Posts: 1823
Joined: 8/22/2002 From: Evans,
CO, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Scoubidou
Looks good!
Where is your CG with rudder servo installed at that location?
I havent got to that yet. I went with the CF tail wheel assembly and H-stab tube, with the DA on the front. going to mount the H-stabes and linkage now.
Posts: 61
Joined: 7/6/2003 From: Johnson City,
NY, USA Status: offline
Is that the painted gear that WH sells or did you paint the aluminum gear? I'm thinking of getting the painted composite gear but I'm wondering, is the bolt pattern the same? I got my Edge and DA in the mail last week, you are further along than me . Lookin good!
Posts: 1823
Joined: 8/22/2002 From: Evans,
CO, USA Status: offline
Get the painted gear! once you hold it in your hand you will be glad you did!
quote:
ORIGINAL: Gumby2!
Is that the painted gear that WH sells or did you paint the aluminum gear? I'm thinking of getting the painted composite gear but I'm wondering, is the bolt pattern the same? I got my Edge and DA in the mail last week, you are further along than me . Lookin good!
Posts: 12049
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
The painted fiberglass gear that Tom sells for his planes have ALL the holes pre-drilled in all the right places. On the 28% planes, the weight difference between C/F gear and Toms' was something like an ounce or less. For the difference in strength, go with Tom's 'glass gear if you want to use gear other than the aluminum gear. Tom's is much better than the c/f, IMO.
_____________________________
If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Posts: 931
Joined: 7/27/2002 From: Omaha, NE, USA Status: offline
I have the aluminum gear on mine and with the DA up front I have 2 1400 nicads over the gear to get it to balance on the aft limit. Your going to need to plan where to put your batteries up front to get yours to balance with the lighter glass gear.
Posts: 1823
Joined: 8/22/2002 From: Evans,
CO, USA Status: offline
My balance came out at 4.75" with the battery's at the forward edge of the middle tray. I do have the throttle and choke servos in the front. as soon as I can find a 9V battery I will post the weight.
< Message edited by mstroh3961 -- 11/5/2004 4:45:54 AM >
Posts: 1249
Joined: 2/24/2004 From: Jacksonville,
NC, USA Status: offline
Hey mstroh3961.. Do you all do your first flights with the cowl off for ease of adjustment/observation? I always do on my big glow planes but with a gasser there seems to be a lot of stuff hangin in the wind... Just curious.. I am awaiting my DA from WH.. Should be any day now ..
Posts: 12049
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
The stuff hanging out isn't any problem. You should secure all the wires at a mid point or so to keep them from flopping around in the cowl anyway. You also want to limit the amount of flexing that may take place at a connector to prevent the wire ends from pulling out or breaking. Especially at the ignition connections!
Another thought for you guys new to gassers, make certain that the plug wire, even the metal shielded kind, isn't rubbing against the cut enges of a fiberglass cowl. The glass will shred a plug wire in fairly short order.
_____________________________
If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Posts: 1249
Joined: 2/24/2004 From: Jacksonville,
NC, USA Status: offline
Thanx for the tips.. I might as well take the cowl off for the first flights.. I hope she is easy to tune.. I do know to tighten/check the prop nuts often during the first few runs/flights..
Posts: 1823
Joined: 8/22/2002 From: Evans,
CO, USA Status: offline
I protetced the plug wire with a rubber grommet. I driled a hole where the plug wire would hang straight down from the side of the engine box, to keep it as far away from the muffler as posible. I used a 3/8 rubber grommet, and split one side so it would fit around the wire. after drilling the hole in the cowl, I made cut from the hole to the edge of the engine cut out for the wire. Use a small piece of light plywood to reinforce where I made the cut.
I used MS paint to modify this cowl picture. the black is the hole and slice, dark blue is the ply reinforcement, and lite blue are the servo screws atatching the wood. sorry for the fuzzy imiage. I ain't minnflyer
< Message edited by mstroh3961 -- 11/10/2004 6:33:17 AM >
Posts: 931
Joined: 7/27/2002 From: Omaha, NE, USA Status: offline
THis is a simple and effective way to protect the plug wire from the edge of the cowl rubbing through it due to vibration...
Go to the nearest auto parts store and buy a couple of feet of 1/8" black rubber vacume hose. When you get it home take a razor blade or xacto blade and split one side of it lengthwise from one end to the other. Next take the split tubing and force the split edge over the edge of the hole you want to line, in this case around the cylindar head, push it down all around the hole and cut it off so the ends meet up. To hold it on just apply a bead of thin CA around on the inside of the cowl, gluing the tubing to the inside(not the outside) of the cowl. Think of it as one big custom made rubber grommet.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic >> WildHare R/C Support >> Edge 540T (FINISHED) 
Edge 540T (FINISHED) - 
. Lookin good! 
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