RE: Official Mayhem Thread

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/22/2005 6:58 PM

gdc02

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some fine results now

< Message edited by gdc02 -- 4/22/2005 7:42 PM >

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/23/2005 6:08 AM

leejax02

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I found the answer to the pulsing brakes and ut being applied on throttle while driving. The screws that attach the brake cams to diff housing was way too tight. i assume that it should be as tight as the previous brakes. The buggy now rolls free and that is why the clutch was overheating(323 degrees with temp gun) because of extra drag in driveline. It now rolls free and holds well.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/23/2005 6:26 PM

leejax02

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I had a chance to actually try it out and got the clutch temp to 230 which seems about right, and I also installed the mugen clutch shoes with the gray Ofna springs and it seems to be stiffer than stock, but seems o.k. . This seems to be a really tuff buggy, but i have a little chassis flex. is it common with most buggies? It flexes at the center diff housing. Stiffeners were tight and in place. It takes a bit of force to make it flex, so it may be acceptable.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/24/2005 11:53 PM

burnt3d

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ok.... i was going to buy the new xb8 r kit but its ging to cost way too much for what im going to use it for. im going to buy the mayhem rtr. is there an upgrade so i can get rid of the e-clips? also, what should i upgrade first? any weak points? and should i buy the rtr or the arr pro? any big differences? thanks...tim

< Message edited by burnt3d -- 4/24/2005 11:56 PM >

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/25/2005 4:48 AM

phishrfriend

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If you are just going to be bashing get the RTR, the .26 motor really screams once you get it dialed in. If you plan on doing some racing you'd be better off getting the Pro ARR with the .21 motor. I bought a RTR and I've already started upgrading with pro parts. If i knew then what I do now i would have bought the pro from the start and just picked up a nice JR XS3 radio system off ebay.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/25/2005 11:55 AM

gdc02

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xb8R : 490.00
e-clips are no problem on the mayhem
better choose a Pro kit if you want to upgrade afterwards

pro does have mid driveshafts cvd not dogbones
4 mm shocktowers (but there are new 5mm ones now available)
and other items better finished
and motor sits lower but with starterbox

< Message edited by gdc02 -- 4/25/2005 12:07 PM >

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/25/2005 7:48 PM

lcalton

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leejax - I've noticed this also. I causes the clutch bell gear to move back and forth relative to the spur gear. When I put a steel straight edge along the bottom of the chassis, there's about a 3/32" drop from one end to the other. I've also had to elongate the rear body mounting hole forward about an 1/8" because the car has apparently "bowed up" enough to shorten the relative distance between the body mounting studs. I don't do jumps either!? Been trying to see how I could fabricate a stiffener to basically go from front to rear and attach to the existing stiffener mounts. Anyone ever heard of such a thing?

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/25/2005 9:39 PM

mhood

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ok-- i have a couple of questions. i was playing with my mayhem yesterday on asphalt and it would launch hard and spin the tires on the pavement and leave black marks. the left front axle broke where the pin holds the axle to the drive cup. the drive cup itself is what broke. and it started making a high pitched noise and acted like the clutch was slipping and then it quit moving altogether. is the axle breaking being experienced by anyone else and horizon already has me a set of clutch shoes in the mail.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/25/2005 10:14 PM

Giles300-72

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yes I have had an axle break. Mine snapped off clean at the hub. I replaced it with a Hot bodies unit because that was all that was available! The high pitched noise is the diffs. What happens is these diffs send power to the side that has the least resistance. so when that front driveshaft broke it caused the engine to spead up cause only that side was trying to pull! I don't know why it stopped going all together cause it should still move unless you fryed a bearing in the clutch bell at the same time.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/25/2005 10:15 PM

phishrfriend

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I also broke a front CVD on my RTR when I first got it.. granted it was from it cartwheeling across the parking lot after catching 15 feet of air

anyway, i bought a new one and got a spare just in case it happens again.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/26/2005 8:40 AM

ruffian

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For those of you with the RTR version. Check your diffs! I tore my sons car down for the first time this weekend. The front and rear diffs were empty.. bone dry. My neighbors RTR was also dry in the rear diff.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/26/2005 3:12 PM

moose24

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Giles or anyone else,

What diff fluids are you running with your large carb intake. I changed to the large intake yesterday and I believe I may have too much power going to the rear. I'm running 5-7-1. Of course, it sounds like I need to check the front and rear anyway. I've never had them open.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/26/2005 5:23 PM

CHAD_BUGGY

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OK after 1 week of tearing the hell out of my newly purchased rtr the only parts i have damaged was 2 of the 3 plastic parts on the whole thing.
1. on my 1st jump i managed to screw it up and landed spoiler 1st into the ground(dont ask how) so i bent one side of the spoiler mount bought the whole mount kit so now i have spares (5.99) for the kit.
2. Ran it head on full throttle into a raised portion of concrete...broke the battery tray in the reciever box...called hobby shop and they said how did you break that thing? i had no answer but i replaced it with rechargeable packs...better anyway

Chad
Sportwerks RTR

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/26/2005 5:25 PM

CHAD_BUGGY

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question tho as i am new to this whole nitro powered buggy thing...i want to check my diffs beacause of what all of u are saying about them being empty. How do i get them out/open? and what should i put in them? Im mainly backyard bashing but i weekend at tracks. Any suggestions?
Chad

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/26/2005 6:08 PM

performula

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quote:

ORIGINAL: CHAD_BUGGY

question tho as i am new to this whole nitro powered buggy thing...i want to check my diffs beacause of what all of u are saying about them being empty. How do i get them out/open? and what should i put in them? Im mainly backyard bashing but i weekend at tracks. Any suggestions?
Chad

When you opened your new box did you see any stains on the bottom of your box or oil near the diff housings?

< Message edited by performula -- 4/26/2005 6:10 PM >

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/26/2005 6:29 PM

RC_Tobias

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Choice of diff fluids is going to be a matter of personal opinion and everyone will give you a different answer. I am personally running 5-5-1, but will most likely be bumping it up to 5-7-2 in the near future. The link I pasted below is the manual for the Mayhem ARR version and on page 47 of the manual it gives you a good detailed description of how to choose the correct diff fluid based on how you'll be running it.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/Files/swk1100-manual.pdf

Also for CHAD_BUGGY, on pages 28 and 31 of that manual you'll find the parts explosions for the front and rear gearbox mounts. It should provide a good idea of how to get to the front and rear diffs. The center diff is easiest of all three to get to. There are 8 screws on the center top plate. 4 are countersunk and flush with the top of the plate. (Don't worry about removing those) The other 4 are inset down in 4 holes underneath the plate. Those are the 4 you'll need to remove to get the center diff out.

-RCT

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/26/2005 6:40 PM

Giles300-72

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RC is right. I too am running 5-7-2. It works really well. On all buggies if the diffs are run for a month or more on a regular baseis they will be dry. If it has been more than a month since any of yall have checked your diff fluids I would highly recomend it!!! You want believe the diff it makes by having fresh fluid. It isn't very hard just keep all the screws organized and have your manual ready. It is time comsuming however especially for the first timer. I would have to say it took me the better part of 4 hours non stop to change all mine the first time. Now I have it down pat to where I can do it in an hour!! Make sure you have a little pick or a tiny phillips head screwdriver handy to dig the dirt out of the bolts on the bottom of the chassie so you don't round them off.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/26/2005 7:38 PM

ruffian

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I'm running 5-7-2. My car had very few hours on it before I tore it down. There were no stains in the box and no evidence of there ever being any fluid present.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/27/2005 4:52 AM

r0iand

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Got my mayhem body all painted jsut waiting on my motor back from werks (shipping from cali to florida takes TOOOO LONG) any carbon upgrades to lighten this abby up just a tad. (plus they look great).. ill post sum up of my 1st body painted so let the critisizing begin. but until then thanx for the info

roland

< Message edited by r0iand -- 4/27/2005 4:56 AM >

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/27/2005 4:50 PM

mhood

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you wont believe all the messed up stuff i found when tearing the buggy down yesterday. the center diff was leaking so i went ahead and took it out. the pinion gear shafts had actually turned sideways in the housing. i have a pic of it if someone will tell me where i can host it. the axle i mentioned before and the rest of the internals in the center diff. i am going to check the front and rear when i get my parts and start putting it back together. i think i am going to run either 5-7-1, or 6-6-2, or 6-7-2, something like that.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/27/2005 5:53 PM

performula

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quote:

ORIGINAL: mhood

you wont believe all the messed up stuff i found when tearing the buggy down yesterday. the center diff was leaking so i went ahead and took it out. the pinion gear shafts had actually turned sideways in the housing. i have a pic of it if someone will tell me where i can host it. the axle i mentioned before and the rest of the internals in the center diff. i am going to check the front and rear when i get my parts and start putting it back together. i think i am going to run either 5-7-1, or 6-6-2, or 6-7-2, something like that.

Well, an RTR is really not "ready to run" if you inspect things (with every company recommending this) before the kit is run. With any RTR a tear down should be done at least in sections to inspect any flaws ar things overlooked - example: thread lock. I will not invest any time into this until a part is loose or breaks, but Ihaven't started racing...yet! Still an awesome kit errr RTR.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/27/2005 8:00 PM

Giles300-72

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r0iand as if you haven't noticed this thread is like none of the others on here. We don't cretisize for anything. We have all painted our first bodies and know how difficult it can be the first time. Try posting them on www.picturetrail.com. That is where all my pics are, if you want check them out at www.picturetrail.com/kruck

< Message edited by Giles300-72 -- 4/28/2005 10:50 PM >

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/28/2005 2:30 PM

mhood

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yeah i have figured that out. i have put at least a gallon through it already. i broke it in on 20% with the medium restricter. put about 10 tanks through it like that and then i changed to the large restricter with the 30% fuel in it. thats when the breakage began.

quote:

ORIGINAL: performula

quote:

ORIGINAL: mhood

you wont believe all the messed up stuff i found when tearing the buggy down yesterday. the center diff was leaking so i went ahead and took it out. the pinion gear shafts had actually turned sideways in the housing. i have a pic of it if someone will tell me where i can host it. the axle i mentioned before and the rest of the internals in the center diff. i am going to check the front and rear when i get my parts and start putting it back together. i think i am going to run either 5-7-1, or 6-6-2, or 6-7-2, something like that.

Well, an RTR is really not "ready to run" if you inspect things (with every company recommending this) before the kit is run. With any RTR a tear down should be done at least in sections to inspect any flaws ar things overlooked - example: thread lock. I will not invest any time into this until a part is loose or breaks, but Ihaven't started racing...yet! Still an awesome kit errr RTR.

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/29/2005 6:19 PM

moose24

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My latest paintjob for the Mayhem . I'm going to add a yellow wing to match.

< Message edited by moose24 -- 4/29/2005 6:20 PM >

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RE: Official Mayhem Thread - 4/29/2005 7:00 PM

Giles300-72

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Looks awsome moose! That thing looks like you never drive it! lol

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