getmoneyd
Posts: 20
Joined: 12/12/2004 From: Douglasville,
GA, USA Status: offline
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I have experienced all the problems listed below with my RC18t. I believe Associated rushed the RC18T to market to quickly and should have fixed these problems before realeasing the car to the public. Does anyone have any pictures of how to shim the diff? I dont understand how to get the job done? quote:
ORIGINAL: Capgun_Slim This thread is getting hard to keep up with. Earlier, someone asked what the weak points of the 18T are. Not in any particular order. The problem and the fix. Stub axles, (get CVD's or a wide BPR racing front bumber will help) spring retainers (plastic piece that holds the bottom of shock springs), (CA glue the retainers to the plastic ballcup, or make a tiny wire leash. For more on that go to rc18t.com.) Dogbone fallout (again, CVD's, also Mini-T dogbones fit better than the stock ae bones. Fix 2, pull the springs out and give them a good stretch before re-inserting them, this holds more pressure on the bones. Fix 3, put 1/16" brass compression sleeves over the output shafts.) Snap, crackle, pop, grind sound after landing a jump or hard acceleration, (shim the diff using these washer shims http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/148624.asp or I used a second to the thinnest AE shock spacer on it, and it works fine. I read it somewhere and tried it. Be sure to shim the correct side. Rear passenger side, and drivers side for the front diff.) Another problem is the D-ring on the output shaft gets stripped out. I haven't done this one yet, but I've heard to fix it, CA glue the D-ring washer onto the shaft. I think that's about it, but if there's something I've missed, I'm sure someone will chime in. Hope this helps someone...
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