RE: Seeker Wing Mold  
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pylon Universe - RC Pylon Racing >> Q-500 Racing >> RE: Seeker Wing Mold
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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 8/11/2005 9:22:45 PM   
daven



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I kinda like the black bottom also. It also helps use up my black paint that I normally only use for trim strips and numbers.

Duane, I think you talked me into sticking with white KlassKote in the molds. I'll just touch up the LE after it comes out of the mold. This wing has very little white trim, so hopefully I can just put the other cover over the white and leave it as is.

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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 8/12/2005 12:28:03 AM   
Terryoc


 

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Another reason to stick with your Klasskote is most primer are made to stick really well and have adhesives in them which is why they are a primer the top coats only have to stick to a suitably prepared base unlike a primer.
So top coat generally release easier.
Terry

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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 8/12/2005 3:15:13 AM   
daven



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I've had good success with the epoxy klasskote releasing very well, and it has filled the weave good also. A light coat won't hurt anything, and I think it will be lighter than primer. Another nice thing about the epoxy paint is that you can spray it and let it sit for a week before laying up the molds. Still no problems.

Joined and cut out the rohacell pieces tonight, as well as getting another coat of wax.

I think I will try the light, round aluminum torque rods on this. I built one, and it seems to work fine. Not the quickest thing to put together, but definately lighter.

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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 8/14/2005 3:15:41 PM   
stand-RCU


 

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Duane,
Hummm, mylar mold liners? Care to enlighten us? Sounds interesting, but I have lots of questions. Like how thick, what kind (source) of mylar, how to handle edges like at wing tips , leading and trailing edges? Any thoughts on using it in fuse molds?
I have used mylar for vacuuming wing skins, rather stiff at 6 mil if I remember with out going to the garage and looking. Makes for perfect wing surfaces.

Mylar would sure simplify the waxing and any slight mould imperfection problems.

Dave and all the other knowledgeable contributers to this thread, great job! I have spent hours combing through these posts and expanding my building skills and knowledge of composite construction.

Regards,
Stan Douglas

If the sky is falling, you can hope to catch larks.



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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 8/14/2005 3:32:54 PM   
daven



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Stan,

Hopefully you won't make the same mistakes I have made. There is definately a learning curve.

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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 8/15/2005 5:26:47 PM   
DHG


 

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Stan,

I'm using 0.014" Mylar; I think I got it from Aerospace Composites or FibreGlast, Inc. -- can't remember now.

I've only used it for wings, but if you were clever you might be able to use it on the flat parts of a Q500 fuselage mold. The main drawback of Mylar is that it won't follow compound curves. But as you've discovered when vacuum-bagging, it does simple curves beautifully, and smooths out minor imperfections.

I use it as a mold liner because my molds are fiberglass, and sometimes I've had release issues. When that happens, you've got to clean the "stuck" stuff out of the mold, which means you take the risk of gouging & scuffing the mold, and/or trying to repair the inner surface. At best, that leads to more release problems later, and at worst, it permanently changes the airfoil. With the Mylar liners, all you do is lift the wing out of the mold and if the Mylar comes with it, just peel it away later. It's flexible, unlike the mold itself. And if it gets messed up, you can just scrap it and cut a new piece.

I always do the "feather edge" T.E., so it's a simple matter of allowing the Mylar to extend back behind the T.E. For the L.E. and the tips, you can do it one of two ways: Either add those later and carefully blend them into the molded part of the wing, or if you wanted do it all as a one-shot, you'd need to lay up the mold over your plug with the Mylar sheets in place on the flat areas. Then the finished mold would have a recessed area with a .014" lip at the edge where the Mylar was, and you'd re-insert the Mylar when you were ready to mold a new wing.

D.

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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 9/3/2005 11:23:42 PM   
daven



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Well, I actually have been working on this thing, in fact, it was ready to join this morning so I snapped a few pictures.

This picture shows the wood block I use where the front wing hold down bolts will pass through, the main spar, CF support, and it also shows a thin piece of balsa at the LE that will help act as a dam at the LE ( I hope)

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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 9/3/2005 11:26:56 PM   
daven



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Heres a picture of the Center of the Wing at the TE. I built some of these aluminum tubed pushrods that I've seen used in the Shotgun and Polecat. Kinda a pain to throw together, but total weight savings over the heavy duty stuff I use, was nearly 1/2 an oz. It also shows the rear two sparss, and the circular area where I removed the rohacell for a Epoxy slurry to help support the rear wing bolts.

The 2nd picture shows the Aileron area, torque rod and rear spars.

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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 9/3/2005 11:29:08 PM   
daven



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Heres a picture of the top half of the mold at center. Once again, I removed the rohacell over the areas where the wing bolts will pass through the wing. These will get a sluryy of epoxy and chopped glass for strenth.

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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 9/3/2005 11:32:30 PM   
daven



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Heres where the fun starts. Mixed up my mixture of Pro Set Epoxy, Cabosil, and a small amount of micro ballons and applied a bead with a cake decorating bag on all of the spars and edges of the mold. I also spooged a bit on top of the front wing mount block, the areas where the rear bolts pass through, and also secured the torque rod sleeves to the bottom of the mold.

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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 9/3/2005 11:37:15 PM   
daven



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After all the spooge has been applied, I got some help from the wife to carefully put the top mold on the bottom mold, lining the alignment marbles up perfect. Since the molds have slightly started to warp, I need to clamp the whole shebang down to a flat workbench. This also helps squeeze any excess spooge out of the layup.

Once its clamped down good, I carefully lay an electric blanket over the molds, making sure its not directly touching the mold.

The last picture is an indoor / outdoor thermometer I use to measure the workshops temp, and It has a small probe that I tape to the top of the mold to measure the temp under the blanket.

This was laid up about 10 am today, should be ready to pull apart tommorrow morning.



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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 9/4/2005 6:02:58 PM   
daven



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Popped it apart this morning, and it came out of the molds very easily. Not sure if I need to use the PVA, but I'm getting a nice finish and its good insurance.

Cleaned up the flashing, being a bit more carefull with my sanding, and this is by far the best looking wing I've pulled so far. Drilled the bolt holes, and will be cutting the ailerons free shortly.

Weight is dead on 16 oz so I'm on the right track, just a hair heavier than where I want to get.

If the ailerons move good, this will be, BY FAR the best wing pulled yet.

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RE: Seeker Wing Mold - 9/4/2005 10:08:44 PM   
daven



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Things are looking good, ailerons are free, and although slightly stiff, they should be fine.

The wing doesn't look to bad.

And just in case your wondering where the green is, this wing aint for me

I'm considering adding a few black trim strips, but not sure....

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Dave Norman

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