Posts: 190
Joined: 10/3/2003 From: Jerusalem, ISRAEL Status: offline
Hi Gary Been following your build, great job. I'm seriously considering ordering one and have been working on the costing, so I was wondering about how to get the best possible price, should I order directly from Comp arf or thru a local rep, do they discount German vat on overseas orders. Also someone mentioned that Comp arf adds cost of shipping from Thailand to Germany on top of kit cost and shipping to final destination but that doesn't sound right. Have pretty much decided to go with the 3w 70 but still wondering about the servos . I'll appreciate any advice you can give.
Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
OH, USA Status: offline
I would check with one of the reps in your area first. They are definatly different to deal with. They want you to send them a request for quote, then they send you a price plus shipping. Go figure. As far as servos go, use the same type servos you would use in a 100" aerobatic plane. You need very strong servos 130oz. +@ for flaps and rudder, 90 oz. for ailerons @ and elevator halves. 2000 ma. battery pack , 5 cell. You can use more than one pack if you want with two switches. I use a good double ball bearing servo on the throttle and choke if nessesary. I use small servos for the aux. controls to save weight. The 3W 75 rear induction would be better than a 70 I would think. Depends on how much reserve you want at cruise. Gary
Posts: 112
Joined: 5/6/2003 From: Stockholm, SWEDEN Status: offline
Hi Gary,Mark
It's been a while. I should have used Sierra or Hawe not Robart, I regret that.As I mentioned earlier in this thread the Robart retracts collapsed. As I did not want to rebuilt it I had my good friend Kent made some new legs. Darrell at Sierra sent me new alubackplates(thanks). Here is some pics;
Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
OH, USA Status: offline
Started work on the sliding canopy yesterday and then some today along with the horizontal stabs and elevators. I first cut the fiberglass frame out using my trusty Hot knife. I then proceeded to trim the clear canopy. I then scuffed up the gluing surfaces and applied RC560 glue and clamped it together. Man did it take a lot of clamps. I used 1/8X1" balsa strips on both sides to help clamp it together. I then removed the glass from the front wind shield and cut and started installing the clear plastic panels in it also. More clamps! While all this is drying, I started on the Stabs and elevators. I found out the stab tube did not fit in either of the stabs or through the molded holes in the fuse. Afer an hour or more of sanding I finally had them working. then opened the elevator leading edge for the hinges. I first started with a small drill and worked up to the 3/16" needed for the Robart hinges. After drilling the holes I open the slots with my trusty 1/4" round file. I then fit it to the stab and drilled the hinge holes in the stab's trailing edge. I found it interesting that only one elevator would fit only one stab. They are all supposed to be identical. I then preceeded to install the anti rotation pins in the front root of the stabs. this kit is set up so you can remove the stab for transport. I plan on gluing it on permentaly when finished with installing the elevator servos in each stab. I used the anti rotation pins for a locator while the stabs glues onto the fuse. I have a friend who is attempting to cut the slots in my brass square rail for the sliding canopy. Untill this is completed I can not proceed. Good Day Gary Webb
Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
OH, USA Status: offline
size=3][/size]Been "workin" on the elevator servo install in both stabs. After cutting out the servo hatches in the bottom of each stab, I found to my dismay that I found more QC problems. There was supposed to be a piece of foam in the leading edge to give it shape. Only one had it. The front foam spars were it two different locations. I had to cut them for the servo install. I had planned on using the JR side mounts for this application, like I did for the ailerons. I was going to mount it to a 1/16" piece of ply. I found that the stab was not thick enough to accomadate this set up. In the instructions (joke) they recommend gluing the servo directly to the ply and glue it in permenantly . I have to tell you I had to think about this very hard. I then decided to use some 1/4X1/2" hardwood blocks glued to the ply floor. I sandwhiched a piece of 1/32" ply between the side of the servo and the ply while drilling the holes for the servo screws. This will give me a gap between the plate and servo. After gluing the blocks with the servo mounted to them to the ply plate. I turned the unit over and drilled two small holes for each block so I could screw From the bottom of the plate up into the blocks. I counter sunk the holes and installed some #01 brass flat head screws. I felt that I did not trust just the glue to hold the servo blocks to the ply. If one of these comes loose..... I would hate to think what would happen.... DUH maybe CRASH? I then used my trusty Goop to glue the plate with the servo installed to the top wing skin. OH yeah, I roughed up the surface with 60 grit and cleaned with alcohol before gluing. I also exersized the servos very hard to make sure they were functioning properly. Yes I also remembered to use thread locker on the control horn screws. Speaking of that. A friend of mine had installed some new Hitec servos with that new type of cast gears in them. He was so used to using thread locker on the metal gear type that he used it on them also. This mistake cost him a 35% aircraft. DO NOT USE thread locker on composite gears. The thread locker had a reaction with the materal and caused the control horns to fall off. No more control... OUCH! Ok back to the Mustang's stabs. I did not like all the movement I was getting with just the servo mounted to the top stab skin. I then proceeded to make four posts, at each corner out of 1/4X3/8" balsa sticks. This tied the two skins together. No more movement. I then installed the 1/32" ply around the inside of the hatch opening for the hatch ledge. Next I added the hard points for the hatch screws and mounted hatch. Before mounting hatch, I drew lines paralled with the servo arm for the opening in the hatch cover. I then installed the hatch cover and transfered the line to it and then cut slot in hatch. I then mounted the elevator with the Robart hinges turned 90 degrees so that the elevator would not move up or down. I placed a control rod on the servo arm and located the elevator control horn location. I then opened a slot in the leading edge for the horn. Then decided the lenght of the horn, and using the root of the elevator as a guide cut the bottom off of the horn. I then scuffed up the sides and also drilled five small holes through the bottom part of the horn for better glue purchase. I then mixed up some thirty min, along with some milled fibers and proceeded to glue the control horns into the elevator halves. I then placed the elevators back on the stabs to make sure the horns were lined up with the servo arms before the glue set up. Next I will make the control rods when the glue sets up. Good day Gary
Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
OH, USA Status: offline
Here is another photo to finish up the post. Now I know your all saying, hey Dude, your going to get a lot of up but the horn won't let you have any down. I plan on cutting a slot in the trailing edge just in front of the horn to relieve this problem. This is an 1/4" extention of the wing skin to form the hinge gap seal. I know you feel better now LOL Gary
< Message edited by gary9648 -- 2/16/2005 10:05:51 PM >
Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
OH, USA Status: offline
After the control horn glue set, I proceeded to notch the trailing edge of the stab so the elevator could rotate down. The instructions say only 1/2" Down so I only had to cut the notch in 3/16" of an inch. I did not even get into the trailing edge spar. I then made a template for the rear wing hold down plates and using 30 min. epoxy glued in the 1/8" plates. I then made a template for the front wing bolts. this is glued into the front of the wing root. ther is no mention of doing this in the instructions, (sic). The plate could not be installed in one piece due to the shape of the inside of the fuse. After gluing in the two halves, I used a piece of 8 oz. glass cloth to tie them together. After I drill the mounting holes, both front and rear, I will install 1/4" ply blocks and drill and tap them for the 1/4-20 bolts. I have left the glue dry for the combination of the canopy frame and canopy for over four days and the glue has not dried in the center yet. The next one will be done with 30 min epoxy! While waiting for the glue to dry on the wing mounting plates, I finished trimming the canopy . I then taped the windshield in place and set the canopy where it is supposed to go. I was amazed how well they fit together. The air cylinder has a 5&1/4" stroke. This is how it will look when opened. I think C.I. will be able to climb in and out with ease. Next I will mount the wing halves and fill the gap between the wing root at the back. (see first wing install) I found out that it is very difficult to end mill the slot in the square brass tube, I'm going to use for the canopy rail. I"m going to atemt cutting the slot with a jig and my trusty Dremel tool with a Robart cut off wheel. Wish me luck. Good Day! Gary
Posts: 1175
Joined: 10/22/2002 From: Troy,
OH, USA Status: offline
Whew! Just finished the canopy rails! Hot Da..! You could say I did it using a little unorthodox method. I borrowed a friends Dremel router attachment, and put a Robart cut off wheel in it. I then glued the rail to the top of my work bench even with the edge. I knew that this method would generate some heat and would probably loosen the glue. I used a few drops of thick CA along the length of the brass rail. I measured the diameter of the pin on the ball link=2 mm. The cut off wheel was just a hair over one mm. I would need to make two passes. I then placed the face of the router against the table edge and adjusted the depth of the wheel. I then carefully lowered the wheel into the rail and cut the first pass. Note, I'm making both rails a the same time. I cut the rail in half after the slot is cut. I left the rail solid at both ends so it would not spread open with time and use. I then readjusted the depth and made the second pass. i then drilled a 5/32" hole at one end of each rail for the ball to pass through and tested the fit. The ball link will slide freely from one end to the other. Like I said Whew!. I then used my trusty Xacto knife to remove the rail from the table and sanded off the glue residue. Then I cut the rails in half. Tomorrow I will try and get the rails mounted and the slider attached to the canopy frame. then i will work on installing the rear rail and air cylinder. It's starting to look like a Mustang Now! Gary
Posts: 2415
Joined: 7/9/2002 From: SevenoaksKent, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Dude, do you ever leave that workshop
Great work - keep the posts coming as despite the lack of feedback I think we're all hooked on watching your progress! Do you have any pics of your 1st one all together?
Rgds, Mark
PS Hope to get back on mine soon - still waiting for my reduction drive unit to turn up
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 
RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51 - 
Hi Gary,Mark 
LOL 
