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I bought a TNX off ebay about 1 month ago.I didn't want to write a review out of box I wanted to really test it before I write a review..

First impressions:
When I took it out of the box I took my time to look over the nice job tamiya did in improoving the old terra crusher.Everything on this truck is made light.Tires and wheels are one the lightest in its class.I was impress enough on how well they all rearrange the radio box and the chassis layout.

Break in:
This is has to be the most user friendly engine I ever owned..I read all the rbeak in instructions to the letter and did the break in..Everything went smooth...Tamiya recommends idling the first tank of fuel at 2.5 turns out on the HSN wich i did...Then for the other tanks u have to turn .5 turns out for the following tanks and drive on a flat surface and take it easy.

Durability:
It is tough!!!I planted mine to the ground so many times I lost count.Never broke a thing exept poping a shock cap off...

handling:
This is where the tnx fails out of the box..The stock shocks are not very good..If you would see how the piston of the stock shocks are made you would probably have a good laugh ..There are no piston hole in the piston weird design..But with some 80 weight shock oil it helps a lot..I replaced all shocks for some integy monster gt shocks..Problem solve..

How does it compare to other?
Well with all the monster truck out there right now buying a new truck is starting to get more complicated cause of all the choices out there.The tnx is in the same class of the savage if not better...It requires less mods to it to make it a good truck and it has this very snappy powerband that makes it shine more than a savage...The .18 engine in the tnx is one of the most user friendly engine i ever owned.The stock settings of the HSN in the manual is 2.5 and mine is set right at 2.5 and it hauls...

Conclusion:
I am very pleased with my purchase..And to me this truck would be the perfect truck for someone just starting into nitro.Cause of the engine that is so easy to adjust..And I know its a great race truck also if you look at the facts..At the proline maxx challenge the tnx was winning but lost at the last turn to a revo cause they didn't stop refueling..the tnx deserves its place with the savage and tmaxx.....

pictures:

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ORIGINAL: pakfan
top three best overall trucks 1 savage
2lst
3revo/tnx

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top three best overall trucks 1 savage
2lst
3revo/tnx

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Ok. I bought the magazine last night. Personally, I thought it was a great review. They had two sets of scores. One set of scores was for the overall kit, and the other were the test (race and bash) scores. Tunability is included in both sets of score, and is the truck's only score below an 8 (Aside from the instructions). However, the author said sometimes it is best to keep a design simple. The overall scores are as follows:

Instructions 7
Parts Quality/Fit 9
Durability 8
Tunability 7
Overall Performance 9
Value 9

I believe the test scores are much more important, and each score has a paragraph explaining their findings. Those scores are as follows:

Acceleration 8
Top Speed 9
Braking 7
Low-Speed Handling 9
High-Speed Handling 9
Rough-Track Handling 10
Tuning 7
Jumping 9
Damage 8

Overall, they said it's a great truck. The only disappointment the author mentioned was the instruction manual, and he said it was not of "Losi" quality. However, he did state ithat was typical of most RTR models.

The cover of the magazine has both a blue and red LST. They had four trucks for the test. Plus, Adam Drake showed up with his personal ride with some hop ups. They really like the suspension, and praised the shocks. Also, they have a claimed top speed of 39.2 mph. For those of you on the fence whether to buy this truck or not give it a read.

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ORIGINAL: overrev

If you don't like the post then don't look at it. mike

quote:

After owning eleven engines, I can securely say that the XTM 24.7 is the best bang for the buck engine I have ever owned or seen. The engine could have easily kept up with any other engine for under $250.00. And replacement parts for the 24.7 are very cheap and very easy to buy. So if you are looking for a great engine for your buggy or monster truck, look no further because the XTM 24.7 standard is the best bang for the buck engine money can buy.

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The Team Associated Monster GT made its debut in RC Car Action exactly one year ago in the December 2002 issue’s “First Look.” Ordinarily, “First Look” samples are soon followed by the arrival of production vehicles on shop shelves, but Associated has kept us in suspense! Cliff Lett and his design team have invested a lot of time in the details, as they wanted the Monster GT to be the best it could be before unleashing it on the world. After all, it is the first-ever monster truck from Associated, and as the saying goes, you don’t get a second chance to make a first impression. It looks as if the moment of truth is here: Associated’s Monster GT is officially available, and we finally get to take this highly anticipated truck out for a test drive!

KIT FEATURES

CHASSIS. The Monster GT’s extra-long, channeled chassis is machined from a single piece of extruded aluminum, and it extends the full length of the vehicle to form an extremely rigid and tough platform. Molded side plates are attached to the chassis to form a tub, and they provide additional room for the fuel tank, battery box and steering servo. A small skidplate molded into the right side plate protects the steering servo.

The front and rear suspension assemblies are bolted onto blue-anodized aluminum lower chassis plates. An extra-beefy, four-piece front and rear bumper and skidplate combination provides exceptional crash protection, and the piano-wire roll bar doubles as a carrying handle. The receiver and 4-cell battery holder are housed inside separate sealed boxes.

DRIVE TRAIN. The Monster GT’s shaft-drive 4WD system has a twist: the engine is mounted transversely on the chassis. On all the other shaft-driven monster trucks, the engine is mounted in-line. A bevel gear on the spur gear shaft is mated with a bevel gear inside the transmission, and that’s how the tranny gets its spin.

The transmission features a finger-type adjustable 2-speed and a servo-actuated reverse that are activated by pressing the third channel shift button on the radio. An adjustable slipper clutch provides drive-train protection, and it can be used as a traction-control device to limit wheelspin.


The piggyback reservoirs aren't functional, but everything else sure is. The arms are anchored to aluminum bulkheads.
Heavy-duty steel CV axles transfer the power from the tranny to the diffs, and another set transfers power from the diffs to the wheels. The center CV axles feature oversize balls that pivot inside giant, blue-anodized aluminum drive yokes. The diffs have hard steel ring and pinion gears and internal steel bevel gears for greater strength. The dual-disc brake used on the preproduction truck has been replaced with a single-disc brake and a thicker rotor.

SUSPENSION AND STEERING. To reduce the MGT’s part count, the front and rear suspension arms, pivot-ball carriers, body mounts, shock towers and shocks are identical. The plastic-body, oil-filled shocks have reservoirs for extra style; the reservoirs aren’t functional, but the shocks provide silky-smooth damping all the same. The shocks pass through the upper suspension arms and are mounted on the super-long lower suspension arms. The upper suspension arms pivot on oversize hinge pins that pass through heavy-duty, blue-anodized aluminum arm mounts.

Adjusting the depth of the pivot balls inside the suspension arms sets camber and can be used to make subtle track-width adjustments; thick, steel turnbuckles set the toe angles. Standard 14mm hex hubs let you bolt on wheels designed for the T-Maxx and Savage 21 and vice versa. The dual-bellcrank steering system pivots smoothly on metal bushings and a servo-saver is attached directly to the steering servo.

ENGINE AND ENGINE ACCESSORIES. A Team Associated Pro-21 engine (manufactured by Thunder Tiger) provides the go power. It features Team Associated’s patented “Dual-Start System” that allows you to pull-start the engine in the usual way, as well as crank the engine with a hex shaft (included) chucked in a cordless drill (not included). The engine also features a dual-needle slide carb, ABC piston and sleeve construction, a bushed connecting rod, a 9-fin, machined-aluminum cooling head and a dual-element, high-volume air filter.

An aluminum flywheel with fan-shaped blades directs cooling air to the engine, and a 3-shoe clutch ensures smooth and consistent power delivery. Exhaust is directed through a 180-degree cast aluminum header and aluminum dual-chamber tuned pipe. The 135cc fuel tank has a unique dual pick-up system that allows the fuel to flow to the carburetor even when the truck is on its lid. The tank also has an internal fuel filter on each pick-up to prevent dirt from entering the fuel line and a very effective in-line priming bulb.

INCLUDED ELECTRONICS & ACCESSORIES


Team Associated XP3 pistol grip radio. The XP3 is an AM, 27MHz, 3-channel radio system with steering and throttle trims, steering dual rate and throttle high and low end-point adjustments that allow you to precisely set up the MGT’s throttle and brake linkages. The radio also features a third channel shift button on the handgrip for quick and easy reverse shifting, and the steering wheel is mounted at a 10-degree angle for a natural and comfortable driving feel.

Team Associated S1903. The MGT comes with two S1903 servos: one for throttle/brake and another for third-channel shifting duties. These standard servos have 41 oz.-in. of torque and has a transit speed of 0.19 second at 60-degrees rotation. They are just fine for opening and closing the throttle lever, putting the squeeze on the brake rotor and shifting into reverse.

Team Associated S2008MG steering servo. This servo puts out 111 oz.-in. of torque and has a transit speed of 0.20 second at 60-degrees rotation. The servo also has an internal ball bearing for smooth performance and metal gears for increased durability; no need to upgrade here.
YOU'LL NEED
• Fuel
• Fuel bottle
• Glow igniter
• 12 AA batteries
• 6-cell battery

Factory Options
• Side-mount exhaust header-item no. 25405
• Blue-anodized aluminum machined chassis-25385
• "Robo" brake disc-24410
• Titanium-turnbuckle set-25383
• Blue-anodized aluminum shock bodies-25403
• Forward-only tranny kit-25415
Partial list; see manual for all options.

BODY, WHEELS AND TIRES. The MGT’s wheels are the same size as T-Maxx wheels, but the tall-sidewall, chevron-treaded tires are much bigger to provide additional ground clearance. The slotted chrome wheels and monster-truck tires are incredibly realistic and look swanky on the truck.

The MGT screen-printed body is huge! The graphics look slick, and the body arrives completely trimmed and mounted on the chassis. A blue Team Associated flag is installed on a plastic mount on the back of the truck bed, and it blows around nicely in the wind; patriotic racers will figure out a way to install an American flag in its place, though. The screen-printed bodies come in blue and red, and there’s even a limited-production body with U.S. flag graphics; I’m sure that those bodies will sell out quickly.



Above: the transmission has an auto-shifting 2-speed, a slipper clutch and a servo-actuated reverse mechanism. The gear shroud helps protect the gears (and your fingers), but a cover would be welcome.
Right: the machined extruded aluminum chassis looks like a steel girder, and it’s about as rigid as one. Look closely, and you can see the burly 5mm CV axles.

THE COMPETITION

ENGINE TRANSMISSION REVERSE SHOCKS WHEELBASE STARTER RADIO PRICE REVIEWED
Associated Monster GT .21 2-SPEED Yes 8 14.5 in(368mm) Pull/shaft Associated $499 12/03
Kyosho Mad Force RCX .21 3-speed No 8 12.5 in.(318mm) Pull-starter Not included $469 10/03
Tamiya Terra Crusher .18 2-SPEED Yes 8 14.1 in(360mm) Electric Tamiya AD Spec $409 03/02
HPI Savage 21 .21 2-speed No 8 13.25 in.(336mm) Pull-starter HPI $429 12/02
Traxxas T-Maxx .15 2-SPEED Yes 8 12 in(305mm) Electric Traxxas TQ3 $409 11/02

PERFORMANCE
I tested the MGT at the Crystal Park Hotel & Casino in Compton, CA. No, I didn’t run the truck in the hallways or through the hotel lobby; the hotel has a really cool off-road track in the back parking lot, and it also has a huge permanent on-road track there, too. The off-road track had been neglected for a while, so it was full of ruts and cracks that typically would have been repaired on race day. All the better to test the MGT’s rough-track handling abilities.

I broke in the engine before venturing off to the track, so when I got there, I was ready for action. I brought my battery-operated power drill along so I could test the Dual-Start System. I chucked the long starting shaft into the drill and inserted the hex-shaped end inside the starter-input cup. The engine fired up in less than a second and settled into a steady idle.

Before I ran the truck on the track, I flipped it onto its lid to see whether the dual pick-up fuel tank would continue to feed fuel to the carburetor with the truck upside-down. The engine continued to run, but I had to blip the throttle every 30 seconds or so to prevent the carburetor from loading up. More than five minutes passed, and the engine didn’t stall.

The MGT felt incredibly responsive, and it accelerated quickly for a truck that weighs more than 12 pounds. Team Associated got the shock oil and spring selection down; the suspension was perfect for the track condition. The shocks are soft enough to quickly cycle up and down to cope with the smaller bumps, ruts and cracks, but they also have the necessary damping to prevent the chassis from bottoming out when landing from big jumps.

The MGT had no problem coping with the track’s many obstacles, but I noticed that it pushed quite a bit in the tight corners. I had to clamp down on the brakes to transfer the weight to the front tires to get the necessary turn in. After a few laps, however, I had the truck’s handling down and made good time around the track. The reverse function was invaluable because I didn’t have to walk down from the drivers’ stand to free the truck whenever I parked it up against a pipe. The shifting mechanism works very smoothly; shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa is absolutely seamless.

After running a few tanks, I handed the wheel to assistant editor Jason Sams who had been snapping off shots for this “Track Test.” After one lap, Jason was burning up the track and putting down some extremely fast lap times. For some reason, the truck looked as if it was turning much tighter after Jason took command of the wheel. I used the radar gun to check the truck’s top speed down the long 150-foot straightaway. The MGT made several passes, and the radar gun recorded a 32mph highest speed. Unfortunately, the truck overshot the sweeper at the end of the straightaway and plowed right into a chain-link fence.

The verdict

Associated’s Monster GT is one badass monster truck. It looks good, handles great and is extremely rugged. It’s loaded with many unique features including a machined, extruded aluminum chassis, a dual pick-up fuel tank, a transverse-mounted engine and Team Associated’s Dual-Start System. The MGT also has many standard features that are considered expensive hop-up accessories on many comparable monster trucks such as front, rear and center CV axles, aluminum front and rear lower chassis plates and an aluminum dual-chamber, tuned pipe. In my opinion, the Team Associated Monster GT has definitely raised the bar in the highly popular 4WD monster truck category.

© 2004 Air Age Media
100 East Ridge, Ridgefield, CT 06877
(203) 431-9000

Attachments

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When OFNA released its Monster Pirate, the giant-tire truck's appearance screamed "Bigger is better!” With its new Titan, it seems OFNA is saying "Taller is better." Like the Monster Blazer, Monster Pirate and Dominator before it, the Titan puts 1/8-scale-buggy suspension parts to work in a monster format. But unlike those previous monster efforts, the Titan doesn't use a flat, buggy chassis; instead, the new chassis is cleverly elevated for extra ground clearance. By itself, this feature sets the Titan apart from other buggy-based monsters, but other firsts are found on top of the lifted chassis; try on a .25 engine and a steel-gear transmission for size. Let's check out everything that the Titan has to offer.



CHASSIS L'ORANGE
Yep, it's orange all right. If the main chassis looks a little bare, it's because OFNA put the front and rear gearboxes beneath the chassis rather than on top of it. But there's still plenty to look at up here; most notable are: the full-length front and rear rod braces; the polished-aluminum exhaust system; a 125cc fuel tank with spillway and cap-mounted vent; a dual-rotor disc brake; and an inverted steering servo. Because the steering servo is attached to the main chassis directly, the Titan just needs a shorty radio tray to hold the throttle servo. A pair of standoffs support the front of the tray, and the Titan's ample radio box holds up the rear.


CHROME FOAM
For sheer style, how could anyone resist a chromed air filter? The shiny stuff is just for looks, but we do appreciate the functionality of the filter's wire support, and the element is made of high-quality foam. And that's a good thing, since the Titan's .25 engine will be breathing through it quite heavily.


BIGGEST BLOCK
Thunder Tiger's EK-4 has truckdom's most massive engine with its beyond-big .70 engine, but in the world of regular-size big-block power, the Titan is the new displacement champ thanks to a .25 pull-start Force powerplant. Finned engine mounts are standard, and the usual Force features have returned: ABC piston and sleeve (punched out to displace .25ci); a 2-needle slide carb; an 11-fin heat-sink head; and a compact pull-starter. The clutch is a 3-shoe unit, and as you have no doubt noticed, there are two gears on the clutch bell; that can only mean one thing (a 2-speed, in case you haven't already guessed).

HIGH THERE
The Titan's extra ground clearance is clearly visible here. Plastic “ladder bars” help give the chassis a scale-like look, but the steel rod braces do the heavy work of supporting the front and rear sub-plates that hold the gearboxes. The individual parts are strong in their own right; all the plate parts are 3.2mm-thick aluminum. The chrome-plated wheels and chevron-lug tires are unique to the Titan, and as part of an RTR package they come factory-glued with foam inserts.


BIG BOING
There's a lot of familiar 1/8-scale buggy stuff in the suspension. The pivot-ball steering knuckles and lower suspension arms are from OFNA's MBX series, and the plated CVA drive axles have been put to good use on many of OFNA's other buggies. The shocks are identical to those spec'd on the 9.5 (except for the color), and they feature threaded, hard-anodized aluminum bodies and rubber-shaft gaiters. The Titan is OFNA's first eight-shock truck, and it features an upper-arm mounting system instead of the pierced-arm standard that was set by the Traxxas T-Maxx and Tamiya Terra Crusher. Speaking of the Tamiya and Traxxas trucks, check out the front bumper and skidplate—very Maxx-like.


HEAVY METAL
Even with the extra oomph of a .25 engine, the Titan is too much machine for a single-speed transmission to deliver both quick acceleration and nitro-worthy top speed, and that's why there's a 2-speed buried in the chassis' center. The heavy-duty, drive-dog-type unit uses wide, plastic spur gears, but the drive shafts you would expect to see poking from its outdrives are nowhere to be found. Instead, they're under the chassis.

To spin them, the Titan uses a pair of steel helical gears to reach through the chassis. The lower helical gear incorporates a stiffly sprung slipper clutch, which should greatly extend the life of the plastic spur gears. Dogbones reach from the slipper clutch to the steel-geared 1/8-scale-buggy front and rear differentials. Note that the upper half of the transmission has one “open” outdrive (on the left), and the other is used as home for the Titan's padded-caliper, dual-steel-rotor disc-brake system (on the right).


Ready to Run over Stuff
Like OFNA's Dominator and Monster Pirate, the Titan will be sold as an RTR with the usual amenities, including a fuel bottle, glow starter and a painted, trimmed body. Airtronics Blazer Sport radio gear and a 94102 throttle servo are standard equipment, but OFNA wisely upgraded to a 144 oz.-in. 94161 Pro steering servo. OFNA may even borrow a great idea from its 9.5 RTR and include a fail-safe with the Titan, but that has yet to be decided. Its inclusion will most likely hinge on the truck's final price, which has yet to be determined).


SO FAR, SO GOOD
The editors split on the Titan's orange anodizing, but we all agreed that the Titan is a very compelling next step for buggy-based monsters. The pumped-up .25 engine is welcome, its 2-speed transmission appears destruction-proof (thanks in large part to the included slipper clutch), the suspension feels right, and the wheel, tire and body package is OFNA's best-looking yet. Now, all we have to do is drive one. As much as it pained us, we promised the OFNA guys that we wouldn't run the Titan we pried away from them. But with the production truck available to us in just a couple of weeks, a complete Track Test could appear as early as the next issue. Can you hold out that long?

© 2004 Air Age Media
100 East Ridge, Ridgefield, CT 06877
(203) 431-9000

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Are you looking for a true ground-pounding, no holds barred, go anywhere, monster truck? I'm not talking about independent suspension 4WD trucks like the HPI Savage or Traxxas T-Maxx. The current crop of truggies, such as the XTM Mammoth, need not apply either. No I'm talking about four-link suspension setups, solid axles, and lots of ground clearance.


The XTM Racing X-Factor 2 fits the solid axle monster truck niche very well. Despite it's high center of gravity, due to it's large ground clearance, it can still be pretty docile on tamed surfaces thanks to the included sway bars. However if you're looking to hit the rough stuff, simply removing the sway bars provides you with the ability to cover some seriously rough terrain. Terrain that would leave many truck spinning their wheels in disgust.


Do you think you have an area that that could soon become your X-Factor's favorite stomping ground? If so, grab your truck and go ahead and rip off those sway bars. Because this truck is all about suspension articulation, and when it comes to that, the XTM X-Factor 2 delivers with style.






Model Name: XTM Racing X-Factor 2 RTR
Price: $379.99 list price
Type: 4x4 Nitro Powered Monster Truck
Length: 19.5" (495mm)
Width: 16.375" (416mm)
Wheelbase: 13.125" (333mm) Adjustible to 13.625" (346mm)
Center Ground Clearance: 4.25" (108mm)
Weight: 12 lbs. (5.44 kg)
Chassis: 3.0mm CNC Machined
Engine: XTM Racing 24.7 (4.02cc)
Fuel Tank: 125cc With Internal Stone Filter
Drivetrain: 2 Speed/4 Wheel Drive
Suspension: Four Link Cantilever with Solid Axles
Shocks: Threaded Aluminum Shocks with Dust Boots
Wheels: Chrome Plastic "Y-Spoke" (2.25 x 3.375")
Tires: Rubber Chevron Tread/No Inserts



Additionally Required Items

Transmitter Batteries or Rechargeable Pack
Receiver Batteries or Rechargeable Pack
Glow Igniter
Nitro
Fuel Bottle
Long Reach Glow Plug Wrench
Air Filter Oil
Flathead Screwdriver






Lexan Body

Accessories

Documentation

Upon opening the box containing the X-Factor 2 the first thing you notice is the suspension and chassis itself. The four-link suspension, cantilevers, and solid axles, look like they are ready to tackle anything. Once you pull the truck out a little further though, you also notice the cool features don't stop there. The included lexan body shell is very nicely finished with red and white flames, which makes for one very nice looking truck once it's tricked out with the provided decals.


A finished body translates into less prep time, which will get you up and running faster. To protect the body, it also comes with a protective plastic film that peels off before you place your desired stickers on it. Once you peel the film off, the body really shines, and it's easy to see how the truck can catch someone's eyes once you're out tearing up your favorite stomping ground.


Other accessories included in the box are a small wrench, antenna tube, frequency identifying flag, and preload spacer clips. The antenna tube is a necessity, as you'll need something to house and protect the receiver antenna. The included wrench will prove useful when making repairs or adjustments to the truck. The frequency flags may or may not prove useful, depending upon whether or not you run in an area that would require their use. Most owners probably won't need or use them. I would have liked to see XTM provide a hex driver for removing the wheels, but they chose not to. So you'll need to pick up a 3mm hex driver before you can remove the tires and wheels.


The included preload spacers are a mystery as to why they were included, but I'm assuming it was a mistake XTM made when switching production from making the original X-Factor to the X-Factor 2. The first incarnation of the X-Factor used plastic preload spacers for the shocks, where the current shocks have a threaded aluminum preload adjuster. The plastic preload spacers are not necessary with the new threaded aluminum shocks.


The X-Factor 2 comes with an outstanding assortment of manuals and decals. You have a manual that deals solely with the XTM 24.7 motor, and another that provides you a list of parts for future reference. A third manual covers the truck in general, handling such issues as break-in. It also covers areas such as tuning and suspension adjustments. A really nice feature of this manual is that it details the installation of common upgrades, and tips for common desires of X-Factor owners such as rock crawling. The only disappointment was that there's no exploded diagram of the truck. While the parts list shows pictures of most of the items, a set of exploded diagrams would help make teardown, and reassembly, much easier for a new owner.


There are two sheets of decals included with the X-Factor 2. One is from Hitec, since they supplied the model's radio. The other sheet consists of well detailed die-cut stickers targeted specifically towards the X-Factor 2. These stickers include such items as headlights, taillights, and windows, and will help provide your truck with a much more finished look once they are applied.



Side View

Top View

Front Steering Servo

The solid axle and cantilever setup on the X-Factor 2 provide a drastically different look when compared to the independent suspension configurations provided by other vehicles of the monster truck genre. Not only does the suspension offer massive articulation, but it also mimics the setups found on true monster trucks as well. Despite the high center of gravity this type of setup provides, the X-Factor 2 still handles reasonably well. Especially when the included sway bars are installed. Just don't expect touring car or 4WD buggy performance out of it, as that's not it's design.


A quick look from the top of the X-Factor 2 and you can see how easily most of the components can be accessed. The motor, receiver box, and fuel tank are all easily within reach. Everything on the truck is supported by the rugged 3mm thick chassis plate that should withstand plenty of brutal punishment before it shows any signs of damage.


The stock steering servo is unusual when compared to servos included with many other remote controlled monster trucks. It is a XTM X-77, and has metal gears to withstand any abuse that might get sent it's way. That is definitely a welcome addition over it's predecessor. Although I appreciate the metal gears, I'd still like to see the servo provide more than the 77 oz. of torque it does. The big tires you'll find in the monster truck genre need a lot of torque to help provide turning power at speed, so the more torque that's provided the better in my opinion.


Upon looking at the steering servo, it's more exposed than I'd like it to be. The front bumper above it doesn't seem like it would offer a lot of protection either as it flexes considerably. I'd like to see an aluminum plate rising from the servo mount to protect the front of the servo, as I would be reluctant of placing a high dollar steering servo in the X-Factor 2 without more protection.



Receiver Box

Rear View

Cantilever Links/Swaybar

The receiver and battery boxes are located just behind the front shock tower. The Phillips head screws to open up either box can be easily accessed, so that the box covers can be removed. Foam bottom pieces help protect the electronics from the harsh vibrations that will accompany a truck that's driven off-road. The battery box features a newly located on/off switch that's much easier to access than the previous X-Factor's was. In addition, XTM has equipped the switch with a dustproof cover to help protect it as well.


The battery box also includes a AA battery holder that accommodates 4 AA cells. You can also remove the battery holder and use a receiver pack instead. I suggest the use of a 5-cell pack if that's the route you wish to take. The manual suggests using their 5-cell NiMH 1000 Mah pack (#145801). It should fit perfectly and provide you with a couple hours of runtime. The manual also recommends a Cirrus switch harness (#444733) to facilitate easy charging without having to remove the pack from the battery box.


The rear of the truck offers something interesting that's rarely planned for in an out of the box model, rear wheel steering. Many owners may benefit from adding the rear wheel steering upgrade, so if it's something you're interested in XTM has prepared for it. The conversion requires several parts aside from the servos, but the manual details all items needed so there's no question about what you'll need to pick up to add this feature to your X-Factor.


Another prominent feature of the rear of the truck is the XTM dual-tipped muffler. When the 24.7 motor is running, the muffler has a very nice and distinct sound that's sure to garner you some attention. If you prefer to go the tuned pipe route XTM also offers an optional tuned pipe, part number 145824, that is an easy replacement. The dual muffler tips are a little exposed if you should happen to land on the rear of the truck while jumping, or pull a massive wheelie. So if you're looking for a little more protection in that area the optional XTM wheelie bars may prove useful. They're available from XTM as part number 149625.

The truck comes with sway bars installed on it from the factory. The sway bars fit into holes on the lower suspension links, and are held rigid by zip ties at their corners. Removal or reinstallation of the sway bars takes less than a minute, so it's easy to tailor the suspension to the terrain. The sway bars provide stability by preventing body roll when cornering. While the suspension provides good articulation with the sway bars installed, when they are removed the X-Factor 2 can achieve the massive articulation that rock crawlers desire.



Wheels

Axle

Axle Stub

The stock wheels are what XTM calls "Y-Spoke" wheels. They have a very original look to them, and provide an excellent amount of flash to the trucks look. Given the current crop of out of the box wheels, the X-Factor 2 has some of the best looking wheels I've seen. Another thing that impressed me regarding the wheel and tire combination is the fact they are glued at the factory. This saves you time when going from the box to the dirt. The included tires, with their Chevron pattern, provides decent traction on most surfaces.


The axles themselves are contained in beefy housings that should withstand some of the roughest terrain you can throw their way. The axles, and their housings, are part of what provide the truck with its characteristics. The axle is one continuous segment from end to end, and when combined with the cantilever setup of the X-Factor 2, provides lots of articulation to tackle rough terrain. The transfer of power from the transmission to the individual axles is handled by 1/8 scale differentials. They come stock packed with lightweight grease, but can easily be switched over to heavier grease or silicone differential oil. This makes tightening up the differential action very easy when maximum traction is desired.


The current trend for monster trucks currently is using an axle setup that is compatible with Maxx wheels. The X-Factor 2, in stock trim, deviates from this commonly used setup in favor of it's own system. First of all the wheels are retained by a button head screw that requires a 3mm hex driver to remove. Then the tire and wheel simply slip right off. Once they're out of the way, you'll quickly notice the absence of a hex adapter, which is used with a Maxx-type setup. The beefy axle pin fits directly into the X-Factor's wheel.


You may also notice the axle stubs are housed inside some rather large bearings. To be exact these bearings are 8x16x5mm, and are definitely durable enough to withstand the loads placed on them when this heavy truck gets airborne. You may not notice how the pin is held in place however. Inside the axle stub is a grub screw. It tightens down against the axle pin and prevents it from slipping out when the wheel is removed. To remove the grub screw , you'll need to use a 2.5mm hex driver.


If all the talk regarding the fact that the axles are not compatible with Maxx-type wheels worries you because of a set of Maxx wheels you've been wanting to buy for it, don't. XTM offers an optional kit that changes the axle setup so those Maxx wheels you planned on buying can be used with the X-Factor 2. Overall though, I think the X-Factor's axle setup is very tough, and will withstand plenty of punishment.



Driveshaft

Transmission Skid Plate

Aluminum Shocks

The telescoping drive shafts provide a tough and durable backbone to the drive train. The driveshaft itself is 5mm in diameter at it's narrowest point, and is made of hardened steel. The pin that holds the ball joint and cup together, which is a common cause for failures in this sort of setup, is held in place by a Teflon insert locking nut. This provides a secure setup and should virtually eliminate the possibility of the pin slipping out as can happen with other CVD setups. You'll also notice a telescoping joint that provides the ability for the axle to change length as the suspension compresses and decompresses.


The one thing missing on the driveshafts, that I'd like to see, is some sort of rubber boot to protect the CV joints. While the design of the XTM driveshafts, with their locking nut, may require a unique boot when compared to other CV driveshafts it would still be a worthwhile improvement. Dirt is the enemy of the CVD setup, and some rubber or silicone boots would help prevent dirt from finding it's way into the joints and causing wear.


The underside of the transmission is protected by a metal skid plate. It shields the transmission from any rocks or other potentially damaging obstacles that you may encounter. Since the adjustable two-speed transmission is the part that transfers the power from the motor to the wheels, it's a very important component. So underside protection for the transmission is very beneficial.


The threaded aluminum shocks are 1/8 scale buggy shocks, and will prove to be very durable when compared to plastic shocks that are found with other off-road trucks. The threaded preload adjusters on them makes preload changes easy, and eliminates the need to keep up with separate plastic spacers like the first version of the X-Factor required. Another very nice touch is the rubber shock boots, which protect the shock shafts themselves. They prevent dirt and debris from scratching the shock shafts, which can ultimately lead to a leaky shock.



Disk Brakes

Brake Pads

Carrying Handle

Braking power for the X-Factor 2 is provide by dual stainless steel brake disks. The disks are cross-drilled to help provide additional cooling ability, which translates into less brake fading when used heavily and repeatedly. The brake pads are paired up with one set for each disk. All of this provides you with plenty of braking power when you need it. Since the X-Factor 2 tips the scales at around 12 pounds, brakes of this caliber and strength are well deserved.


The X-Factor 2 comes with a handle to help carry it when needed. Since this truck has few other areas that facilitate a good location to carry it easily with one hand, the handle is a very useful addition. You can also see that the throttle/brake servo is a Hitec HS-311, which is very suitable for handling the task it's assigned to. XTM has also provided a throttle return spring that ties the servo horn to the fuel tank to help prevent a runaway should power to the receiver be interrupted.



Motor

Optional Reversing Servo

Cantilever Rockers

The power plant for the X-Factor 2 is a XTM 24.7. This motor is well known for it's impressive torque and power characteristics. With a displacement size of just over 4cc, it's easy to see why it can provide the 2.6 horsepower that XTM states it does. A reusable foam filter element removes airborne debris trying to enter the motor, while a XTM dual-tipped muffler handles removing the spent exhaust once combustion has occurred.

The low speed needle is easily accessed from the right-hand side of the truck, making adjustments to it very easy. The stock clutch bell is vented and has 15 teeth. It also houses a 3-shoe clutch to provide a good solid transfer of power to the transmission. The 15-tooth clutch bell is mated to a 46 tooth steel spur gear with a slipper clutch. This provides a nice combination of speed and power. However, if you're after more stump-pulling torque, or top end speed, alternate gears are available. A nicely finished blue anodized motor mount, designed as a heat sink, secures the entire motor to the chassis.


The main chassis plate contains a cutout for the optional reversing servo that can be installed if desired. This was originally a stock item on the previous version of the X-Factor, but was removed for this revision. Many people removed reverse soon after purchasing the original truck anyway. So to help offset the cost of some of the upgrades that were installed with the X-Factor 2, XTM Racing decided to offer it as an option this time around.


The cantilever rockers are molded from thick, durable plastic. At their widest point they are 7mm thick.The pivot point on the chassis uses bearings so that their operation is a smooth as possible. For the ultimate in flash and durability XTM Racing offers aluminum rockers as an upgrade item.



Main and Idle Needles

Inside Receiver Box

Hitec Radio

The high speed needle, and the idle adjustment screw, are unobstructed and reached easily from the left-hand side of the truck. You'll also find all the carburetor and braking linkages here as well, which puts nearly everything you'd need to adjust in one simple place.


The receiver box houses the stock Hitec HP-2RNB receiver, which is one of Hitec's basic AM units. The receiver box itself, should easily accommodate about any aftermarket receiver as well. You should also have plenty of room to slide a failsafe in the box as well, as XTM provided the X-Factor 2 with a very roomy receiver box.


The included radio is a Hitec Aggressor AM. It's a basic radio with analog trims, which is typical of most RTR models currently available. Over the long term a better radio, with digital trims and other features, may be desired. However for many, the Hitec Aggressor may satisfy their needs just fine. I do like the fact that the Hitec Aggressor that came with this model uses the 75 MHz band, as it allows for 30 frequency channels instead of the 6 provided by radios that use the 27 MHz band. This means you'll have a greater number of frequency channels to pick from if you happen to need a new set of crystals. You will want to check the box before you buy however, as the X-Factor 2 also comes packaged with a 27 MHz Hitec Aggressor as well.





Apply Stickers

Cut Cooling Hole

Fuel Access Hole

Even though the X-Factor 2 arrives nearly complete, there are still a few things you'll need to do to get it prepped and ready. The first thing you'll want to do is to peel the overspray film off of the body. Then apply the included decals onto the body however you wish. When placing the decals, keep in mind that you will be cutting a cooling hole in the front windshield.


The included truck body will need a hole cut in the windshield for cool air to pass through, allowing the motor to stay cool. Simply line up with the location for the motor, and cut a hole in the windshield. I normally use a hole saw and a cordless drill when doing this, but I didn't have one available to me in the field this time. So I found something handy to draw a circle with on the windshield, and used a body hole reamer to create a couple of starting holes. Then finished it up with a pair of curved lexan scissors I keep in my pit box. I also found it necessary to trim a little material away from the back of the truck, to prevent contact between the dual-tipped muffler and the lexan truck body.


I also decided to set my truck body up to easily facilitate refueling. I cut a hole in the side window to allow me to pass my fuel bottle tip through. To allow me to easily open the fuel tank lid, I attached a zip tie to the front of the lid. If you look closely you can see this through the hole in the side window. Then I passed the zip tie out through the slot in the back that's made for the carrying handle. This allows me to easily open the fuel tank and refill it, without the need to remove the body.



Install Antenna

Antenna Protection

Head Protection

Another detail needing attention, is the receiver antenna. The antenna wire needs to be pushed through the included antenna tube. The wire should go in fairly easily, but if you encounter any difficulty sprinkle a little baby powder on the antenna wire before trying to push it through. Next you'll want to insert the lower end of the tube into the receiver box on the chassis. Allow the excess wire to hang out of the top of the tube.


The receiver antenna does have a lot of excess wire, but make sure you don't cut it. You can allow it to dangle out of the end of the tube loosely, or you can use some heat shrink tubing to offer it some protection. To protect it with heat shrink tubing, simply twist the antenna wire around the tube and slide a section of heat shrink tubing over it. Then heat the tubing with a lighter or heat gun to shrink it around the wire and antenna tube. This should protect the antenna wire from nearly everything that it may encounter.


Since the X-Factor will see lots of abuse, and it's motor head is exposed through the truck body, you may want to use some zip ties to help protect the heat from becoming scratched and damaged. Simply insert four zip ties between the first and second motor head fins, and cinch them tight. Once that's completed, snip the excess plastic off of the zip tie. While the zip ties won't protect the motor head from everything, it will help and provides you with a fair amount of protection.



Oil Filter

Receiver Batteries

Radio Batteries

The air filter for the X-Factor doesn't come pre-oiled. So you'll want to ensure you pick some air filter oil up before you set out to run your truck. I used some Team Associated filter oil to wet the filter. You'll want to apply several drops all around the outside edges of the filter. Then knead the filter between your fingers to evenly disperse it throughout the foam element. Squeeze any excess filter oil out, and you should be left with a foam filter that is solidly colored the same as your filter oil, and slightly tacky to the touch.


You'll need to install four AA batteries into the battery holder, which is located in the battery box. Alternatively, you could also replace the battery holder with a receiver pack. In that case the receiver pack would plug straight into the receiver itself. Over the long term, this would be a much more reliable route than using AA batteries. As mentioned earlier, the manual suggests using the XTM 5-cell NiMH 1000 Mah pack (#145801). It should fit perfectly and provide you with a couple hours of runtime. The manual also recommends a Cirrus switch harness (#444733) to facilitate easy charging with the pack in the battery box.


The Hitec Aggressor radio will also need to have AA batteries installed in it. For the radio, you'll need eight AA batteries. You could also purchase a rechargeable radio pack. However if you plan on replacing the radio later, you may be better off to just save your money and buy a rechargeable pack that fits the new radio you will buy later on down the road.


Finally before you take off, you'll also want to spend a little time checking all of the screws on the car itself. It's not uncommon to find a few screws that need to be tightened down. While I didn't find any that needed to be addressed, another model could easily have some that are loose.




Before I started tackling the rough terrain, I needed to break the XTM 24.7 in. I generally followed the procedure in the manual which is laid out pretty straightforward. The break-in process consists of running for several sessions, each for just a few minutes. You allow the motor a cool down period between each run.


The first few runs you'll want to ensure your needle settings are nice and rich, then you'll start to lean the motor out slightly with each new period of running. As I neared the optimum leaned out range, I started letting the motor run through about 1/2 to 3/4 of a tank instead of just the few minutes as the book described. This allowed the motor to become accustomed to a longer run period as it got closer to it's optimum settings.


The break-in process sounds pretty simple, but in reality it did require some patience. The XTM 24.7 is a big motor with a lot of compression. So it did flood several times during the break-in, which required me to remove the glow plug so that I could dump the excess fuel that had accumulated in the combustion chamber. You definitely do not want to pull the pull starter too much when the motor becomes flooded, as you can damage the pull starter, or possibly the motor.


Even without being flooded the pull start got quite a workout starting this motor. I discovered that soon after break-in was complete, the recoil spring had become a little too lazy when snapping the line back into the pull start. At first I had planned on replacing the pull start with another one, but my local hobby store had a TigerDrive available for the 24.7 when I stopped by. This enabled me to use my cordless drill to start the truck, which I find much easier on a motor such as this.


I think that XTM would have done well to consider some type of electric or drill start, like the Tiger Drive replaced my stock pull start with. It would make it much easier to break the motor in, especially in the earlier stages when the piston and sleeve are really tight. During the early stages of break-in, I would suggest the use of gloves for anyone who uses the pull start. I managed to scuff up my knuckles pretty good when using the pull start, and know from experience that the body clips on the X-Factor's body posts don't feel very good when they encounter your hand as it's jerking the pull start out.


Once I got past the break-in, and the pull start was replaced, things got much easier and a lot more fun. The XTM 24.7 motor definitely provides some serious power, and pushes the motor to it's maximum RPM very quickly. While this motor can push the truck to speeds of around 40MPH, it's specialty is low end grunt. This is exactly what you're after when coping with rough terrain, because most of the time you'll be using partial throttle instead of holding it wide open.


The XTM dual-tipped muffler provides a very distinctive exhaust note, and is louder than many tuned exhausts that I've encountered. I don't consider that a bad thing myself, but anyone with neighbors that are in close proximity may want to stick with running the X-Factor during times that it wouldn't offend anyone. If you take it to a local park, or public area, you're sure to find that a crowd quickly collects around you, so they can see what all the noise is about.


The stock tires perform fairly well overall, but are a little too hard for providing maximum traction. With the sway bars installed the truck would tend to spin out on pavement when I cornered hard, which saved the body from suffering a lot of damage. With the sway bars removed however, the truck would often exhibit lots of body roll. Sometimes it was enough to cause the truck to flip, even with the stock tires. That's not much of a surprise though, as body roll is exactly what the sway bars are supposed to address.


In the dirt and rough stuff, is where the tires showed more of a weakness. Traction was a lot harder to find as opposed to pavement. Although the stock tires did as good a job as most I've encountered, tires would be one area I'd definitely consider for one of my first upgrades. The lack of inserts provided the tires the ability to flex considerably, but they are still no match for a good soft pair of Pro-Line or Imex tires. This is especially true if you're playing in areas where the suspension articulation is put to good use, such as rock climbing. The stock tires have very little grip in that situation, and an upgrade is almost certainly mandatory.


When tackling the larger jumps, the truck also showed the need for inserts. Due to the truck's weight, larger jumps would result in the tire flattening upon landing, transferring all of the shock to the wheel and the suspension. While inserts in the stock tires would result in less traction due to the tire's inability to flex as much, it would help with landing after becoming airborne. Again the best option would be to swap to a good aftermarket set of tires. They would provide more traction overall, and due to their inserts they would also retain their shape better when landing from a large jump.


If you plan on performing many jumps, I'd also recommend keeping the sway bars installed. A bad landing with the sway bars removed can result in the suspension articulation coming into effect, which can possibly cause you to flip or roll. This is especially true if you have a tendency to land a little less than perfect. The sway bars prevent the suspension from providing the large amount of articulation that in can provide. In the worst case, no sway bars and a bad landing, can result in a broken suspension link. An example of this is the last jump on the X-Factor's review video. In in, I managed to break a plastic suspension link end in exactly that scenario. While the replacement part is cheap, it will still result in a few minutes of repair time.
























Considering the high center of gravity that a truck of this nature provides, I found that the XTM handles much better than I thought it would. This truck was never intended to be a corner carver, but it still retains a very good amount of drivability at speed on level ground. While it can tackle the really rough stuff much better than independent suspension trucks, flying wide open across moderately rough terrain can often result in the truck flipping due to it's higher center of gravity. So it's far from having the characteristics of many monster trucks out there, but can far exceed their capabilities when the terrain gets really tough. Furthermore XTM offers several spring combinations that should help improve handling under various conditions as well.


When it comes to rock crawling, it's generally accepted that electric trucks are the way to go. This is due to the fact that electric motors offer all of their torque when they first begin to spin, while a nitro power plant builds up it's torque a little more gradually. However with the low-end power the XTM 24.7 provides, it shows that the nitro guys can have fun on the rocks as well even if the electric guys still have an advantage. All of my testing was performed with the truck in stock form, and it performed fairly well in the areas I ran it. Especially considering it was in stock trim. However for the serious rock crawler, there are quite a few things you can do to improve the ability of your XTM X-Factor 2.


The first rock crawling improvement I've already touched on, it's the tires. A good set of soft tires will provide you a lot more grip when you start climbing over the rocks. Without superb traction from the tires, you'll never get anywhere. Another upgrade for those interested in rocky terrain is a smaller clutch bell. The smaller clutch bell will provide you more torque at the wheels, and will help get the truck moving over the large rocks that might be in it's way. You can also change the spur gear to a larger one, to help provide you more torque as well.


Other things that will help you when rock climbing are replacing the vertical cantilever rods with shocks identical to the ones on the truck. This will allow the suspension to articulate even further, and help you crawl over more difficult rocks. You can also lengthen the truck's wheelbase by adjusting the four link suspension as described in the manual provided by XTM. Lastly switching to the XTM optional sliding clutch, and using heavy differential oil in the 1/8 scale differentials will provide you with more power making it to the wheels.


So while the electric rock crawlers still hold a distinct advantage when compared to their nitro counterparts, the X-Factor 2 tries hard as well too. If you're looking for a truck that can cope with the rocks, but still want to go nitro, the X-Factor 2 may be just what you're after.



See the XTM Racing X-Factor 2 in action!
Resolution: Low Medium High




The X-Factor 2 is a definite improvement over the original version of the X-Factor. It has a longer wheelbase, which provides more stability than the previous version. Enhancements such as the metal gear steering servo, threaded shocks, and relocated on/off switch, show that XTM was dedicated to improving the X-Factor. The newly colored body and chrome wheels helped round out the look for the truck, and sets it apart from the previous version of the X-Factor.


If I were looking at upgrades, about the only big item I'd consider immediately are the tires. A different set of tires will provide a much more well rounded truck overall, especially in the dirt. A fail safe to compliment the included throttle return spring would be a nice addition to the truck as well. I would also upgrade to a FM radio, but it would not be necessary by any means. Many people would be satisfied with the Hitec Aggressor, especially when they are just getting used to the truck.


Overall the truck is very rugged, and can take a decent amount of punishment. If XTM were to look for areas to improve the next time around, I'd say an alternate starting method for the XTM 24.7 would be great improvement. Pull starts can be intimidating for newcomers, and when coupled with a high compression motor can be rough for even a veteran's hands. They could also look into ways to help protect that front servo. While I never encountered any problems with damaging it, I still feel as if it's a little too exposed. Overall, I think the truck itself is very well featured. What's even better than all of that, is that they managed to improve this version of the X-Factor, but yet made the street price even lower than the first one. A more affordable truck is always a winning feature.





XTM Racing
Distributed Exclusively By
Global Hobby Distributors
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA 92708 USA
Phone: 714-963-0329
Fax: 714-964-6236
Website: www.teamx-factor.com


Associated Electrics, Inc.
3585 Cadillac Ave.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626 USA
Phone: 714-850-9342
Fax: 714-850-1744
Website: www.teamassociated.com
Products used: air filter oil


Dubro, Inc.
480 Bonner Road
Wauconda, IL 60084 USA
Phone: 732-635-1600
Website: www.dubro.com
Products used: fuel bottle


Dynamite RC
Distributed Exclusively By Horizon Hobby, Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, IL 61822 USA
Phone: 800-338-4639
Phone: 217-352-6799
Website: www.dynamiterc.com
Products used: glow igniter, glow plug wrench

Sullivan Products
1 North Haven Street
PO Box 5166
Baltimore, MD 21224 USA
Phone: 410-732-3500
Phone: 410-327-7443
Website: www.sullivanproducts.com
Products used: TigerDrive


Trinity Products, Inc.
36 Meridian Road
Edison, NJ 08820 USA
Phone: 800-848-9411
Fax: 732-635-1640
Website: www.teamtrinity.com
Products used: Mon

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