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LST break-in... - 7/29/2004 7:17:47 PM   
Akoni


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 7/28/2004
From: , FL, ALGERIA
Status: offline 		Well, this is my first nitro RC in a a VERY long time. Nice truck but had to rebuild the LR drive shaft out of the box, beats me how it made it out of the factory sounding like that! Anyway, I'll break it in this weekend after checking it over some more for obvious things.

If I open up the engine to check for loose metal, are there any gaskets or seals that might get damaged? I really didn't see anything in the exploded views. Should the engine Assemblies be loctited? What flavor, green or blue?

Now for the break-in. There was a time when tolerance's were not held tightly and production machining was not as advanced as it is today, this led to slow easy break-in procedures in order for parts to seat. Most of my recent experience is from racing motorcycles. Todays motorcycle engines benefit from HARDER break-ins because the production tolerances are so good that if you don't get those rings seated quickly, you wind up hurting performance and longevity. But that's an apple and I'm asking about an orange. So, nice and easy or rough and tumble or somewhere in between; what is the best procedure for breaking in one of these Mach engines?

Thanx.
       Post #: 1

RE: LST break-in... - 7/29/2004 7:33:40 PM   
califax



Posts: 137
Joined: 7/18/2004
From: Fremont, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I let my first tank idle and 1/4 throttle in 2-3 variables without the body. the second tank i went to 1/2 throttle in the same amount and same again for the third tank checking the temperature. The operating temp should be no more than 240+ and less than 300. Check your high and low speed needle settings to make sure you are not running it too lean or too rich. But typical breakins require you run the engine rich. The manual for the LST has the break in procedure, but I used the T-maxx 2.5 breakin procedure for my LST. My puppy runs smooth and strong.

(in reply to Akoni)
       Post #: 2

RE: LST break-in... - 7/30/2004 3:54:07 PM   
Akoni


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 7/28/2004
From: , FL, ALGERIA
Status: offline 		Ok.....not many opinions on break-in of the Mach .26?!?! I kind of expected a at least a few more comments. Anyway, thanks califax. I will search around a bit more and then probably go with harder break in and see how that plays out.

(in reply to califax)
       Post #: 3

RE: LST break-in... - 7/30/2004 4:22:09 PM   
califax



Posts: 137
Joined: 7/18/2004
From: Fremont, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Right on dude. I remember our first break in. It took us 5 tanks of idling and then on the sixth tank we were able to play. Just to be safe. Mainly check your hardware before you start the idle process. If you want to give it some throttle, make sure your engine is warm before you do otherwise it will stop. I noticed that I can give my LST 1/4 throttle in slight increments before I can start crushing the alley cats in my neighborhood.

(in reply to Akoni)
       Post #: 4

RE: LST break-in... - 8/1/2004 9:20:59 PM   
Stevied53


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 7/3/2004
From: Baldwinsville, NY, USA
Status: offline 		NEWBIE QUESTION:

I have read that the piston should be set to BDC while the engine is cooling down between runs at initial breakin. How do you do that? Do you remove the glow plug and push the piston down to the bottom? What I think is the flywheel seems small and recessed into the chassis. It seems like it would be difficult to put a mark on it (nail polish maybe). And again how do you tell it's at BDC? How do you guys do it?

Also, do you recommend idling/driving through a whole tank of fuel, or should I run it less time than that bewtween cool downs? Any help would be appreciated...

-Stevie D

(in reply to califax)
       Post #: 5

RE: LST break-in... - 8/1/2004 9:41:05 PM   
snortonLSTrules



Posts: 402
Joined: 5/17/2004
From: fredericksburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		First thing you should do is take the head off and move the flywheel, you will see the piston go down and then start to come back up, move it back so that the piston starts going down once at the bottom mark that flywheel with anything permanent and the chassis too. line the marks up that is bdc or very close to. right after your engine stops move that flywheel around till those marks line up and leave it there untill the engine cools down. Hope that helps

(in reply to Stevied53)
       Post #: 6

RE: LST break-in... - 8/1/2004 11:20:03 PM   
Stevied53


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 7/3/2004
From: Baldwinsville, NY, USA
Status: offline 		What I think is the flywheel on the LST is small, recessed, and hard to get to through the chassis; but I'll try pulling the head and marking the flywheel and the chasiss for BDC with some red nail polish. Thanks for the help!

-Stevie D

(in reply to snortonLSTrules)
       Post #: 7

RE: LST break-in... - 8/2/2004 12:12:10 AM   
fourwheeler



Posts: 1677
Joined: 2/12/2003
From: WELLMAN, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I used a sharpie to mark the flywheel and it worked out pretty good.

(in reply to Stevied53)
       Post #: 8

RE: LST break-in... - 8/2/2004 12:22:53 AM   
califax



Posts: 137
Joined: 7/18/2004
From: Fremont, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Whats the purpose of marking the flywheel again? And use la-mens terms please. I've noticed a lot of nitro newcomers who are asking great questions and think this thread might benefit them. So be clear and be specific.

(in reply to fourwheeler)
       Post #: 9

RE: LST break-in... - 8/2/2004 12:51:21 AM   
snortonLSTrules



Posts: 402
Joined: 5/17/2004
From: fredericksburg, VA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

quote]ORIGINAL: califax

Whats the purpose of marking the flywheel again? And use la-mens terms please. I've noticed a lot of nitro newcomers who are asking great questions and think this thread might benefit them. So be clear and be specific.

Dah It's to mark where Bottom dead center will be so you do not leave the piston up top when the engine cools down. since temps get high and metal expands at high temps you want the piston at the bottom so the sleeve will return to its original diameter and so you will not lose compression

< Message edited by snortonrustler2020 -- 8/1/2004 7:54:27 PM >

(in reply to califax)
       Post #: 10

RE: LST break-in... - 8/2/2004 5:14:44 PM   
MUDSHED



Posts: 188
Joined: 7/21/2004
From: Somewhere in the NORTH BAY, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Here is the break-in procedure that I follow with all my engines. Others may have other break-in methods, but I have trusted this method coming from a well known engine modifier who knows his S#!T.

http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.html

< Message edited by MUDSHED -- 8/4/2004 5:01:34 AM >

(in reply to snortonLSTrules)
       Post #: 11

RE: LST break-in... - 8/2/2004 8:58:47 PM   
Stevied53


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 7/3/2004
From: Baldwinsville, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Fourwheeler,

I used your Sharpie marker idea to mark my flywheel and chassis after removing the engine head and pushing the piston down to the bottom. Thanx!!

(in reply to fourwheeler)
       Post #: 12

RE: LST break-in... - 8/3/2004 3:43:23 AM   
jefx



Posts: 3562
Joined: 8/19/2003
From: mach pk, IL,
Status: offline 		You don't need to remove the head. In fact, you should replace the head shims every time you remove the head, so try to avoid it if possible. Just take the plug out and look through the hole, you can see the piston move up and down and then mark the flywheel when it's at BDC (bottom dead center).

I usually mark the flywheel and the engine block instead of the chassis, but I guess it works the same. For those who don't know, the flywheel makes exactly 1 full rotation for 1 full piston cycle so the marks always line up when the piston is at BDC.

_____________________________

Who farted??!!

(in reply to Stevied53)
       Post #: 13

RE: LST break-in... - 8/3/2004 3:45:23 AM   
jefx



Posts: 3562
Joined: 8/19/2003
From: mach pk, IL,
Status: offline 		If the flywheel is hard to get to by hand, then just take a screwdriver to turn the flywheel, and spin it in the path of least resistance untill you get to BDC.

_____________________________

Who farted??!!

(in reply to jefx)
       Post #: 14

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