Glassed the top of the wing and elevator stab this evening.
Went on very well again, I'm still concerned about the best way to fill the weave, another thin coat of epoxy using a credit card, or filler primer...any suggestions ?????
Posts: 155
Joined: 9/22/2002 From: Wabash, IN, Status: offline
Lee Did you put the 1/2" dowel into the leading edge of the ailerons per the addendum? How did it come out? I am at that stage now and just want to see what to expect with the process.
I haven't as yet, thats the next job after priming the wings. Like you I am a bit unsure but I think I have got my head round it now. It will be done over the next few days so I'll get back here and post pics.
I also would prefer a different fixing other than a metal thread, but can't figure one out.
Posts: 868
Joined: 3/12/2004 From: ChelmsfordESSEX, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Hi Heliraptor,
The best way to fill the weave when glassing is by using a mix epoxy and Microbaloons,Depending on your finish it might take two coats ,thats the way I do it on all my jets.
Funnily enough I emailed you a little while ago about that, I'd like to meet you down there, have nothing to fly I'm afraid, but will bring the trusty video
The weave isn't that bad, so I may just try filler primer, I think it will be lighter than more epoxy, especailly after I've rubbed it back again. I'll do a test on the tail and see how it goes.
Posts: 155
Joined: 9/22/2002 From: Wabash, IN, Status: offline
Went ahead and installed the dowels into the ailerons, not a bad job. When I drew the line back from the servo arm it intersected right between the hinge and the metal weights. The leading edge is just thick enough so the 1/2" hole only recesses the leading edge about an 1/8". Thank god for the trusty Sear's bench sander, I would have hated to shape the dowels by hand. Left the dowels sticking out about 1/4" from the leading edge so they can be shaped to the leading edge's contour.
Managed to get a lttle more done, rubbed down the elevator, and laid a coat of primer down so its easier to see the lumps and bumps , very pleased actually, came out pretty smooth, there is a little weave showing and a few very small areas that need attention but overall its done.
Just need to rub the primer back to glass in the centre section in prepration for gluing into the fuse, but decided it was easier to prep it flat rather than already glued in place.
Look forward to doing the wing which at first glance won't be so easy to do. I'm still considering laying a second coat of resin down but don'w want to add unecessary weight, by the time I've rubbed it down some more, primed it up, marked it out and primed the panel lines in, it should be filled in anyway.
Can't wait to get the belly pan fitted and the wing primed up, I can then concentrate on the fuse, trouble is work is hectic, working on the house too, Xmas is a coming, kids parties and plays and with very little workspace, it's hard to get things done. Wouldn't change it for the world though.
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Joined: 8/22/2003 From: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA Status: offline
I am getting a friend to paint my P47. He is planning to use Mercury 330 undercoat or primer on the fiberglass fuse of the plane but he says that in the past the undercoat lifts of the fuse. It does not bind to the fiberglass well. Is that true and what undercoat should I use? Do you have to prepare the fiberglass fuse in some way first before you apply the undercoat? He tells me he can not guarantee that the primer and paint will not flack in the hot sun.
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Joined: 4/1/2003 From: Springfield, VA, Status: offline
I painted my Yellow Spitfire with Krylon primer from a spray can and it worked fine. The paint has not lifted off at all. Make sure you WASH THE GLASS with soap and water BEFORE you primer it. The soap and water removes the mold release that is on the fiber glass.
Sorry no updates for a while, I managed to get the wing primed up over the past few days. hardest bit as always was the prep and you can never see the true finish unitl you get a coat on.
The biggest pain is the joint between the fibreglass end caps and the wing tip, just hard to sand flush as the fibreglass sinks, then lifts up causing a slight ridge. Nearly there now though.
Needs a wet sand now, maybe another thin coat of primer, and another sand prior to panel lines, rivets and raised panels etc.
Having built a few Scale Helis in the past the fuse will need a good wash and sanding to provide a good key for the paint, the joint lines will also have to be filled.
I have yet to install the Elevator and Belly pan, this I'll do in the next few days if the time permits.
Well grabbed a bit of time today, glued in the wing dowels (Wood with an alloy sleeve - see it in the second picture through the vent) and began the fitting of the belly pan getting it all flush, I wanted to glue it down, but unfortunately didn't have the correct wing bolts handy Oh well that will come another day.
I also worked on the horizontal stab, got that trimmed out and glued in, cleaned the primer off the parts that were being glued, used 30 minute epoxy, then when that had gone off worked form the inside and laid a thick bead filled with micro balloons to really strengthen the joint.
Job tomorrow is final fitting of the elevator and rudder, then they will be primed and ready to fit.
Quick question for those that have experience with this model.
When fitting the control surfaces, how close should they be to the mounting surface, i.e the gap between the aileron and the wing, elevator and horizontal stab, rudder and vertical stab.
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RE: Yellow P47 Build up - 
Oh well that will come another day.