Ron Kay
Posts: 56
Joined: 10/21/2002 From: Prescott,
AZ, USA Status: offline
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Mark, It looks great.. BUT measure twice and cut once... The 7" is not a tremendous issue with this model but could be with others. The only affect more dihedral will have is a bit more lateral stability and a bit slower overall flying speed. It has to with the geometry. More dihedral slower flight and generally more stable. On the other hand a flat wing, no dihedral is normally associated with a fast and not as stable or forgiving aircraft ... MAKE SURE THE LEADING EDGE AND TRAILING EDGE OF BOTH STARBOARD AND PORT TIPS MEASURE THE SAME. What I'm getting at is washout and warp. The trailing edge can be as much as 1/4" higher then the leading edge. This will assist you when landing... they call it washout. Make sure the wing is symmetrical. A twisted wing will result in an airplane that's not stable and want's to roll or worse. A symmetrical wing will hold the plane in a stable position without tendency to roll, pitch or yaw causing you to continue to provide correction input ... This is an extremely stable model and once launched it should hold good heading, roll, pitch and yaw without input. If you followed the directions on the dihedral joints you shouldn't need to coat them with additional epoxy. At this point it will serve no purpose other then to add weight. The real strength is achieved in the face to face bonding of the spar and dihedral joint brace. Top and bottom leading edge sheeting adds a tremendous amount of strength to the structure. It completes the "D" tube. Structurally it makes the wing able to carry the loads necessary .... When you apply the sheeting, make sure it makes a good joint contact with each rib top and bottom as well as the leading edge and main spar. If you look at it , when you glue this on the wing you're forming small rectangular compartments. If the sheeting is not completely in contact with the ribs and spars you'll not achieve maximum strength and most likely under high stress something is going to fail... My choice is to do bottom first, one side at a time, stabilize the wing on a flat surface keeping it from warping while everything is drying. Next do the top. You can use either CA or perhaps Titebond. The Titebond will give you time to adjust the balsa before it sets. Don't overload the joint with adhesive, use it sparing. More is not better. It's heavy but strong. Titebond takes about 24 hours to completely cure... don't rush you have plenty of time... Fuselage... Hmmm! Not difficult BUT it has it's own set of issues. It needs to be straight. Stabilize and pin it on a flat building board, if not it can come out looking like a banana! Given this banana geometry it will NOT fly straight... I built a 1/2 HOB P-51 and didn't follow my own advice, it came out looking like a P51 Banana! It should have been yellow instead of silver! Never did fly.... I finally built a new fuselage and it flies great. Keep it straight and take you time... Let me know if you have an questions. Sorry for the lengthy response... I hope you find some pearls of building wisdom.. Pickings are slim... Yes I'll be at the field on 2 October weather and wife permitting. Give me a call... 928.777.0951 Good luck, Ron
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