RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter  
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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/11/2007 6:18:36 AM   
marnochs



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Joined: 1/28/2006
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
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Been working on the Jump Doors. Top guide is 1/8"x1/4" rectangle StripStyrene tube and the top rail is 3/32" H section from Plastruct. I just set up a guide for my dremel tool cutoff wheel and made a grove in the rectangle tube.
Lower guide is 1/8" square tube from StripStyrene that I cut another groove in alittle off center. The lower rail is 1/8" brass C channel from K&S metal. Next on the list is the front doors and the utility door.

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< Message edited by marnochs -- 8/11/2007 6:21:30 AM >

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/11/2007 8:44:54 PM   
marnochs



Posts: 73
Joined: 1/28/2006
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
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And the Utility door..... used Nelson Hobby 5/8" piano hinge. The door latch is from Hobby Lobby (best hatch latch)

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/13/2007 2:45:25 PM   
bob_peterson


 

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Looking great! You are moving right along. Thanks for posting all the pictures.

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/13/2007 4:20:44 PM   
marnochs



Posts: 73
Joined: 1/28/2006
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
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Thanks Bob,

Its getting closer, I want to try and have primer on the fuse by the end of August and I think I might make it.

Here's the latest... front door installation. Will be using 1/16 dia screws and nuts for the hinge hardware instead of the pins. They were just so I could glue the hinges in place.
Formed the hinge plates out of .060 sheet fiberglass. Used Rubberized CA to glue them in. Will install a stiffener on front side of door between the two hinge plates, its a little flexy as it is.

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< Message edited by marnochs -- 8/13/2007 4:23:30 PM >

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       Post #: 79

RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/15/2007 3:45:00 PM   
marnochs



Posts: 73
Joined: 1/28/2006
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
Status: offline
started to work on the cowl fuselage area, plus I wanted to see what it would look like with some primer on it. I did find that the firewall wasn't quite flat, so I mixed up some epoxy and milled glass and filled in the gap. I used a piece of glass with some mold release agent on it. must not have put enough on it because it still did a good job of sticking to the glass in a couple of spots. took a while to vacuum up the broken glass..... .
Used Bondo to float off the low spots.

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/17/2007 4:08:51 PM   
tks1


 

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This is great everyone. Nice builds. The pics are really going to help with my build.

Closterman mentioned that there were some changes to the kit to reinforce the front end as well as changing the elevator to 2 servos. Does anyone have any pics of this - specifically the 2 servos for the elevator?

Thanks again all.
TKS1

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/19/2007 5:55:52 PM   
marnochs



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From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
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Hi tks1,

In my kit, there was the option to install part # FUN1 or FUN2 (step 7 of the fuslage build- PC6-Manual-Rev2.pdf) for single or dual elevator servo. I went with the single elevator servo and used a Hitec HS-5745( rudder also).

Worked on the elevator filet, just used good old Bondo again and smoothed it out. I did find that if i ligned area on the elevator (in the inside too) with masking tape the bondo released much better, plus it gave me a consistant gap.


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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/19/2007 11:05:00 PM   
tks1


 

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Thanks marnochs.

What would be the advantage of going with 2 hi torque servos as opposed to 1 giant scale servo?

tks1

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/21/2007 4:00:45 AM   
marnochs



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From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
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Main advantage is redundancy on pitch control. Lose and aileron or rudder servo - no big deal, lose the elevator and then you get to try to fly the airplane with the throttle and/or flaps for pitch control (but probabably not for long). This being said, I opted for the less redundant single servo mainly because I didn't want to split the elevator shaft and install a second hinge point (like on the Beaver- page2 -post 28). I was toying with the idea of placing 2 servos in the stab itself but would have had to use mini servos, but I didn't think they would be up to the job.
I plan on doing through preflights on the control systems and also the Eagletree inflight Telemery system will signal if the electrical system starts drawing too much current ( main battery current sensor along with main battery voltage sensor and receiver voltage sensor {after the voltage regulator}). I have the same system on my 1/3 scale Ventus 2ax and it provides "piece of mind" while flying ( 25lbs of Sailplane )

< Message edited by marnochs -- 8/29/2007 3:14:08 AM >

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/21/2007 1:02:02 PM   
tks1


 

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Thanks again marnochs.


tks1

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/21/2007 4:30:38 PM   
marnochs



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From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
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Here's a screen shot of some of the data that you get realtime with the Eagletree system. Right now the only problem is that you have to look at the screen while your flying. I have a friend call off the airspeed on the initial flights to find out where the stall speed is. I have low voltage alarms set for the battery and receiver voltage.

Pink - Altitude
Gray - Airspeed
Green - Receiver voltage - after the 6 volt regulator
Brown - Battery pack voltage

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/28/2007 5:44:59 PM   
marnochs



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Worked alittle on the engine cooling baffles. Used two part expanding foam to fill the area between the two balsa pieces. You can tell which side was the first go round and which was the second. Need to smooth it all out and will do a light fiberglass (1.4oz) cover over it all. Extended the top of the scoop with 1/64 ply and will fiberglass it in as well.

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< Message edited by marnochs -- 8/29/2007 3:20:10 AM >

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/29/2007 3:38:41 AM   
tks1


 

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Looks good marnochs. Is the fuse glassed already? Im presuming that is grey primer on it?

tks1

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RE: 10 ft PC6 Turbo Porter - 8/30/2007 6:27:44 AM   
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