RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51  
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RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 9/24/2004 11:55:08 PM   
Mustang51


 

Posts: 877
Joined: 1/20/2002
From: Norristown, PA, USA
Status: offline 		INSTRUMENT PANEL!
Dash bords are in cars.

(in reply to schroedm)
       Post #: 76

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 9/25/2004 12:00:10 AM   
schroedm



Posts: 2416
Joined: 7/9/2002
From: SevenoaksKent, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		OK - fair cop.

You're just getting me back coz you don't know metric meaursements!!

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       Post #: 77

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 9/25/2004 12:04:29 AM   
Mustang51


 

Posts: 877
Joined: 1/20/2002
From: Norristown, PA, USA
Status: offline 		lol

Mustang51

(in reply to schroedm)
       Post #: 78

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 9/30/2004 9:32:15 PM   
gary9648


 

Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002
From: Troy, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Hello all, Here are some photos of what I have been doing on the Mustang since last post. The stabs and wings have been fitted to the fuse. I will permanently mount the stabs to the fuse after I have installed the servos and their associated hatches. The wing is held on with four screws. There was no wood installed in the fuse at the wing hold down positions. I installed 1/8" ply-wood to the wing saddle where the rear bolts would go through and in front of the leading edge bulkhead. I then drilled my mounting holes and removed the wing. I then installed 1&1/2" X 1/4" ply blocks for the wing bolts to screw into. The 1/8" ply was installed to spread the load out. I then re-drilled the blocks and taped with 1/4-20 tap. the wings did not fit flush together at the rear due to the width of the fuse and I believe the wing tubes were installed wrong. Instead of breaking the tubes loose I will fill the gap with filler and sand flush. I used nylon bolts for the front of the wing as shown. I have talked with Dave and he is now making the canopy frame for me. I think he will be a good source for these parts. also you can see the fit between the flap to fuse is off as advised in the instructions. I plan to build them up with wood and then glass the area.

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< Message edited by gary9648 -- 9/30/2004 9:40:54 PM >

(in reply to Mustang51)
       Post #: 79

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 9/30/2004 9:36:52 PM   
gary9648


 

Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002
From: Troy, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Here are a couple of photos of the stab fit and one with the anti-torque dowel showing. I will rough up the mating surfaces and also the alum. spar tube then epoxy them all together when finished installing the servos and wiring.

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(in reply to gary9648)
       Post #: 80

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 9/30/2004 9:48:36 PM   
schroedm



Posts: 2416
Joined: 7/9/2002
From: SevenoaksKent, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Gary,

You're racing ahead!! You'll be flying her by next weekend at this rate!!

Keep up the good work and keep up the posts!!

Rgds,
Mark

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       Post #: 81

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 10/1/2004 9:38:23 PM   
gary9648


 

Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002
From: Troy, OH, USA
Status: offline 		today I filled the gap between the wing halves with light weight filler and sanded. I used a liquid mold release on one side and scuffed the other and cleaned with alcohol for good adhesion. I then taped off the wing on both sides and forced filler down between the gap. I let set for approx. 15 minutes and the used a exacto knife to carve the filler down to the skin while the filler was still soft. After the filler hardened I finished sanding with 320 and parted the wing halves. I then mounted the top cowl and cut out exhaust exit ports on both sides using a hot knife supplied by Hobbico. I have included a photo of it. This allows the cutting of panels with a very thin hot knife that cuts through the glass like butter. I used this tool to cut out all of the hatches also, so they will fit back in the hole with little gap. I then cleaned the opening with one of my secret tools LOL. I needed a very stiff and thin sanding bar, so I used some sticky backed sand paper to sick it to an old file tip. This allows me to get into tight places and make accurate sanding with out the block bending. Gives great straight sanded edges. If I need the file, I just peel the paper off or just use the other side of the file.
will start next on cockpit while I await delivery of other parts.

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(in reply to schroedm)
       Post #: 82

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 10/2/2004 4:37:02 PM   
gary9648


 

Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002
From: Troy, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Well I just opened the big box from Dynamic Balsa to look at the cockpit kit for the Mustang. Holy Sh..! Take a look at all the goodies! It even comes with excellent instructions and two, count them.... two floppy disks with about 30 some color photos. Now thats a great American company. Here is a photo of what you get. I mean even the rear fuel tank, filler tubes etc., and batteries are there along with the battery tie down straps. All the little knobs and hard to make doodads are already formed from resin. this is one of the best interior kits I've seen! They even give you the stained wood floor. You can see it in the photo.

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< Message edited by gary9648 -- 10/2/2004 4:38:25 PM >

(in reply to gary9648)
       Post #: 83

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 10/7/2004 5:33:08 PM   
gary9648


 

Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002
From: Troy, OH, USA
Status: offline 		The instrument panel and center console is finished minus weathering. this took approx. eight hours to complete and paint. This included opening every gauge hole, then painting. Then gluing in the clear plastic panel behind the gauges. I placed strips of 1/16" balsa around the back of panel level with the gauge indention for glue purchase of the clear plastic. I used medium CA for all. I then lined up gauge decal with panel openings and marked location. I then glued in place using these reference marks. I then glued a 1/16" balsa cover over the decal sheet as a backing. I installed wood behind all the switch and lever locations and added knobs and switches. I then finished painting all the knobs and switches.

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(in reply to gary9648)
       Post #: 84

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 10/7/2004 6:33:46 PM   
schroedm



Posts: 2416
Joined: 7/9/2002
From: SevenoaksKent, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Gary,

Looking good - they just come alive with a little weathering.

Rgds,
Mark

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       Post #: 85

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 10/21/2004 8:02:28 PM   
schroedm



Posts: 2416
Joined: 7/9/2002
From: SevenoaksKent, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Got my WABO retracts from Germany delivered today!

Very nice bits of kit. Look very strong.....

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       Post #: 86

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 10/21/2004 8:12:53 PM   
gary9648


 

Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002
From: Troy, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Do they have the strut door hardware with them and as always what are the price of the gear. This is the gear the Fiberclassics kit was designed around correct. How can I contact them?
thanks
Gary

(in reply to schroedm)
       Post #: 87

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 10/21/2004 9:40:34 PM   
schroedm



Posts: 2416
Joined: 7/9/2002
From: SevenoaksKent, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Gary,

What you see there cost me 480EUR incl shipping. That is £330 or $580. (There is an air tank, valve and airline included too)

Yes, this is the gear the kit originally designed for the kit.

You should contact Ellen at EllenBodie@t-online.de

I foolishly seem to have forgotten to order the door hardware!! I will order that tomorrow - it's only 48EUR

Rgds,
Mark

< Message edited by schroedm-RCU -- 10/21/2004 9:43:14 PM >

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