dyerstown

Is the kind of polyurethane that cleans up with water a fuel proof coating? Can I coat my firewall, etc. with brush on or spray cans of Minwax type polyurethane? Thanks

majortom-RCU

My Feedback: (40)

I have Nelson Hobby Specialties water reducible polyurethane paint (brushed on) on my test stand, which gets slobbered in fuel, and it has stood up well more than a year. This was the recommendation of the stand mfr. I looked at the Minwax offerings, and the only water miscible product of theirs I could find was labelled "not for exterior use" so I shied away from it. Their polyurethane spar varnish, which is ok for external use, was not so cheap, so I spent a little extra for something made for rc use.

dant-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

I started using PolyU to fuelproof firewalls, tank areas, etc four years ago. Used MinWax. It seemed to hold up OK but if really soaked (like, fuel tank leaks) it would eventually soften some with 10% nitro. Never actually got to the wood. I tried to use the MinWax to apply fiberglass and, while it worked, I found (as have others) that it tends to be "soft". Holds paint well but tends to "dent" easier than Epoxy.

Two years ago I switched to Flecto's Diamond wood finish for floors. It is a water based poly-u and is harder than an old miners boot! This stuff works great. I have not had it soften using 15% nitro and I even soaked some covered wood in the fuel. It also glasses nicely and, in my opinion, is as hard as epoxy and takes paint easily. I painted a test piece of balsa white, brushed on one coat of Diamond poly-u and waited to see if it would yellow. It has not and I left it out for two weeks in the Oklahoma summer.

The downside is that it is currently selling for around $38-42 a gallon (Lowe's, etc). I know it is available in quarts but I have not seen them at my local Lowe's. I got a gallon from a person "in the trade" for $28.00 - two years ago.

Just my .02 from my experience.

As the lawyers are prone to say "... your results may vary ..."

Dan

Tommy Meisel

I've tested Carver-Tripp's Super Poly with 15 % glow fuel with no adverse reaction. This is a water base polyurethane that is intended for hardwood floors and cabinet tops. It flows out very well, adds little weight, and is perfectly clear. It will go over almost anything, I tested it over butyrate dope and no problems whatsoever. It stays flexible so it works well on fabric surfaces.

This is NOT Carver-Tripp's regular water base poly, it is Super Poly. Is it tough? I have it on my oak foyer and steps with great results.

Cost aoout $10 a quart.

Mode1

My Feedback: (10)

I use water based poly-u on all my plastic covered models. I double coat all edges of decals, numbers, pinstripes, covering edges and what ever else strikes my fancy. I use a saber brush #00 from an auto paint supply store but any good small brush will do. I have used several brands of Poly including a "cheapo" from K-mart. All have worked great with zero problems. I use PowerMaster YS 20/20 fuel (20%nitro). After a the clear is dry I put a double coat of auto paste wax on everything. The Poly-U I have used is thin but a quart will go a long way. Mine goes on kind of milky but dries clear. Bob

Tex Pilot

A friend and scratch builder of 30 plus years just taught me to cover using water based polyurethane. We use Ace brand and have had zero problems whatsoever. Bill builds some awesome sea planes and flys at lake Texoma in south central Oklahoma. The water is somewhat salty....... never have a problem. Hope this helps. Tex

FrancisPerson

Dan Taylor is right about the Flecto Varithane water based finish. I have no glow but it sure stands up to diesel!