2/ Methanol appears to be cheaper here 3/ Nitro is much more expensive (double) 4/ syth oil is a little more expensive. Castor about the same. Also, we don't seem to get the get great range of pre-mix fuels that seem to be readily available in the 'States. Cool Power and Klotz KL200 techniplate are the readily available syth oils, sold in gallon (or 5 litre) jugs. Many more Australian flyers make up their own fuel. Where I am it's the "norm" for serious flyers. Only beginners seem to buy pre-mix. Costs saving has a lot to do with it. Also, you get the blend you want - not what is offered by a fuel manufacturer. Regards fiery

Capgains -> Ahhh very well then!!! (9/9/2002 7:30:21 AM)
I was just curious about the cost situation, but now I am really interested in the quality control of it all, and the over all simplicity. I am also beggining to see how premix may have been the source of some of my problems of critical tuning issues. Thanks for your response from down under. Dan

fiery -> Home Brew fuel (9/9/2002 11:02:22 AM)
No worries Dan! (Oz talk for "your'e very welcome!") ;) fiery

hilleyja -> Home-brewing fuel (9/10/2002 9:01:18 PM)
I also heard that an oz of Armorall in your fuel mix keeps it from frothing in the airplane's fuel tank.

Fuelman -> Home-brewing fuel (9/11/2002 3:11:42 AM)
An ounce of Armour All? Thats a very large amount. The trick is, if one chooses to use Armour All as an anti-foaming agent, is to add only a drop at a time untill the foaming stops. I do not recommend the use of Armour All as an anti-foamer, I simply know it is in wide spread use out there. A much better solution is to properly pad the tank and balance the prop to eliminate as much vibration as possible. Fuelman

Capgains -> Home-brewing fuel (9/11/2002 3:30:21 AM)
I don't know why you'd want to use Armoral in the fuel either. Do you suppose it keeps the inside of the fuel tubes moist and protected from harmful UV rays? I did see some of these outfits that sell nitro and methanol also sell an additive that makes the exhaust smell pretty, like fruit or perfume. Wouldn't that be a trip to come home from the field smelling like Channel 5? Bet my wife would be wondering what the heck goes on out there (or her lawyer). Dan :D

Steve Guinn -> Home-brewing fuel (9/11/2002 7:06:00 AM)
Source for nitro. https://www.worldwideracingfuels.com/default.htm

downunder-RCU -> Home-brewing fuel (9/11/2002 7:13:26 AM)
ArmorAll contains silicon which is the active ingredient in cutting out foaming. It reduces the surface tension of the fuel so bubbles can't form and one drop in a gallon of fuel is all that's needed. For those who doubt how well it works, shake a part filled gallon jug until you've got lots of foam on top then quickly give one light spray into the fuel. The foam disappears instantly. Give the jug another good shake and you still won't see any foam. Contrary to some rumours it has absolutely no affect on plug life either.

rslstft -> Armor All (9/12/2002 7:05:02 AM)
Whether it's right or wrong, I have been adding about 2 drops of Armor All per gallon of mixed fuel that I make. I mix 15% for my 2-strokes and 25% for my 4-strokes and never have had a problem with foaming or plugs life being short. In fact, some of my engines haven't changed plugs in almost a year and haven't touched the needle valve. Maybe I'm just lucky, but all of the engines run very well, no different in fact since I quite buying fuel and started mixing my own.

RadioJets -> Home-brewing fuel (9/12/2002 5:57:28 PM)
rslstft, How do u do your fuel?

Steve Guinn -> Home-brewing fuel (9/12/2002 9:58:14 PM)
:greedy: Forget the link on post #38. I didn't realize the haz. mat. shipping would cost more than the materials. $60.00 for shipping and I'm only 200 miles away. Gotta find it locally.

Roadrunner1390 -> Home-brewing fuel (9/14/2002 7:37:56 PM)
Does the armorall make the inside of your engine shiney like the dash board on my car ???

JL1 -> Home-brewing fuel (9/18/2002 11:23:41 PM)
I talked briefly to a Klotz rep. at the Toledo expo. He stated that anti-foaming additives are in the oil. I have been mixing my own fuel for several years (using klotz oil) and have never had a foaming problem. I use only Klotz oil, Methanol, and (when needed) Nitro.

Dave Harmon -> Fuel Foaming (9/18/2002 11:52:40 PM)
Layton....take a bottle of your mixed fuel and shake it violently....it will foam up. The armorall DOES work and it took 10 drops to completly stop all foaming, however as you said, the fuel does not foam in use so it's a moot point. I just tried it once to see if it would work. I have not needed it or used it since. Regards Dave

rsieminski -> Home-brewing fuel (9/28/2002 6:18:59 AM)
You guys that use no or low ( <2.5% ), how do you combat the overly sensitive needle? I also find that towards the end of the tank, it leans out badly.

downunder-RCU -> Home-brewing fuel (9/28/2002 7:53:30 AM)
Well I don't use nitro in anything and all I can say is what overly sensitive needle?

rsieminski -> Home-brewing fuel (9/28/2002 8:02:26 AM)
Well, as compaired to 30% Nitro, the needle is sensitive. Maybe not "overly sensitive". Do you find that it leans out towards the end of the tank, more so than with Nitro?

Ed Smith -> Home-brewing fuel (9/28/2002 5:05:56 PM)
Leaning out only at the end of the tank has nothing to do with lack of Nitro. It is more likely to be a tank position/set up problem. This could also be the cause of the touchy needle in the first place. Ed S

rsieminski -> Home-brewing fuel (9/28/2002 5:26:40 PM)
It didn't do this with the 10% I used for the flight, just before I used the 2.5% home brew. 2.5% Nitro 18% Castor 79.5% Meth

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