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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/2/2004 1:10 PM   
cfetter79


 

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Status: offline 		Looks like I'm gonna have to order one. I have the RR stuff from the clutch back, so I guess this is the next step. My AE .15 seems to be putting out pretty good power. A guy at the LHS said the motors were made my OS, is this true?

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/2/2004 1:12 PM   
Nitro Rustler Racer



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Status: offline 		i am askin the same question, i keep on reading that O.S makes traxxas engines AE and other companys

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/2/2004 1:25 PM   
Fantom_15_GT


 

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/2/2004 1:49 PM   
Frost_



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Nitro Rustler Racer

ummmmmmm, i heard it from my lhs, this guy was buying that same clutch and he asked,"Does it make radio interference?" and the guy sid"yes" thats where i heard it


Well some people might actually find out for themselves if something they are told is true before they repeat it making themselves look foolish and adding ignorance to those who, like yourself, also do not know.

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/2/2004 1:52 PM   
Memopad


 

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/2/2004 3:16 PM   
RayRayraycer20



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Status: offline 		Hey frost,
those should fit on the evader right.? stock dtx.18...

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/2/2004 3:31 PM   
Frost_



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Status: offline 		Nah sorry, the pin spacing for one, is tighter on the flywheel than the dtx's... If you want an aluminum clutch though (if you are still running that tall-@$$ 20+ tooth CB you NEED alum.) I am pretty sure I have a few #s that will fit the Evader in a text file but it's at home.... I'll let you know this evening.

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/2/2004 8:26 PM   
RayRayraycer20



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Status: offline 		Thanks man...
I am still runnin the 20t Bell. Just burned up My idler gear....Waitin' on my tower order....
Any tips would be appreaciated. Do you know what amsterdam is runnin'??
I want to get away from stock.

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/2/2004 8:36 PM   
Frost_



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Status: offline 		Yep....
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD217&P=7



If you want to run this lemme know first, there are a few TINY changes you have to make to the shoes and springs. The amazing thing is, this ENTIRE setup is about 13 bucks!



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< Message edited by Frost_ -- 11/2/2004 8:37 PM >

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/3/2004 12:29 AM   
AJ DRAGON


 

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I don't think you have to weary about it making radio interference. If anything was going to make radio interference it would have bin the RRP steal spur & CB set up but they don't.

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/3/2004 1:21 AM   
FLFlyboy


 

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Status: offline 		frost would that fit the st-15.

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/3/2004 1:56 AM   
Frost_



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quote:

ORIGINAL: FLFlyboy

frost would that fit the st-15.

No if you mean the aluminum clutch. Yes if you mean that duratrax setup.

< Message edited by Frost_ -- 11/3/2004 1:58 AM >

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/3/2004 3:32 AM   
FLFlyboy


 

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Status: offline 		is that picture the duratrax setup.

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/4/2004 3:00 AM   
RayRayraycer20



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Status: offline 		Thank you.... I would like to give it a shot....Tiny changes....Pm' Me
quote:

ORIGINAL: Frost_

Yep....
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD217&P=7



If you want to run this lemme know first, there are a few TINY changes you have to make to the shoes and springs. The amazing thing is, this ENTIRE setup is about 13 bucks!




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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/4/2004 3:57 AM   
Frost_



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Status: offline 		I started to Pm you, but I thought I'd post it here in case anyone else wants to run this setup... For 12 bucks it's hard to pass up, especially if you are running a non-stock engine and/or a large clutch bell.

The spring's geometry is just plain wrong for the channels cut in the shoes. If you run the springs the way they are, they are LONGER than the shoes and they will ride high and hit the bell. Use a nice set of linesman's pliers or whatever you use to cut something like this. Keep in mind that they are steel and if you use your trusty wire strippers you will probably makes rough spots on it. Use a good tool. Cut the springs at approximately where I have drawn the red lines. Stay conservative if you are unsure; you will know if you need to take more off after putting them on... you want them to obviously stay below the contact patch. I have put 2 of these setups on engines, it really isn't bad...



Many trucks like the ST-15 need nothing else at all. The Evader's stock bell (and you big one if the inside diameter is the same as stock) is a TIGHT fit. You need to rub the shoes down JUST A BIT to get the clearance you need. Assemble everything onto the engine (with the engine out) and you have several options from here... If you have a steasy hand you can run around the shoes with a sanding drum on your dremel. Look from the front, you can see where the shoes are high. The best and easiest way is to use emery cloth but a strip of sandpaper work well too. Hang the paper around the shoes contact patch in a U and pull the ends back and forth and you get nice even material removal. There really isn't much that needs to come off, the ends are just kinda high.

It goes really quickly, there isn't much to it and the hold is GREAT when compared to a stock 2 shoe setup.

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< Message edited by Frost_ -- 11/4/2004 4:01 AM >

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/4/2004 7:14 AM   
snowball1288


 

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Status: offline 		so just to check before i place an order....

DTX .18 Engine + DTX 4 Shoe Clutch (w/modifications) + Custom Bell = Fast, working Evader? or Large, expensive paperwieght?

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/4/2004 9:59 PM   
RayRayraycer20



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Status: offline 		Thanks for the tip's Frost....It is much appreaciated.

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/5/2004 2:28 AM   
FLFlyboy


 

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Status: offline 		frost what would that do for the st-15.

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/5/2004 3:08 AM   
AJ DRAGON


 

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Status: offline 		Frost how well have those clutch shoes bin holding up. Have you had any problems with them waring out or tearing up the CB. I thinking about getting some next mounth.

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/5/2004 3:42 AM   
Frost_



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quote:

ORIGINAL: FLFlyboy

frost what would that do for the st-15.


Not much if you are running the stock engine. Maybe a little, but the stock engine isn't exactly stressing the stock clutch...







quote:

ORIGINAL: AJ DRAGON

Frost how well have those clutch shoes bin holding up. Have you had any problems with them waring out or tearing up the CB. I thinking about getting some next mounth.


They look great, I just set them back up in the trailing edge (normal) setup because they bit SO HARD... The CB is a Robinson Racing steel hardened bell... I don't think you have anything to worry about against something as soft as aluminum.

I'm glad you found them, they are EXACTLY what I needed...

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/5/2004 2:50 PM   
FLFlyboy


 

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Status: offline 		yeah i geuss that would be a waste unless i had a engine upgrade the stock clutch is working really well after i drilled it out i put four holes in each shoe works real fast.

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/6/2004 6:08 PM   
snowball1288


 

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Status: offline 		nobody answered my question ... lol

I wanted to double check that these parts will work together before i buy them:

The DTX .18 Stock Engine + Duratrax 4 shoe clutch kit (with those modifications frost showed) + Custom ClutchBell from Dynotech

Will these all work together?

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/7/2004 1:26 AM   
BigGrump


 

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Status: offline 		Frost.......

I have a question for you. In the MIP clutch shoes or you new aluminum ones, did you try or did you use the steel weights that come with the MIP clutch shoes? I (three days ago) put a new O.S. .18 engine in my RC10 GT with 18 tooth clutch bell and MIP 4-1 clutch shoes. Standard trailing position with steel weights inserted in the shoes. Break in went great, cool clutch bell. Started tuneing for power and noticed it would wheelie but after some use and clutch got a chance to heat up seemed like less wheelie. I don't think it is tire slip but could be wrong. Did notice clutch bell was too hot to touch but not turning blue.

Tonight I turned the shoes around for leading edge with steel weights inserted. Haven't had a chance to try it yet.

So...... Did you try the steel weights that go in the empty holes in the shoes and also does the aluminum clutch shoes come with weights?

Last........ Since you changed the aluminum shoes to trailing, have you gone back to overheating the clutch bell or not?

Thanks..

Dennis

< Message edited by BigGrump -- 11/7/2004 1:27 AM >

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/7/2004 1:59 AM   
Frost_



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quote:

ORIGINAL: BigGrump

Frost.......

I have a question for you. In the MIP clutch shoes or you new aluminum ones, did you try or did you use the steel weights that come with the MIP clutch shoes? I (three days ago) put a new O.S. .18 engine in my RC10 GT with 18 tooth clutch bell and MIP 4-1 clutch shoes. Standard trailing position with steel weights inserted in the shoes. Break in went great, cool clutch bell. Started tuneing for power and noticed it would wheelie but after some use and clutch got a chance to heat up seemed like less wheelie. I don't think it is tire slip but could be wrong. Did notice clutch bell was too hot to touch but not turning blue.

Tonight I turned the shoes around for leading edge with steel weights inserted. Haven't had a chance to try it yet.

So...... Did you try the steel weights that go in the empty holes in the shoes and also does the aluminum clutch shoes come with weights?

Last........ Since you changed the aluminum shoes to trailing, have you gone back to overheating the clutch bell or not?

Thanks..

Dennis


I ran my MIP in all four configurations... For the first four tanks (the clutch called for this "breakin" period of it's own) it slipped alot and then it began to grab a bit... I got wheelies like you said but after a very short time this gave gave way to MASSIVE slipping... Even when they were seeming to "hold" the heat generated from slipping SERIOUSLY discolored my CB. I have pics in a thread here if you dig back a bit...

It isn't tire slip, that clutch just can't hold the torque and it is fading...

I ran the new shoes in the direction that would be considered backwards from stock... The aluminum clutch grabbed just off idle with NO slipping... I reversed them the other day and WOW, I have it back times 10 on the bottom end...

I was out with it today, running the RR hardened spur and an 18 tooth bell no matter how I sat the suspension I couldn't get it out of the hole without spinning. I am running Road Rage IIs on clean asphalt. I know it would have toppled over but you just cannot believe the difference it makes to have 1:1 engagement of the clutch. The truck hits top-end with this tall gear in NO TIME. It SERIOUSLY spins the back tires from a stop on asphalt. These Road Rage IIs hook up about as well as any street tires that I've seen too.

Another thing... buy extra clutch bearings, the heat the MIP generates slipping is going to seriously affect your bearing life.

I LOVE this clutch, if you are running that OS 18 eventually you will see, this is your only real AND best choice. Best $ spent so far, I couldn't be happier...


-EDIT-

Oh yeah, the Al. doesn't come with weights and doesn't need them....

Go here and look at these pics of my CB after only 3 or 4 tanks... CRAZY. : http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2145552

< Message edited by Frost_ -- 11/7/2004 2:08 AM >

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RE: No More PUNY MIP GT Clutch... - 11/7/2004 2:53 AM   
snowball1288


 

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anyone? I feel like im being ignored!! lol

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