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Joined: 8/29/2004 From: Bolckow,
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You are correct. The red is power and the black is ground and yellow is video. When I was using mine I made my own four pin connector from and old computer and bypassed the wiring harness and it worked fine off my 9.6 volt pack.
< Message edited by randall1959 -- 10/7/2004 3:02:51 PM >
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Joined: 9/24/2004 From: Brook Park,
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Troglotech, Randall and I both have the same 800mw camera...so it looks like there is no regulator anywhere in the harness. Still, I'll just overview some stuff here to make sure I'm not missing something...
These darn "instructions" that came with the camera are junk. There are two listed 800mw models on the mini chart they gave, neither of which match the model number of mine. However, since they are both 800mw like mine I would assume they are similar. To confuse matters more the chart says "Wireless transmitter module", so I'm not sure if it's just refering to the TX or both it and the camera. One model lists DC+8V 200ma, and right below it DC+12v 200ma. The other model says DC+8V 250ma, and right below it DC+12V 250ma. So, assuming that this is the the power range for both the TX and camera they both should be comfortable being fed a range of 8 to 12V. Unless they mean camera 8V and TX 12v and not a power range for both. To muddy the waters even more the back of the TX says "9V". I can find no markings on the camera to indicate voltage.
The old harness had one 9V battery clip on it which (as said) as far as I can tell is feeding straight voltage with no drop to the red and black wire right before they enter the cam, same on the TX end. The yellow wire is of course video, and the fourth and final white wire is listed as audio. These are the only four wires going to the cam and the tx, so I would assume it's a safe bet that the white wire is indeed for audio (audio does work on it) and that it isn't being mixed via the yellow wire with the video, using white for some kind of regulated voltage (good idea...I'll double check the white against ground on the old harness to make sure it isn't a lower voltage supply). So, where are we at if all this holds true? I would think that I'd need a DC to DC voltage regulator with an input power range of something like 4.5v to around 10 or 12v, with a regulated output voltage of say 8 volts to 12v. To be safe and not fry something, I'd probably say the output voltage should be a constant 8v. Does this sound like I'm on the right track? If so, now I need to pin down a regulator with those specifications. You might have already supplied that above, skimmed over it. Will go back and take my time reading the thread. Now, if I can't find an 8V (output) regulator, would a 12V still be able to handle an input voltage in the range of 4.5 to 10V or so?
You've been more than patient with me and I thank you very much for that. Hopefuly I'll be off your back in a day or two. :')
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Joined: 9/8/2004 From: WhitehillHants, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
If I minded giving advice I wouldn't be on a Forum!
I still think the best plan is to use a DC to DC converter. However, they can be quite expensive for the wide range input types. We were quite lucky to find the one I specified at a reasonable price. I use a similar type with the same input range and I've just flown 4 batteries worth this evening without problems like popping the supply. I used 1 * 7.2V battery and 3 * 8.2V batteries and after reviewing the tape there is no noise and very few drop-outs (generally when directly over the whip aerial).
It would be important that the full setup fitted to your plane did not take more than 200mA in total or we will have to find a higher output type, unfortunately, these get proportionally more expensive and larger the more energy they are designed to supply. I feel that the one I have specified is the best we will find at a reasonable price, as long as the current demand is not excessive it will work fine.
I will be quite happy to help you further when you decide which way you want to go.........Tim....
In the same range of DC to DC converters is the NDY0509 which has the same input range (4.5V - 9V) but gives an output of 9V, unfortunately Newark don't show them on their web site. This would be a better bet if 12V is excessive. Have a search on the web or talk to Newark and see if they can supply them....
< Message edited by Troglotech -- 10/7/2004 11:55:39 PM >
I see mentioned putting the video RX/Antenna on top of a PVC pole....do you think it would be better than putting it on the top of a folding aluminum photo light stand as I have in this picture? Wonder if I lose picture quality with metal stand?
< Message edited by Skycam41 -- 10/8/2004 3:13:19 AM >
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The way yours is set up Mike, seems to be working very well for you so I wouldn't worry. I think it has more to do with the tx reacting to metal than it does the receiver. Besides, your receiver antenna is above the pole so I don't see any problems. Your videos are VERY good.
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You say "As long as the camera and TX inputs are regulated this circuit should do nicely", or words to that effect about the simple noise filtering circuit you posted. I might try this route. Exactly what did you mean by the above quote? I'm betting I can find those parts at Radio Shack for a quick try. Still, I would like to use a regulator as I'm afraid that the voltage drop as the flight battery discharges might cause the frequency output of the TX to drift. From the confusing specs on this camera, 12v MIGHT be it's maximum input but who's to say if that's what it means. So, I'd prefer to stay at the lower end of the scale in the 8 or 9 volt range...just in case the camera needs a lower voltage. I see you posted a part # for a 9v regulator. That's the one I'll try to find if the local parts store can't find me an 8v with the required specs you've provided for the regulator. If I fail at finding both I'll try a 12v as a last measure. Thanks again for that.
In the meantime I've been figuring out a better way to mount the camera. I created a small plastic "L" shaped bracket to use. This configuration provides several different positions to mount the camera using velcro. I also don't have to worry about creating some kind of wedge shaped part in order to tilt the camera with this method. Simply by positioning the L at a slight downward angle I can get the camera (also mounted to the L via velcro) to point down at whatever angle I need. It also permits mounting the camera pointing forward (and down), or straight out from the side of the plane. Another mounting position I can use with it (and think I'll try next) is mounting the camera on the canopy of the plane about half way down it. The natural curve of the noise should give me a good ground view. In all these positions the TX will probably stay mounted on the right side of the plane to counter the torque of the motor on takeoff (as you have done).
I noticed the audio wire coming out of the metal TX casing is bear and might ground out. Not good, so before I power this thing up again I need to open that TX box and fix any problems with the four wires coming out of it.
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Joined: 8/29/2004 From: Bolckow,
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Have you thought about trying the Draganfly website? They sell a camera for electrics and might have what you need as far as some sort of noise filter? I'm not much help with electrics and all the problems they are confronted with. My camera is on a gas plane and I haven't had noise issues.
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Joined: 9/8/2004 From: WhitehillHants, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
It is certainly worth a go because it's cheap and easy. What I meant by the comment was that I am presuming that the TX and camera have regulated inputs i.e. they can take an input from 7V to 12V or so. The regulators *should* remove the noise, but as you found, they didn't. I can only put this down to the input momentarily dropping below the regulator drop-out voltage (which is probably around 7V). The simple circuit should help by allowing the dips to be 'ignored' and the power supplied by the capacitor during the dips. I was quite suprised by how far these dips went below the battery voltage even when measured at the battery connector. Although the average current is around 3A - 5A the transient current demand is much higher and it is that that causes the dips.
To allow the circuit to work the capacitor must be large enough (have a high enough capacitance) to supply both TX and camera during the dips. The diode is there to 'disconnect' the power during the dips. The downside is that the diode drops the voltage even lower by around 0.7V. As I said, it might work, and for a Dollar or so it's very cheap. As already said, I prefer the DC to DC converter method just because it was so simple and cheap, provides regulation and will keep going even when the battery has drained to the point the ESC turns off.
If you can order from Mouser.com then they are available from them:
The 'Velcro' method is highly recommended! It is very interesting trying the camera at different angles... Straight ahead is great for those low passes, taking off and landing, brilliant when watched full-screen! Up in the air though, the straight-forward position gives too much sky, this tends to make the ground too dark, but if you like clouds great! Pointing straight down gives perfect, but boring pictures, the ground gets smaller...it gets bigger...you land! The best compromise, I found, was at around 45 Degrees, quite a bit of sky when climbing but as soon as you level out all you get is ground, great pictures and you can see for miles...great fun. I've just been reviewing the picures from yesterday trying to see where my Commander landed (fly away into the woods)...still can't find it though. I hope you get your system up and running because it is great fun to relive the flights from the comfort of your PC.
P.S. Those Challengers are tough! Lost orientation from way up and it screamed into the ground with a sickening thud.......then the 'long walk' to see what was broken (when I did less to the Commander the motor ended up half way down the fuse). The battery had ejected (even though the canopy was banded up) the fuse was splayed out at the front, the canopy was broken at the hinge but everything else was fine. I was very glad that I had carried out all the mods (stiffened tail, tie-wrapped motor and boom). Stuffed a new battery in it (a bit floppy as the foam had been badly compressed), banded the canopy back on and off it went again! Needed a bit of trimming but I flew a couple more batteries with no problems, and the camera survived fine (great video of the ground coming up very quickly)........Tim.....
< Message edited by Troglotech -- 10/8/2004 6:25:17 PM >
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Joined: 9/8/2004 From: WhitehillHants, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Hey Randall. Fortunately I didn't have the gear on when the Commander dissapeared! So I've been flying my new Challenger over there to have a look...can't see it yet. I'll get better at flying low over the woods after a few goes and get a better look! Although I'll probably end up with both planes in the woods knowing my luck! Picture shows they edge of the woods where it went in, taken yesterday....Tim...
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A quick update on the electronics and then a story from yesterday. I can't find the regulator or the diode for the noise filter at local stores, so I'll order it all from the suppliers you listed. I'll get the 9v regulator and try that first. If it doesn't solve the problem I'll also install the noise filter circuit along with it. One quick question...do I have to put capacitors on this regulator to get it to work as I see some mention of that for certain ones? If so, a quick schematic for idiots like me would be welcome. I'll order that stuff this week.
Anyway, took the camera and plane out for a spin yesterday. I wanted to try my new camera mount...this time with the cam halfway down the nose on the canopy pointing forward and downward somewhat. The TX was placed under the wing above the x-port and a little further back (about below the middle of the wing). Since video would be useless until I cut the motor, I wanted to get the plane real high and then glide with the motor off for as long as possible. It was windy out but the plane launched well. The new TX and camera mount must have been working well as the plane didn't want to dip left or right on me. However, climbing was real slow at full throttle (not to mention fighting a head wind). After about two or three minutes of slow climbing I realized that an adjustment to the climb rate trim was in order. Using the slider trim adjustment on the controller I cranked it all the way to the climb your *ss off" furthest position. Now the plane was climbing better without me having to use the actual control strick (as it should do at full throttle). Anyway, a few minutes later and the plane is nearing the height I wanted. The wind was giving me some problems. Just when I've got the plane about where I wanted it to cut the engine it starts dipping and turning to the left on me. For a few seconds I was confused at this and thought I might have lost engine power, but as the wing folded I realized the cause. Down she comes in a fast spiral. I cut off the motor as it fell and this is the only video I got on tape at the RX...a spinning ground coming up real fast. The camera was fine, thank God...although it nosed in so hard that the plastic mount I made had snapped in
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RE: Cam For Aerobird Challenger On The Way (Many Plane ... - 
