90 Degree Muffler Adapter Seller:RC Specialties Details:
$17.95
| 10/31/2008
| Classified Ad
We will rotate YOUR AD in this spot if you select "Forum Featured" when placing or editing your ad!
Posts: 435
Joined: 7/20/2004 From: HIGHLAND,
CA, USA Status: offline
I have several old K&B engines that I sort of inherited. A .25, .28, .35 Stallion and a .40 Torpedo. They all look fairly good so my question is, does anybody out there have any manuals/instructions or can you give me advice as what type fuel and how to proceed. K&B/Mecoa was no help. Dave
< Message edited by tucker1865 -- 10/22/2004 12:31:59 AM >
Posts: 801
Joined: 10/26/2002 From: Flushing,
MI, USA Status: offline
Nitro-Don't over nitro these engines it doesn't help. Run no more than 15% preferably 10%. Oil-Ringed engines with ball bearings can use synthetic or synthetic/castor mix. Non ringed engines and bushed should use mainly castor.
Posts: 3278
Joined: 10/10/2002 From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA Status: online
For the Stallion 35 use at least 25% all castor (iron piston). The Torpedo 40 uses a Dykes ring so don't be too concerned if it feels like it hasn't got too much compression.
Posts: 435
Joined: 7/20/2004 From: HIGHLAND,
CA, USA Status: offline
Here is the dilema, everyone within a 50 mile radius only sells powermaster. If I order from Sig, the HasMat charge for shipping is an additional 20.00, making a gallon cost upwards of 46.00. One hobby shop said they could order 5% nitro-29%castor but it could take 3 weeks or longer. They sell 10%nitro - 18% oil, 2/3 synthetic and 1/3 castor, which would be 6% castor. My question would be, could I add castor to this mix to come up with a suitable fuel, or will I have to mix my own fuel. Same charge with Fox and I don't believe K&B sells fuel any more.
Posts: 5
Joined: 3/26/2004 From: caldwell,
ID, USA Status: offline
Hello, When I worked at K&B in '89 , I was using Powermaster fuel. Powermaster was a new comer at that time. The factory was in Santa Fe Springs And the Owner gave me several gallons of Powermaster 15%. I still use their fuel. The Stallion engine does need exta castor though. 4 oz. to a gallon should be safe. Hope this helps, Daniel
Posts: 1821
Joined: 1/24/2002 From: Deland,
FL, USA Status: offline
You can mod your fuels by adding a suitable amount of oil to get the %% you want. Just make sure you get the oil dispersed throughout the fuel. Check for collected oil before flying. I would think the ride to the field should take care of it though.
On a related note: From what I have seen around RCU somewhere, (the jets section I think) - the secret miracle oil to make engines last is turbine oil. The stuff is formulated for super-high temps and doesn't break down when your motor overheats. I've read that some guys are using regular sport fuel with 2 oz/gal of turbine fuel for their ducted fans and having excellent engine life. Discuss....
Posts: 104
Joined: 7/13/2002 From: Kirksville,
MO, USA Status: offline
hey Tucker I run several K&B 40s with sig 10% castor oil factory mix. All of them are the old 8011 series bushed engines dykes ring and they have and are running well. Do Not run them to lean!!! Lean runs can destroy the seteal in the ring and you wil need to replace it and possibly the piston. I have ran thm on Quickee 500 with 20% but they are really not designed for that, my opinion. Good luck
Posts: 20269
Joined: 11/10/2002 From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL, USA Status: offline
K&B made (makes) two series ringed 40 engines. Both are Dykes ringed, so the low speed compression seems low. Both series are loop scavenged,
The 8xxx series used the smaller front ball bearing, the 4xxx uses the lareger.
The 8xxx were made with two sizes carb mounting bore, all the 4xxx use the larger.
The 8xxx engined were supplied with Perry carbs first, later ones had an Irvine carb, then the K&B "Block" carb. The 4xxx engines all were (are) supplied with the K&B "Ribbed" carb.
The hottest of the 40 engines was the 8360 version, supplied with a large bore Perry "Pump" carb and the Perry pump built into the back plate. This model was known as the "Q40," and while it is now out dated it will still move your pylon plane at a good speed.
First picture shows the two different 8xxx engines, the 83xx with the large carb bore on the left, early 80xxon the right.
Second picture has the 8350 "Normal" engine on the right, the 8360 Q40 on the left. Carb size difference is obvious, the 8360 also has the Perry pump, not visible in the picture.
The third picture shows the 8350 on the left with the "Block" carb, and the 4011 with the "Ribbed" carb on the right. The difference in the front bearing size is obvious.
Finally, four 83xx engines, the two on the right are the 8360 "Q40" pumped versions.
Bill.
_____________________________
Real Airplanes have Two Engines AMA 25139 - More than 40 years.
Posts: 435
Joined: 7/20/2004 From: HIGHLAND,
CA, USA Status: offline
William...which, in your opinion, carb is the best, I have all three and two, near mint 40's and a couple that are used. The Irvine carb looks much like the perry, is it any good. Also have a new 6550 K&B .61 I was thinking of sending to Clarence Lee for his modification and putting on a pump and perry carb.
Posts: 801
Joined: 10/26/2002 From: Flushing,
MI, USA Status: offline
Might I make a suggestion? The twist outperforms a C. Lee modified 6550 engine. The cost of the pump and pump carb and the modification are as much or more than the twist. Why bother? All the 8xxx and 4xxx engines with a pump and pump carb that I owned can't turn with my stock 4050 engines. I have thought of stripping the pump and pump carb from one of my other engines and trying them on one of my 4050s to see if it turned up even better. Sheldons Hobbies is clearing out 4050s at $74.95. That seems to be less investment in time and money than modifying an existing engine.
IMO: Perry-very good Perry pump- very good Irvine-medeocre Block-very bad Finned-good
Posts: 20269
Joined: 11/10/2002 From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL, USA Status: offline
Tucker:
Mike Sell has made some good points.
If you had the 6560 engine, already with the Perry carb and pump, I'd say you might like to try the Lee PDP conversion, costs about $25, that would give you the approximate equivalent of the Twister with the sport muffler, model #6170. But since yours is the 6550 I have to agree with Mike Sell. More sensible just to get the #6150 Twister, with even more power.
The latest rumors I've heard say the Twister is to be discontinued, and all the porting mods done to the 65xx engines, then the normal looking engine will have the Twister power. Nothing definite on that yet.
The Perry carb is the classic "Super" carb, it still sets the standard for all other makers to emulate. There is a moderately steep learning curve for adjusting them, the only bad point about a Perry.
The K&B "Ribbed" carb is one of the very few that rival the Perry, it's a rework on the basic Perry design, and a lot easier to adjust. It is made in both front mounted and remote needle.
I suppose I'm one of the few who have never had a problem with the K&B "Block" carb, it's an ordinary two needle unit, I'm currently flying several with no trouble. Your results may vary.
Avoid the Irvine carb. Like the Perry it has a plastic body, but unlike the Perry, the Irvine carb has been known to self destruct in mid flight. Provided a critical piece doesn't fall off while it's still on the ground. POS.
Attached picture shows all the carbs except the Irvine. Top pair is Perrys, with the "Pump" carb on the left. The pump carb is truly that much larger, with a larger bore to match. See the picture with an earlier post. Middle row is the "Block" carbs, most have "K/B" milled into the front, on the left is an unmarked example. The same earlier post has a picture of a 61 in service with this carb. Bottom row has the front needle "Ribbed" on the left, the remote version on the right.
Mike:
I've also thought about stripping an 8360 to benefit a 4050, but I use the 8xxx and 4011 engines as sport power units, for the "GoFaster" planes I generally use Magnum 2s and Saito 4s engines. If you do one I'd like to know your results.
Bill.
PS: Sorry, the picture of the 61 is in a different thread. Edited to add another here. And as shown, I'm also using a DuBro fuelling valve on it with no trouble. wr.
Printable Version
All Forums >> Glow Engines, Gas Engines, Fuel & Mfg Support Forums >> Glow Engines >> Old K&B Engines 
Old K&B Engines - 
Good luck
