Covering A Topflite 'JUG' with Flite Metal step by step
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (44)
Covering A Topflite 'JUG' with Flite Metal step by step
I will post here, pictures of my 1/5 scale Topflite P-47 during the "process,"of covering it panel per panel exclusively with an increasingly popular true aluminum product. I have found patience,techniques and learned skills are the order of the day. This will document my first "all Flite Metal" covered War bird and certainly not the last. I know WE have a lot of techniques to create that natural aluminum skin..In the last several years I have found (one) answer to the process pictures and text will follow.
#2
Banned
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 7,744
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
RE: Covering A Topflite 'JUG' with Flite Metal step by step
Best of luck with it Richard, gee I'm glad I opted to go with the camo scheme of "Hairless Joe"
cheers
Peter
cheers
Peter
#3
My Feedback: (2)
RE: Covering A Topflite 'JUG' with Flite Metal step by step
Ram,
You got way more patience than I do. Its looking real nice and I'll be watching this one. Mine is in its early stages and will be done up in the 56th fighter group camo scheme. Dont have a specific plane yet, leaning towards Gabreski's. I know, I know, been done to death. But I like it. And no one in the Austin area has done one that I can remember.
Edwin
You got way more patience than I do. Its looking real nice and I'll be watching this one. Mine is in its early stages and will be done up in the 56th fighter group camo scheme. Dont have a specific plane yet, leaning towards Gabreski's. I know, I know, been done to death. But I like it. And no one in the Austin area has done one that I can remember.
Edwin
#4
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Wallingford,
CT
Posts: 992
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Covering A Topflite 'JUG' with Flite Metal step by step
Richard have you seen our SEAMLESS PLATING yet?
Heres more info
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Meta...1870990/tm.htm
Heres more info
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Meta...1870990/tm.htm
#10
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (44)
RE: Covering A Topflite 'JUG' with Flite Metal step by step
Here the fairing has been trimmed,burnished and ready for the next fairing panel to be added. You work from the rear forward and we want an "overlapped fairing so the next step using a bit of glazing compound I feather the joint before working forward . Any excess Dynatron spot putty is easily removed with a bit of *acetone.
#12
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (44)
RE: Covering A Topflite 'JUG' with Flite Metal step by step
Welllllll here they are so lets wait a few and then "feather" the leading edge of this wing fairing panel and proceed to the next ..REMEMBER like the full scale 47 we want to achieve the look of an overlapped panel.
#15
#16
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (44)
RE: Covering A Topflite 'JUG' with Flite Metal step by step
ORIGINAL: Peter_OZ
good work Richard, but like the other post says - waaay too much patience!! Give me camo!
cheers
Peter Hi Peter,
It is not question of way too much work, Its how much you want it.. With the "subject P-47," flown by Cap./Col. Robert S. Johnson,it starts with inspiration...I read his book researched his plane and decided to duplicate /replicate the finish. (he flew primarily four and the last was in natural Aluminum----suggest you read his book:"Thunderbolt!!' Martin Cadin and Robert S. Johnson. ALL military are hero's in sort;over the course of a year I read every Ballintin W.W.II pilots book I could find and "Thunderbolt," was one of them.
good work Richard, but like the other post says - waaay too much patience!! Give me camo!
cheers
Peter Hi Peter,
It is not question of way too much work, Its how much you want it.. With the "subject P-47," flown by Cap./Col. Robert S. Johnson,it starts with inspiration...I read his book researched his plane and decided to duplicate /replicate the finish. (he flew primarily four and the last was in natural Aluminum----suggest you read his book:"Thunderbolt!!' Martin Cadin and Robert S. Johnson. ALL military are hero's in sort;over the course of a year I read every Ballintin W.W.II pilots book I could find and "Thunderbolt," was one of them.
#19
Senior Member
My Feedback: (45)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Hebron,
KY
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Covering A Topflite 'JUG' with Flite Metal step by step
Some inspiration for you. This is FM as well. The directional scuffing with a ScotchBright pad of each individual panel really makes the results real. Takes off the sheen and seperates the panels visually. Sorry about all the dust!
#23
Senior Member
My Feedback: (45)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Hebron,
KY
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Covering A Topflite 'JUG' with Flite Metal step by step
The rivet detail was easy yet time consuming. After you get all of the panel shapes in the right spot and scuff all the panels (thats the harder dirty part) you look closely at your reference for type of rivets (size, type). I found a metal mechanical pencil with the lead retracted made a perfect tool for small round rivets. I also used a series of brass tubes in various sizes for different types/sizes of rivets. I would place a strip of masking tape along the intended rivet line. The tape had markings for the spacing of the rivets, then I would simply apply light presses with the tube and make a dent. If the rivet spacing did not match the panel, you need to improvise the spacing. Ta Da...a rivets! If you mess one up or make it to deep, you can simply burnish it out. The post burnishing is good for softening the impressions and making a decent flush rivet as well. The softness is a good thing for this, yet a bad thing for hanger rash. It can be dented and scratched fairly easy. The repair is a simple re burnishing. Always use a slip sheet when burnishing.
The ScotchBrite process you do before the rivets, but only after all the FM is ALL down. It makes a big mess like graphite and it will hinder the adhesion if it gets under your FM. Keep your engine clear of the metal dust as well!. Tape off the intended panel and lightly brush a grain in one direction. Remove the tape and do the next panel, changing direction for optimal reflection/differentiation of the panels as the light hits them.
Then its on to painting and weathering with stains and worn paint (showing the FM underneath). I still need to do this part and a little goes a long way, so do not over do it.
The ScotchBrite process you do before the rivets, but only after all the FM is ALL down. It makes a big mess like graphite and it will hinder the adhesion if it gets under your FM. Keep your engine clear of the metal dust as well!. Tape off the intended panel and lightly brush a grain in one direction. Remove the tape and do the next panel, changing direction for optimal reflection/differentiation of the panels as the light hits them.
Then its on to painting and weathering with stains and worn paint (showing the FM underneath). I still need to do this part and a little goes a long way, so do not over do it.