kram-RCU
Posts: 484
Joined: 10/6/2002
From: ames, IA,
Status: offline
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Warbirds look better and fly better with the wheels up.
However, any individual's flyer's transition to retracts is often "bumpy" and expensive. I have a "chaos theory" that probability of aircraft annihilation is relative to unfamiliarity with the type of plane, and unfamiliarity with the mechanical systems on board, so if you start out landing a type of plane you're new to (warbird) on a new type of gear (retracts), then the odds of a bad outcome go up quite a bit.
Even at big warbird meets with smooth runways and professionally built planes and highly skilled pilots, it seems like 90% of the "problems" (everything from skinned bellies to re-kitting) are due to retracts and the dozens of ways that they can malfunction.
Your comment about the "very bumpy" field is bothersome. Retracts will fly OK off grass, but any set has its limits.
As a flyer who has gone through the transition, I'd advise you to go one of two directions:
1) Start with small, cheap warbirds with small, cheap mechanical or spring-air retracts till you get comfortable with the technique, the technology. If you mess up, then at least you don't have a lot of $'s on the line. World Models makes a series of small ARF warbirds in which small, cheap mechanical gear is included. Replacement sets cost only $20. I found them to be fun and easy to use on a "moderately bumpy" grass field and easy to replace...kept a couple of spare sets around all the time. Be careful...I think their .60 size planes have the same gear as the .40 size. I think the gear was OK for the smaller size, but pushin' it for .60's on grass.
2) But you know this craving for warbirds is not gonna stop till you get some big smokin' bandido with a 100" wingspan and a big loud gas engine, or even worse, TWO big loud gassers. If you're resigned to such a fate, then be forewarned that a good set of air-driven gear, by the time you add it all up will run $400 and up....way up. In my opinion, Robart is the standard of quality for that kind of gear, although Sierra is better, if you can get 'em, and other small custom guys do a good job. Bottom line is if you think you got a really good, cheap deal all you really got was cheap. Century Jet is a big name that a lot of guys badmouth because of lesser quality control, but other guys get along with. I'd have to count myself in the former group. Even with the good brands, the more complex the mechanism, the higher the chance of malfunction, ie twisting, rotating, tucking, even gear bay doors should be avoided.
On the up side, the bigger the plane, the bigger the gear, the bigger the wheels, and hence, the less relative effect of a bumpy field.
Robart has a huge selection of gear, and my strategy on grass has always been to choose a set designed for a plane heavier than mine. For example, if my plane is expected to weigh 15#, I order a set of gear designed for >18#, and if it detracts a little from scale, then so be it. Gotta make sure it fits in your plane, though!
Order your gear early. Even big companies like Robart can have delays of 2-3 months and the small guys are worse.
On the more minute scale of advice:
a) make sure you Loctite those little needles that control flow rate through the retract valve, and:
b) make sure your cats don't have access to your air lines.
c) always have a plan in the back of your mind: "What would I do if my gear didn't work?" I presented a funny (if it wasn't you) riddle on Twin Forums a coupla months ago when a P-38 gear malfunctioned and I didn't have a plan.
OUCH !!
mt
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> 2 Retract or not to Retract !!!!!!!! 
2 Retract or not to Retract !!!!!!!! - 
, i agree it just doesnt look the same without and i am starting with 40 Sized Warbirds and will have to stick to those until my car grows bigger as i cant get anything bigger than a 65" Wingspan in 
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